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BOSTON UNIVERSITY

College of Liberal Arts
Library

GRADUATE SCHOOL
AFRICAN STUDIES

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FROM THE CONGO TO THE ZAMBESI

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SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE

LONDON

PORTEAIT OF MAJOR VON WISSMANN

MY SECOND JOURNEY

THROUGH

EQUATORIAL AFRICA

from f?e Congo to t^e ?atn6e6t

IN THE YEARS 1886 AND 1887
BY

HERMANN VON WISSMANN

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN BY

MINNA J. A. BERGMANN

WITH A MAP BY F. S. WELLER AND 92 ILLUSTRATIONS AFTER
DRAWINGS BY R. HELLGREIVE AND KLEIN-CHEVALIER

IT 0 n b 0 ir

CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY

1891

(r <S p- cL-' J

3 SI

PEEFACE

In accordance with my habit since the year 1880, I am
now visiting Germany onl}^ that I may recover from
the fatigues of my work in Africa, and in order to
gather new strength for further exploration of the Dark
Continent.

In spite of my having on account of ilhiess as well
as of business very little spare time during my four
months' stay at home, I resolved to write down as a
simple reproduction of m}'' diaries the most noteworthy
facts of my second journey through Africa. We can
never know whether we may return from those un-
civilised regions ; and for this Reason, and since my last
work — the suppression of the East African rebellion —
suggests my publishing further accounts at a later
period, I have written the following pages, which I
beg the reader to accept as a simple narrative of my
experiences and observations.

vi THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

The present publication of my diaries is partly owing
to the fact that the terrors incidental to the slave-hunt
and to the transport of the unfortunate human chattels
are illustrated in the following pages, and I can only
hope that I may be enabled to excite the reader's
interest in, and sympathy for, those nations which still
groan under the yoke of barbarism, and which certainly
have a right to our help and protection.

H. YON WISSMANN.

Latjterberg : October 30, 1800.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

FROM THE COAST TO THE BASHILANGE COUNTRY

Eeturn to Afiica — My task there — My encountering Kund and
Tappenbeck — Why I chose the name of ' Cassai ' — Unfavourable
beginnmg — Buffalo hunt — A snake-bite — To the mouth of the
Cassai — Elephants — Up the Cassai — Waste of waters — Venerable
tombs — Abundance of game — Effect of a whistle — Tropical luxu-
riancy — ^ Mount Pogge — Kund's crossing the Cassai — Nine
affluents — Tipsy natives — Picturesque canoe expedition — The
natives' way of life — On the Sankurru — A landslip — Still life of
the desert — How I met Dr. Wolf .....

CHAPTER II

DR. LUDWIG wolf's EXPLORATION OF THE SANKURRU —
RETURN OF THE BASHILANGE TO THEIR NATIVE COUNTRY

Foinidation of Luebo station — Luluaburg — Exploration of the
Sankurru — The condition of the ' En Avant ' — Savage steersmen
— Effect of a glaring coloiu' — Brass and copper, African gold — In-
timidation of some Bassange for their impudence — ' The Sankurru
is good, the Lubilash wicked ' — Zappu Zapp — Caution ! On the
Lubi — The ' En Avant ' in danger — A new river — Lomami ? —
Average — Ethnography — At the station . . . .37

viii THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

CHAPTER III

DISCOVEKING WISSMANN FALL AND WORK AT THE STATION

I'AHK

Progress of Liiebo station — Patrol on the Muieau — Encountering
faithful Bugslag — Luluaburg, a centre of civilisation — Plantations
— The breeding of cattle — Meteorological observations — With
Kalamba — Saturnino de jMachado — Hostile Chipulumba — Punish-
ment of some of our soldiers — Up the Cassai with "Wolf — An un-
inhabited wilderness — Tormenting bees — Bars in the river —
Wissmann Fall — Wild boars — Falling trees — Missed the ' Stanley '
— At the station — Separation from Wolf — Punishment of a chief
— Balundu — Ambassadors — Settling political difficulties at Lu-
buku — Distribution of the Star-Flag — My influence over the
Bashilange — Kalamba's visit — Spectacle snake . . .58

CHAPTER IV

EXPEDITION TO THE UPPER' RIVER BASIN OF THE
SANKURRU — LUBILASH

Collecting the escort for the journey — A good shot — A terrier trying
to attack a hippopotamus — Plundering by my men — ^Eolian bells
— The savage Balungu — Put on the wrong track — The Kanjoka —
Dancing women — Boundary of the pure Baluba — Threats — Dense
population — On the Bushi Maji — Insolence of the natives — -W^ar
— Effect of the report of a gun — Treacherous Baluba — Falsehoods
of the Balungu — Fruitless negotiations — W^arlike expedition to
punish our insolent enemies — A hundred prisoners and a large
booty — Want of ammunition — My resolve to return — The inhospi-
table Baluba country — A dangerous retreat — Fair — Bad state of
health — At Luluaburg — Conflagration — Le Marinel's dangerous
illness . . . . . . . .94

CHAPTER V

REGULATION OF POLITICAL AFFAIRS AT LUBUKU DEPARTURE

FOR THE NORTH-EAST THE JOURNEY TO THE SANKURRU

Meeting of the chiefs of Lubuku — Heavy hail-storm — My fruitless
search for Germano — Dr. Sommers — Germane at last — Depar-
ture for our long journey to the North-East — Camp building —
Robberies and skirmish — Prairies — Villages set on fire — Pacidc

CONTENTS ix

PAGK

welcome — Slave trade of the Bihe people — Primaeval forests —
Inhospitable savages — On the Lnbi— Simao's gallant swimming
expedition — Punishment of the rapacious Ngongo — A thief
punished by an arrow-shot — On the Sankurrii . . . 131

CHAPTER VI

PRIMAEVAL FOREST— HOME OF THE DWARFS — DEPOPULATED
COUNTRIES

The Lussambo — Cheating— Beautiful river scenery — First news of
the Arabs — Primseval forest — Batetela — Batua, the so-called
Dwarfs — Negotiations with the Batua — Nothing but primaeval
forest — Christmas in the dark — With the Bena Mona — Murder
with poisoned arrows — Critical moment — War— Building of a
bridge — Lukalla — Hunger — Missed an anaconda — Bad reports
about the countries before us — The ravaging slave-hunters — The
exterminating Arab — Duties of the civilised world in protection
of the defenceless Africans — Extermination of a great nation —
With Lupungu and Mona Kakesa — Sale of amnnuiition — The
large town of the Peshi desolated ..... 156

CHAPTER VII

THE ARABS FAMINE AND ILLNESS

Camp of a troop of Tibbu Tibb's Zanzibaris — Said, the leader of
the warlike expedition — Said aiming at prisoners in his pistol
practice — Cannibalism in the camp of the Arabs— Sad condition of
my caravan— A man rising from the dead — Many sick people —
On the Lomami — The caravan well-nigh exhausted — The Arabs'
form of government — Hungry people eating poisonous fruits —
Inundations — Everything gloomy — Amputations — Some people
missing— Bridge formed of brushwood — Small-i)0x — The weakest
part of the army left behind — Losses — Eeports about hostilities
between the Arabs and the Congo State — Bad prospects — At
Nyangwe — Hidden threats — Tibbu Tibb's son subjecting me to
an examination — Suspicion against me — Famba's aid — Mj'
Bashilange sent home uninjured — I remain in the Arabs' power
— Separation from Le Marinel and my caravan . . . 19G

TH BOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

CHAPTER VIII

AM OBLIGED TO TKAVEL EASTWARD — JOURNEY TO THE
TANGANYIKA

I'AGK

Famba's disclosures — Stores of ivory — In the lion's den — ' White
men are cowards ' — Thwarting of my plans — The murderer of a
German — The past and present recollections of an old chief — I
feel very weak — The places of encampment poisoned by the
corpses of slaves — Sad reflections — Apathy of my people — Horrors
of the traffic in slaves^On the Tanganyika . . . 230

CHAPTER IX

TO THE NYASSA

Warning against going to the coast — At Ujiji — My going to the south
- — My exhausted Baluba left with the missionaries — The lake
and its discharge — Night journeys — Storm — Mpala — Correct pro-
ceeding of the missions— Galula's death — Leopards — Baboons —
Progress by land — Water banks — Flight of some carriers — Super-
stition— Extortions — Wawemba murderers — Scotch mission — Mr.
Bain on Ethnology — On the Nyassa — Clouds of insects . . 249

CHAPTER X

TO THE COAST

The Nyassa — The banks abound in game — The Ai-abs on the lake
— Livingstonia — Shire — Mandala and Blantyre — I am ill — The
negroes' deficiency in skill — The journey on the Shire resumed
— Crocodiles and hippopotami — Struggle with a huge heron —
Bugslag's true companionship — Portuguese outpost — The Zambesi
— Mrs. Livingstone's grave — On the Quaqiia — Quilimane — Con-
clusion ........ 282

APPENDIX I

Letter of Le Marinel on the Return of the Bashilange to

THEIR Country ....... 301

APPENDIX II
Thk Bashilange Country ...... 306

INDEX . . . . . . . . .319

ILLUSTRATIONS

FULL-PAGE

PORTRAIT OF MAJOR VON WISSMANN

STILL LIFE OF THE CASSAI ....

EFFECT OF THE STEAM-WHISTLE OF THE ' PEACE '

WISSMANN POOL ......

STAFF-PHYSICIAN DR. LUDWIG WOLF

A RACE WITH THE ' EN AVANT ' .

wolf's meeting WITH ZAPPU ZAPP

ARTICLES MANUFACTURED BY THE LUSSAMBO

A ' MOIIO ' AT KALAMBA'S ....

WISSMANN FALL ......

RECEPTION BY THE KANJOKA LADIES .

DISTURBANCE ON THE BUSHI MAJI

A DANCING KASHAMA .....

OUR RECEPTION BY THE BAQUA SEKELAI
MARCH THROUGH THE PRIMEVAL FOREST

ETHNOLOGICAL ARTICLES : — IDOL OF THE BALUBA FROM THE
LUALABA — BELT OF THE BENECKI — PLUMES OF THE
BASSONGO - MINO — PIPE AND TOBACCO OF THE BENA
RIAMBA — CALABASHES ....

AT KAFUNGOI ......

THE ARABS AMONG THE BENECKI

Frontispiece
To face ^j. 14
20
22
38
42
4G
50
70
78
106
114
12(3
114
162

172

182
186

Xll

THROUGH EQUATOEIAL AFRICA

MONA LUPUNGU BRINGS A PRESENT OF SLAVES

SAID'S PISTOL PRACTICE

CROSSING THE CONGO-LUALABA

TRANSPORT OF SLAVES

FEEDING SLAVES ....

NEAR MTOA, ON THE TANGANYIKA

A STIFF BREEZE . . .

STORMY NIGHT-QUARTERS

LEOPARDS ON THE TANGANYIKA

THE MAWEMBA ELECTING A CHIEF

BANKS OF THE NYASSA

BANKS OF THE SHIRK

THE SEVENTY-FIFTH CROCODILE

TYPES OF THE BASHILANGE.

To face p. 188
202
222
244
246
248
256
258
262
276
284
288
298
312

ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT

BANANA, AT THE MOUTH OF THE CONGO . . . .1

A BUFFALO HUNT . . • . . . . . 9

ELEPHANTS IN THE CONGO . . . . . .11

TOMBS OF THE WABUMA CHIEFS . . . . . . ]G

A JOURNEY ON A HIPPOPOTAMUS . . . . .18

MOUNT POGGE . . . • . • . . 28

KUND AND TAPPENBECK'S PLACE OF ENCAMPMENT ON THE CA^SAI . 25

MY MEETING WITH DR. "WOLF . . . . . . 35

LUBBO STATION . . . . . . . .37

ON THE LUBI . . . . . . . . 48

THE LUKENJA-LOMAMI . . . . . . .50

HUTS OF THE BENA-YEHKA . . . . . . . 53

BETWEEN LUEBO AND LULUABURG . . • . .58

ILL USTBA TIONS xiii .

PAGE
LULUABURG . . . . . . . . . 63

CHIRILU FALL . . . . . . . * 72

THE CROSS IN THE CASSAI . • . . . . . 76

A WELCOME MEAL . . . . . . .81

A DISAGREEABLE SURPRISE . . . . . . . 92

CAPTAIN DE MACAR . . . . . . ,95

LULUMBA FALL . . . . . . . , 96

A HEROIC TERRIER . . • . . . .98

VILLAGE OF THE BENA WITANDA . . . . . . 100

.EOLIAN HARPS ........ 102

FARMS OF THE KALOSH . . . . . . . 108

A KALOSH ........ 110

RETURN FROM THE FIGHT . . . . . . . 118

JUNGLES OF PANDANUS ....... 128

BETWEEN LULUA AND MOANSANGOMMA . . . . . 132

CROSSING THE LUBUDI ....... 140

GRASS SAVANNAH . . . . . . . . 141

A SMELTING FURNACE OF THE BENA LUKOBA . .. . . 143

SIMAO, THE GALLANT SWIMMER . . . . . . 152

CROSSING THE LUKALLA ....... 157

VALLEY OF THE SANKUKRU . , . . . , . 100

ETHNOLOGICAL ARTICLES : HAMPER, DRUM, AND SHIELD OF THE BAS-

SONGE — HATCHETS AND SPEARS OF THE BALUBA . " . . 161

WITH BUGSLAG AND THE DWARFS ..... 166

IN THE VALLEY OF THE LUKASbl . . . . . . 194

ENTRANCE INTO SAID'S CAMP ...... 197

INTERIOR OF SAID'S CAMP . . . . . . . 199

PALMS ON THE LOMAMI ....... 200

ELEPHANT ON THE KALUI . . . . . . . 211

BUILDING A BRIDGE ....... 215

LIEUTENANT LE MARINEL . . . • . . . 228

xiv THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

I'AOK
JUMA BIN SALIM'S IVORY . . . . . . . 231

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF KASSONGO ...... 234

PASSING THE ILINDI . . . . . . . 237

ON THE TANGANYIKA ....... 249

CAMP ON THE LUKUGA . . . . . . . 257

ERIGHTENED BABOONS ....... 263

BETWEEN TANGANYIKA AND NYASSA . . . . . . 266

WATCH-TOWER NEAR BISSISSI ...... 267

OUR PARTY ......... 282

STRUGGLE WITH A GIGANTIC HERON . . . . . 294

* OUT OF THE WATER CREPT A LARGE CROCODILE ' . . . 296

HARBOUR OF QUILIMANE . . . ...

A BASHILANGE CONCERT
BASHILAMBOA

299

307
309

MAP

WISSMANN's three EXPEDITIONS TO EQUATORIAL AFRICA,

1880-1887 ...... To face p. 1

MAP OF WISSMANN'S THREE EXPEDITIONS IN EQUATORIAL AFRICA, 1880-1887.

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BAXANA, AT THE MOUTH OF THE COXGO

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

CHAPTEE I

FEOM THE COAST TO THE BASHILANGE COUNTEY

Keturn to Africa — My task there — My eneoimtering Kiind and Tappen-
beck — ^^^.ly I chose the name of ' Cassai ' — Unfavourable beginning —
Buffalo hunt — A snake-bite — To the mouth of the Cassai — Elephants
— Up the Cassai — Waste of waters— Venerable tombs — Abmidance of
game — Effect of a whistle — Tropical luxuriancy — Mount Pogge —
Kund's crossing the Cassai — Nine affluents — Tipsy natives — Pictu-
resque canoe expedition — The natives' way of life — On the Sankm'ru—
A landslip — Still life of the desert — How I met Dr. Wolf.

The fatigues I had undergone during the time of the
travels described in my work ' Im Innern. Afrikas ' had
wasted my energy to such an extent that I was
obhged, in September 1885, to leave Africa in order
to gain new strength in a more congenial climate.

^%^u

2 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

After a nine weeks' sojourn in Madeira, perhaps chiefly
owing to my being dosed with arsenic, I feh- so much
better that I began to think of resuming my work.
Through the medium of H.E.H. the Crown Prince of
Germany, I had two years previously received a com-
mission from the King of the Belgians, to whom I was
under an obligation of another year's service. But, as
I was desirous of turning to account my experiences
in the newly established German colonies, I applied to
his Eoyal Highness, inquiring whether in any of the
German possessions my services might be of value ; in
which case I begged his Eoyal Highness, by his gracious
intercession, to get me released from further obligations.
I was told in reply that, for the present, there would be
no work for me in our possessions, and that the King of
the Belgians had expressed a special desire that I should
return to Africa once more, which desire his Majesty
then communicated to me himself. I was given my
choice, either to undertake the entire administration
of the Inner Congo State, from Stanley Pool upward,
or to carry on my work as before, in which latter case
I received the following directions.

In taking advantage of the favourable state of
political affairs, I was to open the Baluba country to
any further undertakings south of the Congo State,
and to make the native tribes to the south, the north-
east, and eventually to the eastern boundary of the
Congo State, acquainted and satisfied with their new
political situation.

I was to investigate and, if possible, to counteract
the proceedings of the slave-hunters, and report about

BETUBN TO AFRICA 3

what I tliougiit of the countries south-east of the Congo
State with respect to their cuUivation. This was all
the more important as I was the only European who
had traversed the Congo State by land. It is evident
that on such journeys it is far easier to form an estimate
■of a country than in travelling by water, as one is then
able only to judge of the fertile districts on the river-
side, besides having naturally much less intercourse
with the natives than when one travels in the interior.

In undertaking the administration of the Inner
Congo State, I should have been compelled to sub-
ordinate myself to the Governor-General of the State.
For these reasons I decided upon further investigations
•of the Inner Congo State, as this would leave me entirely
independent and solely responsible.

As mentioned at the end of my work ' Im Innern
Afrikas,' I had, when on account of illness obliged to
quit the Congo, resigned the command of my expedition
to Staff Physician Dr. Ludwig Wolf. Of my former at-
tendants, he was joined only by the shipwright Bugslag
and the gunsmith Schneider ; Lieutenant von Francois
had left the expedition before, and the ' Forstreferendar '
MliUer had returned to Europe on sick leave.

I left Madeira on January 8, 1886, and towards the
end of the month reached Banana, at the mouth of the
Congo, just at the time when the former Administrator-
General, Sir Francis de Winton, resigned the govern-
ment of the Congo State to his successor, Mr. Jansen, a
Belgian. From the latter — who had taken the Baluba
who had conducted me down to the Congo, while ex-
ploring the Cassai, back to their country — I learned that

B 2

4 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

the transport on the river steamer had been accom-
pUshed without mishap, and that Wolf had begun to
carry out my instructions, to which I shall refer later on.

After a short delay at Banana, Boma, and Yivy, I
started for Stanley Pool. The beginning of the journey
was by no means promising. The march over rugged
mountains between Matadi and Pallaballa during the
hottest season brought on a rather serious cough, that
obliged me to continue my journey in a hammock. On
the first or second day's march I met my German friends,
Kund and Tappenbeck, homeward bound. The former
was still suffering from the wound he had received
on the Cassai, not far from the place where a year ago
I had to encounter a severe struggle with the treache-
rous Bassongo-Mino when investigating the said river.

The report of both these gentlemen, especially with
regard to their observations of the southern affluents of
the Cassai, and the place where they had crossed the
river, hardly agreed with my recollections, which may
partly be ascribed to the circumstance that the different
tribes know the watercourses by different names, partly
to the fact that Lieutenant Kund's instruments of obser-
vation had suffered so much during the transport as to
disable him from ascertaining astronomically where he
crossed the Cassai.

Kund called the Cassai ' Sankurru,' as the natives
frive it this name at the place where he crossed it. I
take this opportunity to mention that I consider it
both unjustifiable and unreasonable that several carto-
graphers, from the evidence of these officers, though
they had crossed the river only in one place, have given

WHY I CHOSE THE NAME OF ' CASSAI ' 5

this river tlie name of ' Sankurru,' wliilst I, who have
explored it in its full length, have called it ' Cassai.'
Nor have I chosen this name without reason. This
largest tributary of the Congo, a river to whose volume
of water not one European river can possibly be com-
pared, has, in its whole course, a succession of different
names. Livingstone, in its upper course, calls it ' Cas-
sabi ' and ' Loka ; ' farther on, in its middle course, it
is called ' Cassai,' which name it retains through its
longest stretch. After this the names vary continually :
first it is called ' Nsaire,' 'Nsadi,' ' Nshale,' 'Loko,'
' Nsali-Monene ; ' then, after receiving the Sankurru, its
largest tributary — which, however, has not half the
volume of water the Cassai has — it is called ' Sankurru,'
' ShankoUe,' afterwards ' Shari,' ' Nsari,' ' Nshale-Mele,'
and ' Qua.'

Later measuring proved that I had always kept in
sight that part of the river system that had the greatest
mass of water, which in sailing down a river is quite a
chance. As for the name of this immense water-artery,
it could only either be ' Cassai ' or ' Nsaire ; ' but, the
Congo itself being repeatedly called ' Nsaire ' by the
tribes living near its lower course, and this name also
being adopted by the Portuguese, I decided upon that
■of ' Cassai,' and must, therefore, request the carto-
graphers to put it in their maps.

My two brother-officers, after having given me all
those articles they could possibly do without, since
they would soon reach civilised parts, left us with their
best wishes. And now, while the incidents of this leave-
iaking are still vividly present to my mind, one of them

6 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

is no longer among the living. Tappenbeck, after inde-
fatigable toil, at last succumbed to the tropical climate ;
whilst the other is only now recovering from a tedious
illness, the consequence of his fatiguing African work.

My constitution, usually proof against any tropical
changes, seemed to disappoint me this time. My cough
continued, and the heat, intense even for those parts,,
and combined with heavy rains, brought on a good
deal of fever.

On February 231 arrived at Leopoldville, on Stanley
Pool. I had ordered the ' Peace,' belonging to the
English mission, and the only steamer then at liberty,
to be detained for a few days, and then made the
following arrangement with Mr. Grenfell, who was-
most obliging in meeting my wishes.

The ' Peace ' immediately started for the Equator
Station, and thence returned to Quamouth, at the mouth
of the Cassai, where I was eventually to go in a rowing
barge. Then she was to pick me up and take me up
the rivers Cassai and Lulua, into the Baluba country.
As I wanted the Germans of my expedition who were
staying there to go with me, I requested the Adminis-
tration of the Congo State to send me some of their

officers to take charge of the stations of Luluaburg and
Luebo ; at the same time they were to bring such pro-
visions as the ' Peace ' was not large enough to take in.
Besides Lieutenant Bateman, who was in attendance
on Dr. Wolf, Captain de Macar and Lieutenant Le
Marinel were placed at my disposal.

From my substitute in the Baluba country we
learned, meanwhile, that he had formed a station below

A BUFFALO HUNT 7

the rapids of the Luhia, on the mouth of the Luebo,
which he had given into the charge of Lieutenant
Bateman, an Enghshman of the Congo State, while my
faithful Bugslag was head of Luluaburg. Wolf him-
self decided upon taking the steamer ' En Avant,' which
had been assigned to him for the investigation of the
Sankurru.

At Leopoldville we passed the time in preparations
for the journey and in hunting expeditions, with the
product of which — a few hippopotami — I j)repared
several days of feasting for the black garrison.

This reminds me of a bufllilo hunt, which I take the
opportunity of mentioning as an obvious proof that
rules for hunting African game should be given only
with caution.

Towards evening I posted myself on the largest
island in the middle of Stanley Pool, a spot that, on
account of its many puddles, is favourable for, and
often frequented by, the buffalo. Shortly before sun-
set a clumsy old buffalo bull {Bos euryceros) came tramp-
ing out of the thicket into the clearing where I had
posted myself behind an ant-hill. This buffalo was
remarkable for its colour. It was of a brownish black,
whilst the back and hind legs were speckled white. On
inquiring I was told by a native that bulls were often
speckled like that, while the females were invariably
ruddy-coloured and considerably smaller. The bull was
enormously fat and short-legged, and had evidently
strayed from his herd. He seemed to be following the
scent of a herd, and approached me to within about
sixty metres, when, apparently scenting me, he stopped

8 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

short. Being still very weak, I put my heavy rifle on
the shoulder of one of my negroes and aimed at the
low-bent brow of the animal. In consequence of an
involuntary movement of my attendant I missed my aim,
and the buffalo galloped past me towards the right, I
had meanwhile seized my small double-barrelled gun
(calibre 500) and aimed at the animal's shoulder-blade.
He jumped up high, but kept running in the same direc-
tion, wdien my second barrel laid him low. When my
attendants noticed that the buffalo tried in vain to get
up, they rushed upon him with knives to stab him,
notwithstanding my shouts of warning, ^o sooner
were they within a short distance of the bull than he
managed to get up again, and instead of rushing upon
his assailants he disappeared in the thicket.

I now stopped my attendants and encamped for the
night, in order to hit off the scent again next morning,
it having already grown quite dark. At daybreak we
traced the wounded animal, who had evidently lain
down at intervals of about 100 metres. He seemed to
have reached the island and tried to swim to the oppo-
site bank. As we could not find any further trace of
him, we conjectured that his strength had given way
while swimming, and that he had floated down the
river. I had certainly very rarely found that a wounded
buffalo-bull, and especially a single one, abstained from
attacking his assailant when face to face with him.

Before leaving Leopoldville for Madeira I met with
a strange accident, which I must not neglect to men-
tion. One evening I had fallen asleep in a travelling
chair with a blanket across my knees ; I must have

A SNAKE-BITE

stirred in ray sleep, as 1 was
awakened by a painful sting
in my hand, just in time to see
a snake, that had likewise taken
up its night-quarters in my
blanket, glide from my knee

A BUFFALO HUNT

to the ground and disappear in a hole. My hand began
to bleed in the two places where the snake had inserted
its fangs, and, as I knew this species to be venomous,

10 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

I bound the joints of my fingers, my hand, and elbow
with a handkerchief before I sent for the doctor, who
cut out the bite and cauterised the wound with hyper-
manganesiate of potassa. Chiefly owing to my having
bound the joints at once, I did not notice any bad
effects from the venom. This case is especially worthy
of notice because of the singular boldness of the snake,
for it is a fact that, as a rule, a venomous snake avoids
going near human beings, and only bites when touched,
especially while it is asleep and when it feels obliged
to defend itself. I have cured a number of snake-bites
myself, and know of only one case that ended fatally
— one in ^^'hich the wound was not bound, and where
half an hour ela]3sed before help could be procured.
For snake districts I greatly recommend little glass tubes
filled with sal-ammoniac, hermetically sealed at either
end. One end of the tube has to l)e broken and pushed
into the wound, and after doing this the patient should
also be dosed with from eight to ten drops of the same
liquid in a glass of water. Strong doses of alcohol,
even to intoxication, are also an excellent remedy
against the effects of a snake-bite.

On March 9 I left Leopoldville in a small boat that
had arrived meanwhile to take me to the mouth of the
Cassai, where I was to await the ' Peace.' I was joined
by a Mr. Greshoff, of a Dutch firm that was about to
establish a factor}^ on the Luebo, and by the then head
of Leopoldville station, Herr von Nimptsch, a former
Prussian officer. The journey was a miserable one, the
boat being no match for the current of the Congo. It
was small and bare of everv comfort ; and we suffered

AT THE MOUTH OF THE CASSAI

much from the weather, the rainy season having set in
with full force, and the boat affording no shelter from
rain or sun.

The only pleasant break was the appearance of a
herd of elephants on the northern bank, that abounds
in game. The attempt to bag one or two was, as usual,
thwarted by the negroes, who, being much more liglit-

ELEPHANTS IX THE CONGO

footed than the Europeans, approach the game more
quickly and less cautiously.

Arrived at Quamouth, at the mouth of the Cassai,
we learned that the ' Peace ' was not due for a week,,
and we therefore decided to go upon a hunting ex-
pedition to a district on the Upper Congo, near the
mouth of the Lefini, where game is plentiful. The first

12 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

moonliglit niglit a herd of elephants was seen wading
through the stream above the camp. The huge beasts
felt so secure that they had given themselves up to the
•enjoyment of bathing to their hearts' content. They
were pla3'fully racing through the shallow water,
chasing each other in their delight, uttering shrieks
such as I had never heard before. I crept to the edge
of the wood near the bank, but was stopped by a lagoon
which emptied itself there. I then rowed up the river
in a canoe, making a large curve round the animals ;
and afterwards drifting up to them, I kept my gun
ready to fire. The elephants marked their sense of
my nearness by a suspicious snorting, whilst one of
them cautiously drove the whole herd out of the water
into a thicket. Now the gigantic beasts broke away
towards the primseval forest close up to the camp-fires,
when, frightened by the glare of the latter, they dis-
appeared into the impenetrable thicket, whither to
follow them would have been useless.

In spite of the numbers of elephants, buffaloes, and
wild boars, I did not once get the chance of a shot, as it
was impossible to creep along either in the primaeval
forest or in the long grass of the savannahs. I there-
fore returned without prey to Quamouth, where the
* Peace ' arrived on March 20 to take me up the Cassai.

The Cassai, called, as before stated, Nsairi-Qua, both
l3y the people living to the north, the Wayanzi, and
the mixed tribes of the Wanfumu and the Bateke,
narrowed itself to scarcely 200 metres. We hove the
lead, and with a line of thirty-three metres found we
were out of soundings. The brown waters were rapidly

UP THE CASSAI IS'

rolling into Father Congo. For more than a German
mile down the river the brown colour of the water was.
for about a third of the breadth distinctly separated
from the yellow. Besides large numbers of crocodiles,
the soft-scaled tortoises are frequently met with and
seen sailing in straight lines across the stream. At the
narrow mouth of the Cassai the gentlemen at Quamouth
station had a short time ago noticed traces of a disease
among the hippopotami. For about a week large-
numbers of dead animals had daily been seen floating
down the river.

On March 22, the birthday of our late Emperor
William I., we started on our journey up the river.
Besides the commander of the boat, the missionary
Mr. Grenfell, we were accompanied by the above-named
Herren Greshofi" and von Mmptsch.

We next passed several spots where the water had,,
in going down, struck me from its frequent and sudden
changes of colour. The light brown colour repeatedly
alternated with one dark and ruddy, probably caused
by strong currents below.

Being amply provided with fuel, we steamed on till
dusk, and soon dropped anchor off an island covered with
high grass. After dark the island, a pasture ground
for hippopotami, was soon alive with them. I took a
short moonlight walk with Herr von Nimptsch, and, dis-
turbing them at their supper, we made these pachyder-
mata scamper heavily away to their place of refuge.
Only one of them seemed unwilling to be disturbed ;
he was standing in the deep grass, and warned us off
by snorting rapidly. We tried to make him go on by

14 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

throwing hard clods of earth at him, but as we did not
succeed in moving him we decided upon retreating and
leavinsf the irritated animal undisturbed.

Next day we passed into an almost inextricable net
of channels separated by long-stretching grass-grown
islands and banks. We had to keep carefully in the deep
channels towards the right bank, as I remembered to
have noticed in those on the left bank large stones that
might have damaged the boat. The right bank, as we
were told, is inhabited by the Wabuma, the left by the
Wanfumu, although the existence of homo sapiens could
scarcely be credited in the midst of this vast waste of
water ; nor have I anywhere else got the impression of
so undisturbed a desert as in these parts. In this place
it was that I with my attendants shot seven elephants
and several hippopotami, so that our canoes could
scarcely carry the meat which our men were supplied
with for several months.

We could almost fancy we were transplanted into
an antediluvian period. Fearless, as if man, the most
dangerous beast of prey, were unknown in these regions,
the huge pachydermata were moving about, while as a
rule they only leave their protecting waters and the
shadow of the primaeval forest at night. Hippopotami
were lying basking in the hot sun; elephants were
marching along the river-side singly and in herds, oc-
casionally bathing in the shallow places of the river ;
with buffaloes calmly walking among them. We also
noticed an abundance of all sorts of birds—pelicans
quietly waiting for their prey, flocks of different kinds
^of wild ducks which the lagoons were stocked with.

ELEPHANTS 15

beautiful black geese almost resembling swans, and the
so-called spur-goose. On some dry brandies on tlie
bank were perched lurking cormorants and splendidly
dyed kingfisliers ; the river eagle was seen proudly
soaring along the bank ; while white-headed vultures
were perching on naked branches, and thousands of
lesser birds, such as strand-runners, rails, and fish-hawks,
were haunting the place. Different kinds of storks were
gravely and solemnly stalking across the flooded islands,
and on the bank the large heron was visible in the shade
of some overhanging branches.

Apparently undisturbed peace is reigning ever^^where
among those thousands of different creatures, all enticed
by the mighty stream, with its cooling floods and its
abundance of animal life. Now and again the deep-
toned voice of the behemoth makes the peaceful stillness
resound, involuntarily causing one to start. Here one
has to get accustomed to sounds that try one's nerves
most painfully by their loudness and strangeness. That
reminds me of the above-named elephant hunt in the same
neighbourhood. We had killed only female animals
and young ones, and were surprised not to liave found
one male among the lot, when in the dead of night the
huge creatures came in search of their families. They
stopped close to the camp, where the flesh of their mates
was being dried by the bright fires. The scent of the
blood must have convinced them of the loss they had
sustained, for they raised a wailing sound so deep, so
strange and mournful, that I was startled from my sleep
and deeply touched with the singularly impressive tones.

At my request we landed in the evening at an island

THEOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

noted for the interesting tombs of several chiefs of the
Wabuma tribe. I conducted the gentlemen who were
with me across a small farm, where an old negro who
had charge of the tombs lived by himself. Then we
passed into the dome-like forest, where the underwood,

I the ferns and amo-

mum, a kind of jun-
gle, had been cleared,
and only the gigantic
stems held the beauti-
fully arched leafy roof
that cast a deep shadow
over the place. It
felt almost cold here^
and one of our com-
panions most appro-
priately quoted, ' Und
in Poseidons Fichten-
liain tritt er mit from-
mem Schauder ein.'
Thirty to forty large
elephant-tusks marked
the tombs ; but the
former had suffered
much from the atmo-
sphere and were de-
cayed and damaged;
nor was it possible to
recognise the original shapes of the knives, spears,
and arrows, once perhaps the weapons of those buried.
The old sexton was evidentlv reheved when we left this

'i^^

«d.-

TOMBS OF THE WAI!U3L\ CHIEFS

VENEBABLE TOMBS 17

interesting place without having desecrated the tombs
by touching its rehcs. Next morning early we caught
sight of a block of houses at Mushie, where we took in
provisions. There was a large supply of manioc flour,
maize, dried fish, fowls, and eggs. Close to the village
our men found some gigantic trees with low hanging
branches, and creeping up their stems some wild vines
with immense grapes that were full of small blue berries.
Although rather sour, the grapes were not bad ; but
after eating a good many of them they left a tickling
sensation in the throat, so that, not having a botanist
amongst us to tell us its proper name, we called them
' Kriitzer.'

Just above the villages the Mfini empties its black
waters into the brown Cassai. This river, because of
the quantity of water near its mouth, may be compared
to our river Saale. It shows this black colour after the
discharge into it of Leopold Lake — which lake Stanley
had discovered two years before my sailing down the
Cassai. The Mfini, as stated by Kund and Tappenbeck,
is in its upper course called Lukenja. A good distance
upward the river is navigable, and if the natives' report
may be relied on, it flows farther up through a still un-
known lake. Its upper course is supposed to be only a
few days' journey north-east from where the Lomami
falls into the Sankurru.

We now turned to the left side of the Cassai, alongf
which we intended to keep, and, if possible, to find the
mouths of the southern tributaries, whose upper courses
1 crossed in 1881 and its middle courses in 1884. The
best guide for finding the mouths of tributaries in such

THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

wild districts is the colour of the water, as it \^ very
rarely the case that tributaries have the same colour as
the main stream, which is dyed by waters coming from
many different directions.

Scarcely had we passed through the labyrinth of
banks and islands, and across the river, at least seven
kilometres broad, and reached the left bank, when, fol-
lowing the sudden darkening of the water upwards,

JOURNEY ON A HIPPOPOTAMUS

we entered a meandering watercourse of sixty metres
breadth, that was flowing from east-south-east. We could
only go up this rivulet for about two hours' journey,
because we noticed some stones that would have en-
dangered the comparatively large vessel. The small river
Lua, three-and-a-half metres deejD, was winding through
an endless grass-plain towards its mouth in 3° 10' south
latitude.

Game was very plentiful on the plain. Some ele-
phants were frightened four times at short intervals by
the noise of our engine, and on turning I noticed a great

ABUNDANCE OF GAME^ < 19

number of these animals close to an ant-liill. A leopard
was crossing the river immediately before us, but escaped
our shots, as we could not get our guns ready before the
beautiful beast had disappeared among the high reeds.
Most comical it was to watch a hippopotamus that
■dared not venture to pass in the narrow river : now
he kept rushing wildly on in the water, then galloped
-along the riverside in the hope of getting away from the
•ever-snorting steam monster that was incessantly pur-
suincf him. I hit the animal at last, for later on, when
we were sailing towards the Cassai, it was seen floating
on the surface. Herr Greshoff shot a crocodile that
was being carried down the river on the dead hippopo-
tamus, and then we encamped to prepare the game for
our negroes, who are very fond of the flesh of these
animals.

Next day we proceeded along the left bank, and in
the course of the forenoon we came upon some light
brown water greatly difiering from that of the Cassai.
Ofi" a large place named Jukissi we dropped anchor on
the Quango, near the mouth of the Sali Mbi, which we
had discovered when going down. The inhabitants of
the village and surrounding farms assembled, and sold
us large quantities of fuel and provisions.

Most of our negroes were at the village, when, all
of a sudden, a commotion arose among the crowd of
natives, and from their shouting and loud quarrelling
tones we conjectured that our men were engaged in a
dispute.

Mr. Grenfell, who had once seen the effect of the
powerful voice of his ' Peace ' when investigating the

c 2

20 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

Mubangi, now sounded the steam- whistle. The im-
pression was again so overpowering that all the natives
took to their heels in wild fear, disappearing in the
thickets and rushing towards the village. Only one
old white-haired Herculean chief, who was standing
close to the river, felt ashamed to run, but was terrified
to such a degree that he staggered backward, and only-
kept his footing by catching hold of a tree.

As soon as our crew had got on board we weighed
anchor, and steamed up the Quango to find a place that
would enable us to take a drawing of the river. About
800 metres above the village, the banks of the river,
that on its mouth form a delta, began to rise to such
a height that we supposed its waters were all concen-
trated in this part. We found the breadth to be 650
metres by an average depth of five-and-a-half metres^
and a speed of seventy-five metres a minute. The
ground was soft and sandy, and the temperature of the
water was 81° (Fahrenheit) — scarcely one degree colder
than that of the Cassai.

Several miles above the mouth of the Quango we
once more passed into that wide lake-like opening to
which, in going down, we had given the name of
' Wissmann Pool.'

It is remarkable how continually the scenery near a
river changes. On entering Wissmann Pool, the grass
islands and the endless prairie-like banks come to an end.
Parts of a primeval forest of rattan and palm-trees come
in sight, and in straight lines, like the veins in marble,
islands lie intersected by deep branches of the river.
These islands are covered with palms, of which the oil

TROPICAL LUXURIANCE 21

species thrives particularly well, and covers the ground
throughout, so as to make one suppose the islands to
have formerly been palm plantations. In order to get a
regular plantation of luxuriantly developed oil-palms,
all that would be necessary would be to' cut down the
underwood and ferns, and somewhat clear the thickly-
grown palms. Supposing the palm-oil, the product of
such a plantation, to be put up in casks and floated
straight down to Stanley Pool — where the Congo Eail-
way, shortly to be completed, would undertake the
further comparatively short transport — both islands
and banks, closely grown with palms as they are, might
yield, some day, great profit.

The terrain must be magnificent, the colours being
so luxuriant, so deep and soft, as to give one an im-
pression of very rich soil. At present the huge grapes
fall off and rot away, unless some native happens to cut
the tree to obtain the much-valued palm-wine and take
possession of the grapes.

In the mornings and evenings, innumerable grey
parrots make an almost deafening noise, and are silent
only in the hot sun at noon. Even in moonlight nights
this strange bird undertakes long excursions in large
flocks, which noisily interrupt the stillness of night.

When next day, the 28th, we proceeded up the
river, it struck us how differently the natives were dis-
posed towards us. In some parts they pursued us
down the bank with loud invectives and threats, and
with bows bent ; in others they beckoned to us, eagerly
desiring to sell provisions, and altogether showing
themselves most friendly. This was very likely owing

22 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

to the passing of my expedition on its up journey.
Wolf and a great number of Europeans who were with
me had won over the natives by presents and pur-
chases.

I am not entering into any details about the different
tribes, which, though ascertained only by such super-
ficial observation as we could make, have been given in
the work ' Im Innern Afrikas,' which enlarges upon our
sailing down and exploring the Cassai.

On the 29 th we found the Cassai for a long way
bare of islands, and took a drawing of the river thir-
teen knots above Wissmann Pool.^ With 1,200 metres
breadth and nine metres depth, we ascertained a speed
of eighty metres a minute. After jjassing Wissmann
Pool, the banks and islands showed thick forests, and
with them the hippopotami grew more and more scarce
from their now being in want of j)asture. The last of
them, being startled by our approach, was on the point
of plunging into the water, when I fired and hit it when
it was within a distance of a hundred metres, so that
it fell in quite shallow water. This shot gained me the
praise of the Europeans, and above all that of the
negroes, who are always greedy for flesh. To produce
such an effect is possible only when the shot penetrates,
the brain, which is of about the size of one's hand.

Henceforward we repeatedly met native islanders
on the Cassai, but learned that their sojourn here was.
only transitory, during the time of the sugar harvest.
From the sugar-cane they fabricate a highly intoxicating
drink of a very pleasant acid taste. A number of such

^ For the complete collection of sections vide Appendix II.

MOUNT POGGE 23

manufacturers called out to us one day, and, probably
in the blissful mood caused by the consumjjtion of
their liquor, saluted us with dancing and singing, and
on parting even presented us with a small pig that,
having been cooked like a sucking-pig, we greatly en-
joyed next day. Once, in order to vary the daily round
of dinner, which generally consisted of either fish or fowl,
we tried a fricassee of a young crocodile that I had shot,
and we could not l^ut own that the tender meat, in

/^'^A;^'

MOUNT POGGE

flavour something between fish and fowl, is by no means
to be despised.

As Mr. Grenfell was particularly desirous of termi-
nating the journey as quickly as possible, we generally
steamed until evening, and then set to work until it was
dark in getting wood ready for next day's fuel. This
time-absorbing business will not be necessary much
longer, as the natives have taken the measure of the wood
required, so as to have it always ready for sale at a
cheap price to any passing steamer.

24 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

The only elevation amidst tlie uniform level of the
banks of the Cassai — which in our descent we named
Mount Pogge — is less conspicuous to those coming up
than to those going down the river. It is probable
that near this elevation a river from the north empties
itself, but the number of channels prevented our making
sure of it. One may, however, pretty certainly depend
upon its being a branch of the Cassai, and not a
separate river, whenever the water does not change
colour.

We were now approaching the Bassongo-Mino tribe,
whose treacherous attack and hostile fury we had
severely punished on going down. Wherever we
stopped to collect or purchase wood, the natives fled
from their cottaoes, even if but one of us on some short
excursion lighted upon a village. On one of these ex-
peditions I could not resist the temptation of taking
some new and interesting weapons and tools from such
a deserted village. In place of them I put some bright-
coloured handkerchiefs and beads, which amply made
up for the value of the things annexed.

On April 2, after passing a bend of the river, we
called out simultaneously, ' There is Kund and Tappen-
beck's camp ! ' It was indeed a strange coincidence that
the two officers had come u]3on the river in a spot that
could not be passed unnoticed, as it is marked by two
immense adansonias that are standins^ close to the river
side, with their stems grown together, a few metres west
from the mouth of a small brook. If those adanso-
nias are not the only trees of this species that meet
the traveller's eye on the Cassai, they are certainly the

KUND AND TAPPENBEGKS CAMP

most striking. We landed here, and found the camp
of our countrymen marked by some small grass sheds,
besides a great many remnants of dried fish and the
skull of an antelope. In order to mark the place for
the future I cut with a hatchet a large and distinct ' K '
into the largest adansonia. Astronomical observations
made at the request of Kund proved the place to be in
3° 4 J ' S. and 18° 41' E. We could not but acknowledg-e

KUND AND TAPPENBECK S PLACE OF ENCAMPMENT ON THE CASSAI

that, considering the savageness of the natives, it was a
laudable achievement, with so small and comparatively
weak an expedition as Kund's was, to pass the stream in
this spot, so immensely broad, intersected with banks
and islands covered with reeds. On ascertaining the
latitude of this place we proved that Kund's supposition
of having passed the Quango and Quilu is right, and
that the latter falls into the Quango, as between this

26 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

passage and the mouth of the Quango we could not have
missed the mouth of such an imj)ortant river as the Quilu
in its lower course must be.

When sailing down before Kund's exjDedition we had
been struck with the above-named adansonias, which we
accordingly made a note of. The latitude, as we ascer-
tained at this place when last staying there, corresponds
with that taken now by Grenfell, while on our map we
marked the adansonias farther east in 19° 8'. The
vicinity of Mount Pogge, which is conspicuous from a
long distance, also confirms our supposition that Kund's
expedition had been carried out north of the Cassai to
the then quite unknown Lukenja.

After leaving this interesting place we had a very
heavy fall of rain without thunder — according to our ex-
perience and the assertion of some hshermen, quite a*
singular circumstance.

Sailing up the left bank for two hours, we found the
mouth of a river 200 metres broad, although the channel
was only seventy metres in breadth ; the excess being
due to an overflow. The average speed was sixty metres
a minute, the water was almost l)lack, the bottom soft
and boggy. We were not aljle to ascertain the name of
this river, and avoided sailing upward, as, on account
of the overflow and the dark waters, we could not dis-
tinguish whether we were keeping in the channel or
moving in the inundated part. The source of this river
must be in about 6° N., as south of this latitude the
waters are divided between the Quilu and the Loange,
which two rivers approach each other to within a short
distance.

BAKUTU COUNTBY 27

Next morning we again passed the mouth of a rivulet
thirty metres broad. We were now in the Bakutu
country, a branch of the savage tribe of the Bassongo-
Mino that gave us so much trouble on going down.
The numerous villages were emptied wherever the natives
caught sight of us. The straight streets of the village
were only enlivened by black pigs, which are bred here in
large numbers, and by the African pariah dog, which is.
generally the same everywhere. The fishermen fled in hoL
haste, pushing their slender canoes ashore, and nothing
could induce them to answer our questions ; which greatly
annoyed me, as I wanted to show some of the tribe that
our fighting at the time had only been for the purpose
of defending ourselves. The Bakutu seemed to be an
exceptionally excitable race, as may be inferred from the
following observation, which I made when going down.
Nearly all the warriors killed in this l^attle were wounded
not only by our balls but also by one of their own long
javelins. This could not possibly be accidental, as on our
side we had to record only very slight wounds. I there-
fore conjectured that the fleeing warriors would not
allow any of their companions that they could not take
with them to fall alive into our hands, and for this
reason gave them the final thrust themselves.

Wlien we reached the Bangodi country the natives.
gave us, on the whole, a friendly welcome ; only in the
village a dispute arose among some tipsy Bangodi and
our men, whom they had robbed of a newly purchased
fowl. The number of natives who, alarmed by the
noise, appeared upon the scene with their arms in-
creased, and the women disappeared. I went ashore

•28 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

to settle the dispute, called our men from among the
crowd of natives, and sent them on before me to the
bank, where the boat was in waiting for us. The
Bangodi who had remained behind were mostly drunk ;
they took up a threatening position, and I, escorting
our men, and not wishing to turn so as to show fear,
walked backwards towards the boat with my cocked
gun directed against the closely following natives.
When the men who were watching us from the boat
warned me that the excited natives meant violence,
firing both the barrels of my gun would have scared
them away. They, however, did not venture an attack,
but only pursued me with their threats as I was walking
in front of them, regardless of their uproar.

In the Bangodi country, instead of the oil palm
generally met with on the banks, we found the fan
palm, though apparently palms only grew on the
islands and on the narrow tracts along the river.
Further landward we saw nothing but wood, here and
there relieved by places cleared for plantations.

On the 5th we again came upon the mouth of a
dark brown river, the Sali-Lebue, sixty metres broad
and on an average four metres deep, with a speed of
seventy metres a minute. The bottom was soft and
boggy, and the water had a temperature of 81°
(Fahrenheit), the same as the Cassai had been found to
have for some distance. According to the observations
•of my former expeditions across the upper tributaries
of the Cassai, this river must likewise rise north of the
sixth degree.

The Lebue forms the boundary between the Bangodi

THE BADINGA 2^

and the numerous tribe of tlie Badinga. The latter
are the most dexterous river navigators I know ; a full-
manned canoe, in which twelve men, standing behind
each other, were handling oars of two metres' length,
managed to keep up with the ' Peace.' Such a full-
manned canoe is a beautiful sight, with the stalwart,
muscular, dark-brown figures smoothly swinging their
oars up and down so as to keep the plumes on their
heads in wild motion. Eesting one foot on the edge of
the vessel, they made the slender canoe glide rapidly
along the yellow water, singing in rough tones to the
vigorous strokes of their oars. The Badinga always
strike me as having particularly muscular thighs and
calves. Their gait appears heavy, probably from their
almost living on canoes. They have their plantations
on islands or close to the river ; the palms that furnish
them with wine likewise grow near the water, and on
their fishing expeditions they have to make use of a
canoe.

The everyday life of the Badinga requires, on the
whole, very little exercise besides rowing. In the
morning the men, after having basked in the first rays
of the sun, will inspect their weir-baskets, collect into
their calabashes the wine that during the night has
been gathering in the palms, and perhajjs visit a
neighbouring village on the river-side. Then they re-
turn home and partake of the meal meanwhile cooked
by their wives, consisting of manioc porridge and
roasted sweet potatoes, with dried fish, after which they
give themselves up to the enjoyment of their palm-
wine. Thus, in districts where the palm grows plenti-

so THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

full}-, you will often find tlie male part of tlie population
in a state of intoxication. For this reason, therefore,
it is not advisable to visit such countries in the after-
noon, for the negro, when intoxicated, is easily inclined
to quarrel ; he will at such times even lose the timidity
habitual to him ; while, if you arrive in the morning,
the people have not had time to get into their daily fit
of drunkenness, and have enough to do in discussing
the wonderful stranger and in preparing their sales.
You will very seldom find tipsy women ; they have too
much work to do to be able to enjoy their wine un-
disturbed, as they have to manage the whole farm.
Then they have the meals to cook for their lords and
masters, to get the fish ready for drying, to keep their
cottacres clean — which is mostly done with the utmost
neatness — and to perform those general duties that also
fall to the share of our wives and mothers, though
there is not much required of a mother here, the baby
neoToes being literally left to self-education.

We were struck by the wild rough tones of the
Badinga voice, which, in the excitement of transacting
business, assumes the most extraordinary modulations.

The Mudinga are inveterate traders. In some places,
where probably those Europeans who had gone up
with my Baluba had purchased weapons, the people
brouo-ht everything for sale that they could lay hold
of, as the white men will buy everything, down to large
pieces of dry wood to line their canoes with.

The banks of the Cassai now begin to ascend to a
level height of from thirty to fifty metres, and are covered
with wood, unless where manioc and maize plantations,

THE BANKS OF THE CASSAI 31

with tlieir briglit green foliage, contrast with the dark
^reen tints of the primaeval forest. They are densely
populated. The stream often decreases in breadth ; one
may on an average calculate that at 800 metres the
currents grow stronger, and in or behind the curves of
the banks sand will collect and disappear with incredible
rapidity. This sand consists of minute particles of very
hard quartz, which if trodden upon produces a singing
sound — and this highly amused the negroes of our party.
When we landed in the evening close to the forest,
which was partly overflowed by the waters of the
Cassai, now at their greatest height, we had an oppor-
tunity of seeing an interesting hunt. On an ant-hill
towering above the inundated ground we saw a lizard
about the length of a hand creeping up to a tiny little
shrew-mouse. The latter, spying the enemy, tried to
escape, and at last jumped into the water, but was
seized there by the pursuing lizard and dragged down
into the deep.

On the 6th we entered the Sali-Temboa, so called
after the junction of the Loange and Lushiko, from a
southern direction ; three kilometres above the mouth
we found by measurement, with an average depth of
three metres of water, a breadth of 100 metres, and a
speed of 120 metres a minute : which allowed us to pro-
ceed but slowly. The bottom was partly sand, partly
mud, and the water was so saturated with iron clay as
to present a decided orange tint. Close to the mouth
— formed by two channels, which together are 230
metres broad — the river, with the same rapidity, is only
one-and-a-half to two metres deep.

32 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

A short distance above we came upon the hutSy
the only remnants of my down journey. They were
one metre under water, which proves that since then
the river had risen about one-and-a-half metre in its
shallowest part.

On the 8th we reached the mouth of the Sankurru.
On entering the southern branch of its mouth we
learned from the natives that a small steamer (Dr.
Wolf's ' En Avant ') had a short time ago returned from
a downward journey on the Sankurru to go up the
Cassai. We found the stream to be joined above its
delta, and ascertained a breadth of 450 metres by an
average depth of five-and-a-half metres and a current
of forty-five metres a minute. Sailing down the northern
branches round the delta island, we found the current
less rapid than during the dry season, when we could
even make the iron boat go against the current of this
branch.

The islands near the mouth of the Sankurru showed,
as is always the case near the junctions of several rivers,
a great deal of animal life. The number of hippopo-
tami was as large as at the mouth of the Quango,
and of crocodiles as well; one of which hit the boat
such a blow as to make us fear that the screws might
break. The length of one of these ravenous reptiles
we estimated at fully eight metres, with a proportion-
ate breadth and height.

In order to draw a parallel between the water mass
of the Sankurru and that of the Cassai, we next day
made measurements fifteen sea-miles above the mouth
of the Sankurru. The breadth was 750 metres, the

A LANDSLIP 33

average depth seven-and-a-half metres, and the speed
sixty-five metres a minute ; the result of which is a water
mass three times as larore as that of the Sankurru.

Having been able to buy a good supply of firewood,
we next day proceeded at full speed up stream towards
the mouth of the Lulua. We were surprised to find
that frequently in the bends of the river the banks had
slipped, where they often descend perpendicularly into
the water, from a height of twenty-five metres ; once, far
ahead, we even saw a whole wall of earth slip down, at
the same time burying among the deep yellow waves a
gigantic tree that had grown on the water's edge. The
largest river boat would, if close to such a sliding^
mass, be dashed to pieces or capsized by the body of
water that, after having first been stopped, rushes along
with redoubled force.

The prima3val forest was everywhere enlivened by
numerous parrots and hosts of monkeys, but directly
after sunset the deep silence of the desert prevails,
which, as a European, you will never experience on your
native continent. Be it imagination, be it excitement
of the nerves, the slightest sound which at night in-
terrupts the deep quiet seems to startle you. The
piercing shrieks of the nocturnal monkey, the splash-
ing of a fish pursued by a crocodile, or the deep thun-
dering of the hippopotamus, causes the auricular nerves
to be continually on the alert. On one of those quiet
evenings I had encamped with my attendants near our
landing-place, when a melodious hymn sung by many
voices suddenly interrupted the dead silence, Mr.
Grenfell, on board the ' Peace,' was having evening

34 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

prayers, and I must confess that this solemn music
under such circumstances produced the most elevating-
sensations.

On the 12th, at noon, we saw at a distance the mouth
of the Lulua, which I had seen on a former occasion,
and soon after I descried some white-robed figures close
to the mouth. These latter could only be my people,
for the Bakuba, as well as the Mukete and other na-
tive traders about here, have no white materials for
clothing ; their stuffs are only black or brown-red. On
approaching, we actually discovered the steamer ' En
Avant ' immediately above the mouth of the Lulua with
my men on board, who, excited at the approach of our
vessel, were running to and fro, beckoning to us the
while. A boat despatched by the ' En Avant ' reached
us just when we were casting anchor, and its occupant,
the commander of the ' En Avant,' a gentleman from the
Congo State under Dr. Wolf's command, informed us
that Dr. Wolf, with the gunsmith Schneider, who had
now taken the office of engineer on the 'En Avant,'
had landed near the steamer. From his report it ap-
peared that Dr. Wolf, after having terminated his ex-
pedition on the Sankurru, had been intending to explore
that part of the Cassai which is above the mouth of
the Lulua, when for the third time in this place the
eno-ine had been damac^ed to such an extent as to forbid
every attempt at repair.

I landed at once, that I might find my old friend and
comrade Wolf. He was just returning from an expedi-
tion ; and, in our mutual sincere delight at meeting, we
shook hands, and in a rapid discourse, carried on like

ENCOUNTEBING DR. WOLF

liglitning, we made each
other acquainted with the
most interestincf events
since the time of our sepa-
ration. I now learned that
Wolf, after his return from
Stanley Pool with the
' Stanley,' had stopped
where the Luebo falls into
the Lulua. As the Lulua
"was no longer navigable here, he had, assisted by the
•returning caravan, cleared the impenetrable primseval

D 2

MY MEETING DB. WOLF

36 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

forest in a place suitable for the founding of a station,
and by building huts and fortifications he had formed
what was now the port of Luluaburg. Wolf had then
marched up to Luluaburg, and had found the station,
under the approved command of our faithful Bugslag,
in an excellent condition, and had just been in time to
join the joyful entrance of the returning Baluba into
Kalamba's capital. After settling his business in Ka-
lamba's country, he had returned to the Luebo, there
to make preliminary arrangements for erecting the
station ; and then he had gone down in the ' En Avant '
to the Sankurru to thoroughly explore the latter, with
its river system. On his return from this expedition,
he had again been at the Luebo ; and two da3^s before
our meeting him here, on his way to explore the
Cassai upward, he had broken down with his steamer.

My friend, alas ! in the midst of his work in the
Togo country on his march to Dahomey had succumbed
to the fever. The contents of his diaries, placed at my
disposal by his parents, are added in the next chapter,
and give evidence of his valuable and ever-restless
activity.

LUEBO STATION

CHAPTEE II

DR. LUDWIG wolf's EXPLOEATION OF THE SANKURRU

RETURN OF THE BASHILA^^GE TO THEIR NATIVE COUNTRY

Foundation of Luebo station — Luluabiu-g — Exploration of the Sankurru
— The condition of the ' En Avant_' — Savage steersmen — Effect of a
glaring colour — Brass and copper, African gold — Intimidation of some
Bassange for their impudence — ' The Sankurru is good, the Lubilash
wicked' — Zappu Zapp — Caution! On the Lubi — The'EnAvant' in
danger — A new river — Lomami ? — Average — Ethnography — At the
station.

The description of my second journey 'Ini Innern
Afrikas ' and the exploration of the Cassai concludes
with my departure for Madeira, which ill-health had
made necessary. Before leaving I had installed Dr.
Wolf, the oldest officer of my expedition, as com-
mander.

After my leaving Stanley Pool, Wolf expedited the

38 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

construction of the largest Congo steamer, the ' Stanley,*
so that he was able to start on October 5, 1885, ta
conduct our Bashilange, who had accompanied us on
our exploration of the Cassai, back to their country.
Besides the ' Stanley,' which, after disembarking the
Bashilange, was immediately to return to Stanley Pool,.
the small steamer ' En Avant ' was entrusted to Wolf.

The Bashilange had been great sufferers during their
several months' stay at Stanley Pool, and many an
ardent hemp -smoker had been carried off by inflamma-
tion of the lungs. So it was natural that their delight
should be great on being embarked for their return to
the Lulua, their beloved home. The two steamers took
twenty-eight days in sailing up the river to where the
Luebo falls into it, and above which the navigation is.
stopped by rapids. The whole passage was accom-
plished satisfactorily. The ' Stanley,' with very nearly
250 people on board, besides a great deal of luggage,
went along splendidly, in spite of the medium depth of
the water. On November 7 the boats cast anchor off a
neck of land formed by the confluence of the Luebo
and the Lulua, which was at the time covered with im-
penetrable forests. The first thing Wolf did was to clear
a place that he thought suitable for building a station ;,
and, as he had persuaded Kalamba and all his men ta
stay and assist him, the work was completed in a com-
paratively short time. In spite of their long absence from
home, in spite of their longing to join their wives and
children, the honest people, at Wolf's request, consented
to stay with him for the present.

The surrounding tribes, by no means relishing the-

STAFF-PHYSICIAN DE. LUUWIG WOLF

LULUABUBG 39

idea that the white men should settle there, were kept in
check by their presence until the day of their departure,
when tliey left the station in so favourable a condition
that, with the remaining garrison, it could hold out
against any attack of the Bakete or Bakuba.

Lieutenant Bateman, formerly an English officer, was
placed under Wolf's command, and, with some of our
soldiers and several Bashilange, remained at the Luebo,
while Wolf accompanied Kalamba and his men. A
five days' march brought him to Luluaburg, where he
met Bugslag, who had meanwhile been improving the
station in every respect. Wolf then entered Kalamba's
residence in state, followed by Kalamba himself, Sangula,
Chingenge, and their faithful attendants.^

When Wolf had given Bugslag directions for the
next few months, he hastened back to the Luebo to
hurry on the building of the new station and to start
with the steamer ' En Avant,' which was placed at his
disposal for the exploration of the tributaries of the
Cassai, and, above all, of the Sankurru.

This really very old vessel, without even a deck, was
in an extremely bad condition, as Wolf had not been
allowed time to have it thoroughly repaired on the
Congo, nor had he any spare stores with him. The
command of this vessel was entrusted to one Captain
Van der Felsen, while the engineering duties were per-
formed by our shrewd gunsmith Schneider, who, in
spite of the most difficult circumstances, showed him-

^ Wolfs diaries, which are at my disposal, begin at a much later
l^eriod. I can, therefore, onlj' repeat these facts as I remember them
from his communications.

40 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

self perfectly equal to tlie task, as was proved by events
which will be mentioned later.

On January 9, 1886, the preparations for a longer
expedition were completed, and Wolf left the Luebo.
Although he had twice joassed the mouth of the San-
kurru, and had entered the Cassai with me in the iron
boat, it was yet difficult to find the confluence of the
two rivers. This time the colour of the Sankurru, which,
as a rule, is darker than that of the Cassai — the rivers
are of a different colour in the different seasons, owing to
the heavy rain — was not distinguishable. The labyrinth
of islands and banks and the delta of the Sankurru have
the appearance of a maze. Wolf kept on the right side of
the Cassai until he saw by the difference in current that
he was on the Sankurru. This tributary flowed from a
NNE. direction, and the main river from SSE. The
northern bank forms at the mouth of the Sankurru a
high and steep wall of red laterite ; the shores are
covered with savannahs of trees and underwood. The
delta island reminds one of our marshy alder groves ;
even the trees with which the low land is covered re-
semble our alder, except that they are much thicker.

The Sankurru soon opens into a beautifully majestic
river of a breadth of 2,000 to 3,000 metres, and an aver-
age depth of three metres. The banks vary more than
on the Cassai ; sloping hills now and again interrupt the
long stretches of wood, and often command a view of
apparently endless prairies. Whenever the men were
engaged in cutting firewood, Wolf made brief inland
expeditions in order to gain an idea of the inner country
and to form an opinion of the natives ; in short, to find

CONDITION OF THE 'EN AVANT' 41

out what it was that the wooded banks, the high reeds,
or the rattan jungles were trying to veil from the eyes of
the traveller.

They made but slow progress, as the engine of the
* En Avant ' was in a very bad condition. After a day
or two, worn-out steam-pipes and fire-bars had to be
supplied by gun-barrels ; and as Wolf had never cal-
culated upon having to use his firearms in this manner,
his fighting strength was greatly diminished.

While the water of the Sankurru retained the dark
clay colour, the rivulets and brooks flowing from a
northern direction were of a deej) black. The abundance
of fish in this river was marvellous ; one kind of eel
especially, which was frequently offered for sale by the
natives, was of a very good flavour. The number of
hippopotami was not much less than on the Cassai, while
crocodiles were far more plentiful. One nuisance that
we had not to complain of when exploring the Cassai,
we were here made sensible of to an unusual extent : the
mosquitoes, in spite of their diminutive size, were so
bloodthirsty and so numerous, that we seldom succeeded
in shutting them out from the protecting curtains.
These insects, even more irritating from their loud
buzzino; than from their stino- were a oiTat drawback to
the pleasant evenings ; for the sun, when he is declining,
loses his scorching power, and a refreshing breeze floats
through the valley, while animal life begins to stir every-
where, which gives the European an oj)portunity for
interesting observations.

The left bank is inhabited by the Bakuba, the right
by different tribes of the Bassongo-Mino race. The

42 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

canoes were even larger than those on the Cassai ;
in one of them Wolf counted eighty warriors. The
banks were thickly inhabited, if we may judge from the
number of boats that accompanied the 'En Avant/
Sometimes upwards of fifty of these slender vessels,,
made of some brown or red wood, gathered round the
steamer. Ofl they darted in a grand race past the ' En
Avant,' and then waited for her approach, showing their
delight at their victory by shouting and beating against
the sides of the boat with the palms of their hands ; after
which, they would begin the race for a second time.
They accompanied the strong strokes of their oars with
sincfinff.

The territory of the Bassongo-Mino, to which that
of the Bashobe and Butoto was joined, extended to about
the twenty-third degree of longitude. This same degree
was on the left bank the boundary of tlie Bakuba. As
they had treated us on the Cassai, the Bassongo-Mino-
met Wolf now in a hostile manner, though no fight took
place, until Temba, the daughter of a powerful Bankutu
chief named Gaj)etsh, came to negotiate for peace.
Fearless, with only few attendants, she came alongside
the steamer to sell ivory and articles skilfully woven
from palm-fibres. She asked for brass and coloured
stuffs in return, and thus gave the first impulse for a
peaceful intercourse. This news was quickly spread,
and had advantageous consequences.

That reminds me of a very singular occurrence in
my bargaining with the Bakuba. I once bought an
elephant's tusk, for Avliich the salesmen asked cloth-
ing materials. Wishing to make an impression upon

EFFECT OF A GLARING COLOUR 43

them, I suddenly unfolded before tlieir eyes a piece of
glaring red stuff. The effect was entirely different from
what I had expected. With a shriek of terror the
Bakuba jumped up, covered their eyes, and fled for a
short distance. The effect seemed to me the same as the
report of a gun : as this sudden and unknown noise
startles the ear, so the eye is surprised by the sudden
appearance of a strange colour.

But to return to Wolf. He accepted the invitation
of the amiable Princess Temba and accompanied her to
her village. They had first to pass through a thick
growth of wood joined by undulating savannahs. Then
they passed well-cultivated maize and manioc planta-
tions, the luxuriant growth of which is produced by a
thick layer of vegetable earth. The village was built
after a regular plan, with broad streets, overshadowed
by fan-palms. The natives behaved in an exceedingly
pacific way. They brought Wolf quantities of palm-
wine, and on his return to the river a chief offered to
conduct him up the stream.

Wolf was greatly surprised to find ornaments of
brass here, which, as we knew, came from the Congo,
the precious metal exported from the south being copper.
Another proof that these nations are connected with
those further north, and that the traders of the Cono-o,
probably the Bayanzi, must go long distances up the
Mfini-Lukenja, was the circumstance that here they
wore the same massive rings round the neck as there,
and that the natives said they had bought these orna-
ments up to fifteen kilogrammes in weight in exchange
for ivory from the Lukenja, a river that was five days*

44 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

journey further north. They asked Wolf to stay and
build a house, offering at the same time to cut down all
the trees on the bank so as to allow the large fire-canoe
sufficient room for mooring.

Farther up the stream the natives were less peace-
fully disposed ; the foUow^ers of a great chief, Jongolata,
were most insolent in the camp, where Wolf had esta-
blished himself for a few days, in consequence of a
repair of the engine l^eing necessary. (Jne day, when
some goods had been spread for drying, some full-manned
canoes approached, from the foremost of which a hand-
some tall warrior jumped out. He was carrying his
bow and arrows, and, supported by his attendants, soon
began to perform a wild dance.

The Bassongo, feeling they were strong in numbers,
came into the camp, in order by their insolent be-
haviour to frustrate any amicable intercourse. Guns
being unknown to them, they ver}^ likely thought Wolfs
followers to be without arms. These insolent warriors
made sarcastic remarks about Wolf and his men ; their
especial attention was excited by a rather fat Zanzibari,
from which it would appear that embonpoint is rare
in these parts. The chief, Jongolata, soon became so
impudent that Wolf, apprehending an outrage, took
out his pistol, which he fired close before the chief's
face.

The effect was overpowering ; the chief was trembling
all over, and the bold warriors took to flight, so that
they had gained their canoes before Wolf had overtaken
them, when he found them most civil in their manners.
Jongolata made him presents of some poultr}^ and took

THE SANKUBBU AND THE LUBILASH 45

liis leave with vivid protestations of friendship. These
Bassongo are generally slim, tall-grown people, not so-
clumsy and muscular as the Bakuba ; they are supposed
to be inveterate cannibals.

Farther up the stream no intercourse seemed to be
carried on, either towards the north or with the Lower
Sankurru. Nothing was found to indicate commerce —
no brass, nor beads, nor stuffs, but ivory in abundance,
offered at a very low price.

On February 18, Wolf dropped anchor in the very
place where Pogge and I, in 1882, discovered and passed
the Sankurru. Wolf also learned here from the Bena-
Kotto and the Baluba that the river flowed always
towards the north. This may be accounted for by the
fact that at the confluence of the Lubi and the San-
kurru all intercourse of the nations appears to cease
altogether. Wolf found out, as I had likewise done
three years before, that the river from this point up-
ward is called Lubilash, and a chief of the Kotto, who
talked to him much about Pogge and myself, said to him :
' The Sankurru is good, the Lubilash wicked,' meaning
that navigation would now prove difficult and danger-
ous, while in the river flowing downwards and called
Sankurru it was good. This prophecy soon came true.
The continued soundings, having mostly revealed clayey
ground, now suddenly came upon stones. The river,
with a strong current, often forced itself between steep
rocks of granite and laterite, with only 100 metres breadth
and three metres depth. Wolf passed four moderately
strong currents, after which he ran aground, and in con-
sequence gave up every attempt to advance any farther.

46 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Up to a village on the river inhabited by the Batondoi,
•of the Bakuba race, Wolf proceeded by land, and found
the river narrowed to twenty-five metres, with an ex-
ceptionally strong current.

On his march back, Wolf fell in with the well-known
•chief Zappu Zapp, of whom he had heard on going up.
The chief had sent two of his sons to the river with
presents, with the request that he would wait for Zappu
Zapp. The messengers told Wolf that he was the first
white man that had come to visit their chief; two
others — meaning Pogge and myself — not having ac-
cepted his invitation. Zappu Zapp was not a slave-
hunter, as Wolf had conjectured ; but, as I found several
months later, he had moved westward as far as the
Sankurru, in order to evade Tibbu Tib's roving troops.

To Wolf, Zappu Zapp called himself a friend of the
Arabs, as, being misled by Pogge's and my journey to
Nyangwe, he supposed the white men to be on friendly
terms with them. Wolf found the great chief await-
ing him in the appointed place with many warriors.
Zappu Zapp had some guns which the Arab Djuma
Bin Salim, called Famba, had once sold to him. As
Pamba had been living with him for nearly a year, Zappu
Lapp's warriors had adopted many customs of the
Wanyamwesi, who belonged to Famba's party, as well
-as some scraps of the Suaheli language ; so that the
.Zanzibaris who attended Wolf had been delighted at
beinof reminded of their native countrv.

As all the chiefs who have once communicated
with Arab traders consider the possession of guns and
plenty of powder as the only means to power and

ZAPPU ZAPP 47

wealth, Zappu Zapp requested Wolf to give liim guns in
exchange for ivory, which he carried with him in great
-quantities. On Wolf's decided refusal, Zappu Zapj^ began
to reflect whether it would be possible to possess him-
.self of the guns by force ; and, considering Wolf's inferior
power, this supposition seemed justified. Both Wolf's
■caution and respect for his person evidently prevented
the attempt, as at their first meeting he had shown a
self-possession that greatly intimidated the strangers.

Wolf dropped anchor close to the land, and requested
the chief to advance from out of the crowd of warriors to
welcome him ; Zappu Zapp, however, preferred hiding
Among the crowd who were begging Wolf to land.
When Wolf did so, followed by only one man^ — the others
liad remained on board ready with their guns, whilst
«ome Krupp cannon were pointed towards the troops
■of warriors — and fearlessly approached the people, the
•chief timidly advanced and saluted him.

It is often the case, as it was in this instance, that such
unlooked-for dauntlessness, unaccountable to the negro,
makes a marked impression upon him ; it has more than
•once happened to me that the natives, after some such
a scene, would ask : ' How is it that the white man has no
fear, for all his being so weak and not nearly a match
for us ? He must possess a charm that makes him in-
vulnerable.'

Zappu Zapp, Wolf says, was, like his sons, clad after
the Arab fashion, with a cloth round his hips, over
which he wore a long white shirt ; whilst a handkerchief
was twisted round his head like a turban. The warriors
only wore the national costume, consisting of a head-

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

dress of red parrots' plumes, which was held by a band of
cowrie shells strung like a diadem. The upper part of
the body was naked, with small lines tattooed on the
breast and back ; the hips were covered with brownish
red cloths bordered with yellow, which were arranged in
many plaits and ornamented with tassels. In the arm-
hole hung a short filagree knife inlaid with copper, and
fastened to a cord across the shoulder. Most of them

ON THE LUBI

carried spears and bows ; only some of them had small
percussion guns, imported from the East. Zappu Zapp's
men, as I stated before, are of the Bassongo tribe, living
north and south of the Baluba. The ill-humour caused
by their disappointment at not getting any guns was
removed by some presents from Wolf, which were re-
turned by Zappu Zapp.

When Wolf reached the mouth of the Lubi he

ON THE LUBI 49

entered it and sailed up the stream until lie first touched
the Bena-Ngongo, the same tribe that had robbed us on
my first expedition, and then attacked Pogge when
returning by himself. The people who came to the
bank called out to Wolf to stop or come again, as they
wished to atone by a payment for their past offence to
the white man. This was evidently the cunning of the
insolent and thievish vagabonds, who wished to induce
Wolf to land, since his small force seemed more tempt-
inof than Poo-o-e's caravan had done : for, when Wolf
landed on coming back, the peo]3le had nothing ready
that Wolf might have accepted as an indemnity ; he
■only met an assembly of armed men, part of whom were
trying to hide from him.

The Lubi soon narrowed to sixty metres, and often
•suddenly changed its course. In one of its bends the
' Ell Avant ' was driven violently ashore, so that over-
hanging branches caught the thatched awning con-
structed by Wolf; while the strong current drifted the
boat along sideways, and the ' En Avant ' would have
capsized had not the pillars of the awning been broken
and gone overboard. A great deal of water penetrated
into the steamer ; the hencoop with its occupants, a
Winchester gun, and many other things were washed
■overboard, and the fires were extinguished. This acci-
dent shows how necessary it is on such journeys always
to carry boats with sufiicient room for the crew, and, if
possible, not to tow them alongside of the steamer, but
fastened to a sufficiently long rope. There ought also
to be a man in the boats to throw out the cable in case
any mishap should occur.

THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

Wolf did not go up the Lubi any farther, but sailed
down the stream and stopped in the Sankurru at the-
landing-place of the Bena-Lussambo. He had proceeded
to about fifteen kilometres north of the place where
Pogge and I had passed the Lubi, whose waters are
reddish -brown. Wolf says much in praise of the luxu-
riant tropical vegetation of its banks, on which thickets,
of palm-trees, impenetrable jungles of pine-apples, and
suo-ar plantations alternate with primaeval forests.

Wolf made friends with Ilunga, the chief of the
Lussambo, and bought a number of valuable objects

for a collection, which
I found a subsequent
opportunity of complet-
ing at the same place.
Wood-carving may be
considered as a special
branch of industry of

THE LUKENJA— LOIIAMI

ARTICLES MANUFACTURED BY THE LUSSAMBO

A NEW BIVEB 51

this tribe : driiikiiig-liorns fashioned after the liorn of
the buffalo, goblets of great variety of shape, evincing
much taste, beautiful spear-handles, and a series of
articles variously ornamented, were to be found here.
A large milky white pearl was mostly in request.

Keeping along the right bank, which was covered
with thickets of the Raphia vinifera, or rattan. Wolf on
March 9 discovered the mouth of a river whose water
was of a more decided yellow than that of the Sankurru,
and whose breadth was about 100 metres. The natives
called it Lukenja, a word that with the Bassongo tribes
evidently means ' river,' as in their country we know
several water-courses of that name. The banks rose
to a height of 200 metres, and were richly wooded.
Natives were nowhere to be seen ; only twice were some
discovered on trees, but they timidly fled when they were
approached. For three days the journey was continued,
until some warriors on the right bank, who called them-
selves Basselle-Kungo, and named the river Laethshu,
could be questioned. The left bank, they supposed,
was inhabited by the Batetela, the western branch of
a large tril^e, the eastern members of which I once met
near the Middle Lomami. The people, by their stu-
pidity, presented a great contrast to the natives we had
hitherto seen ; it made a strange impression to hear their
' Yeeh, yeeh,' as an expression of surprise. The popu-
lation was scanty, but game was plentiful and very
bold. The hippopotami were feeding on the banks in
broad daylight.

The river soon expanded to 150 metres in breadth.
The banks became flat, now and then boggy, and

E 2

52 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

thickets stretcliiiig far into the water made it a daily
difficulty for us to land to cut firewood. Not having
been able to buy provisions in these dreary parts for five
days, we began to feel hungry. Wolf himself had for
some days been living on some mouldy beans. The
expeditions he undertook on an empty stomach, in order
to remedy this want by killing some game, remained
without success.

Until now I have passed over Wolf's complaints
about the condition of his vessel ; some damage and some
repair have been mentioned daily, and much has been
said in praise of the gunsmith Schneider, who always
managed to find out some ingenious remedy. At last,
on March 15, Wolf found some natives to communicate
with, and it was not any too soon, for the engine and
the empty stomachs of the crew were sadly in want of
restoratives. The natives called themselves Bena-Yehka,
and the name of the river was — ' Lomami ! ' One
may imagine how joyfully surprised Wolf felt at this
news. He thought he had discovered that the Lomami,
which I in 1882 had crossed with Pogge, as Cameron
had done before, in taking a turn across the west, fell
here into the Sankurru and considerably lengthened the
navigable water-line from Stanley Pool to the east.

Since then, further explorations of this Lomami
have been undertaken, and have proved that close above
the place reached by Wolf the river began rapidly to
narrow. At the same time a steamer had gone up
another Lomami — which in 1° N. falls into the Lualaba
— and proceeded so far that, since then, it has again
been a point of dispute whether the Lomami which I

HUTS OF THE BENA-YEHKA

crossed in 1882 is the upper course of the latter or of
the river navioated bv Wolf.

One of my companions on my last journey, Lieutenant
Le Marinel, whose acquaintance the reader will be
making in the course of this narrative, is just now en-
gaged in endeavouring to clear up this matter.

The Bena-Yehka did not belong to the Batetela, who
are notorious everywhere for their fierceness ; they "\rere

HUTS OF THE BEXA-YEHKA

peaceable and quite inclined to trade. Their huts,
shaped like a gable house, and constructed of bark
and palm ribs, were neat and cleanly. They had their
hair dressed in a band, like a thick black caterpillar,
reaching from the forehead down to the back ; the sides
of the skull were not only shaved, but tattooed in con-
centric rings reaching very nearly to the cheek-bone and
the eye.

54 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

The Yelika are great hunters, whicli is testified, by
their various weapons, the most striking of which are
arrows, used like harpoons.

The river was in possession of the inhabitants of
the right bank, the Balunbangando, with their chief Oto ;:
they are cannibals belonging to the Bankuto, and also to
the Bassongo-Mino. All the countries I know between
the Lomami and Lualaba are inhabited throughout by
cannibals ; they will, however, rarely confess to being
partial to human flesh ; generally they deny this, and
accuse of this vice the tribe with whom they are at en-
mity. Wolf gave Oto an old hat ; in return he, highly
delighted, brought him a kid, fowls, some manioc,
and palm-wine.

Until the 19tli Wolf remained here. His crew lived
on yam, the chief food of the Yehka ; then provisions
were bought, and the engine was repaired as well as
could be under the circumstances. The condition of the
' En Avant ' was such as to make it impossible to go up
the river any farther. The axle-tree of the wheels was
broken, though fortunately in an oblique direction.
Schneider now bored through the axle-tree perpen-
dicularly, and put in rivets made of iron gun-barrels.
This slight repair only permitted the engine to work
slowly, whicli was not suflicient for sailing against the
strong current of the Lomami. Heavy at heart. Wolf
began sailing down. He had been in hopes of explor-
ing the Lomami to where Pogge and I had crossed it
four years ago. We had arrived at the decision that
Lomami, the name which it retains during the greater
part of its course, must be the right name for this river.

ON GEOGBAPHY 55

Once back on the Sankurrn, wliicli below the
point where it receives the Lomami has a breadth of
nearly 2,000 metres, the ' En Avant ' had to take shelter
under an island, not being equal to coping with the water
that, raised by a storm of rain against the current, was
moving in high and surging waves.

For several days Wolf remained with a chief named
Kole, who was very communicative and made many
geographical disclosures which, being noted down in
technical words unintelligible to me, I can only repeat
incompletely. This ' Fumo ' — term for chief — Kole had
often been mentioned by our Bashilange. He was
•commercially connected with the southern Baluba and
knew the way to the Lulua well. He was likewise able
to give an account of the aborigines, the so-called
pigmies, whom he called Babecki, while the Baluba had
•designated them as Batua. On being questioned by
some Bankutu present, he reported about the north as
follows ; For many days' journey you would meet only
the Bassongo-Mino, whose tribes from the south up-
wards rank as Bajaia, Botecka, Ndongo, Nkole, Bayenga,
Dongenfuro, Bondo, Lokoddi, Babenge, Bonshina, Don-
gosoro, Ikangala Joshomo, Bakundu, Banbangala, and
Barumbe. As it is scarcely likely that these Bangala are
identical with those north of the Congo, we come upon
this name here for the third time. The valley of
Xassanga, on the Upper Quango, is inhabited by the
Bangala ; we find them as part of the Bassongo-Mino,
and on the confluence of the Mubangi and the Con^o.

On March 22 I found in Wolf's diary, 'Very ex-
cellent palm-wine. Long live the Emperor ! '

56 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

On the 2 5 til Wolf re-entered the Cassai, and now
they began to devote themselves to the repair of the
engine, if only to be able to sail slowly against the
current of the Cassai, which fortunately was not strong.
On April 1 they reached the mouth of the Lulua, and
on the 4th the Luebo station, where the 'En Avant'
was joyfull}^ welcomed after a four months' absence.
On this very day provisions had arrived which Bugslag
had sent from Luluaburg, such as goats, sheep, salt
pork, rice, bananas, peanut-oil, onions, &c., so that the
return might be properly celebrated. The exhausted
' En Avant ' was unloaded, the collections were arranged,
and the boat was repaired as well as could be ; so that
Wolf, impelled by the spirit of investigation habitual to
him, was enabled to leave the station once more. So
he sailed down the Lulua and up the Cassai to find out
how far up from the mouth of the Lulua the latter was
navigable.

On the morning of AjDril 12, when he had scarcely
left the Lulua, the axle-tree of the boat broke for the
second time, but this was such a hopeless case that
Wolf declared himself unable to repair it with the tools
he had at hand. Wolf let the boat drift downward, and
towed himself ashore close above the mouth of the Lulua.
Scarcely had he been lying at anchor for some hours,,
after having undertaken a short expedition into the
primasval forest, when he was entreated by some people
who had followed him to come back quickly, as a boat
was in sight.

Almost the moment Wolf came to the river side I laid
the ' Peace ' alongside of the ' En Avant,' and a minute

AT THE MOUTH OF THE LULU A 57

later embraced my friend, who was as much delighted
and surprised as I was. He briefly told me how he had
carried out my orders given him at parting, and what he
had done respecting the exploration of the river system,
so promising for the future of these countries.

It is greatly to be regretted that the death of Wolf,
which took jDlace at Dahomey, prevented him from de-
tailing his work himself. The diaries at my disposal
give a number of short notes, containino- a series of
meteorological observations which I am unal;)le to de-
cipher.

For all that, I am convinced that the reproduction
of the diaries which end here shows more practical
knowledge than it would if one uninitiated, wlio knows
neither people nor country as I do, had undertaken the
task. My work ' Im Innern Afrikas ' and this chapter
will give the reader an idea of the energy, the continual
exertion, the courage, and intimate knowledge that Dr.
Wolf has employed in working for his illustrious em-
ployer, the King of the Belgians, for the promotion of
science and civilisation in the Dark Continent. There
are few who knew as I did the devotion, the noble dis-
position of the deceased, and who are for this reason able
to sympathise with me on his loss. Everyone, from
whatever motive it may be, will bear W^olf in kind re-
membrance.

BETWEEN LUEBO AND LULUABUKG

CHAPTEE III

DISCOVERING WISSMANN FALL AXD AVOEK AT THE STATION

Progress of Liiebo station — Patrol on the Muieau — Encountering faithful
Bngslag — Liiluabnrg, a centre of civilisation— Plantations — The breed-
ing of cattle — Meteorological observations — With Kalamba — Satiir-
nino de Machado — Hostile Chipulnmba — Punishment of some of our
soldiers — Up the Cassai with Wolf— An uninhabited wilderness — Tor-
menting bees — Bars in the river — Wissmann Fall — Wild boars —
Falling trees — Missed the ' Stanley ' — At the station — Separation from
W^olf — Punishment of a chief — Balundu — Ambassadors — Settling
political difficulties at Lubuku — Distribution of the Star-Flag— My
influence over the Bashilange — Kalamba's visit — Spectacle snake.

Let us return to April 12, and to tlie confluence of the
Lulua and the Cassai, where, on returning from the
coast, I met my friend and companion AYolf after six
months' separation.

We sat discussing our adventures and making plans

LUEBO STATION 59

for the future till late at iiiglit, under tlie far-overhanging
foliage of the huge trees of the shore, on the edge of the
slope, where the enormous yellow floods of the Cassai
were roUino- alonoj at our feet. We were allowed but a
short rest ; then we took Wolf on board the ' Peace ' to
steam up the Lulua to Luebo station, while the com-
mander of the ' En Avant,' Captain Van der Felsen, and
the gunsmith Schneider, with some of the crew, remained
in the boat, which had for the present become unservice-
able. In honour of this meeting I had a good many
European provisions, especially liquids, in readiness for
a grand banquet, the consequences of which not even
the fresh breeze on the Lulua could undo.

After sailins^ round some turns of the Lulua we came
in sight of Luebo station.^

From the distance we noticed an open space on the
water side, w^liich was very striking to the eye after
having for five days seen nothing but thick, dark forest,
which now during the rainy season reached down to
the water's edge and bordered the river all along.

My light artillery, a present of Mr. Friedrich Krupp's,
was placed on the shore on a kind of bastion at the ex-
treme end of the clearing, on a neck of land formed by
the confluence of the Luebo and the Lulua, to ward off
any hostile approach by water. Four structures built
of palisades, neatly lined with clay, and with far-over-
hanging grass-covered roofs, filled up the end of the
open space. Towards the land they were protected
from any attack by a wall of palisades leading from the

' Vide Illustration.

60 THE 0 UGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

Luebo to the Lulua. About 100 metres of ground was-
bare, with a dark wall of prima3val forest towering
behind.

A great commotion arose at the station on the
appearance of our steamer. Soldiers, clad in pure
white, came with their arms ready for parade. On
our approaching the place, which presented a striking
appearance by its agreeable change of scene after so
gloomy a surrounding, a European, Lieutenant Bateman,
came to salute us at the river side. He had been ap-
pointed to my expedition by the Congo State, and was
at present commanding officer of the place. Then we
landed, and after hearing the favourable report about
the state of affiiirs we assembled in a mushroom-shaped
pavilion on the bastion to partake of a refreshing glass
of palm- wine.

There was another European present, one Mr.
Saturnino, a Portuguese merchant, whom I have men-
tioned in my book of travels ' Unter deutscher Elagge
querdurch Afrika.' Following my expedition to Lubuku,
he had tried his fortune with the Bakuba and the Bakete,
and was greatly satisfied with his purchases of ivory.

After a close inspection of the station, where the
dwelling-house was formed of palings — the planning
of which gave evidence of practical knowledge and great
diliiience — I took drawings of the Lulua and the Luebo
to complete my observations of them [vide Appendix),
and visited the surrounding districts of the Bakete and
the Bashilange to convince m3'self that the station, the
provisioning of which for the present depended on pur-
chases, was on a very good footing with the surrounding

MY START FOB LULUABUBG Gl

tribe. A few days afterwards the ' Peace ' returned,
taking Herr GreshofF and Herr von Nimptscli down
to Stanley Pool.

Mr. Grenfell, to whom I was greatly indebted for his
kind convoy, obligingly promised to pick up the ' En
Avant ' at the mouth of the Lulua and take her as far as
the Congo. He took with him a member of my expedi-
tion, the gunsmith Schneider, who was going home, and
who, during the whole time of his engagement, had dis-
tinguished himself by untiring activity and great skill
and courage.

The ' Peace ' runnim? ao-round some metres below
the station made us aware of the fact that some stones
in the Cassai made it expedient for us to approach the
station with caution. Fortunately the ' Peace ' got off
aefain without damao-e.

On the 22nd, after giving Lieutenant Bateman farther
directions for his work at the station, I started with
Wolf on my return journey to Luluaburg. We had
sent messenoers before us, who were to inform Busfslao-
of our coming, and to bring the oxen we rode on to
meet us. In every primaeval forest that I know of in the
African tropical countries there lives a large black gad-
fly, somewhat like our hornet, but not the tsetse fly,
which is fatal to cattle. In 1882 I had lost my last
bulls on the Tano'anvika throuo'h this insect.

After a six hours' fatiouino' march in the forest we
halted at the village of the Bena Kashia. This name
refers to the dispersion of the tribes of our Bashilange ;
the main body of the Kashia, being the greater part of
this tribe, the Baqua Kashia, live in the centre of the

62 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

whole people, close to Luluaburg, and east of them
lives another tribe of Bena Kasliia. Jealousy among
the chiefs' families was the usual reason for such dis-
persions.

Part of a large commercial caravan of the Kioque,
our old enemies, was present ; they were exceedingly
civil, for, since we had settled here, the time of their
predominancy over our Bashilange was over.

We travelled for several days, each day marching
from thirty to forty kilometres, and discovering several
districts whose inhabitants had refused to pay tribute
to Kalamba on his return from the Congo, and, in order
to avoid his wrath, they were forced to leave their
country. After leaving the primaeval forest we mostly
marched through savannahs of trees ; sometimes the
monotonous, undulating savannah was relieved by deep
ravines, which on their slopes showed magnificent dark
red-turreted formations of laterite.^

On the 28th we approached the river Muieau, where
from a distance we were greeted by a pretty clay house,
lying amongst gracefully arranged gardens, this beings
the residence of a permanent patrol that Wolf had
meanwhile established on the most important crossing
of this river. Three of my old veterans were here, the
representatives of our force and commanders of the
canoes. I was quite touched by the sincere delight
evinced by my old people, companions of my former
expedition, on recognising me. On the opposite side
three bulls, well saddled and bridled, were awaiting us

^ Vide lUustratiou.

AT LULUABUBG

to take us to Luluaburg next day. After crossing the
river next morning we mounted our bulls ; I took my
huge old steed that had carried me to Luluaburg two
years before. We were surprised to find a road of nearly
eight metres width running in a straight line to the east.
It turned out later that Bugslag had caused the foot-
paths round the station to be broadened, and had in-

LULUABUEG

structed those chiefs through whose ground the way
led how to build straight roads. He had succeeded, by
making those chiefs who did not provide broad paths
pay fines, in producing beautifully wide roads in all
directions about a day's journey beyond Luluaburg.

Towards noon we came in sight of the summit of
the hill, and soon rode up to the station amidst the re-
joicings of the crowd assembled from all the villages.

64 T HBO UGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Along the station hill the roads Avere lined with pleasant
avenues. Trees, that soon began to sprout, were planted
at three metres distance in the wall of palisades, thus
forming a shady circle round the station. It was like
coming home when, at the gates of the station, I shook
hands with my honest Bugslag. At the station, whose
chief buildings had already been finished when we left
to explore the Cassai, much had been done to give it a
home-like and cheerful appearance. Plantations had
l^een laid out everywhere, an entirely new dwelling-
house had been built very prettily and with great care,
a nice little garden was in front of it ; in short, a pleasant
sight met our eyes everywhere.

Messeno-ers hurried away to inform my friend Ka~
lamba and his sister Sangula of my return. This was
the third time that I had come to Lubuku unexpectedly,
to the country of my loyal Bashilange, to whom I owed
so much already. The first time of my coming here was
with Pogge in 1881. Being the first white men seen by
the Bashilange, our influence was very great. It was
with the assistance of these people only that we succeeded
in reaching the Lualaba ; whence, after separating from
Pogge, and supported by the Arabs, I proceeded to the
eastern coast. In the year 1884, coming from the west,
I returned to the Lubuku country, to ni}^ old friends
and travelling companions, and, as I had promised
them, I brought with me a great many white men.
Once more by the help of the Bashilange the exploration
of the Cassai w^as made possible, and this took them into
unknown countries for nearly a year. I then sailed
down the river towards the sea, and my black friends

PLANTATIONS 65

returned home with Wolf. Xow I came back once more,
and great were the rejoicings everywhere at Kabassu
Babu's return to his friends. I felt quite at home here,
recognising each face of the hundreds of negroes who
lived at the large village near the station ; every one
of those crowdino- around me was delighted at bein<J'
recof^nised.

In the evening, when we were sitting in the pretty
verandah of the dwelling-house, ornamented with hip-
popotamus skulls, antelope's horns, and rarities from the
desert, I learned that, in spite of the greatest economy,
Luluaburg was running short of provisions. With
great reluctance conscientious Bugslag had felt obliged
to send his treasures down to the Luebo, the buildino-
of which station had involved great expense. On the
Luebo, want in this respect was also beginning to be
felt, and I found myself in the disagreeable position of
having to inspect two stations with a large number of
people without the means of maintaining them. The
fruit of the plantations at Luluaburg was not yet ripe.
For this reason, therefore, I resolved to buy the most
indispensable provisions from the Portuguese merchant
Saturnine, and make these last until the ' Stanley,' with
the Belgian officers on board, should bring my new
supplies.

Next day we inspected the plantation. After the
first harvest Bugslag had sent many loads of rice down
to the Luebo. How astonished I was at finding well-
cultivated fields in places which I only remembered as
a wilderness ! The low land between the three brooks
winding along the station hill was covered with rice

C6 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

plantations that, in Bugslag's opinion, would easily
support Luluaburg and Luebo station for six months
— that is, up to the next harvest. Maize, millet, and
manioc, covering the gentle slopes of the station hill,
were thriving. As it had lately been very wet, there
was not much prospect of a good crop of pea-nuts. In
the three gardens which were laid out, each according
to the purpose it was meant for, on the slopes or in the
valley close to the station, a great deal of fruit and
ves^etables were bein^f cultivated, such as tomatoes,
cucumbers, carrots, cabbages, yams, beans, egg-fruits,
pine-apples, gimboas (foxtail, a very pleasant vegetable).
Bananas and melon trees bordered the roads every-
where, and other fruits, such as limes, &c., imported
from the Congo and Angola, were being grown, besides
tobacco.

The stock of cattle had greatly increased under
Bugslag's care, and they were in good condition con-
sidering the season. In countries where, after the rainy
season, the grass shoots up to a great height and thick-
ness, and thus becomes useless as food, circumstances,
in spite of the greatest care, are not favourable. They
manage to improve the grass by burning it, after which
the blades begin to sprout everywhere. The whole
of Africa is adapted for the breeding of cattle, except
perhaps in the districts haunted by the black hornet.
In the eastern part of the continent, where the rainy
season is shorter than in the western, the grass is more
soft and tender. In the west, great care should be taken
to obtain soft grass, which can only be managed by
burning ; this is done by lighting several fires while

THE BREEDING OF CATTLE 67

the grass is proportionalily tender, after wliieli the
young grass begins to shoot up everywhere. On those
pastures where large herds of cattle graze, the grass
is kept the right length, but the cattle should be put
in places where it has reached the length they prefer.
They should never be kept where a certain plant
most dangerous for cattle is found, as many travellers
have experienced, amongst them Pogge, who at very
short intervals lost nine bulls in consequence. It
is well to change the water frequently, unless some
larger water-course is near. During the night the
cattle should be put into high places, where a fresh
breeze will decrease the number of mosquitoes. It
is therefore advisable not to use a stable during the
night, but a pent-house, open at the sides, so that in
exposed places the draught may keep off the said insects.
The cattle will alwa^^s feed most in the morning and
evening ; they should therefore be put into shady places
during the hottest time of the (\.<i\. Our attempt at
keeping bulls at the Luebo station had been an entire
failure ; we had lost several in their flights and throuo-h
other causes, so that we had only three left.

The cows had increased with unfailing regularitv,
but had not as yet been trained for being milked ;
ninety-eight sheep and thirty goats were running wild
in the vicinity of the station during the day, and were
driven home in the evenino- after workinfj hours. It is
strange that the negroes do not keep cattle in droves
as we do ; but, for want of sliepherds' dogs, it would be
necessary to have as many people as head of cattle to
keep them together. The station was stocked with

F 2

G8 THE 0 UGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

numerous ducks, fowls, pigeons, j}arrots, and guinea-
fowls ; nor do I douljt that every other kind of poultry
would thrive here. For convenience' sake we had given
over a considerable breed of pigs to one of the neigh-
bouring chiefs.

Our little dogs had suffered most ; of the fifteen
imported, chiefly terriers and one fox terrier, only five
were alive. Some had been hunting in the long grass
or in the heat, or had fallen victims to snake-bite ;
two had l)een killed by leopards, one of the latter
having jumped over the palisades of the station.
Strangely enough, only the male dogs had succumbed
to diseases, while we had lost the females by accidents.
The survivors — one of which had been I'escued from
the claws of the leopard, though with se^-eral wounds ;
another, wdth a broken leg, had escaped from the clutches
of a wounded wild boar — had repeatedly mingled with
native dogs, and the result of this breed was regarded
as a very valuable present by the chiefs in all Lubuku.

The meteorological observations, I am sorry to say,
w^ere, through the wrong setting of some instruments, not
so complete as might be desired. The most surprising
result of these observations, and one which accounts for
the luxuriance of growth in the countries of Central
Africa, was, that there was not one month of the year
without rain. This is especially striking in the three
mouths, June, July, and August. There had been rain
three times in June, twice in July, and frequently in
August ; thouo-h of course, in the two first-named
months, this was not sufiicient to keep the plants from
scorching during the intense heat : there was a heavy
dew at the time which made up for it. In this way it is

KALAMBA 69

possible to reap maize tliree times, in some parts even
four times, millet tAvice or thrice, and rice twice.

After one day of rest we set out on a visit to Kalamba.
At the entrance of the village thousands of people were
assembled and posted on each side of the road, and
everywhere I was greeted with ' Moiio Kabassu Babu ! '
On both sides of the ' Kiota,' the market and meeting-
place, the men were sitting in long rows ; the hemp-
pipe was solemnly passing round amidst boisterous
couofhino- and the deafenino" noise of the whistles and
big drums. Twenty of my newly recruited soldiers
fired three salutes, wdiicli were greeted with vigorous
shooting by the surrounding natives. Then the dense
crowd of about 5,000 people opened, and amidst cheering
and clapping of hands old Kalamba, towering above
the multitude, approached with his sister Sangula. I
need not be ashamed of my deep emotion on greeting
with a hearty shake of the hand those tried friends, to
whom I owed so much. Endless inquiries w^ere made,
and the cheering all round was literally deafening. I
jumped on my saddle in order to be better seen, and on
ni}^ repeatedly crjdng ' Bantue ' with the utmost exertion
of my voice, so as to enforce silence, I soon stopped ilie
noise. I then gave a ' Moiio,' telling them that the sea
had restored my health, and that, led by a strong impulse,
I had now returned to my friends. Kalamba in reply said
how delighted he was to see his Kabassu Babu back once
more. His far-sounding ' To wola ' ( ' I have spoken ' )
was followed by firing of guns, beating of drums, and
cheering. After having thus celebrated the day, they got
ready for a grand dance. Accompanied by Kalamba,
his sister Sangula, and Kalamba-Moana, the successor

70 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

to the throne, I entered the chief's neat and pretty
house, which liad been erected during my absence. I
talked over with Kalamba all I purposed doing at
present, and he readily promised that, wherever I
desired to go, he would send his sons (subjects) with
me, even if he, being an old man, should be prevented
from undertaking long journeys.

Before riding back to the station I met Katende, the
chief of the Bashi Lamboa, whom a vear ao-o I had
defeated and taken prisoner, together with Kalamba.
He had come to pay tribute to the latter, and was com-
plaining of the extortionate demand. After a short in-
terview with Kalamba I arranged about the remaining
amount, and got leave for him to return home. Ee-
freshed by a cup of millet beer, I started on my home-
ward journey before dark with some fattened sheep, and
a goat born with three legs — all presents of Kalamba's.

On May 5 I started on a visit to the merchant
Saturnino, who was at the time living with Kapussu
Jimbundu, north of the Lulua, to buy provisions for
the station, and thence to march to Luebo station.
Wolf was to o'o from there straioht to Luluaburj? and
make preparations, as I proposed going with him in the
well-tested iron boat ' Paul Pogge ' to explore the Cassai
above the mouth of the Lulua. I crossed the Lulua close
to the station where, as on the Muieau, a permanent
patrol was stationed who only cultivated rice and sugar
for the station, the soil being exactly suitable for these
products. I passed many large villages as in a triumphal
procession, and spent the night at the village of Kapussu,
a chief who was a half-blood albino. His skin was

THE CHIPULUMBA 71

copper-coloured, though his hair was not hght as is the
case with the real albinos, while his hazel eyes shunned
the light as theirs do. Xext day I got on the wrong track,
and lost my way so completely that, until evening, I
marched across the fields. Only those who know the wild
growth of those countries, with the long stretches of
primasval forests bordering each of the frequent water-
courses, can have an idea of the fatiguing toil of such a
march. It was night when we reached a small village,
whose occupants conducted us next day to the Moansan-
gomma. This river I crossed on a float made of the ribs
of the Raphia vinifera^ sometimes ten metres in length,
and soon after reached the camp occupied by Saturnine
and his assistant Carvalho. In a short time I had con-
cluded the disagreeable negotiations with the two gentle-
men, who wanted to profit by my situation as much as
possible, and started on the 7th after a day's delay in
order to meet Wolf on the Luebo. For several days I
marched along the same road that Wolf had travelled
when I had sent him to the Bakuba Prince Luquengo.
The Bashilange of these parts, with whom we had
scarcely come in contact, were mostly Chipulumba — that
is, people who refused to smoke hemp or to reform
their wild martial habits. I also repeatedly met trading
Bakuba, who wanted to buy slaves and salt.

When I wished to cross the Lulua at the Bena-
Mbala's, and therefore called across to the island where
the people lived who were to ferry me over, they, Chipu-
lumba to the backbone, would not let me pass. Threats
and promises were of no avail, and I was forced to re-
ascend the slope, difiicult as it was for the bull to pass,

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

and try to cross the river farther up. Scarcely had I left
the shore Avhen I heard the report of a gun, and found
that one of the five soldiers who had accompanied me

CHIEILU FALL

had fired a shot amongst the insulting Chipulumba,
which gained him my serious disapproval.

On the 9tli I crossed the river from the Baqua-Kash
country, at a place where a small tributary, the Chirilu,

NABROW ESCAPE 73

rushes as a waterfall of six metres height into the Luliia.
In the middle of the stream my bull, whose head was
held by a man at the stern, came pushing against the
canoe so that it was not possible to steer. The bull
succeeded in putting one foot over the edge of the canoe
and made it capsize. As the two negroes who were
with me could swim, we gained the shore, swimming some
distance behind the bull. I did not much relish such
swimming expeditions, since in the same Lulua, at a
place where I used to bathe every day, a negro had
been seized by a crocodile five years before. This time
it seemed more risky than ever, as, just before, we
had observed several of these terrible reptiles. I may
mention here that the crocodile seems to assume its
exterior from its surroundings, which by Darwin has
been called ' mimicry.' On light sands I used to see
animals of a yellowish green, while on dark and boggy
ground they looked dark brown, and even crocodiles
lying on stones resemble the colour of their resting-2)lace.

I followed the Lulua downward, and, in order to get
to know the way, I always kept close to the river side,
though this obliged me to pass through uninterrupted
primaeval forests. These forests are inhabited by Ba-
shilange, who are short and thin, and remind one of
the dwarf-like Batua. As is mostly the case with the
inhabitants of primeval forests, they are marked by
shyness and reserve.

At eleven o'clock in the evening, in complete dark-
ness, I traversed the last forest and reached Luebo
station, where I found Wolf. Next day preparations
for the journey had to be made, sentences passed, and

74 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

punishments inflicted. One of our soldiers, known
throughout the country by their becoming uniform, had
been avaihnor himself of our influence to make extortions.
It appeared that our people, when sent on messages, had
been carrying off* goats, fowls, nay, even slaves, which
the}^ had possessed themselves of either by threats or by
force. As nothing would be more likely to injure our
influence than such proceedings, I adopted the severest
punishments. I despatched some natives with a hippo-
potamus whip, who were to carry out the punishment,
a sound thrashing, and to impart the reason for it to the
offended chiefs, who were to receive an indemnification
for their loss, which was to be deducted from the
offenders' pay.

After giving Mr, Bateman instructions in case the
' Stanlev ' should arrive durino- our absence, or our
return should be delayed longer than expected, we went
on board the iron boat ' Paul Pogge,' fitted out for a
month's journey, and took with us six Zanzibaris, three
Angola negroes, and one native, with whom we sailed
down the Lulua. On the mornim? of the 14th, after
an undisturbed nioht on sandbanks, we ao-ain found
ourselves on the slowly flowing Lulua, whose mouth we
reached by noon. \¥e then sailed up the Cassai, 1,000
metres wide, intersected by islands and sandbanks, on
one of which we encamped. While our men were pitch-
ing the tent, I found a large nest of eggs resembling
those of a plover, which, not being hatched, improved
our meal. Wolf, who had gone ashore in a boat to fetch
wood, also tried to get provisions, and fired at a flock
of geese, but, missing them, he might have laid us low

UNINHABITED WILDERNESS 75

instead of the geese, as tlie grains of shot were buzzing
about our ears.

On the 15th we proceeded up stream. The banks
were high, and covered with primasval forests ; in the
background we noticed closely wooded mountains, up
to a height of 100 metres. We had been informed by
PofTcfe that between the Lulua and the Cassai we should
for days see nothing but huge forests. The Cassai was
in the middle distinctly divided by a long row of sands.
On one of those stretches, about 2,000 metres long, we
found a deserted dog howling most piteously ; he had
evidently been left behind b}' a native who had fled from
us. On our approaching and attemj)ting to rescue him,
lie fled and suddenly |)lunged into the water, but had
floated sp far down that we did not notice whether lie
reached the shore or not.

The banks appeared to be uninhabited, as throughout
the day we saw no canoe, no human beings, no fish-
hooks, nor a road leading to the river ; nothing but
traces of buflliloes and elephants.

A most tormentinj? nuisance were some small stino'less
bees, that came with such persistency into our eyes, ears,
and nostrils as to keep us in incessant conflict with
them. It was literally impossible to eat, as they settled
in such numbers on each morsel which we were about to
put into our mouths, that we had soon to give up the
attempt.

On the left bank we noticed, on the morning of the
Ifith, four large canoes — those beautifully slender vessels
of the Lower Cassai which at first sight show they
were meant for longer expeditions than simply to cross

THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

THB CEOSS IN THE CASSAI

the river. We made a land-
ing-place, from which we found
three branching roads, on two
of wliich we sent patrols with
goods, and injunctions to ap-
proach the natives cautiously
and try to buy provisions.
They soon returned, accom-
panied by relatives of the
tribe of the Bashi-Bombo, bringing manioc flour, fowls,
and palm-wine. The Bombo — Bashi means the same
as Baqua, Bena, and Ba, i.e. people — with their mus-
cular, heavy bodies, the tattooed cuts on their sto-
machs and backs, resembled the Bakuba of the opposite
shore.

On continuing our journey, one of our Zanzibaris
turned out to have disappeared. He had been enjoying
too much palm-wine and had fallen asleep in the forest.
I had just got ready with five men to search for him,

THE CROSS IN THE CASSAI 77

when lie came reeling along, but was soon sobered by a
well-deserved thrasliino-.

The river widened up to 200 metres, and was on
each side mantled with primasval forests, without any
signs of human beings, besides a good many sands, and
not till evening did we come upon a thickly wooded
island. No pastures being near, we did not see any
hippopotami. The only living creatures were hosts of
parrots, small herds of monkeys, and a night-heron scared
from out of the shade of the trees. The Bashi-Bombo had
told us that we should soon make a large f^ill, above
which there would be the mouth of a river, most likely
of the Luvo.

On the 17th we saw oil-palm groves ever and anon
on the slopes of the high banks, now and then canoes,
and towards evening rubble-stones in the bends of
the river ; an unmistakable sign that we were nearinp-
difficulties as regards the navigation of the river. In
the evening, just before encamping, we halted near a
gigantic rock towering in the middle of the stream
like a huge sugar loaf. Our attempts to cut some
mark into it were thwarted by the brittleness of the
granite. On the surface of it there was the sign of a
cross, formed by two veins of quartz projecting from
the rock.

We then pitched our camp in a place trodden down
by hippopotami and elephants, in a prettily-shaded bay,
from which a brook was rushing down in small cascades.

We refreshed ourselves with a sweet caoutchouc
liana, the size of a large ball, and then began to prepare
our meal.

78 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

On the morning of the 18th, after rounding a bend,
we suddenly saw before us a bar of rock stretching
across the whole breadth of the river. It was so low
that the water overleaped it or forced its way through
gaps. Close below the right bank we succeeded in in-
citing our six rowers to the utmost exertion in pressing
through a channel. After rounding the next bend of
the river a strange picture presented itself to our eyes,
for which we had been prepared for the last twenty
minutes b}' a loudly roaring sound. The whole of the
huge river was rushing down eight metres deep into a
kind of wide-spreading lake.

The wall of rocks that forced the river to take such
a leap was crowned by four islands luxuriantly covered
with palms and pandanus, and dividing it into five
channels and five waterfalls. The one on the right side,
the father, as it were, was the largest, about sixty
metres broad ; while the others, the four children,
measured from ten to fifteen metres.^

This clear bright lake, surrounded by banks of dark
forests, the foarainf]^ wall of roarincf falls towerino; in
the background, together with islands rich in growth —
all this formed a very striking picture.

This, then, was the boundary of communication by
water : a channel system extending over many thousands
of sea miles, crossing Equatorial Africa from here to
the Falls of Father Congo below Stanley Pool ; up the
Congo to below Stanley Falls ; on the Sankurru and

^ The two waterfalls of the Cassai — about two days' journey farther
up — which I discovered in 1884 and called Pog^e Falls, are Mbimbi-
Mukash and Mbimbi-Mulume — i.e. Mbimbi, fall', Mukash, tvonian;
Mulume, mari.

WATEB-FALLS 79

Lomami in due easterly direction close to Nyangwe ;
from the Congo to the Mubangi and Welle of Schwein-
furth and Junker, and on the numerous little tribu-
taries.

We sailed up the right bank, as I wished to take
the boat across the fall in order to go up to Kikassa and
Pogge Fall, if possible, and thus to form a connection
between my former and my present travels. Arrived
at the top, however, we noticed some more rapids and
small cascades above the fall, and I therefore o-ave
up my plan. Wolf and I cut two large W's into the
huge stem of a gigantic tree of the prima3val forest that
grew off the fall close to the shore, which will easily
catch the traveller's eye. The neighbourhood of the
fall was enveloped in a cloud of foam, and everything
was shiny, damp, and covered with moss.

We now crossed over to the left bank, where we
kept in smooth water to close below the fall. A great
many remnants of smashed canoes were buried amono-
the sands in the shallow water. The shape of these
canoes was different from those we had seen before, not
slender and pointed on each side, but with rounded
stern. The inhabitants above the fall did not, it seems,
use their canoes for travelling, but simply for crossing-
the river and for fishing purposes.

A numl)er of women whom we found engao-ed in
fishing took flight before us. Contrar}^ to the habit
of the tribes we had seen before, they had dyed their
skin with a mixture of oil and red wood. A few
minutes after, five men armed with their bows and
arrows were seen approaching us cautiously. We at

80 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

once saw tliey belonged to a new tribe, judging from
their strange head-dress, painted skin, and figures much
slighter than those of the people we had seen on the
Cassai before. We succeeded in banishing the distrust
of the people, so that they came near us when their
number had increased to twenty. They called them-
selves Tupende, and belonged to the same tribe in whose
territory I had crossed the Cassai twice before. They
pretended not to know an3'thing of the mouth of the
Luvo, which I supposed to be near ; and they appeared
to be greatly astonished at my being acquainted with
the state of affairs up the stream, when talking of the
Chikapa and of Kikassa. They spoke of Pogge Falls, and
said that above the fall where our camp was pitched the
river was impassable for a long distance. They sold us
palm-wine and fish, and then we re-embarked and made
the ' Pogge ' carry us down the river. Before parting
with the beautiful sight of the falls, I accepted \yolf's
proposal to give them the name of ' Wissmann Fall.'
These two successive cataracts, formed by the largest
tributary of the Congo, are an emblem, as it were, of
\\\j working together with my late friend, the highly
respected traveller, Paul Pogge.

Some kilometres down the stream we were enticed
to land by a sort of crashing sound in the wood. Un-
definable short and grunting sounds keep even the
connoisseur of African game in doubt as to whether
the animals breaking through the thicket in a boggy
place are elephants, buffdoes, or boars. These three
inhabitants of the primeval forest have voices of great
similarity. We crept along, and I succeeded in killing

A BOAR HUNT

by a single shot a boar which was covering the re-
treat of a whole herd ; this was very welcome to us,
since we had been in want of meat for several days.
Even our Zanzibaris, who always pretended to be strict

A WELCOME 3IEAL

Mahometans, were by no means averse to eating the
prohibited meat. They thought that, when travelling,
such transgressions might be permitted.

The nocturnal repose of our camp was interrupted
by the tremendous noise of a falling tree. This is pre-

82 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

ceded by a repeated crashing sound, resembling that
of a badly fired salute : the falling giant either tears
the lianas that hold him up, or breaks through the sur-
rounding lower trees. Then follows a heavy groan-
incf fall, makincf the o-pound all round about vibrate ;
the huge trunk has broken down, its strong branches
shattered.

Havino- heard that there was an abundance of o-ame
in the neighbourhood, we went on a shooting expedition ;
but we were only able to ascertain that the district
abounded in elephants.

In the evening of the 19 th we pitched our camp
close to the mouth of the Lulua, and next morning
sailed up this river.

Some fishermen told us that, an hour before, the same
iron canoe that had taken back the Baluba had sailed
up the stream. The news greatly vexed us, for this
hour's loss of time compelled us to sail all the way to
the station against the current ; while in this boat,
evident^ the ' Stanley,' we might have easily reached
the Luebo the same day, if only a dense fog had not
prevented our seeing the steamer. Our journey from
the mouth of the Lulua up to Wissmann Fall had taken
us twent3-two and a half hours' fatiguing rowing, and
the down journey only eight hours. We estimated the
distance at about fifty-eight sea miles.

Wolf was suffering from very painful ulcers, hence
the narrow and uncomfortable seats in the boat made
him exceedingly tired. The lancing of them, which
I did by making a cruciform incision with a sharp
pocket-knife, was naturally most painful.

AT THE STATION 83

The current of the Lulua had unfortunately greatly
increased, and so we did not reach the station till the
22nd. The ' Stanley ' was moored alongside of the bank,
and the station was swarming with Europeans. Among
those who had arrived were Captain De Macar and
Lieutenant Le Marinel, two officers sent from the Consfo
State to take charge of Luluaburg station ; a Swedish
Professor (Von Schwerin) ; Mr, Anderson, the captain
of the ' Stanley,' also a Swede ; his mate, De Latte, a
Frenchman ; the engineer, a Scotchman of the name of
Walker : and Herr Stehlmann, from Luxemburof.

The ' Stanley 'had brought my goods, which enabled
me to return to Mr. Saturnino some of the articles that I
had bought at much too high a price. The assistant of
Saturnino, Mr. Carvalho, had settled near Luebo station,
and was engaged in building canoes in order to sail
clown the Cassai with Saturnino and the remainder of
his goods, and also, encouraged by our statements, to
buy ivory on the way.

As the ' Stanley ' was only staying for a few days,
and would then take Wolf down to the coast, I charged
him to prepare an account of our last journeys, since,
as I was on the point of going towards the East, this
would perhaps for some years be my last opportunity for
communication with Europe.

Wolf's furlough had nearly expired, and, although
his strong constitution had successfully resisted the
influence of malaria, he had been suffering much lately
from nervous headaches, toothache, and continual ulcers,
for which reason a change would be of o-reat benefit
to him.

a 2

84 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

Since Wolf knew that Germany was on the point of
taking her place among the colonial powers, he pro-
posed to remain in Germany only for the time that he
needed for the arrangement of our mutual work, and
then to place his experience ' in Africanis ' at the dis-
posal of his country. How he eventually carried out
his plan is well known.

On May 28 the day of separation had come, and in
parting I pressed the hand of my friend, the partner of
so many dangers and fatigues. I felt almost deserted
when I saw the ' Stanley ' turn the last wooded corner.
Wolf was the last of my officers with whom I had three
years ago set foot on this continent.

My next care was to take my goods and the articles
belonging to the gentlemen under my command to
Luluaburg. I therefore sent messengers to Kalamba
to ask for 200 men for this purpose. Kalamba sent the
peo]3le as soon as possible, so that on June 6 the loads,
accompanied by the officers, were able to follow. We
had only to walk through the girdle of the primaeval
forest, then we met the bulls sent by Bugslag, whose
efficiency I had formerly had occasion to test — an effi-
ciency which greatly satisfied and surprised the Belgians.

I received a very tedious wound in my right hand
when teaching my bull to leap. A deep, narrow chasm
which I could not leap, the animal not being broken in,
induced me to drive him before me by a rope to
which a carbine hook was fastened. As the bull
refused to leap, I urged him on, but I was careless
enough not to let go my hold of the rope when he
leapt. The carbine hook opened in my hand and

PUNISHMENT OF A CHIEF 85

inflicted a deep wound. Fortunately, the sharp end of
the hook did not touch a nerve.

The patrol on the Muieau reported that the neigh-
bouring chief Kassange had lately ill-treated one of my
soldiers when at his village on a commission of Bugslag's.
I despatched ,three men to the village to fetch the chief,
who at first refused to come, but was afterwards brought
to me in fetters. I sentenced Kassange to the payment of
a strong beautiful bull, which he had lately bought from
a Kioque caravan, and which, together with those that
Kalamba gave us later, completed the number necessary
for my journey.

At Luluaburg, which we reached in the evening, Bug-
slag was awaiting us with a grand meal in the verandah.
Eoast ducks, pickled pork, cucumber salad, and other
dainties rare in Central Africa, greatly astonished our
new comrades.

During my last stay at Luluaburg a Balungu cara-
van had arrived from the well-known chief Kassongo
Chiniama, who lived north of the Muata-Jamwo of
Lunda. The Balungu knew of a white man who, coming
from the north, had years ago passed near their village.
This could have been no other than Lieutenant
Cameron.

My prospect for the future depended upon the
arrival of my old interpreter, Germano, whom, before
starting to explore the Cassai, I had sent to the coast to
buy provisions at Malange for the remaining balance of
my credit. Unless something had happened, he ought
to have been back long ago. Wliat provisions the
* Stanley' had brought from the Congo would just

86 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

suffice to keep the station for six months, probably until
communication with the Congo should be opened again.
No tidings having arrived from Germano, whom I had
directed to send messengers on before to report his
starting from Malange, I presumed that months would
elapse before his return. I therefore resolved to visit
Kassongo Chiniama in the Balungu country, to get
certain information about the upper river system of the
Lubilash Sankurru, of which the most contradictory
statements existed. At the same time I wanted to find
out the tribes between the Bashilange and the Lunda.

Immediately after the arrival of Germano I pro-
posed to leave Luluaburg and, according to orders, go
towards the east to explore the upper course of the
Lualaba. Meanwhile, I intended to initiate the two
Belgian officers into the affairs of the country, so as to
give Luluaburg and Luebo station definitely into their
charge. I hoped to have, by that time, so arranged
political affairs that the new commanders w^ould in
future only have to negotiate with Kalamba, the upper
chief dependent on them.

In Lubuku, the country of the hemp-smoking
Bashilange, my tactics had always been to keep the
natives separated into two parties, so as in case of need
to lead one against the other. I had made Kalamba and
Chingenge chiefs of the two parties. Experience had
taught me that these tactics, which always made the
management of the natives difficult, were necessary no
longer. This had been made evident to me during
the two long journeys with the chief of the Lubuku
Bashilange, so that I resolved upon a single control of

ABRANGEMENT OF POLITICAL AFFAIRS 87

the natives. There could naturally be no doubt as to
who was to be the chief dependent on me or my
successor. Kalamba was the mightiest, the most re-
spected, and, above all, the most devoted of all the
princes of Lubuku. His sister, Sangula Meta, the high-
priestess of the Eiamba worship, who had great influence
over her brother, was even more devoted to me and
to us all than he was. Both brother and sister had
given so many proofs of their trustworthiness and affec-
tion— virtues so rarely found among negroes — that I
could not but banish all scruples about Kalamba's faith-
fulness. Added to this, Kalamba's eldest son, his suc-
cessor, Kalamba Moana, who was much more intelligent
than his father, seemed to be equally trustworth}'.
During his father's absence he had in every respect
behaved in a most praiseworthy manner to Bugslag.

As I considered Luluaburo- and its surroundino-
Bashilange as the centre whence the Congo State should
undertake the further exploration and civilisation of its
southern countries, and as the easiest and cheapest way
to this object was to have one agent only — to superintend
and direct from one station — I now began, in the imme-
diate circuit of the station, in the friendly country — i.e.
Lubuku — to make the greater chiefs, the eldest members
of a family called Baqua or Bena, responsible masters of
the districts allotted to them, so that the numerous
would-be independent seniors of the villages might
easily be managed. So I made the chiefs of the Baqua
Chirimba, Baqua Kambulu, Bena Kussu, Bena Chitari,
&c. — to each of which belonged from five to fifteen
villao'es — real masters of their district. I intended

88 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

to extend my authority over fifty of such faniihes. Each
of the chiefs was to have a star flai?, and all these flasfs
were to be placed under the large union flag of
Kalamba's. The latter, to whom a certain, not too
large, tribute [mulambo) was to be paid by the chiefs
only, was to engage himself always to supply warriors
for any chance campaign, conductors for a journey,
labourers for keeping the roads clear, &c. He was to
provide sufficient means for passing to and fro on the
river crossings, to induce the population to grow rice, and
to carry out different other projects to which I shall
refer later.

In order to inform the fifty family chiefs, as I am
now going to call them, a number of patrols set out, with
the intention of branching off" in all directions. Escorting
each was one of my veterans from the coast, accompanied
by four or five of the more important of Kalamba's
warriors. The chiefs were summoned to the station, and,
in African fashion, they were to bring presents according
to the wealth of their tribe, whilst at Luluaburg they
were to receive flags and a proper chieftain's suit. One
may imagine what excitement this message caused
among the active and talkative Bashilange.

Two days after the departure of the patrol the
summoned chiefs appeared, mostly witJiout grand
suites. One brought four sheep or goats, another a
small elephant's tusk, a third a small boar, that with
the greatest difficulty was led by twelve men, &c.
Each of them had scruples that were to be removed,
petitions, if possible, to be listened to, grievances about
under-chiefs to be redressed, and, finally, requests of

MY SETTLING DIFFICULTIES 89

various kinds. Each one returned proudly with un-
furled star flag (the new ensign of the Congo State),
dressed in glaring garments, quite ready to be a staff in
the alliance of lictors that Kalamba was now to com-
mand as a life-guardsman of the new state.

Only three chiefs refused to come, and they were
written on the blackboard, in order to be forced into
submission as soon as time permitted : this had to be
done, for the sake of example.

During this time the station was like a beehive.
Troops of natives came and went uninterruptedly ;
messengers were despatched with threats or promises ;
the chiefs gloried in appearing with as many village
seniors as possible. Whenever any irregularities hap-
pened near the station I went myself to the places in
question, as, for instance, when I went to Kongolo Mosh,
who owned large villages north of the station beyond
the Lulua.

This indolent chief, a most inveterate hemjD-smoker,
possessed no authority over his village seniors, and
difficulties had arisen in the station when it was neces-
sary to procure labourers or carriers ; in consequence,
I had ordered all the seniors of the villao-es belono^inof
to Kongolo to come to the chief place, had listened to
their complaints, and then compelled them to make the
sign of submission to their upper chief, which is to rub
their heads and chests with sand, and, as a mark of
pardon and peace, to give him Pemba, a ceremony in
which the elder (called father in African) has to make
a white mark with chalk on the forehead and chest of
the younger (son).

90 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

One single old Cliipulumba, who would not hear' of
any peaceful proceedings on the part of the younger
generation, firmly refused to submit, and I had no choice
but to make him prisoner and take him back to the
station. I declared w^ar at once ao-ainst one of the chiefs
who would not obey the summons to Luluaburg, as he
could be reached in a daj-'s march. This sufficed ; he
first sent ten goats as a present, and then came himself.
Other subjects of one of the greatest princes, Chilunga
Messo, were brought captive to the station, and kept
confined till they submitted. These days, so exciting
for Lubuku, made it evident to us how ambitious were
these Bashilange, and how jealously they demanded the
respect due to them.

The reader will be astonished to learn with what
forces we undertook the subjugation of a people number-
ing man}' thousands. The strength of my troops at
Luluaburg was from twenty to thirty men. They were
mostly inhabitants of the coast, and almost exclusively
men who had accompanied me on long journeys — the
most distinguished of the many hundreds of carriers
in my service. The soldiers wore a red fez, a white
blouse, a white band round their hips, a sword, a belt
with a cartridge-box, and a carbine. By summoning
about sixty coasters living with the natives round the
station, especially people of the warlike tribe of the
Ginga, I was able to raise the troops to nearly 100,
and should have had, of course, part of the natives on
my side. My greatest help was nevertheless the trust
which the Bashilange placed in me after a four years*
acquaintance, a trust that will seem extraordinary even

GEBMANO'S DELAY 91

to those best acquainted with the negro, and which can
be accounted for only by the unusual intelligence of
the Bashilange. I am not now entering upon a close
examination of this advantage, as I have already done
this in my former works.

On June 21 Kalamba arrived at the station with his
sister, his son, all his grandees, and a suite of about
500 warriors. He brought a present of fourteen sheep,
and resigned to me some people who were guilty of
crimes and offences, whose punishment he thought
I should claim as m}^ right. I sent the criminals
in fetters to the Luebo to work, but asked Kalamba to
punish the offences himself, after explaining to him the
way in which white men deal with transgressions.

I made an ao-reement with Kalamba that I should
give the chiefs of Lubuku time to arrange matters within
their sphere, while I would visit Kassongo Chiniama on
the Lubilash ; and that at a great meeting I should
place all the chiefs under his command ; and that if
Germano, as I hoped, should have arrived meanwhile,
I should set out for my long journey. Some days before,
a letter had come from Germano, through some Kioques,
in which he reported that on the way to the coast he had
lost thirty men, a third of his caravan, from small-pox,
which had made him prolong his journey to four months.
From fear of small-pox, wdiich was known to rage in
the interior, on the way to the Lulua, few carriers were
to be had at Angola, and he would not be able to start
before May. So I could not expect him till August.

Kalamba Moana was to accompany me on my
journey to the Balungu ; and while he was making pre-

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

parations and collecting followers, my officers and I pre-
pared ourselves for our future business at the now quiet
station. Captain De Macar, who was to accompany
me to the Balungu, was to take charge of the station

A DISAGKEEABLE SDEPRISE

later on, after my final departure ; while Le Marinel
was to go with me on the long journey to the East,
whither I was taking the Bashilange, in order that he
might eventually take them back to their country.

ON SNAKES 93

The two gentlemen were engaged in preparing for their
future duties ; they studied languages and made meteoro-
logical observations at the station, which I had taken
pains to make possible again by repairing several instru-
ments.

Besides the usual work at the station, we were
much engaged in the building of bridges, which pre-
sented many difficulties on account of the frequently
swollen water-courses. We could soon pass every
stream in the course of a day's journey on bridges, and
even when in the saddle ; only on the Lulua was in-
tercourse carried on in a number of larg-e canoes.
In building a bridge we made use of palm-stems as
stretchers, as they were so long and firm, and could
easily be cut near the rivers.

One day I came upon some labourers who were in the
act of cutting the top off a felled palm-tree. I wanted
to teach one of them, who showed himself clumsy in
handling his axe, how to use it, by taking it myself
and striking several blows. At the third blow the
bystanders uttered a cry of warning, and at the same
moment two large dark snakes came darting out of the
top of the tree, but fortunately rushed past me into
the thicket. I had, it appeared, cut off the extreme
end of the tail of one, and part of the back of the
other, to which may be ascribed the lucky cirumstance
that the reptiles did not bite me. As far as I could
make out, they were spectacle-snakes (Haja-Haje).
These and the puff" adder are doubtless the most
venomous and dangerous of all African snakes.

94 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

CHAPTEE IV

EXPEDITIOX TO THE UPPER EIVER BASIN OF THE
SANKUREU LUBILASH

Collecting the escort for the journey — A good shot — A terrier trying to
attack a hippopotaraus — Plundering by my men — ^olian bells — The
savage Balimgu — Put on the wrong track — The Kanjoka — Dancing
women — Boundary of the piu'e Baluba — Threats — Dense population —
On the Bushi Maji — Insolence of the natives — War — Effect of the
report of a gun— Treacherous Baluba — Falsehoods of the Balungu —
Eesultless negotiations — Warlike expedition to punish our insolent
enemies — A hundred prisoners and a large booty — Want of ammuni-
tion—My resolve to return — The inhospitable Baluba country — A
dangerous retreat — Fair — Bad state of health — At Luluaburg — Con-
flacfration — Le Marinel's dangerous illness.

On June 26 I marclied from our village with Captain
De Macar, twenty coasters, and fifteen Basliilange, in
order to pick up natives, who were to accompany us to
the Balungu at Kalamba's and farther on the road.
The first day we stayed with Kalamba, where w^e were
joined by Kalamba Moana, with about 100 men. The
notorious Kioque chief, Mona Ngana Mukanjanga, who
before Pogge's and my coming had brought the first
firearms to Lubuku, had arrived with a caravan. After
our first journey this chief had justly apprehended that
we should lessen his influence, and had accordingly
sworn hostility to us. He had repeatedly tried to in-
fluence Kalamba a2;ainst us, and threatened to drive

CHINGENGE'S PBESENTS

us back with Kioques as plentiful as ' grass ' in the savan-
nah. Now Kalamba told me smilingly that the great
Mukanjanga had, for fear of me, lied to the primseval
forest.

In our march we stopped at every village, to pick up
five men at one, ten or more at another, and so on. Our

CAPTAIN DE MACAE

reception was a pacific one throughout, and we had so
many presents given us at every place that we were
able to live in princely style. Chingenge, twenty-five of
whose warriors joined us, brought four sheep, a goat, a
pig, a duck, a parrot, pine-apples, bananas, tomatoes,
onions, and millet beer. He, being my oldest friend, was
ready as usual ; in man}^ res|)ects he would have been

THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

more qualified to be
the upper chief of Lu-
buku, but his election
might have been ob-
jected to by too many
chiefs ; for, being more
energetic than Kalam-
ba, he had had many
disputes and many a
fight with most of the
grandees of Lubuku. For this reason, therefore, much
as I regretted it, he had to subject himself to Kalamba.
I, however, purposely ranked him as Kalamba's first
vassal.

From this point I turned to the south to visit Prince
Katende, of the Bashilamboa. Here also we were most
kindly welcomed : they had forgotten that a year before,

LULUMBA FALL

INSOLENT CHIPULU2IBA 97

in a war with tlie Basliilamboa, I had been obhged to
iDurn their villages. The Bashilamboa, who with their
chief Katende had refused to acknowledge Kalamba as
their superior, had gone to the Lulua and had settled
in obscure Chipulumba villages. I was made aware of
their obstinacy the evening after my arrival at Katende's.
I had gone down to the river with De Macar to hunt
hippopotami, when I met a canoe, which I hailed and
requested its occupants to take me to an island from
whence the hunt would be facilitated. They, however,
whom Katende's men called Chipulumba, refused to oblige
me, and rowed to the opposite shore, from whence they
mocked me with the name of Toka-Toka,^ requesting me
to come over to them to fetch the canoe, or to show them
how far my fire-arms would carry. In compliance with
this request, I aimed at the bow of the canoe, which they
had tied to a tree, and my shot cut the palm rope by which
it was fastened, so that, caught by the current, it floated
downward. Believing that I had intended this result,
they fled, amazed at the sure aim of my weapon. At this
place the Lulua was 200 metres broad. I then visited
the magnificent Lulumba Fall, which Pogge had dis-
covered four years before and had erroneously called
Kangonde Fall. Before crossing the Cassai I had here
once shot a hippopotamus that, roaring and tossing, had
approached my canoe. At the time I had one of our
terriers with me; after the shot the little creature
jumped overboard and swam to the place where the
hippopotamus had appeared. The mortally wounded
monster came twice to the surface ; the last time, the

' Albino.

THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

terrier, on the point of at-
tacking, was so near liim
that the water, splashed
by the foot of the hippo-
potamus, dashed over his
assailant. The terrier,
however, did not give
in, and when his prey was
no lonofer visible he swam
round and round, barking
with excitement; nay, he
even tried to reach the
hippopotamus by putting
his head under water.

Although European
dogs easily lose their incli-
nation to hunt in Equato-

A HEROIC TEEEIEU

THE BENA JIONGA 99

rial Africa, my experience has taught me that the terrier
belongs to the race that can best resist the climate.
There is no game that a good terrier will not attack.
I am sorry to say that it was just the clauntlessness of
the little heroes that made us lose them.

On July 2 we passed the Lulua and pitched our
camp with the chief of the Bena Lokassu, named
Chimboa. I had now nearly 200 men, about 150 of
whom were armed with guns, and so I terminated my
recruiting business.

From the extensive, well-cultivated fields intersected
with broad roads which we saw when on the march, we
soon found that we were not about to encamp with
Chipulumbas, but with well-civilised Bashilange, the
Bena Jionga. We were kindly welcomed, and, as
everywhere in this country, my people were allowed the
free use of the fields. Only meat — meaning in Bashilan-
gish fowls, locusts, dried caterpillars, goats, &c. — had
to be bought. For this reason, therefore, the allowance
that I gave the people — which for a week, perhaps, did
not exceed the value of a yard of stuff — sufficed. Tra-
velling with the Bashilange is very cheap ; they find some-
thing to eat everywhere, while the coasters would soon
be at a loss. When they feel strong enough, I must
own, it is difficult to keep them from taking what they
find, and, in spite of warning, I had to put some of
Kalamba Moana's men into chains for havino; stolen
fowls. I had not taken many provisions with me, nor
could I give out many ; for, as I had calculated pretty
nearly what Germano would bring from the coast, I
had arrived at the conclusion that I should not be able

100

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

to make my long journey to the east. Knowing the
general circumstances in Inner Africa, I should have
made what provisions I had or expected to have suffice ;
but the stay of my expedition at Stanley Pool had made
a large hole in my resources. Everything was exor-
bitantly dear there, though I had sold to the Congo
State the ivory that I bought whilst exploring the

VILLAGE OF THE BENA WITANDA

Cassai, in exchange for provisions ; and though I had
made my Bashilange work for wages at Leopold ville.
Added to this, Wolf had been persuaded during my
absence to pay our coasters higher wages, in order to
satisfy them, since they had seen that the soldiers on
the Lower Congo received much higher pay. Though
I had succeeded in somewhat reducing the wages, yet
my money difficulties continued. From my first journey
I had been accustomed simply to give what was most
necessary, and only when absolutely obliged to do so

TREATMENT OF THE NEGBOES 101

liacl I granted the after-claims of tlie negroes, who were
always increasing their demands.

It is very difficult to accustom oneself to African
thriftiness, especially if one is a new-comer. A young
European is easily inclined, in order to make the negro
more peaceably disposed, or to be relieved of long-
haggling, to allow an increase of salary. The dis-
advantage of such a proceeding lies not in having to
increase once, or even more than once ; it lies in the
negro's becoming aware of how he will gain his end by
begging, which accomplishment he will make use of in
a very dexterous way. I was told by Wolf that Lieu-
tenant Bateman had a knack of easily making friends
with the natives. My first journey with Dr. Pogge,
who knew how to travel very economically, was a good
lesson to me.

Since we crossed the Lulua we had entered a
beautifully fertile and picturesque district. Nearly all
the summits of the hills were covered with groves of
oil-]3alms, the remains of former villages. On the slopes
extended rich fields ; the long-stretched ridges between
numbers of watercourses showed grass savannahs, and
the banks of the brooks, often thirty metres deep, were
covered with primeval forests.

On the 4th we entered the territory of the Bena
Witanda, covered with numerous villao-es. The Moiio,
a rivulet of twenty metres breadth and two or three
metres depth, was crossed on a suspension bridge, which
in consequence of a very ingenious arrangement was
quite safe. The houses were gable-shaped, as all the
Bena Eiamba were compelled to have them.

102

THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

At the Bena Witanda we found an ^olian bell,
wliicli Avas as simple as it was melodious. The bell-
shaped cup of a dried pumpkin peel was suspended from
a tall pole bent at the top. Eound about the bell, pieces
of well-dried grass a span long were fastened to thin
ends of bast, which, when shaken by the wind, produced
a melodious noise. These villages were also without

.T20LL\N HAKPS

shade ; in the centre the Kiota, with long-stretched
piles of firewood, was kept scrupulously clean. Eound
each house a little garden was laid out, planted with
wild hemp, tobacco, onions, pumpkins, tomatoes, and
capsicum, which latter is abundantly used for the dishes
of the Bashilange.

The conductors of our Baluii<TU, the messeno-ers sent
me by Kassongo Chiniama, often gave cause for disputes.

THE BALUNGU'S MISBEPBESENTATIONS 103

The Baluno'u were liot-lieaded to such an extent that
on the shghtest occasion they fell into a towering rage,
in which state they did not satisfy themselves with words
only, as do the Bashilange, but at once made energetic
use of their sticks. Being on an average greatly superior
to the Bashilange as regards streno-th and dexteritv, the
consequences of such a dispute were mostly serious
for the latter.

I began now to greatly distrust the information
of our guides. They often contradicted themselves
about stating distances. At first it was said to be only
a seven short days' journey from the station to their
chief. But since crossing the Lulu a, the number of
days' journeys, though we kept on marching, instead
of decreasing, daily increased. I often had scruples
as to whether I had made proper preparations for the
expedition. The Balungu a^^peased my doubts by
swearing that Chiniama would surely take it upon
himself to maintain the caravan for nothing, and also to
give the men provisions for the return journey. Neither
would they listen to my scruples about the small quantity
of ammunition, for, they said, along the road lived only
* goats,' a term for cowardly, un-martial people.

It seemed to be pretty certain that after crossing
the Lubi we should have to pass two larger tribu-
taries of the Lubilash, before finding on the banks of
the third the village residence of Kassongo. In the
Balungu language, river is Lubilashi, Lubilanshi, or
Lubiranzi.

South of our route the Balungu knew of another
road, through the Bakete countries. The territory of

104 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

these natives, contemptuously called Tubindi or Tubintsh,
lay two or four days' journey south of our road ; part
of the Bakete is said to be called Akauanda and to
border upon Lunda.

On the 6 th we reached the district of the Baqua
Kanjoka, one of the most populous in the Bashilange
country. Here, to the east of the Bashilange tribe, the
transition to the pure Baluba shows more distinctly than
anywhere else. The clever tattooings are seldom seen,
as is the case with the pure Baluba ; these tattooings
were here and there replaced by coloured ornaments.
The appearance of the men was taller and stronger,
and they were also more clumsy in figure, than the
almost gracefully-built Bashilange.

The reader will be astonished to learn that we were re-
ceived here not only kindly but even submissively, while
Lieutenant von Francois, who had been sent here more
than a year before, complained of the savageness of these
tribes, and often found himself and his followers hard
pressed by them. Most likely this gentleman, who was
then a stranger in the country, was mistaken, as many
others have been : he considered the noisy reception, and
the boisterous, restlessly wild behaviour of the people as
a mark of hostility, while, most likely, it was caused only
by surprise and delight. The people accompanying Von
Francois, whom I questioned about it, with the view
of eventually resenting the behaviour of the chiefs,
were likewise of opinion that the chiefs, in perhaps
rather a savage manner, had been contending about
whom the white man was to live with, and that the
traveller had misinterpreted the means they had used to

TEE KANJOKA AS MANUFACTUBEBS 105

gain their end into hostilities, whereas the carriers had
never been apprehensive of danger.

The j)rincipal chief of the Kanjoka — Tenda, or Tenda
Mata — a man with j^leasant features and a gentle voice,
who, in consequence of his marked indecision and indo-
lence, sometimes gave one the impression of his being an
idiot, but who, in reality, was very cunning, brought
a small herd of goats in honour of our arrival. I, how-
ever, gave him a very sharp reproof when he offered
Kalamba Moana his ' mutullu,' i.e. present, which made
the Kanjoka, who were screaming with delight, suddenly
very quiet and subdued. Tenda, expecting that great de-
mands of tribute would be made upon him, was somewhat
excited ; but I should have been wrong to calm him, for
a great chief must request great presents, and conse-
quently those who do not are not much thought of.

The Kanjoka country is particularly rich in iron,
and there are some excellent smiths there. Salt also is
produced, so that the Kanjoka, with the products of
their country and their iron manufacture, undertake
commercial expeditions to the south as far as the Lunda
country. Within an hour I bought 125 very beautiful
hatchets, for each of which I exchanged coloured hand-
kerchiefs. Tenda had, for the last year, sent nearly
every month hatchets and axes to Luluaburg.

Kalamba Moana asked me to let him go, with the
assistance of 100 men, to the chief Kassongo Luaba, who
was at war, one or two days' journey from here, with the
Baluba and hard pressed, to which, however, I did not
consent, as close investigation proved that he was com-
pletely master of the situation. Kassongo Luaba was the

106 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

most enterprising chief of the Bashilange, and their
greatest traveller. He was reported to have been far
beyond Lunda, as far as the lakes, to buy copper (Ban-
gueolo in the Katanga countrj^). He also knew Muata
Jamwo, and was said to have seen a white man with
him, perhaps Dr. Pogge.

After the settling of the tribute and of the presents
to be made in return, I ordered a three days' rest, so
that my men might supply themselves with provisions
for the districts farther east, which were said to be poor.
Tenda, at his own request, received permission to accom-
pany me with twenty men. He also brought me a guide,
the chief Kasairi Paml^u, who lived two days' journey
eastward.

Kasairi was a tall, handsomely -built man of about
sixty, with grey hair, a heavy moustache, and an im-
posing carriage and bearing. The chief carried a spear
eight feet long, and a heavy club a metre in length. A
bunch of parrot's feathers was fastened in his hair at the
back, and two skins of civet-cats, held by a belt in front
and behind, constituted his dress.

Qn the evening before we set out on our march a long
row of women approaclied my tent, accompanying their
monotonous singing with slight movements of the hips.
Each woman carried a calabash filled with palm wine
or millet beer, and these they put down before me one
by one — a goodly array of pumpkin bottles ; then they
formed a circle round me, and the dancing continued
until I delighted the fair ones, some of whom belonged
to Tenda's harem, whilst others were female relatives
of his, by giving them some beads. The present they

RZCEPTION BY THE KAX.IOKA L/.DII S

THE BAQUA EALOSH 107

brought induced me to arrange a party, to which I in-
vited the whole gentry of the village and of my caravan.

Next day we passed the last Bashilange, a small
village of the Bena Kashia, and in crossing the Lukalla,
which falls into the Lubi, we entered the eastern boun-
dary of the country of the Baqua Kalosh, a large family
of the Baluba tribe. The Baluba represent the largest
tribe of Equatorial Africa. They extend south of the
Bashilange, who also call themselves Baluba — though
evidently largely mixed with other tribes — from the
Cassai to far beyond the Lualaba, and even as far east-
wards as the Tanganyika. Their northern boundary lies
about six degrees south latitude. The south of the
Bangueolo is still inhabited by Baluba. A large part
of Muata Jamwo's country is occupied by Baluba ; and
though the Baqua Lunda cannot be called Baluba, they
are, at any rate, a tribe nearly related to them — perhaps
a mixture of Baluba and Kaffirs who have immigrated
from the south. This supposition was caused by ob-
servations of Pogge's on his journey to Muata Jam wo.

The villages now ceased ; the Kalosh lived dispersed
in farms. Their huts were built on a square under-
■ structure of pounded clay. Strong rods driven in in
the square were bent together at a height of two or three
metres, intertwined by parallel-running rods and covered
with grass. The door, fastened with shutters of bark or
palm ribs, was so low that one had to bend when entering.

The difference between two nations is seldom so
strongly marked as is seen to be the case on crossing the
Lukalla, the most easterly point reached by Europeans
(Yon Francois). The Kalosh are a heav}-, muscular, one

108

THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

may say a gigantic people ; among them giants of six
feet in height are frequently found. Their broad,
strongly developed jaws give the face somewhat the
appearance of a bull-dog.

The manners of the Kalosh are noisy and savage,
their voices, like the Bakuba's, are deep, their gait is
heavy and ponderous ; the hair is held together in thick
masses by palm-oil mixed with clay, thus affording a

y^'^

FAEMS OP THE KALOSH

good protection against the club, the favourite weapon of
the Kalosh. I never saw bows, only long s|)ears with iron
points, of which a warrior mostly carries two or three.
High shields constructed of willows form a rude j)ro-
tection. Now and then I saw Lunda knives carried
in the arm-hole, or small Bashilange knives in their
belts.

The sign of a chief consisted in a short-handled
hatchet with a very large and broad blade. Instead of

DENSE POPULATION 109

tattooing they sometimes painted themselves with red^
yellow, or white colours. The women anointed their
whole bodies with oil and red clay, the richer ones with
oil and pounded red-wood, which they were said to
buy from the north.

We halted at one of the largest farms belonging to
the chief Kashama. This chief, a handsomely-built and
heavy man, whose thick beard was intertwined with
small beads, and whose arms were almost covered
with iron and copper rings, brought me a fat sheep
as a present.

On our march next day we were astonished at finding
a dense population. The country, as far as one could
see across the prairie, was covered with farms. Hun-
dreds of people accompanied us screaming, and the
warriors running alongside the caravan beat the ground
with their clubs, or exhibited their dexterity in throw-
ing spears.

We were stopped by messengers who were sent to
tell us not to march on before sending presents to the
neighbouring chiefs ; and that, if we did not conform
to this custom, we should be delayed by force. I sent
back word that we did not wish for war, but that we
should march on as long as it pleased us. I warned
them to be cautious with their threats lest I should
lose my temper and lessen the presents. The behaviour
of the Baluba messengers was such as to require an
energetic answer, and the Kalosh evidently calculated
upon intimidating my Bashilange.

Kasairi Pambu, who next day wanted to introduce
us into his territory, took great pains to prevent a serious

110

THROUGH EOUATOBIAL AFRICA

encounter, which the be-
haviour of the natives
might bring on at any
moment. He drove
those back who in-
solently approached our
bulls ; nay, several times
when an uproar arose
between his tribe and
my people, in which the
former at once assumed
a threatening position, he
broke the spears of the

KASAIBI PAMBU 111

bfienders. As was to be expected, his behaviour, after he
gained his end and after we were encamped near his
farm, became just as insolent as that of the surrounding
crowd, which numbered thousands. In this bare, shade-
less country, only showing' undulating prairies with few
trees, everything seemed bent on annoying us, even the
flies that chose to settle on our eyelids. Kasairi Pambu,
contrary to African custom, did not bring any present,
but expected one from me first ; he, however, expected
in vain.

The attitude of the natives became more and more
threatening. One chief accused Mona Tenda, of my
party, of an old debt, and sent word to me that he
would not let us go before Tenda had paid it. Kasairi
came with a large suite in the evening, requesting me to
stay where I was instead of starting the next day, as was
my intention ; and he even threatened me with war when
I curtly refused to do so. I then told him that if he
dared to threaten me in my camp I should have him
punished. My Bashilange were rather depressed, but the
behaviour of my few^ veterans from the coast, who, after
a few years' experience, always took their cue from me,,
somewhat raised their courage. In order to prevent any
misunderstanding I gave a ' moiio ' at dusk, telling them
that we should start to-morrow. I concluded with scorn-
ful laughter at the boldness of the Kalosh who dared to
hinder our starting. The laughter was responded to by
the caravan, and as a result Kasairi Pambu sent two goats
and promised to serve us as guide the next day. Our
departure eventually took place without any disturbance.

We marched on and on between hundreds of farms.

112 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

through the undulating prairie, whose slopes differed in
height 100 metres at the utmost. The soil was so bad
that not even the water's edge was bordered with trees.

We now entered the district of the Baqua Disho,
who in no wise differed in their appearance from the
Kalosh. A large potato field gave us room for our
camp, and at the same time food for our people.

South of the Disho lived the Baqua Tembo, likewise
Baluba.

Another day's march led us for about two hours
through a savannah of brushwood that was uninhabited.
Then we descended into a valley that was only prairie,
and which was populated even more thickly than the
district we had traversed during the previous days.
Dense crowds repeatedly tried to delay us, requesting us
to stay. The three soldiers marching before me halted
on such occasions, and my quiet bull, regardless of
the uproar, led the way and made the crowd disperse
before his broad horns.

We approached the bottom of the valley, where the
first of the three tributaries of the Lubilash forced us to
halt. The Bushi-Maji, or Kishi-Maji, was at this time,
in the dry season, about 100 metres in width and 1'25
in depth ; but the canoes we saw showed that a
great part of the j^ear it was too deep to be waded
through. I rode through the river, and after calling
out to De Macar to superintend the further progress,
I walked up the bank to find out a place suitable
for the camp. Scarcely had I left the river for ten
minutes, when the guide of my coast soldiers, the bold
and cunning Humba, came running to tell me that

.' — ^-^ AN ENCOUNTUB WITH THE NATIVES 113

a disturbance liad commenced on tlie crossing, and that
the natives showed themselves hostile. I hastened back
to the river, and found the greater part of the caravan,
mostly men and all the soldiers, on this side, while on
the opposite side only women and some sick people
were waiting to cross. On the slope of the bank, in
an amphitheatre round them, stood many hundreds of
natives, who, perhaps disgusted that we did not stay in
their district, were ill-treating my people and trying to
take part of the loads from them.

Just at the moment when I reached the river a
canoe stoj)ped on this side. I jumped in ; my man-
servant, Sankurru, followed with three of my best men,
Humba, Simao, and Kataraija. The native guides of
the canoe in their fright jumped overboard and fled
down stream ; as they had thrown away the oars, I
seized a short stick and pushed the canoe towards the
opposite shore. My stick, however, proved too short
for the depth of water; we floated down, and were
jeered at by the Baluba in front of us. We now jumped
into the water and waded across. The greater number
of Baluba, only men, pushed towards the point where
we wanted to land, and when we had approached the
shore to within about thirty-five metres they threw
large stones at us. The dehght of the Kalosh became
greater and greater. Then suddenly a stone nearly hit
my face, some spears followed, and even a shot from one
of the few guns in the possession of the Baluba, which
showed us that now we had to act, I took my rifle and
shot the foremost of the stone-throwers between the eyes
through his head, so that he fell down on his face.

114 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA , — n

With the second barrel I laid another man low, when
he was just about to throw his spear at me. My com-
panions as well as those from the opposite bank, who
were watching the proceedings, began to fire at the
Baluba. The dense crowd retreated from the river, and
my three companions and I made use of that moment
to climb the bank, under cover of the precipice. The
whole number of Baluba fled, and my people tore after
them shouting with delight at the surprising result.

A strange effect of my first shot was seen in the case
of a native lying close to the shore. The ball had
entered his head between the eyes, and caused the skull
to split all round quite evenly. The crowd — which,
according to the calculation of the women, numbered
at least 500 — had fled in all directions, leaving five dead
behind.

On returning to our caravan some natives appeared
up the river, calling out to us that we must, during
the hostilities, consider a small brook falling into the
river opposite as the boundary between us ; those living-
south of it, not being engaged in the contest, were ac-
cordingly assured of neutrality.

Close to the edge of the Bushi-Maji I chose as a place
of encampment a small neck of land, formed by the river
and a lagoon, and accessible from the land only, with a
breadth of ten metres. The connection with the main-
land was quickly cut ofi" by a barricade of trees. All
the canoes that were found near were fastened to the
bank; then we posted sentinels, as some patrols re-
ported the approach of a large number of Baluba.
Towards evening a gigantic chief, accompanied by only

A TBEAGHEBOUS PROPOSAL 115

a few people and without arms, came to our camp, in-
timating his peaceable intentions by clapping his hands.
I called him near ; and after he had expressed his sur-
prise at the first white man he had seen, he proved his
pacific disposition by offering to ask natives from the
opposite side to come close to the shore, under the
pretence of negotiating with them, in order to give me
the opportunity of shooting at them from behind a tree.
The disgust with which I refused his treacherous pro-
posal greatly astonished him. His manner showed that
caution was necessary with the Baluba.

Kashawalla learnt that by starting at sunrise we
should reach the Luilu, the central tributary of the
Lubilash, in the afternoon, and that from thence it
would be only a long day's journey to the Lubiranzi.
Both these rivers were said to be of the same size and
depth as the Bushi-Maji. Between the latter and the
Luilu lived the Baqua Mukendi, beyond the Luilu again
Baluba. Li order to get to Kassongo Chiniama, I had,
I was told, to go three days' march towards the south
between the Luilu and Lubiranzi. This was corroborated
by my Bashilange guides ; but such a statement only
proved that their former assertions had been incorrect.
My cunning Humba told me that after his inquiries he
was convinced that our Balungu were not sent by Kas-
songo, but were part of a caravan of traders, who in
conducting us to their chief wanted to gain his favour
and be rewarded by him. Kassongo Chiniama was
said to possess many guns from the south, from Lunda,
and to be subject to Mona Kanjika, who lived only a day's
journey from him ; Mona Kanjika, again, was subject to

I 2

116 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Muata Jamwo of Luuda. The Balunou, beincy now
sliarply questioned, and convinced that they could no
longer deceive us, gave us many interesting reports.
They spoke of a European who had come from the east,
and who had passed through their country many years
before accompanied by a Mukalanga (an Arab). This
had evidently been Lieutenant Cameron. Then they
told us that another white man with Kangombe carriers
(Bihe people) had been with them, who had come from
the south, and had gone round the east of Lunda ; he
had presented Kassongo with a revolver, and was pro-
bably a Portuguese trader who later was at war with
the Arab Faniba, and had had to flee with the loss of
the greater part of his goods. I was the first white
man, they said, who had come from the west.

Here, then, we had approached a point where the
journeys of the three first Europeans, from the east,
from the south, and from the west, met. The people
also knew that Pogge and I had formerly passed farther
north. They were evidently acquainted, too, with the
western tributary of the Lualaba, the Komorondo ; for
they said that, in going to Katanga to fetch copper,
they were obliged to pass the Lomami and another
large river, which flowed through a series of lakes.
Later, when unfavourable circumstances prevented my
exploring the Lualaba, I reproached myself for not
having tried to advance into the Balungu district.

When night had set in, an uninterrupted noise of
drums and shouts began in the territory of the punished
Kalosh. Under cover of the darkness they came to the
edge of the river and jeered at us. I sent them word by

MY THREATENING THE KALOSH 111

the Balungu that I wished them next day to surrender
the two warriors who had begun the fight by throwing
stones, and that if they did so I should keep the peace ;
if they did not do so I should come over and burn
their farms. They answered scornfully, that I might
come if I liked ; they would to-morrow morning oppose
me with a force innumerable as the grass of the savannah
(a favourite African comparison), that would annihilate
me and my party. The Baqua Mukendi before us were
likewise alarmed, and they just waited to see where I
was going, since, now I was here, they did not mean me
to leave the Baluba country any more. My Bashilange
slept little during the night, for the incessant screaming
from the opposite bank — an exulting, piercing sound
which, uttered through the hollow hand, resembles the
bark of a hyena — kept them in constant excitement.

Next morning I had to distribute cartridges, for, to
my surprise, I found that the Bashilange, firing across
the river the day before, had used up nearly all their
ammunition. Our departure was certainly not to be
thought of, as it was possible the Kalosh might follow,
and we did not know how the tribes in front micrht be
disposed towards us. Considering the insolence of the
Kalosh, the only means to get rid of them would be to
attack them in their hamlets, and to scatter them in
such a way that they would not be able to assemble
again before our departure ; this would at the same
time intimidate the other tribes. At daybreak I
crossed the river with 100 men, leaving De Macar in
defence of the fortified camp, for the Kalosh were
descendins^ in endless swarms to the bank.

118

THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

The natives living opposite the brook called out to
me to request that I would wait ; they would try once
more to restore peace by surrendering the enemies de-
manded, or by a payment on the part of the Kalosh. I
gave them time, which I indicated by pointing with my
hand to the height of the sun, and waited on the shore.

EETURN FP.OII THE FIGHT

Nothing, however, was to be seen of the Kalosh, and
when the sun reached the height I had fixed upon, I
marched straight through their hundreds of farms, of
which those in the immediate neighbourhood were
even then deserted. Troops of enemies followed us be-
yond reach of a shot, with their long s|)ears, beating
their shields and mockino- us. I forbade shooting and

THE BURNING OF FABMS 119

marched briskly on. I was soon amongst farms that
were still inhabited, and everywhere the j)eople began
to flee in the utmost haste. Everj^one ran to and fro
with his belono-incrs, but I marched steadily forward to
the summit of a hiU that commanded a view into the far
distance.

I now sent out companies, each consisting of ten
men, in all directions to make prisoners and to report
about any warlike gatherings. I showed the patrols
the boundary of their advance, and gave orders that if
they saw smoke ascending from the farm where I
stopped they were to return to me, after having set on
fire such farms as they could reach.

I soon knew by the bright fires that the troops had
here and there encountered the enemy ; only from one
quarter we got the message that the force of the Kalosli
was too strong to be attacked by the j^atrol. A reinforce-
ment was sent at full speed to the spot, and rapid shoot-
ing from the same direction, which seemed to get more
and more distant, announced the defeat of the enemy.

When the firing had ceased on all sides I set the
farm on fire, and pillars of smoke rising everywhere in a
half-circle told me that my signal had been noticed.
My troops now approached, literally loaded with fowls,
and driving goats before them like prisoners. I marched
slowly back, and did not reach the Bushi-Maji till late
in the afternoon, and from the cheering shouts in the
camps I concluded that everything was all right there.
When we reached the camp, the booty, some thirty
goats, several hundreds of fowls, and the corn, was dis-
tributed, and the prisoners, numbering over a hundred,

120 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

were fenced in, so as to be better watched. According
to my guides' account, about ten Baluba, who had fled
in every direction after a short resistance, were killed.
One of our party, however, was missing, and by the
evening we saw his head, which they had fastened to a
long pole, displayed by the Kalosh.

The natives on our right bank, who had assembled
in great numbers near the camp, were at first thoroughly
intimidated by the surprising result ; but that this mood
would not last long was proved by the behaviour of the
Kalosh, who began to jeer at us from the opposite bank
as soon as it was dark. I had now to decide upon the
next steps to be taken.

For six more days we had to pass through territory
quite as populous as before, and on one of those days
we must again come upon part of the Kalosh tribe,
who, as the Mukendi thought, would certainly make
war. By that time we should have reached Kassongo
Chiniama, of whose disposition we were by no means
sure, and of whose hot-headed, warlike people our
guides were an example. Provisions were getting
scarce, as we had been deceived about the distance ;
but, what was more serious, our ammunition was so
much reduced that I had not more than five cartridges
at the utmost left for each man. It was impossible to
deter the Bashilange from shooting, even at ridiculously
long distances.

Our way to Kassongo Chiniama had led us far
beyond the southern boundary of the Congo State, so
that I could take upon me no further risk, if only for the
reason that Kassonoo Chiniama no lono-er belono-ed to the
Congo State. Thus I was left no choice but to decide

SCAIICITY AMONG THE BALUBA 121

upon a retreat, though the idea of having to go back
for the first time in Africa was exceedingly painful to
me ; however, I had to think of my Bashilange and
avoid the loss of human life in prospect of my intended
long journey. Though I had not seen the Luilu and
Lubiranzi, as I should have desired, the reports about
these two rivers so agreed with each other that an
error about the situation was not probable. I had
seen enough of the country and its people, and the
scenery was said always to remain the same — grass-
savannah everywhere. The population as far as the
boundary of Balungu consisted of Baluba, with whom I
did not wish to have anything to do.

The Baluba have remarkably little inclination to
improve their arms and utensils. Their spears are simply
long pointed rods of hard wood ; their shields are made
of coarse wickerwork, their clubs are without any
carving, and their kitchen pots and pans are of the same
shape as those used farther west ; indeed, everything
showed rudeness and an entire want of a sense of
beauty. The huts, in the shape already described, were
slovenly ; anything there was of iron, weapons or utensils,
was Lunda work or imported from the Bashilange. The
country itself is miserably monotonous. They have
nothing that would be suitable for commerce with
neighbouring people, except human beings, and e\evj-
thing imported is paid for with slaves. Even firewood
is wanting. Nor is there any game, in consequence of
the dense population scattered everywhere. Goats are
not often found, Mdiile sheep and pigs are not met with
anywhere. Nex^- to Ugogo, in the far east of Africa,
this country is the most inhospitable that I know of

122 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

and the most unsuitable for any attempts at civilization.
But what disgusted us most was the childish insolence
of the people ; in the case of great numbers, this may
prove dangerous for a traveller.

I did not impart my resolution to turn back to my
party, though Kalamba Moana, Tenda, and the other
chiefs were intensely anxious to know what I should do.
Kalamba Moana gave a ' Moiio ' in the evening, propos-
ing that I should restore the prisoners, which, he said,
would allay the hostility of the tribes, so that we might
proceed without disturbance. How little a negro knows
his own race ! The Kalosli would certainly have con-
sidered our surrendering the prisoners as a sign of fear.
I refused such proposals, and told Kalamba that the
prisoners were mine, and not one man should be re-
stored, na}', more, that on the morrow I should again
attack the Kalosh and make more prisoners. I made
this ' Moiio,' convinced that some Baluba were near the
camp and would overhear Kalamba Moana's and my
speeches, by which I hoped to iniimidate the Baluba.

J^ext day I gave the customary signal for departure,
and commanded the van of the caravan, which always
consisted of my veterans, to cross the river and march
the same way back that we had come. This command,
the true reasons for which no one knew, caused a great
commotion among the Bashilange, and the greater j^art
of them sincerely regretted that I would not continue
the journey. They of course joined their guides without
disputing, and the caravan was so arranged that those
with arms who had no loads to carry were distributed on
every side, in order to protect and guard the carriers,

OUB BE TREAT 123

women, and prisoners. Though everybody fled from us,
as they had done yesterday, my caravan behaved badly,
and tauii'ht me that a retreat with ne2:roes, even under the
most favourable circumstances, is always a critical affair.
Small troops of natives kept running at a safe distance
alongside of our caravan, now taking a threatening
position in front of us, now collecting behind, without
seemino- to be able to venture on an attack. The cara-
van might have been compared to a flock of sheep sur-
rounded by wolves. Our people pressed together, rush-
ing on in such a hurry that I lost much of the trust I
had put in the Bashilange.

Only once did the Baluba come so near that one of
my men fired at them. The chief task of the soldiers
who marched in front was to prevent the others from
pushing forward. M}^ veterans could only effect this by
driving back those that pressed forward too quickly ;
thus we were able to make a retreat which, at least from
a distance, apj)eared to be a quiet one. In this con-
fusion a number of the prisoners managed to escape.
If the Baluba could have assured themselves of our
real condition, they certainly would have made an
attack. In order that it should not have the appear-
ance of a retreat, I halted several times to rearrange the
caravan.

The pursuit, or rather the disturbance on the part
of our enemy, did not cease till we ascended the ridge
of the hill and left the populous valley of the Buslii-
Maji. As I said before, I felt richer by this very im-
portant experience. If I had my choice again I should
prefer a rash and apparently hazardous attack to a

124 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

retreat under seemingly favourable circumstances with
undisciplined negroes. The moral superiority of an
attack makes such an impression on him that he does not
notice the strength of the enemy ; on the other hand, it
tells on those attacked so overwhelmingly that they do
not recomiise the weakness of the assailant. This obser-
vation was of particular advantage to me in 1889, during
the first encounters which I had to engage in with young
troops, when suppressing the East African rebellion.

We encamped in the same place that we had occupied
when coming, and noticed that the Baqua Disho, who
were no doubt well acquainted with the events of the
last few days, were less timid than might have been
expected. When the people came into our camp to
trade, several prisoners disappeared, evidently with their
assistance ; even one of our dogs was stolen, but was re-
stored again when I made it plain to the chief, who was
present in the camp, that he would not be allowed to
leave before I got the dog back. They even wanted,
obviously urged by the Kalosh, to induce us to stay.

The summit of a hill that commanded a view for
miles of the densely populated country afforded a suit-
able camp next day. The number of invalids increased
alarmingly ; inflammation of the lungs especially began
to show itself, caused by the cold nights and the strong
winds that were continually blowing across the open
prairie of the Baluba.

My quinine was used up, and the mustard plasters
had been spoilt ; these latter I tried to replace by
poultices of hot flour mixed with red pepper.

As we went on, our old guide, Kasairi Pambu, with

AFBICAN FAIBS 125

some other chiefs, made his appearance, and, march-
ing in front of us, they dispersed any gathering of
armed people. We halted on the Lukalla, the boundary
of the Baluba country, still the territory of the Kalosh.
We found them holding one of the fairs, as is customary
with all Baluba and most nations of Equatorial Africa,
in celebration of which about 4,000 people were assem-
bled in a large square. Besides the usual provisions
offered for sale, there were articles of earthenware, and
articles made from the palm, uruhu (a dark red dye),
Midipemha (a white dye). Our aj^pearance did not in
the least disturb the assembly. A very stringent law
had made this fair neutral ground, and we learned that
even peojole of hostile tribes might appear without
danger. The chief in whose territory the fair was held
kept watch in his greatest pomp with half a dozen
guards, in order that no disjDute might disturb its peace.
His cordpanions were known by the broad axe which
they carried on their shoulders, and whenever a some-
what loud dispute arose they were immediately at their
posts. The chief Kashama, the controller of this fair,
wore a beautifully arranged ornament of the plumes of
the corythaix and parrot on his head. Eound his throat
and neck he wore a garment trimmed with strips of
long-haired goat's skin, and round the hips a crinoline-
shaped band of white skins. In his right hand he held
a large fetish horn, in his left a far-sounding rattle (an
ornamented calabash filled with stones). Eound his
ankles were twisted many cords with iron bells, so
that each step of the giant made a tinkling sound.
Behind him crouched one of his guards with the large

12G THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

judge's hatchet, and beside him a man who now and then
beat a laro-e wooden drum.

At intervals, Kashama performed his dances, accom-
panied by the screaming of the multitude, in the large
space kept open for him. These dances consisted of
grotesque leaps alternating with indecent rolling of the
hips. After each dance a woman, likewise dancing,
approached, placing her fairing before the chief. Each
parish whose representatives are present on trading-
business has to give a present to the chief of the fair.

Durin"- the niejlit the thermometer fell below 8°
Celsius, so that De Macar and I took all the clothes out
of our boxes to put them over the blankets.

Even next morning till about nine o'clock my hands
were stiff with cold, rendering writing very difficult.

On the 17 th we again reached Mona Tenda's village,
and indeed it was high time to give ni}^ people rest, for
disease had alarmingly increased. Inflammation of the
lungs and fever were raging, and I was greatly alarmed
at the complaints of back-aches and flashings before
the eyes, as small-pox often begins with those symptoms,
and there were ten cases of small-pox in the village even
then.

The chiefs of my party, to whom I had made known
that I should only await the arrival of provisions and
ammunition before proceeding to Kassongo Chiniama,
came to me requesting me to abandon the journey.
They thought the Kalosh had revenged themselves by
bewitching us, this being the only reason of our having
so many invalids. Knowing that Germano was soon
expected from the coast, I resolved upon marching back

BALUBA'S CONFIDENCE IN WHITE MEN 127

to the station. First, however, I ordered three days of
rest, and sent back some Baluba of our party with the
message that I was ready to ransom the prisoners wdio
were their relatives, asking, on the average, four goats
for each prisoner — of which concession they soon availed
themselves. In the end, we took a number of prisoners
with us to the station, intending to send them back
later on. I allowed some Baluba, relatives of Kasairi
and Kashama, to accompany me to Luluaburg, thinking
it might assist us in getting on a better footing with
the Kalosh.

The merchant Saturnino, who had again followed me,
and who was now on his way to the above-mentioned
Kassongo Luaba, came to visit me ; he also had been
invited by the Balungu. From his guides I learnt that
my suppositions about the tributaries of the Sankurru
were quite right. The people added that the most
eastern tributary, the Lubilasha, sprang from a lake
twenty days' journey farther south.

Two of the Baluba who had fought against us on the
Bushi-Maji presented a remarkable apjDearance. Both of
them had a number of grains of shot in the back and
chest. They requested me to remove them, saying that
only a white man could heal wounds made by fire-arms.
They thought a great many people had been wounded
without daring to come to me. I of course helped them
as well as I could, and in order to reward their confi-
dence I dismissed them with a small present.

Three Bashilange had succumbed to their illness ;,
before starting for Luluaburg a number that were unable
to march I entrusted to Mona Tenda's care, leaving a

128

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

JUNGLES OF PANDANUS

home south

the Bakete
country.
The ap-
pearance of the country was the same as on commg.
Marcliing through Baqua Mulenda and Baqua Chia
we met a small caravan of Mukenge, at the head of
which the star flag was displayed. We had chosen
the same way as Von Francois had done at the time, and,

CONFLAGBATION AT LULUABURG 129

like him, we had great difficulty in passing the boggy
pandanus jungles bordering the brooks. The principal
chief of the Baqua Kassassu, one of the opponents, paid
a fine for his non-appearance, and had to accompany
me to Luluaburg.

We passed the source of the Moansangomma, which
falls into the Lubudi, whose mouth Wolf had found on
the Sankurru. The number of the weak and sick was
so large that we had frequently to make a day's halt.

A few hours before reachino- Luluaburo- 1 learnt that
there had been a o-reat conflao-ration at the station.
I saw on arriving there on the 25th that the large bar-
racks, containing twenty-one rooms, had been entirely
destroyed by fire. The walls, consisting of strong trees
plastered with clay, had been burning for three days.
Nothing else had happened ; Germano had not arrived ;
but letters had come from Angola, which reported about
the provisions to be expected.

The time now approached when I had to place under
command of Kalamba the chiefs who had received the
flag of the Congo State. I agreed with him that this
should take place at the station. Only the villages
in the nearest vicinity of the station, under their chief
Chiniama, were to become immediately subject to it ;
while Kalamba was responsible for all the other chiefs
of Lubuku. September 10 was fixed as the day of
meeting of the princes of Lubuku, and once more
patrols were sent in all directions to deliver the
invitations.

News had arrived from Lieutenant Bateman on the
Luebo of his having had an encounter with the Bakuba,

130 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

who had retreated with the loss of five men. I there-
fore sent down orders to communicate this to the
great chief Luquengo, and to request that he, accord-
ing to his promise to Wolf, should place himself on a
good footing with us, unless he wanted us to visit him
with a few thousand Bashilange.

At the beginning of the rain}^ season the Europeans
had, as usual, much to suffer from fever. Lieutenant Le
Marinel was visited l^y a dangerous fever, which so
exhausted him that we began to fear for his life. As
he could not swallow quinine I gave him injections,
experiencing great difficulties from the want of proper
medicines. I had only sulphuric quinine, which I
dissolved in acetic acid for the injection. The conse-
quence was that the injection caused large and deep
wounds. The quinine took effect in spite of all, and
after the intense irritation was removed by injections of
morphia, I had the great satisfaction of finding him free
from fever, after a nearly two days' sleep, which was so
profound as only to be interrupted b}'' the painful in-
jections. A so-called cock-tail, a beverage compounded
of brandy, sugar, eggs, bitters, and nutmeg, proved a
very salutary nourishment and stimulant. It was a
long time before the weakened constitution of the ori-
ginally strong young officer was restored to perfect
health.

131

CHAPTER V

llEGULATION OF POLITICAL AFFAIES AT LUBUKU

DEPARTURE FOR THE NORTH-EAST THE JOURNEY TO THE

SANKURRU

Meeting of the chiefs of Lubukn — Heavy hail storm — My fruitless
search for Germano — Dr. Sommers — Germano at last — Departure
for our long journey to the North-East — Camp building — Piobberies
and skirmish — Prairies — Villages set on fire — Pacific welcome — Slave
trade of the Bihe people — Primaeval forests — Inhospitable savages —
On the Lubi — Simao's gallant swimming expedition — Punishment of
the rapacious Ngongo — A thief punished by an arrow-shot — On the
Sankurru.

Xow followed, as it were, a Sisyi^hus-work, which did
not lead to the aim desired for two months, viz. to
make Kalamba head chief of Lubuku, though he had to
be subject to us. It had not required much trouble
to force the seniors of the villages to submit to their
upper chiefs, but to unite the different opinions of the
latter, each of whom considered himself greatest, ]3roved
more difficult than I had counted upon.

The returning patrols, who had given the chiefs
notice of the appointed meeting, brought some of them
back with them. Others had reported themselves ill,
some were from home, and others again plainly refused
to come. The most obstinate was Kilunga Messo, who,
whenever I went to him, promised ever^^thing, paid his
fine, and declared himself ready to obey, but would not

K 2

132

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

subordinate liimself to the command of Kalamba. As
I had advisedly arrived at the result that the Bashi-
lange could only be ruled by one of their own party,
I did not give way, but resolved eventually to carry
oat my intention by force. Thirty-six chiefs met at
last at Luluaburo-, among them Kiluno-a Messo ; but

LETWEEN' LULUA AND MOANSAKGOMJL^

Xalamba, who was at times very obstinate, played me the
trick of not coming, because, as he sent me word, he was
afraid of being fetished by Kilunga Messo, whom he
durst not look in the face before he (Kilunga) had
smoked hemp in his kiota. So I was compelled to
induce the last opposing chief, Kilunga Messo, to

KILUNGA MESSO FOBCED TO SUBMIT 133

submit at Kalamba's village, or rather town, for the
place contained at least 10,000 inhabitants.

The reception at Kalamba's, when I brought him the
last of the opposing chiefs, was a grand one. My 'Moiio '
was repeated by at least 5,000 voices. In the centre of
the kiota, round which the innumerable mass of people
had crowded, Kilunga Messo had to walk three times
round the sacred fire of hemp, saying the while that he
did not entertain any evil thoughts against Kalamba ;
then, sitting between Kalamba Moana and another chief,
he had to smoke hemp ; after which he was led into Ka-
lamba's house, where the reconciliation of the two old
enemies and the personal subordination of Kilunga Messo
to Kalamba took place. Great was the delight all round
that peace now reigned at Lubuku, and that they had
no longer to fear the nations beyond the boundary of
the hemp-smoking Bashilange ; nations weak in com-
parison to the now united Lubuku. Playing at war,
shooting, hemp-smoking, dancing and singing termi-
nated the festivities of the alliance of Lubuku.

Before I rode back to the station Kalamba gave me
a beautiful bull, which he had bought of the Kioques,
and promised to observe all that I had asked of him as
the condition of retaining his supremacy.

The chief requirements were the following : All the
old hostilities were to be forgotten. The chiefs alone
were to retain power over their inferiors. The tri-
bute was to be paid regularly, once a year, and it
was not to be excessive. The chiefs were to be at
liberty to complain of Kalamba to the head of the
station. No wars were to be carried on without the

134 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

consent of the head of Luhiaburg. Convicts under sen-
tence of death were to be surrendered to the station.
The drinking oi juramento — a poison which was used, in
a contest between two, to decide as to the judgment of
God — was prohibited. For journeys, wars, or particu-
larly important work, Kalamba had to furnish men ; for
those used for work or for an escort a reo-ular tax had
to be paid, and those for warlike purposes he had to
furnish gratis. The market price was to be the same
throughout Lubuku.

I was engaged till the end of September in regu-
lating these political affairs, whose stability will of course
always be dej^endent on the controlling power of the
station.

The meteorological phenomena of the months of
August and September ]iad been exceedingly strange.
The rainy season had set in, but not in earnest ; for
although the sky was always overcast, we had only occa-
sional drizzling rain or short showers without thunder,
a very rare occurrence in these regions. Cold winds
often developing into whirlwinds were frequent, and
on August 14 a curious phenomenon occurred. Black
clouds, which moved with extraordinary speed, were
visible in the north-east. A wind, that seemed to us icy,
came in storm-like gusts from the same quarter across
the savannah, scorched by the meridian sun. The
thermometer sank from 33° to 19" C, bananas were
l^roken down, and many houses were unroofed in the
next village. After the threatening dark clouds had
drawn near across the Lulua, there was a shower of hail,
rattling down in transparent icy crystals — mostly in cubes

STBANGE PHENOMENON 135

whose sides were of from one to two centimetres lonsf
— on men and beasts, causing them to scream with pain,
and look out for sheUer. This lasted for seven minutes,
then the hail became gradually smaller, then rounded,
and at length turned white, resembling the hailstones
of our country. The Bashilange were quite as astonished
at this incident as we were. Not before the becfinningf
of October did the regular rainy season set in, with its
one or two storms daily, mostly taking place between
5 P.M. and midnight.

At the same time I learnt that caravans were
advancing, and with them the longed-for Germano.
Eeports of a war between the Bangala and the Kioques,
through whose countries Germano had to pass, had
made me very anxious.

On October 1 I started with Le Marinel to meet
Germano on the Cassai, where difficulties for the caravan
were to be apprehended. In crossing the Luebo we
entered the territory of the Chipulumba. These
tribes, to whom Pogge and I had given the name of
' the thieves ' on our first journey to Lubuku, were even
more hateful to us now than before, on account of thefts,
punishments, threats, and a thousand and one troubles.

The eastern Bashilange have adopted the plural ' Tu '
instead of ' Ba ' of the Tupende.

It is singular what a difference there is between the
hemp-smoking Bashilange of Lubuku and this thievishly
insolent and lying mob.

Not one hour passed in the camp without my in-
tervention being necessary for settling or punishing
robberies, thefts, or some other acts of violence.

136 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

On crossing tlie Luebo we met a caravan who had
seen nothing of Germano, though they had marched
exceedingly slowly, besides stopping on the Cassai for
some time. I now began to conjecture that Germano,
on account of the above-named war, had been forced to
retreat to the coast, or that he had been deprived of
his provisions ; and, greatly disappointed and depressed,
I returned to Luluaburg. As without new provisions a
further prosecution of my task was not to be thought
of, I resolved to go down the Congo in the iron boat
with a choice crew, and thence to return by steamer to
procure provisions. No sooner had I selected the best
of my veterans, among them Humba and Simao of
course, and some Zanzibaris of Luebo station, and made
the most necessary preparations for the rather long and
hazardous journey, than suddenly, on October 17, the
news arrived that Germano and a white man were within
three days' journey.

I started next morning, and as early as eight o'clock
met a small caravan headed by a European unknown to
me. Dr. Sommers, having separated from the expedi-
tion of the missionary Bishop Taylor in Angola, had
come here with Germano, intent upon independent mis-
sionary work. He had left Germano three days before,
and had marched on in order to announce his coming.
Next day I actually met Germano on the Muveau, with
a thousand excuses for his unheard-of delay. With him
were 200 carriers and 100 head of cattle. A large part
of the caravan belonged to some black traders who had
joined Germano. A great many of the provisions I had
ordered had been spent in presents to chiefs, who had

I OB G ANISE MY EXPEDITION 187

made difficulties on account of the war. My intended
journey was at all events made possible now. The stock
of cattle at the station was pleasantly increased, and by
my desire Germano had Ijrought turkeys and domestic
cats, which I wanted to try to introduce in these parts.
As I had apprehended, the expedition had had to en-
counter difficulties on the Cassai. Dr. Sommers and
Germano had been compelled to oppose the insolent de-
mands of some Kioque chiefs by a warlike demonstration.

Now commenced the organising with all our might
of the expedition to the east. We were fully occupied
in hiring carriers, packing loads, superintending the
soldiers' exercises, shooting at targets, and other pre-
parations. Kalamba requested a further delay of a
month, which I refused, and we succeeded in completing
the arrangements for our departure within ten days.

A several days' fever, however, again forced me to
delay. At last the stations were placed under Captain
de Macar, Dr. Sommers, and Lieutenant Bateman ; the
latter, as head of Luebo station, remained with him,
and on November 16 I left Luluaburg with Lieute-
nant Le Marinel, Bugslag, Humba, Simao, besides 15
soldiers, 42 coasters, 38 ransomed Baluba slaves,
and 250 Bashilange carriers. Sangula Meta, Kalamba
Moana, and Chingenge joined us with 600 followers,
among whom were 100 women. The caravan was
accordingly 900 and odd strong, armed with 500 guns,
mostly muzzle-loading.

Luluaburg, where I had worked so long, felt almost
like home to me. Especially when, riding at the rear
out of the gates, I called out a farewell to some of my

138 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

old veterans, who remained behind, I could scarcely
master my emotion, all the more when the oldest, an
ancient with white hair and beard, strewing ashes befor^
me as a fetish for the journey, exclaimed at parting :
' Deus guarda vossa excellentia ! '

At Chingenge we passed the Lulua and marched
N.N.E. ; this was a more northerly direction than I had
formerly taken with Pogge. The country at first re-
mained the same as near Luluaburg ; palm groves alter-
nated with dense growth of primasval forest, and in the
valleys were savannahs of thick trees. The clearings
of the wood showed thickets of pine-apples ; the narrow
bottoms of the steeply-cut brooks and their slopes were
mantled with primaeval forest. The ridges of the
rounded parts of the plateau between two slopes were
covered with laterite. The humus was washed away
and floated to deeper places, where it lay rather thickly.
The water currents had penetrated through the layer of
laterite, and thence through a layer of about thirty
metres of sandstone, down to the hard bottom of
Plutonic rocks. It was only upon our approaching the
Moansangomma that the layer of sandstone failed, and
the valleys of the brooks grew more shallow, wide, and
boggy.

The continual rainy season did not much disturb
us, since the regular thunderstorms did not set in till
evening, or even night ; my people were so far compelled
only to cover their huts more carefully than usual. At
first I took great care to arrano-e the huts mvself, in
order to accustom the Bashilange to build the Kilombo
(camp) in a circle. The country abounded in guinea

ONE OF OUR MEN EETAINED BY THE LUSSABI 139

fowls, savannah fowls, and especially pigeons. Of the
fonr species of the latter, I mention the beautifnl
golden green parrot-dove, living in flocks of ten or
fifteen.

Without any remarkable change we passed through
the villages of Bena Eiamba, the people of which were
devoted tx) us. Everywhere we received the customary
presents and lived sumptuously, as our people were
allowed free use of the fields, and the}^ had onl}^ to pur-
chase the ingredients for their meals of vegetables.

As soon as we had passed the boundary of Lubuku
on the 26th, and come to the Chipulumba tribes, first
among them the Bena Moanga, quarrels and acts of
violence commenced. Any trading that they could not
agree about turned into a fight, the consequences of
which obliged us to apply our surgical knowledge to
the wounds inflicted. The fault did not lie with the
Chipulumba alone, for our Bashilange were repeatedly
hurried into acts of violence by their sense of superiority
and hatred. Bugslag, who invariably wound up the
caravan with part of the soldiers, had been obliged in
the Baqua Lussabi country to drive away the obstinately
pursuing Chipulumba with a harmless shot ; the j^eople
wanted to repay themselves by plunder for objects that
they pretended had been stolen from them.

It turned out that one of our men, who had remained
behind, was seized and retained by the Lussabi, so that
I had to send back twenty men in search of him. The
natives received my soldiers with firing, but as soon as
the fire was returned they deserted tlie village, leaving
a boy and girl in the hands of my people.

140

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

111 the evening my man was
restored, together with a present
of a few goats, after which I
likewise sent back the captive
children. I had two Bashilange,
one of my ransomed slaves and
a coast-carrier, punished with
fifty lashes for having taken fowls from the natives by
force and thus caused disputes.

We waded through the very strong current of the
Lubudi, where it was twenty metres in breadth and one
metre in depth. At the urgent request of my people
T distributed two charges of powder each to the Bashi-
lanofe.and five cartridges each to the soldiers and carriers.
North of the Lubudi we lighted upon a vast grass
savannah, similar to the one we had met with at Baluba.
These undulating prairies seem to extend west of the

CONSTRUCTION OF FURNACES

Lubilasli district along the seventh and fifth degree,
as far as the Kalunda countries.

As in all grass savannahs, with their dark red
porous laterite, we found an abundance of iron here,
and near the extensive villao-e of the Bena Lukoba,
situated on a large pond resembling Mukamba Lake,
we came upon a number of beautifully constructed
furnaces.

GRASS SAVANNAH

An immense cylinder of hard-baked clay of nearly
two metres diameter served as a receptacle for hard
dry wood, amidst which layers of the iron clay were
packed. The burning of the logs could be slackened
by lessening the draught. The heavy particles of iron,
melted out of the iron ore, fell to the bottom of the
cylinder, and as the strongly heated structure prevented

142 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

their cooling, the}^ ^^assecl into a reservoir purified by a
tube which conducted the draught from below. The
houses gradually assumed the shape of the eastern
Baluba houses, and the tattooing ceased : instead of it
we found painting with black, white, and red colours —
the only ones known here. The pond near the village,
about 500 metres long and 150 metres broad, with an
average depth of 1"G metre and a boggy bottom, had a
temperature of 26° C, and was stocked with large wild
ducks ; round its flat grassy banks crouched the night
raven, which is always found on large plains or near
the water. The bustard, finding a congenial locality,
was also frequently met with.

On the 30th ,we approached several villages, whose
inhabitants, Baqua Kajinga, had a month ago attacked
and robbed a caravan of Chingenge's. Two of Chin-
genge's men had been struck by poisoned arrows, and
they were afterwards killed and buried. The Kajinga,
in fear of punishment, had taken flight, and Chingenge
asked permission to burn their villages as a requital,
to which, his account proving true, I consented. When
the site of the three small villages of the rapacious
Kajinga was only a heap of smoking ruins, Chingenge
with his warriors went to the place where the members
of his tribe were buried and, after the fashion he had
learned from us, fired three salutes.

On inspecting the village before the conflagration,
poisoned arrows were found ; the poison, however,
seemed to be very old, for an experiment tried on a
fowl had but small result.

A very narrow track of primeval forest, extending

A DEPUTATION FROM THE BAQUA SEKELAI 143

for miles, separated the country of the robbers from the
Baqua Sekelai, from whose villages a deputation came
to meet us, beckoning to us with palm-branches. The
chief, marching at the van, assured us that he had not
been eno-ao-ed in the before-mentioned attack, but that
he was commissioned by the Kajinga to pay a fine as an

A MELTING FURNACE OF THE BENA LCKOBA

atonement for their crime. After assurinsf him that we

had no hostile design, we pitched our camp in the centre
of his numerous villages, whose inhabitants owned mau}^
guns. The customary presents having been exchanged,
the chief reappeared, carrying thirty Baluba slaves, three
goats, and a leopard's skin, as an atonement for the crime
committed and in payment for the ivory stolen from

144 THEOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Cliingenge. 1 decided that, considering tlie punishment
they had sustained in having their villages burnt down,
I would make this payment do, which, according to
African custom, I divided between myself, the judge,
those who were robbed, and their chiefs.

I repeatedly accepted presents and payments, even
if consisting in slaves : in the first place, because this is
African custom, and secondly, because the refusal of a
present would be considered an insult ; moreover, the
slaves would have a much better lot with me or with
the Lubuku than with the sava<i'e natives. There were
a large number of such captives at Luluaburg, who had
to work a certain time for the station, for which they
received clothes and maintenance. After a time, which
depended on the work they had done, they received full
wages and were naturally free. After being ransomed,
they mostly built their villages near the protecting
station, and seldom made use of their permission to
return home.

In the very populous district of the Baqua Chameta
I allowed my caravan a day's halt, and, yielding to the
wishes of the natives, I distributed brass wire and small
beads for the purchase of provisions. Our old Sangula
found a man here whom she had, years before, chosen
for her husband, but who had abandoned his rather
domineering consort by running away l3efore the end of
the honeymoon. The old lady pardoned her former
lover, announcing to me her intention of taking him as
a travelling companion. At first he seemed greatly re-
joiced at this prospect ; but when we started two days
after, he was nowhere to be found. Sangula was most

SLAVE TRADING AMONG THE BIHE CARRIEES 145

indignant at liis ingratitude, as she had dressed him up
and supplied him with all her treasures.

Part of a caravan of Bihe people were present here,
and I had a great mind to make them prisoners for their
slave-trading. I had to abandon the idea, however, not
knowing what to do with them. They carry on the
most shameful slave trade imaginable. Black traders
from Ano'ola or Beno-uela turn Bihe carriers or attend-
ants, who, though thievish, are comparatively bold and
warlike, and who undertake longer journeys than any
other negroes of the west coast. They go in quest
of countries where a gun is unknown ; they make
arrangements with the chiefs about supplies of slaves,
and they will even join slave-hunters. They then take
their prisoners to the Bakuba tribes, where they exchange
them for ivory, which they take home by the nearest
route, mostly by Kabao and the Lulua.

The Bakuba buy male slaves for the sole purpose of
killing them at funerals. The higher the rank of the de-
ceased, the more slaves have to follow him to the grave. ^

The head of Luebo station had been informed of
his wicked proceeding, and he had repeatedly suc-
ceeded in depriving the Bihe caravans of their slaves or
their ivory in order to prevent their coming again. I
also sent a message to Luluaburg, informing Captain De
Macar of the presen'^e of such a caravan in these parts.

My instruments of observation caused many diffi-
culties. In using the prismatic circle, the artificial
sky refused to act ; the quicksilver, through some care-
lessness, had become impure, and apparently begun to

^ Vide Im Innern Afrikas.

UG THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

decompose, so that to purify it was almost impossible.
My aneroid barometers (Wolf had given them into my
care on my departure) also showed great deviations.

After leaving the open prairie we again entered
thickly wooded savannahs, with many stretches of pri-
ma3val forests. Brooks l^ecame frequent, and were so
deeply indented that the roads, winding round them,
passed along across saddles and ridges which made it
very difficult to keep the track. The inhabitants began
to resemble the Baluba as regards the arrangement of
their dwellings. A number of small villages with from
ten to thirty huts crowned the saddles or summits. The
inhabitants were seldom found to have guns, and since
a European had never been in these parts, and the news
of the war with Katende had perhaps made our name
formidable, fear was spread wherever we appeared.
But the roving and savage Baluba, who quickly take
up impressions, soon lose all fear.

As the inhabitants desperately opposed the quarter-
ino" of my people, i.e. the permission to use their houses,
I had a camp pitched outside the villages.

On entering the territory of the large tribe of the
Baqua Putt, the north-east Bashilange, the larger con-
tinuous primaeval forest commenced, containing many
elephants and wild boars. It must be by error that
Stanley in his work ' In Darkest Africa ' has stated that
traces of buffaloes were found in the huge primaeval
forest mentioned by him ; and that his men, after many
days' journeys, had in their excitement shown him the
first bunch of grass as a mark of the near termination
of the forest. Where no ai'rass "tows the buffalo cannot

DIS2nSSAL OF OUR GUIDES 147

live, and, considering the slowness of these animals, they
could not rapidly change their abodes.

The small stingless bee, incessantly flying into one's
eyes and nose, was the same nuisance here as in the
forests on the Cassai. One should take care not to
squeeze one of these little insects on one's skin, as the
very aromatic; honey that the bee carries will immedi-
ately prove a bait for a hundred more bees.

The cool brooks, whose crystal waters were rippling
over pure white sand, daily afforded us a refreshing
bath in the deep shadow of the forest dome ; this is
most conducive to health, if taken before the evening
meal.

For some days we passed villages which seemed to
have been deserted some time before ; this we could not
account for, until at one of them we ascertained by the.
cadaverous smell of those who had died of small-pox
that this epidemic had been the cause of the deserted
dwellings.

On December 5 we again met people who, with
their arrows strung, were aiming at the van of our
caravan ; but who were pacified by the gift of some
beads and afterwards served us as guides. They were
savage and beggarly fellows, and, like all the people
of primaeval forests, timid and unsettled. As our guides
stopped every ten minutes, and always where the roads
crossed, so as to make greater demands if they were
to guide us farther, I at length sent them awa}^, and,
keeping on the broadest road, we soon made a large
village, whose inhabitants met us, ready for battle.
Cheering demonstrations soon opened the j^halanx, and,

L 2

148 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

making use of an old camp of a Bilie caravan, we found
comfortable shelter and food. The excited Bena
LuwuUa soon took off their bows and their huge bundles
of arrows and became accessible and trustful. On our
approach these natives had shown themselves like fierce
dogs, obliging us to the utmost patience ; but they
quickly became confiding and even friendly, which soon
made us forget our disagreeable reception.

We pitched our next camp near the Lubi, in the same
place where, in 1881, I had crossed the river with
Pogge ; this time, however, I chose the left bank, which
I wanted to follow down to where the river falls into
the Sankurru. From the opposite shore some Bassonge
approached, who from their appearance showed that
they belonged to a different tribe. I here ascertained
that Wolf, on sailing up the river, must have mistaken
the distance : he had not passed this point, and the
Bassonge said that the white man, whom on account of
his large beard they had taken for Pogge, had turned
back farther down. Excepting the sharp turns, which
are known to have nearly caused the loss of Wolf's
vessel, the river is navigable forty sea miles above. Near
Bena ChikuUa there is said to be a fall, up which the
Bena Lussambo, inhabitants of the Sankurru, go on
commercial expeditions.

I here found the home of the swimming lettuce, a
small plant, met with in great quantities in the high
seas many miles off the mouth of the Congo. These
vegetables, resembling miniature heads of lettuce, sprout
in the boggy source of a small brook ; by the loosening
of the roots, which hang in the water, they are severed

ON THE LUBI 149

from their birthplace, and, following the current, they
reach the sea after a journey of months.

Our path took us to the north, to the edge of the
left Lubi valley. From time to time there opened
a lovely view of the narrow river valley, 150 metres
deep.

Through its luxuriantly rich ground, the Lubi was
meandering between thickets of palms and fields.
Inviting as the tropical vegetation of the river may
appear, those who know the maze growing from out of
the dense, richly watered layer of humus, are glad that
they may admire it from a distance, for ' da unten ists
fiirchterlich,' pathless, damp, and swarming with
thousands of insects.

We stopped with the chief Mukeba, whom we had
known before, and found that here the Baqua Putt
had adopted many customs from their neighbours,
the Bassonge. Such was, contrary to the habit of the
Bashilange, the tilling of the fields by the men, while
the women only did the house-work.

Here 1 saw for the first time glazed vessels of earthen-
ware, which are made in the following manner. The
dark red bark of a tree is pounded and mixed with hot
water ; with this compound, whilst still hot, the ready-
baked pot is covered. By the time it is cold it is
turned into a brown-red glaze, which it retains even
after it is used on the fire.

On December 8 we pitched our camp in an open
place, close to the Lubi, opposite the villages of the
treacherous Bena Ngongo. This tribe, whose insolent
theft Pogge and I had to complain of in 1881, had

150 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

attacked and robbed Pogge on his return. In the
fio^ht Poo'oe had lost four of his men, but defeated the
robbers. They had, undoubtedly with a bad design, also
tried to induce Wolf to land when passing in the ' En
Avant.'

A few Ngongo soon appeared at the ferry opposite,
calling across to ask how much they were to pay for
their former offence, as they were convinced that I had
come to punish them. I mentioned my demand of two
elephant's tusks and ten goats, which they promised to
bring next morning. But first of all I asked for the
restoration of one of my Bashilange women whom they
had kept confined ever since.

Next morning a chief made his appearance on the
shore, and showed us two young slaves whom he offered
as pay in default of ivory, saying that the stolen woman
was no longer with his tribe, nor did they own any
ivory ; both were lies, as the natives on our side assured
me. I consequently refused the offered payment, and
threatened to make war next day, unless they brought
the woman before night. The Bena Ngongo, however,
seemed to feel quite secure, as our search for canoes
on this side had proved fruitless.

Discovering distinct traces of canoes among the
reeds of the opposite shore, I asked my men which of
them would be ready, covered by our guns, to swim
over and first of all secure one canoe. This was a very
hazardous undertaking, the closely wooded water's edge
opposite being lined by Ngongo archers, and the river
abounding with crocodiles. In accordance with their
habit on most similar occasions, Humba and Simao

SLMAO'S SWIMMING EXPEDITION 151

advanced, declaring that they would undertake this
dangerous expedition. I chose Simao, as he was the
better swimmer, and directed him to go up tlie bank,
then to swim over and drift along the edge of the reeds
up to an opening, into which he was to swim and search
for a canoe. Le Marinel, Bugslag, and myself would
meanwhile be ready with our rifles, so as to cover Simao
by our shots, should anything show in the opposite
thicket.

Simao did as he was bidden, and, unnoticed by
the Bena Ngongo, he reached the opening. With a
knife between his teeth he so worked himself into the
reeds as to re-appear soon with a 'canoe which, though
far below, he safely brought to shore. The hostile
natives had not noticed our design before the canoe was
in the middle of the stream, beyond the reach of their
arrows ; the reeds had intercepted their view.

Complete darkness having set in, we explored the
opposite shore with the canoe, bringing two more over
with us.

Next morning, before daylight, I crossed over,
accompanied by Le Marinel and 200 men, marching
through deserted villao-es to the laro-est anions' them,
situated on a hill 300 metres high. The head of our
caravan hit upon a troop of Ngongo, two of whom had
been killed and one wounded. The village being burnt
down, we walked in several divisions through the moun-
tainous, closely wooded territory of the Ngongo along
the river. I heard reports in several places, but when-
ever we saw a village set on fire we took it as a sign
that the enemy had been defeated. Towards evenino^

152

THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

all the troops, according to orders, assembled at the
ferry. Six prisoners, several goats, and many weapons
were taken, among the latter the large state-axe of the
chief, and the bis^ drum whose sound could be heard for

SIMAO, THE G.VLLANT SWIMIIEU

miles. The Bena Ngongo had collected in a large camp,
which was discovered by two of my troops, but,
induced by our superior force, they had taken flight
into the gigantic Mukubu forest which we remembered
from former times.

A WOUNDED THIEF 153

I considered this expedition expedient, since we
heard everywhere on the way that the Bena Ngongo
had boasted of the attack on Pogge, and had inter-
preted as cowardice Pogge's kindness in surrendering
the prisoners.

The march to the Bena Jileta was exceedingly ex-
hausting for our carriers. The deep slopes, thickly
covered with primaaval forests, so disj)ersed the caravan
during the uninterrupted march from the early morning
till about 4 p.m., that the last of my people, with their
strength nearly wasted, did not reach the camp till dark.
The Bena Jileta were, on the north, bounded by the
Bakuba, the Bena Ikongo tribe, with their chief Fumo
NkoUe, whom Wolf had visited on the Sankurru.

Our sleep next night was interrupted by a disturb-
ance in the camp. One of my men was brought in
wounded. An arrow had pierced his breast with such
force that the point was bent on one of his ribs. With
great exertion, they had withdrawn the barbed arrow,
thus causing the deep wound to bleed profusely, which,
the arrow being poisoned, was very beneficial. I never-
theless took the precaution to apply ammonia both in-
ternally and externally. The wounded man had left the
camp and gone into a potato-field on robbery intent,
when, without seeing anyone, he had been pierced with
an arrow and taken flight. The thieving propensity
of the Mushilanoje havino- caused the act of violence, I
did not make the natives responsible for it. They
thought one of the Bena Ngongo, on whom we had
made war the day before, had followed us to take his
opportunity to revenge himself.

154 THEOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Next day we descended the wooded hills into the
valley, pitching our camp in a large opening close to the
confluence of the Lubi and the Sankurru. The dark
brown Lubi, here of a breadth of 100 metres, joins the
tawny waters of the Sankurru-Lubilash at this place,
presenting a tranquilly majestic aspect and opening a
distant view downward ; very pleasant to the eye after
the monotonous march during the last few days in
the prima3val forest. We soon saw the large beautiful
canoes of the Bena Lussambo coming, strongly manned,
from the opposite side towards us.

The brother of the chief Ilunga, named Mutomba,
who had made friends with Wolf, brought us presents,
promising to be ready next day with all his canoes to
let us cross. To make sure, I kept one of them on this
side, leavino- a sentinel on the shore.

During the night several canoes approached, coming
from the Lubi, and filled with armed warriors, probably
the Bena Xgongo, bent on revenge. They, however,
took flight as soon as the sentinels be^-an to fire.

We had now reached an interesting point. The
mouth of the Lubi marks the north-eastern boundary of
the Bashilange, tlie north-western of the Ngongo, whom
we could not number among any of the larger tribes,
as their language differs from all the tongues spoken
round about. Xorth of the mouth of the Lubi lived the
Bakuba, who were, as on the Lulua, mixed with Bakete ;
east of the Sankurru the Lussambo, who perhaps may
be numbered among the Bassongo-Mino. It was most
interesting here to meet again with Bakete. These
people must have been settled where the Bashilange live

THE BENA NGONGO TRYING TO APPROACH US 155

to-day, and been dispossessed by the latter, who, accord-
ing to universal tradition, are said to have come from
the south. Part of the Bakete live in the south-east,
a little south of Katende, on the right bank of the
Lulua ; others live north-west of the Bashilange, north
of the confluence of the Lulua and the Cassai ; and
here, close to the Sankurru, we again met Bakete.

The commerce with the Lussambo, on account of
the unheard-of prices they charged, presented difiiculties
which caused many disputes in the camp.

Durino- the next niaht the Bena Na;ono-o again at-
tempted to approach our camp with a hostile intent, but
were betrayed to my sentinel b}^ the friendly natives,
and, findino- themselves discovered, thev took to flio;lit.

150 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

CHAPTER VI

PEIMJEVAL FOEEST THE HOME OF THE DWARFS

DEPOPULATED COUNTRIES

The Lussambo — Cheating — Beautiful river scenery — First news of the
Arabs — Primaeval forest — Batetela — Batua, the so-called dwarfs
— Negotiations with the Batua — Nothing but primaeval forest —
Christmas in the dark — -With the Bena Mona — Murder with poisoned
arrows — Critical moment — War — Building of a bridge — Lukalla — •
Hunger — Missed an anaconda — Bad reports about the countries
before us — -The ravaging slave-hunters — The exterminating Arab —
Duties of the civilised world in protection of the defenceless Africans
— Extermination of a great nation — With Lupiuigu and Mona Kakesa
— Sale of ammunition — The large town of the Peshi desolated.

According to promise, Mutomba appeared at six
o'clock with canoes of twenty metres in length by one
metre two centimetres in width and fonr centimetres
in depth, which are very dexterously pushed standing
with the lono: oars that we found in use on the Cassai.
The end of the tongue of land between the confluence
of the Lubi and the Sankurru was a suitable place for a
station which might soon become imjDortant. From this
point both rivers and the apparently much-frequented
ferry may be superintended.

I had the next camp pitched behind a belt of wood
fifty metres deep, stretching along the shore. While
we were crossing the river some Bassonge had appeared,

THE LUSSAMBO

157

CROSSING THE LUKALLA

commissioned by the
Bena JSTgongo to ran-
som their prisoners in
exchange for goats and
salt.

"We ascertained
here — as Wolf had
already informed us —

that the mouth of the Lomami was north of the territory
of the Lussambo, who only lived along the river, while
the country farther inland was said to be nothing
but uninhabited primeval forests. Beyond the Lomami
lived the Bassongo-Mino, and to the east the savage
Batetela, behind the forests which extend through many
days' journeys and are peopled by roaming Batua.
Everything corroborated Wolf's observations. I bought
a number of articles beautifully carved in wood, which
were intended to complete Wolf's collection at Berlin.
Mutomba engaged himself henceforward to guide us as.

158 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

far as the Batetela country, furnishing us with a number
of names with such confident assurance that my inter-
preter Kashawalla asked me to pay his fee beforehand.
It struck me forcibly that when we started along
the Sankurru we took a N.N.E. direction, which proves
that the river between here and Katchich, where I
discovered it in 1881, must make a strong curve. We
passed through the dreadful labyrinth of the primaeval
forest — the guide pretending that there was no better
road — and, in spite of the people in front constantly
working with axe and knife, we proceeded but slowly.
After a short distance Mutomba refused to go on, but
offered to supply two of his men as guides. With
astonishing impudence he denied his having promised
to accompanj?- us ; nor did the presents he had received,
and which greatly exceeded what was reasonal)le, at all
•come up to his expectation. Le Marinel was so indig-
nant at this that he almost knocked tlie man down.
The latter would have well deserved this punishment,
but we had to keep in mind that the Bashilange had
to return the same way, and I had to do my utmost to
keep their road free from obstacles. Le Marinel's indig-
nation vividly reminded me of my years of apprentice-
ship to African travelling ; I had by this time begun to
resemble my then instructor, the experienced old Pogge.
We halted, much fatigued, in the middle of the forest
close to the river, and now it became obvious to us
whv the cunning Mutomba had brought us this way,
for soon the canoes of the Lussambo appeared. Once
more they found an opportunity to sell provisions for
lovely beads. The chief himself soon put in an

2IAGNIFICENT RIVER SCENERY 159

appearance, saluting us in a pacific way as if nothing
had happened, which exceedingly amused me and again
greatly provoked Le Marinel.

After two days' fatiguing march through primaeval
forests we reached the first Bassongo or Bassonje, a large
tribe extending to the Lulua, and apparently related to
the Wassonga or Wasongora, so that north of the Baluba
people we were again able to ascertain the existence of
a widely scattered tribe. It is certainly more difficult
to ascertain the relationship of these people than of the
Baluba, because the latter seem to have everywhei-e
turned out and extirpated the aborigines, the Batua ;
while amono' the Bassongo and Wasono-ora a great
many dwarfs are still found, who in many places have
mixed with the latter.

From the highly situated village of the Bena
Wapambue we had an open view into the wide valley
of the Sankurru, which just here forms a curve at an
angle of above 90°. The wide, splendid river flows
past a sandstone wall, nearly 100 metres high, whose
magnificent and brilliant colouring is relieved by the
surrounding dark tints of the primeval forest, which,
with the evening sun shining upon it, seems steeped in
deep purple. This beautiful scener}^ seen in such a light,
might be the subject of a magnificent painting. When
I saw it I greatly regretted, as I had often done in this
continent, not having an artist with me who might give
people at home an idea of the splendour of colour that
may be produced here by the evening lights.

A lively movement of canoes, most likely caused bv
our presence, took place on the smooth surface of the

160

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

river, wliicli flowed about 200 metres below us. The
kind old chief Soka Kalonda, who had visited Pogge and
me in 1881 when staying with his upper chief Katchich,
as well as the dense population, who were wholly un-
armed, behaved exceedingly well. We once more felt
quite comfortable and without need to take measures
for our safety, which always depresses the mood of a
caravan. Our people carried on peaceable intercourse

VALLEY OF THE SANKURKU

with the neighbouring villages, buying provisions at a
cheap rate. Numbers of people were swarming in and
out of the camp to see us, and all the chiefs from
the environs who visited us left us content; as, being
so well-disposed, we were easily induced to exchange
presents. Our former deportment and the recent punish-
ment of the Bena Ngongo had greatly conduced to our
beins^ so kindlv received.

The soil here is very rich ; the manioc plants attain

ETHNOLOGICAL ARTICLES. — HAMPER, DRUM, SHIELD OF THE BASSONGE ;
HATCHETS AND SPEARS OF THE BALUBA

1G2 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

the size of trees — indeed, we saw manioc roots of the
thickness of a man's arm. Everything that grew in
the primeval forest showed a similar luxuriance. The
river also adds to the variety of food of the Wapambue,
who offered a great number of different kinds of fish for

sale.

We here learned that the Bassonge chief Zappu Zapp,
whom Wolf had met on the Sankurru, was not slave-
hunting, as the latter had supposed, but had been settled
in this'neighbourhood since 1882, having been turned
out of his old home by the rapacious expeditions of
Tibbu Tibb's slave-hunters. We were also told that
Mona Kakesa and Mona Lupungu had emigrated from
the south-east, and that only the Bassonge chief Zappu
stood his ground. This was the first report of inroads
of the Arabs west of the Lomami, whose extended
ravaging expeditions we were soon to experience.

On resuming our march we were first of all con-
ducted in a north-westerly direction, until, dismissing
the apparently idiotic guide, I turned farther east,
following a broad path. Soon we were met by natives
with provisions, who led us to their village, surrounded
by thick palm groves and impenetrable hedges. They
were people of the tribe of the Batempa, who are likewise
Bassono-e. The remainder of the caravan did not arrive
till late in the evening, having been delayed by a brook
thirty metres broad and three metres deep that could
be crossed only on the trunk of a tree. As was formerly
the case among the Bassonge, we frequently met here
with albinos, who with their red and white complexion,
so different from the negro type, are frightfully ugly.

THE BAD IN GO 163

Our way led across undulating prairie, bordered
on the left by immeasurable primeval forest, whicli,
as our guides said, extended without interruption to
the Lomami. Behind us we could still distinguish the
course of the Sankurru by a streak of fog which, as far as
the eye could reach, covered the ground like a gigantic
snake, stretching from south to north. The deeply
indented brooks were bordered by white sandstone ; the
crystal water was cool and. of pleasant taste.

On passing some miserable villages of the lean little
Badingo, we found the population to be evidently a
mixture of Batua. The Batua are said to live in the large
priniEEval forest, which we were warned not to enter ;
the roads, whicli mostly consist of elephant paths, being
very much grown over, and leading through many
ravines, which are very difficult to pass. But as I did
not want to turn too far to the south towards the route
of my former travels, I took on the 21st a more northerly
direction, which led us into dark primseval forests
abounding with lianas, where, before coming upon some
villages, we had to cut roads which were entirely blocked
up by felled trees. Close behind these barricades, some
natives, painted black and red, and ready with their
bows, stopped our passage. As it was of consequence
to me to open peaceable intercourse with the timid
savages and to acquire guides, I halted before we
reached the villages and pitched a camp. The people
called themselves Quitundu, also Betundu, and the
village was called Backashocko. They belonged to the
Batetela, mixed with Bassonge who had fled into the
forests. The shape of the huts was like the Batetela's :

M 2

164 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

small stems, rudely shaped to a point, were roughly
joined by trellis-work and covered with grass. Hides
and stuffs made from bark covered the hips of the
Betundu, whose hair, plaited in two or more stiff tails,
stood off their heads like horns.

I was greatly pleased to see in the afternoon some
Batua of pure quality, real beauties. The people were
short, of a brown-yellowish colour, or rather light
yellow, with a brown shadowing. They were long-
limbed and thin, though not angular, and wore neither
ornaments, paintings, nor head-dresses. I was chiefly
struck with their beautiful and clever eyes, lighter than
those of the Batetela, and their delicate rosy lips, by no
means pouting like those of the negro. The demeanour
of our new friends, whom I treated with particular kind-
ness, was not savage like that of the Batetela, but rather
timidly modest, I may say maidenly shy. The little men
on the whole reminded me of portraits of the Bushmen
of the south of this continent. Their arms consisted of
small bows and delicate arrows, which, before using,
they dip into a small calabash filled with poison which
they carry fastened in their belts.

By means of great patience and a continual en-
couraoini:^ smile, and by forcino- mv voice to the most
gentle intonation I could manage, I succeeded in
communicating with them, and catching some of their
idiomatic expressions, which entirely differed from those
of the other tribes. Amongst others it struck me that
here, in the midst of the Batetela, who for the word

* fire ' have the term ' kalo,' they had the expression

* Kapia,' the same as our Bashilange, with whom they

AMONG THE BATUA 165

have a certain softness of language in common, some-
thing of the singing modulation of our Saxons. Does
not this circumstance also correspond with my suppo-
sition, that the Bashilange, the most northern of the
Baluba people, must be largely mixed with Batua ? In
the same way I felt justified in the above-named suppo-
sition by the similarity of the chief pigment, their delicate
frame, their rather long limbs, &c.

For each word the Batua told me I gave them a
bead, in giving them which I had to be careful not to
touch them, for my coming near them made them start
with fear. Bugslag approached them, kindly talking
the while, armed with a long pole which he raised
behind one of the dwarfs ; then he suddenly made his
hand oiide down until he touched the dwarf's head. As
if struck by lightning, the little savage took to his heels ;
but we succeeded later on in taking the measurements of
some Batua who came to visit us, all varying from 1.45
to 1.40 metre. I never saw any women among them.
The difference between the young and the old men was
very striking. While the young people, with their
rounded figures, their fresh complexions, and above all
their graceful, easy, quiet movements, made an agree-
able impression, the old might literally be called pain-
fully ugly. The reason of which seems to be the poor
food and the savage and roving life in the primo3val
forest. In consequence of their extreme leanness, the
deeply wrinkled skin of the body assumed the colour
of parchment. The long limbs were perfectly withered,
and the head appeared disproportionately large on
account of the thinness of the neck. The people

166

THROUGH EQUATOEIAL AFBIGA

conversed rapidly and with much emphasis : the young
greatly respecting the word of the old.

WITH BUGSLAG AND THE DWAEFS

Here, as I had everywhere occasion to observe,
the Batua were, on the whole, not so much despised

THE HOMES OF THE BATUA 1G7

by the Bassonge tribes as by the Bakiba ; they were
very much feared on account of the poison of their
arrows, which was said to be very fatal in its con-
sequences. We were told that the Batua were soon
going to kill the powerful chief Zappu Zapp, who
had made himself master throughout this neighbour-
hood.

The real home of the Batua is the vast dark primaeval
forestj which in all seasons yields a variety of fruits —
perhaps only known to and eaten by them — roots, fungi
or herbs, and especially meat, the latter chiefly of lesser
and lower animals, as rats, nocturnal monkeys, bats,
a number of rodentia, many of which may be un-
known, now and then a wild boar, a monkey, and by
chance even an elephant. Other game is not found in
the primaeval forest, but of smaller animals there is all
the more abundance. Caterpillars, cicadas, white ants,
and chrysalises also offer an abundant change to the
Mutua (singular form).

Henceforward we frequently met Batua, without,
however, being able to make any observations, the little
folks being too much reserved to come forward at all.
On the morning of our departure, some Batua ap-
proached me with a trifling present of manioc roots,
and when I smilingly refused it, they pursued me, im-
ploring me to accept it ; upon my granting their wish,
they went away contented. On the previous day I had
given these Batua some small presents in the hope of
augmenting my stock of words ; they evidently acted
in this way under the impression that my presents, if
they did not return them, would give me some power

168 THROUGH EQUATOIilAL AFRICA

over them. Such mistrust is quite a mark of the
genuine savage.

The deep quiet of the primasval forest, which con-
tinually put obstacles in our way, thus causing much
work and trouble, was scarcely interrupted by the note
of a bird. I rarely remember to have heard the piercing
cry of the helmet-bird of an evening, or the noise pro-
duced by the rustling wings of the rhinoceros-bird.
Only the white ants were incessantly making a rustling
sound at their work. Any attempt at astronomical
work had to be abandoned under this never- opening
leafy roof.

In the place where the Lomami and the Sankurru
separate, we found that, though they still called them-
selves Betundu, the natives' huts differed in shape.
They were of the same shape as we had formerly seen
among the Bassonge, which indicated that the latter,
who had fled from the south, were predominant here.
During the night, apprehending an attack on our part,
the Betundu left the villages in our vicinity. The
brutal savageness of these forest people induced me to
command that each man of the caravan should carry
his own gun, and not, as the Bashilange frequently did,
fasten it to the bao-aaoe or oive it to the women to
carry. Our good sons of the hemp did not present a
very warlike appearance. They chiefly preferred to
proceed on their way in continual chatter, the large
hemp-pipe on their backs, sticks in their hands, and
entertaining the idea, very flattering to me, that Kabassu
Babu would take care of them, and that under his
guidance they would come to no harm.

THE SAVAGE BETUNDU 109

First among the more important brooks which fall
into the Lomami was the Luidi, which I had crossed near
its source with Pogge. Want of food began to be felt
by my large caravan, the scanty population of this forest
only cultivating their own necessary food in the small
clearings, which were, with great difficulty, denuded of
roots. The purchase of provisions was likewise made
difficult by the savageness of the Betundu. They took
an endless time to decide whether or not they would give
anything for the price offered. A piece of cloth went
from hand to hand. It almost irritated us to watch the
intercourse of these savages amongst each other. Like
wolves, they contended for some article that attracted
their fancy. Their every movement was passionate, their
glance shy ; their demeanour resembled that of a wild
beast in its cage. In truth, these people had grown up
as it were in a cage, for this vast primaeval forest, which
never permits a glim^^se of the sky, can be compared to
nothing else ; the horizon is narrowed to very short
distances. A chief, who during the sale was on the
point of darting his spear at one of my people, was
thrown down by the ever-ready Simao, the gallant
swimmer of the Lubi ; he (Simao) broke his spear, and
did not let him go until he had "iven him a sound
thrashing. I am sorry to say that this did not tend
to induce them to bring more provisions ; they even
threatened to bring the Batetela down upon us.

We plodded on and on in the dark through the
villages of the Bena Piari Kai, the Balonda and Bakialo,
where, after the flight of the natives, w^e were forced to
take what provisions we could find in the huts and fields.

170 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

But even this, added to the many roots and fruits which
the Bashilange fetched from the forest, provided us only
with the barest necessaries.

Now, following the only road, we turned farther
south, and on the 2oth we kept Christmas, the festival
of the light of Christianity, in the midst of the dark
primseval forest and dark paganism.

The natives' manner soon became timid and savage,
to such a degree that there was no possibility of getting
hold of any name. Those we questioned were contend-
ing about some present, quarrelling and fighting like
ravenous dogs, and we could get nothing out of them.
Here we found the most wonderful articles used as head-
dresses. One of them was quite consonant with canni-
balism, being withered fingers cutofi'at the .second joint;
these, fastened to wooden pins, pointed upwards from
out of the thick mass of hair. As I had formerly
repeatedly found among many tribes of anthropophagi,
they cut off and throw away the fingers as well as the
toes before beoinninsf their loathsome feast.

At length, on the 2Gth, the dense forest was ever
and anon interrupted by clearings. In the evening, after
a thirteen days' march through the primaeval forest, we
joyfully greeted an open space. We encamped at the
boundary of the Bena Mona tribe, close to the village
Kiagongo on the river Lobbo, with its great volume of
water. It was long since we had last heard the leopard's
voice durinix the nioht ; it was a week since we had
last seen goats, as the inhabitants of the wood rear the
fowl as their only domestic animal. We had done now
with always being caught by straggling plants or roots.

DEATH OF A BASHILANGE 171

with incessantly creeping and squeezing between trees
and trunks, with chmbing steep slopes, and stopping to
cut our way with the axe. Our clothes and those of our
people were nothing but rags ; many of our Bashilange
had even been compelled to procure skins, the bits of
cloth on their hips not even affording the most necessary
covering. The fugitive natives did not return, though
they kept near.

According to one of my Bashilange who had climbed
a palm to gather nuts, some natives were shooting at a
target, and were only scared away by the appearance
of my people in search of food. We had to possess
ourselves of victuals, as there was no one there to
sell them, and my people were quite exhausted by their
starvation in the forest. In the night we were wakened
by screaming and vigorous shooting, and on my arriving
on the spot to prohibit useless firing in the dark, two
wounded Bashilange were brought to me. One had
been struck by an arrow, which had entered the joint
of his knee ; the other, a woman, had only her arm
grazed. After applying ammonia, the wound of the
latter was dressed and effectually cured. The man,
however, after Le Marinel had succeeded in withdraw-
ing the barbed arrow, which was quite bent, died in
dreadful convulsions five minutes after being wounded.
We thus . learned the powerful effects of the native
poison. On the same night we buried him and a
Mushilange who had died of inflammation of the luii^s
in the middle of the camp, in the hope that the natives
might not find a trace of the grave and have the
triumph of having killed one of our party ; and, on

172 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

the other hand, we wished to prevent the corpses pro-
vidincf them with a welcome meaL

Early in the morning we started, and soon met
twenty armed men who stopped our passage, ready to
throw spears or shoot. In spite of last night's treachery
I began to negotiate with them, since I wanted to learn
at last where we were, and what direction we had to
take in order to avoid the large primosval forest which
was looming round about us. The Bena Mona were
induced to walk on before us, and I succeeded, though
with great difficulty, in preventing my indignant soldiers
and Bashilange from firing at them. Armed men meet-
ing us incessantly, the leading troop increased more
and more.

The outward appearance of the Bena Mona reminded
us of the Bassongo-Mino ; they were tall, slight, and
yet muscular, and, like the latter, chiefly wore clothes
made from the palm, dyed black,^ with the same little
handkerchiefs as a head-dress. They were mostly
armed with strong bows and large bundles of long
arrows, very rarely with a spear, and they frequently
carried beautiful knives and the war-axes known to us
from the Bassonge. The people were savages without
a fixed abode, and were evidently feared as warriors,
for I remember that the savage Bena Mona were often
mentioned with great awe.

We soon saw that our guides were moving on
towards one of the largest villages on the summit of a
hill in front of us, a place that seemed suitable for

' A beautifid black colour is given to all materials, including Avood,
by burying the article in question for a certain time in the boggy ground
at the source of certain brooks.

ETHNOLOGICAL ARTICLES : IDOL OF THE BALUBA EEOM THE LUALABA — BELT OF THE
BENECKI — PLUJIES OF THE BASSONGO-MINO — PIPE AND TOBACCO OF THE BENA
KIAMBA- C.UiABASHES

WITH THE BEN A 21 ON A 173

action, as from the behaviour of the savagre Bena Mona
and the excitement of my people it had become obvious
to me that we should not oet off without beinsf com-
pelled to use force. Before reaching the village, shots
were actually fired at the rear of the caravan, which did
not keep me from proceeding onwards and upwards
until the report was brought from behind that Bugslag
had been cut off with the rear. I made Le Marinel halt,
let the caravan close in, and with a few of the soldiers
turned back ; but presently I met Humba, who informed
me that the difficulty at the back was settled, and that
Bugslag was marching on. At the same time I saw from
the dark clouds of smoke that my soldiers, after repulsing
the pursuing enemy, had set the farms on fire. Bugslag,
as I learned later, had been in the act of buying a
fowl from a native whom he met on the road, and while
he was bargaining, an approaching troop had shot an
arrow at him. My party had at once returned the
attack, and the natives, leaving eight of their people
mortally wounded behind them, had retreated to their
village, whither they were pursued by my people.

In spite of the enemy's having increased in the van to
above 100 men, I o-ave the siaiial to march on. The
guides, who had not learnt what had occurred behind,
were continually running before us, evidently delaying
a further attack until their numbers should be a match
for our forces, which they could now survey. About
200 warriors lay in wait at the entrance of the village,
and when our o-uides had come to an agreement with
them, negotiations, unintelligible to us, were carried on
without our beino- able to move forwards.

174 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

Naturally the caravan gradually collected, forming
a crowd, at tlie van of which Le Marinel and I
were halting on our bulls, ready for battle, while
Buo-slasf was in the rear. The women, according to

DO 'CD

their nature, had crouched together in the midst of the
crowd like a scared flock of sheep, while those who
carried arms had put down their loads and stood ready
towards the outside. Armed people incessantly drew
near from all sides, and in a short time we were closely
hemmed in. The natives, ready with their bows and
arrows, and their spears, were yet undecided as to
what they had better do, while my people were waiting
for the word to fire. Whichever party were to use
their arms first must be successful ; neither spear nor
arrow could miss our dense crowd at two metres dis-
tance. A shot from our guns would likewise be sure
to hit one of the savages, closely surrounding us as
they did, and, so as not to miss the advantage of being
the first, I was on the point of giving the command to
fire, when the circle in front of me opened a little, and
an elderly man, who, like the formerly-mentioned Bas-
songe chief, called himself Zappu Zapp, walked up
to me.

I told him that I intended to encamp farther on,
and that, if his people were to bring fowls or victuals
generally, the Bena Mona might earn many a fine piece
of cloth and many a bead before the day was over. I
was in hopes that the chief, with the object of waiting
for a larger number of his party, would give us this
respite, which was necessary to me that I might pre-
pare for battle, and particularly that I might distribute

MY INTEBVIEW WITH ZAPPU-ZAPP 175

the dwindling ammunition. My haughty tone, and
especially my repeated laughter while conversing with
Le Marinel, may have conveyed to the natives the im-
pression that I did not regard them as so very formidable.
During the conversation I had my gun ready before
me on the saddle, the muzzle directed to the chief and
my finger on the trigger, so that at the least sign of
their using a weapon, my vis-a-vis would have fallen.

The whole crowd now began to move, and on dif-
ferent roads to the right and left messengers were
despatched, probably only to call the neighbours for the
impending good catch. I had arrived close to the place
where I wanted to halt when again violent shooting was
heard at the end of the rather lenothened caravan where
Bugslag was riding. It was now all over with our pacific
intrigues, for those running in front and at our side
seized arms, and arrows shot past, so that I even laid
low some of those who were in front. The rest I left
to Le Marinel at the van, hurrying backward myself,
since the full force of the Bena Mona seemed to be at-
tacking us. The firing ceased once more before I reached
the rear, and, finding a load of cartridges in the caravan,
I opened it and sent ammunition to Le Marinel and
Bugslag. Only at intervals shots were fired at the Bena
Mona, who were fleeing in all directions. Then clouds
of smoke were seen ascending everywhere — a sign of the
presence of the Bashilange.

I now gave the signal to close in, aiad, in order to get
out of the reach of the hostile villao'es scattered round
about us, I marched on unassailed. Still reinforce-
ments of savages advanced in crowds, who, on our

176 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

approach, turned and fled. On the way we passed a
village nearly 2,000 metres long, deeply shaded by oil
palms, where our people, to their great delight, found
corn.

On account of the intense heat I encamped near the
edge of a brook in a place which could easily be surveyed.
According to rumour about twenty natives had been
killed, while on our side only wounds were reported. I
had the camp closed entirely, placing concealed outposts
round about, so as to protect ourselves during the night
from a treachery similar to that of the preceding day.
Towards evening troops of natives were seen everywhere
near, but, taught by Le Marinel and Bugslag's rifles,
they kept at a safe distance. In a large circle
round the outposts I had fires of dry wood kindled,
which lighted the foreground within fifty feet through-
out the night. Consequently our night's rest was
only disturbed through the noise I made in waking
some sleeping outposts when visiting the sentinels.

At the first dawn we started, and turned our backs
on the country of the unfriendly Bena Mona. We soon
reached a labyrinth of villages again, which, however,
were deserted ; but, the way leading too much to the
south, we turned and found another open road to the
east, which messengers whom we had sent out for the
purpose on the previous day had not found. One
never can rely on Bantu negroes, even the best of
them, and a European, travelling with such people, has
to be always at hand himself, if he wants to feel con-
vinced that important work is being properly carried out.
In spite of yesterday's excitement, I had found many an

WITH THE BEN A MONA 111

outpost asleep at night, and even my best men liacl over-
looked the large open road to the east. The beautiful
broad path on the open ridge of hi]ls made marching a
real enjoyment after our experiences in the primaeval
forest.

After fatiguing labour we succeeded in building a
bridge across the Lukulla, which, in a succession of
falls, rushed along over rubble stones. As the trunk
thrown across made great caution necessary, the cross-
ing lasted until evening. Twice some of the jDeople
tumbled off the bridge ; they were rescued, but lost
their guns and our provision box, containing our whole
stock of Crocker}^ and our last bottle of brandy. I
myself ran down stream, and diving, searched for the
hamper, but in vain ; only by chance I recovered one
of the guns. The Bena Mona had been shrewd enough
to consider the crossing of the river as a favourable
moment for an assault ; but as on their march they
lighted upon a barricade of trees, by which as a forti-
fication I had joined two jungles, where I had placed a
sentinel, they turned before they were fired at.

We Europeans, having been without rest day and
night lately, with very scanty food, felt great bodily
weakness, though excitement kept us alive. Our cara-
van began to suffer* very much, the famine having
lasted too long already. A great deal of illness pre-
vailed in consequence of the poor nourishment. Some
of the men staggered with hunger and weakness while
marching ; and unless we came upon inhabited districts,
the open savannah woidd be more ominous than the
primoaval forest, where our people had after all found

178 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

many fruits and fungi to satisfy tlieir craving hunger.
In such districts it is by no means easy to maintain a
body of nearly 900 people. On setting out I had calcu-
lated upon the same state of affairs which I had for-
merly experienced with Pogge scarcely one degree
farther south, and which would have made it possible
even to travel with 10,000 men. The marrow of palms
was now nearly our exclusive food, but even this was
obtained only with the greatest difficulty. In the first
place the strong tough tree had to be felled, after which
with great trouble the heart of the tree, which is under
the crown, had to be cut out with an axe.

The Bena Mona, who inhabit this barren country,
are by nature a very wicked tribe ; I may say they
were the first nation which, still unmolested by slave-
hunters, opposed us in so decidedly hostile a manner.
The Bena Mona had, it is true, already experienced the
ravages of white men, in the shape of the Arabs, who
were in possession of guns ; and it is possible that they
put the same construction upon our motives, and that
this gave birth to their hostile disposition towards us.

On account of the number of cross roads and the
dark primaeval forest looming before us to the east and
north, I marched southward up the Lubefu river.
We hoped soon to make a camp in a place where we
might get food, for the spectre of hunger was seriously
menacing my gradually weakening caravan. On the
29th we reached some villages of the Bassange, which
we well remembered to have passed before. Since the
rumour of our skirmish with the Bena Mona had pre-
ceded us, the natives fled before us, taking everything with

MY TRYING TO SHOOT A SNAKE

179

them ; and only a few of my people succeeded in possess-
ing themselves of trifling quantities of food, which, in the

had been
le ft behind.
Our attempts
to supply our
wants by the chase
remained without suc-
cess, the country being
bare of game. My men dis-
/^/ covered a huge p3'thon snake
which they found coiled up in a
bush, and fetched me to shoot it, the
Bashilange being fond of its flesh. I
pointed the muzzle of my gun at the head of the
anaconda at a distance of one metre, before, awaking
from her apathy, she noticed me. I aimed and missed

N 2

180 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

tlie head of the gigantic reptile, which, after the re-
port, disappeared in the thicket like lightning. The
Bashilange, who knew the snre aim of mv gun, regarded
my bad shot as a fetish of the Bena Mona.

"We could not be far off my route of IS SI when we
reached some provisionally l^uilt villages of the Bassonge
under their chief Mona Kassongo. Kassongo had fled
here from some hordes of Tibbu Tibb's, and rambling
patrols, making use of the dark night, were returning to
their former homes, to fetch what food they could from
their fields. At any rate, we got a few provisions, which
gave us hope and courage for the future. Kassongo
came to see me with about sixty gun-carriers, complain-
ing of the dreadful visitation of the southern districts
by Tibbu Tibb's hordes. He told me that the powerful
tribe of the Benecki was entirely annihilated, and that
Mona Lupungu, my former old friend, had turned to
the south, where, with the other greatest chief of the
Kassonge, Mona Kakesa, he had taken refuge in the
Baluba country from the murdering and devastating
expedition of the Arabs. Kassongo had been here for
two months, hoping for the departure of the slave-
hunters, and always ready to flee to the north, towards
the primoBval forests of the Batetela. We got so many
contradictory reports from all directions about the war
which — as I well knew — was raging in the southern
countries, that we did not know what to believe.
We no longer found regular villages, but only scat-
tered troops of different Bassonge tribes, who, partly
knowing me, supplied us with provisions as well
as thev could under their straitened circumstances.

A SAD XEW YEAB'S EVE 181

Chiefs visited me, bringing presents of slaves, request-
ing that later on I would exchange them for goats, they
not being able to provide me Tvith a goat, nor even a
fowl.

I learned, as a matter of great anxiety, that many of
my people had sold powder and percussion-caps in order
to obtain provisions. This was almost the only article
of exchange demanded by the poor hunted natives, as
being their only means to defend themselves against
their formidable enemies.

The Xew Year's Eve of 1886 found us three Euro-
peans of the caravan thinking of the future with great
apprehension. Le Marinel, in honour of the day, and
in order to divert our grave anxiety, brought forth
a bottle of rum — which, however, in our present
weakened state of health agreed with us very badly.
Full of care, we saw the sun rise on the first day of
the year of 1887. To the north and east loomed the
dark primaeval forest, whose terrors were stiU fresh in
our memories ; to the south and west everything was
said to be depopulated for a long distance. Eound
about us were encamped 900 people, weak with starva-
tion and fatigue. Our o-oods were of no avail, nor
even our numbers, for eatables were nowhere to be
found or bought. In low spirits, therefore, we continued
our journey to the east-south-east, as far as Kafungoi,
where we found Pogge's and my route. But how
much altered I Where formerly thousands of Benecki,
the inhabitants of the strikingly beautiful and rich
town, had joyfully welcomed us ; where we had
revelled in eniovmeuts such as an African countrv, in-

182 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFEICA

habited by industrious natives, has to offer ; where in
peace and amity we had been conducted from village to
village — we now found a waste, depopulated by murder
and conflagration. The same huge groves of palm trees,
which formerly had marked the town of the happy
Benecki, welcomed us to their shadow. Only dismal
silence, here and there interrupted by the chirping of
the ploceid^, had given way to the welcoming sounds
of the former harmless inhabitants. The niches in the
palm thicket on both sides of the straight roads, which
three years ago had been filled with the tidy farms of
the Benecki, were now overgrown with grass of a
man's height, whilst here and there a burnt pole, a
bleached skull, and broken crockery were reminis-
cences of the existence of our former friends. Where
were the thousands and thousands of the industrious
people who through their great numbers seemed
secure from any hostile assaults ? I shuddered with
sadness at this spectacle, at the remembrance of the
happiest days of our first journey, which we had enjoyed
with the then quite unknown good-natured savages.
I turned quite hot with a sense of wrath and internal
revolt against the murderous breed of avaricious slave-
hunters who had called forth this dreadful devastation.
Among the palms in some banana thickets, which had
escaped the destructive hands of the gangs of robbers,
my people fortunately found some potato fields covered
with grass, where they dug out some huge potatoes,
which provided them with most necessarj^ food. Palm
nuts, the marrow of palms, sweet potatoes and unripe
bananas were to form our onh" food for some time to

jMMiJlkJljH LiLi rJj .J A

AT KAFUNGOI

ABOUT THE ABABS 183

come, for during many days' journeys we only found a
repetition of what we had obtained at Kafungoi.

I must anticipate in order to tell, what I learned
later, how this dreadful fate had come upon countries
once so happy. The Arab Tibbu Tibb and Famba, the
latter of whom had formerly resided west of the Lomami,
intent on trade rather than robbery, had fallen out about
the right to these districts. The far more powerful Tibbu
Tibb had sent his people, reinforced by hosts of canni-
bals of the Bena Kalebue tribe, across the Lomami to
possess themselves of the countries as far as the Sankurru.
Knowing the Arab Hamed bin Mohammed, called Tibbu
Tibb, from former times, I am convinced that, had he
come here himself, the consequences of the expedition
would not have been so terrible as they were ; he, how-
ever, only sent his subordinates as commanders. Though,
his religion permitting it, the Arab is regardless of the
natives who are trying to defend their goods and chattels
and their liberty with their weapons, yet in general he
is not capable of such designing wickedness as those
slaves of his, the half-blood brutes from the coast, who,
besides the tribute which they have to pay to their master,
provide for themselves by stealing slaves wherever
they can. They dare not intercept ivory, but they
manage to hide slaves, and as long as their master is
satisfied with the booty of the expedition, he little
cares how his people look after themselves. The Arab
generally is more shrewd than the half-blood, who seems
to have inherited only the worst qualities of the two
tribes to whom he owes his existence.

The former wants to make the native princes tribu-

184 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

tcaiy to himself, while the latter is only intent on obtain-
ing as many slaves as possible, never caring what will
ultimately become of the devastated countries. The fault
of originating these outrages lies unquestionably with
the Arab, for only his initiative made it possible to
advance, to subjugate, and to depopulate more and
more. Therefore, if the aim be to benefit and to pro-
tect the poor defenceless native, the Arabs in these
countries should be extirpated root and branch, before
they obtain a force for which we Europeans are no longer
a match ; as was the case in the south, owing to the
distance and the hostile climate. It was high time that,
soon after the evil days of which I am speaking here,
severe measures should be taken against this African
plague. I myself had great satisfaction in being called
to suppress the East African rebellion, or to strike the
first blow at the coast from whence the above-mentioned
outrages chiefly proceed.

Although the English and German fleets lessen the
export of slaves, which are chiefly transported from these
districts of Central Africa, the future slave trade, and with
it the slave hunt, will be cut ofi" only by garrisoning the
coasts and the great commercial roads. Now, while I am
writing this, much has been done ; but the slave traders'
centres of operation, Tabora, Ujiji, and Nyangwe in the
interior, are still slave markets; Tibbu Tibb is still
livino- ; Muini Muharra and other slave-hunters are still
raging and destroying the natives, who, armed as they are
only with bows and spears, are defenceless against them.
Much still needs to be done to protect the liberty and the
lives of millions of harmless creatures ; it is still possible

WAB WITH THE ABABS 185

that the Arabs will be reinforced from the Soudan, south
of the Equator. But Germany is already prepared to
render further protection, is ready to check a danger
threatening from the north ; and I may hope that, before
this expression of my deepest indignation can be perused
by the reader, I shall have again taken up my work,
whose goal, the deliverance of Equatorial Africa from
the thraldom of the Aral^s, has become my life's object.

The progress of this war to the knife has been as
follows :

Mona Lupungu had paid tribute to Famba, instead
of, as was requested of him, to Tibbu Tibb, and, refusing
to pay the latter also, he had been attacked and driven
away. He had retreated to his friend Mona Kakesa,
and being pursued even here by Tibbu's hordes, those
two, after the loss of many lives, emigrated to the south
on the boundary of the Belande, leaving many prisoners
as slaves in the hands of their assailants. The hosts of
Arabs, never minding their enemies, but only eager to
obtain slaves and ivory, proceeded to the Benecki, who
at every approach of the robbers fled into the forests.
The Zappu Zapp of the west had, as we know, fled to
the Sankurru, and the Bassange had escaped to the
north, where we were now encamping, after many use-
less attempts to defend themselves, in order to hide, if
necessary, in the large, protecting primaeval forest.

The Benecki, not wishing to abandon their rich
villages and fields, returned every time the rapacious
troop turned their backs, and began to cultivate
the ground again, but as soon as the fields were
read}^ for harvest the vagabonds reappeared, their

186 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

expeditions being greatly dependent on the food they
found.

In this manner tlie pacific tribe of the Benecki was
attacked several times in succession ; many of the
bravest, who defended themselves, were killed, many
women and children were transported, while the greater
number took refuge in the forest. The necessary conse-
quence of the repeated devastation of the fields was a
dreadful famine, with small-pox, brought in by the
Arabs, following at its heels. War, slave-robbery,
famine, and pestilence had actually been able com-
pletely to depopulate this densely populated territory,
with its towns extending through many days' journeys ;
and we learned that only a dwindling remnant had
taken refuge with Zappu Zapp on the Sankurru.

On January 3 we passed the Lubefu, of 60 metres
breadth by a water-level of 0-3 metre; the bed was
cut 50 metres deep into reddish sandstone, with almost
perpendicular slopes. At the place of crossing deep
quicksands became dangerous for our bulls. Whenever
we gained a height after leaving the narrow valley of a
water-course, we were admitted in the shade of a long-
stretched palm forest, where formerly had been a town
of the Benecki. We encamped in one of these, once
the town of Kifussa. Each member of the caravan had
to bring into the camp the food he had found on the
way. Bananas, nearly over-ripe, thickets of pineapples,
remains of former potato fields, and palm nuts had been
found in the arable land and gardens of the Benecki.

Mona Lupungu, patrols of whose camp also were
loafing about in the desolate towns in order to get pro-

THE WEAKENED STATE OF THE BASHILANGE 187

visions, sent to request me to visit liim, wliich I at first
refused, chiefly with the view of preventing my Bashi-
lange from selUng their arms in exchange for ivory, and
thereby lessening the force of my caravan. During the
whole time my mind was busy in trying to ascertain
whether it would be possible to punish Tibbu Tibb's
troop, w^hich was said to be encamped on this side of the
Lomami, and whether this would be judicious and con-
formable to my commission. If I had had the same
number of coasters as Bashilange, who, however, with
their guns behaved very well to the savages who were
only armed with bows and arrows, the clearing of the
districts from the rapacious gangs of Arabs might no
doubt have been effected. But with my Bashilange, who,
into the baro;ain, were so much weakened with hunoer as
to be hardly equal even to the fatigues of the slow march,
it would scarcely have been advisable for me to take up
the cudgels in a successful combat against the slaves
and coasters of the Arabs who had been trained for war.
Even if I had succeeded in subduing one of these hordes,
I should soon have had to give way to the superior force
and the more efficient warriors, and so have lost more
than I had gained. Under the prevailing circumstances
I could do better with the Arabs in peace than in war.
As I was of opinion that the station in the Upper Congo
State near Stanley Falls was on good terms with the
Arabs, and since I knew nothing of the disorders which
had meanwhile broken out there, I was in hopes of in-
timidating Tibbu Tibb by threatening to take posses-
sion of his property in Zanzibar and on the coast. So
after due reflection, I may say with a heavy heart,

188 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBIGA

I had to desist from the plan of immediately supporting
the poor natives against their tormentors ; but, at any
rate, I wanted to be as ready for battle as was possible,
considering the unfortunate condition into which my
caravan had got through the journey of the last few
weeks, and threatened, therefore, to punish them
severely for any sale of arms and ammunition. I
should have greatly desired to be able to provide each
tribe oppressed by the Arabs with a number of arms
in order to defend themselves against those robbers.

Le Marinel and I did our utmost to hunt for
some game, but in vain ; our prolonged and fatiguing
hunting expeditions only enabled us to bag some
ducks.

On the 4th, twenty men armed with guns approached
continually shooting, bringing me a present of seven
slaves. These were followed by Mona Lupungu, a
Bassonge prince who, in 1882, had received us very
hospitably. He had hastened hither to fetch us to his
camp, a distance of three days' journey. He was much
altered in his outward appearance : he also had been
ill with small-pox, which had greatly disfigured him,
besides causing the loss of one of his eyes. He was
likewise changed from his former modest and amiable
deportment : his constant persecution during the last
few years had made him restless and savage in a way
that he had not been formerly. Being greatly urged by
my Bashilange, I yielded to the chief's request to visit
him. His companions, with their fine warlike figures,
though they had likewise grown barbarous during the
wild doings of the last few years, presented as warriors a

MONA LAPUNGU BEIXGS A PRESENT OF SLAVES

MONA KAKESA AND LUPUNGU'S CAMP 189

great contrast to my poor, tliiu, and ragged Bashilange,
who were filled with some anxiety, knowing that we
were about to enter a formidable camp, that of Mona
Kakesa, who was allied with Lupmigo. Another part
of the caravan were urging us to visit these two, so
that on their return they should have supplies in this
district of starvation. Everybody was over-fatigued,
weakened, and dissatisfied, which was easily to be
accounted for, and in such a humour that most of
them would have preferred to return home. In order
to prevent this I hastened, as fast as my weak people
were able to follow, to the south of Lupungo. On the
way we were continually met by armed men, besides a
despatch party of Mona Kakesa, bringing us maize and
manioc.

On the 6th I halted about a kilometre from the
camp of the two chiefs. Many thousands of people,
among them a few women, were assembled there ; abouu
300 were armed with guns, while the others carried
bows and arrows. The proceedings in this large camp
were barbarous and wild, as might be expected under
these warlike circumstances, for a troop of Tibbu
Tibb's was said to be stationed but two days' journey
from here in order to attack this camp. The force was
sure to be very strong, and the Bassonge had quite
made up their minds not to fight, but to 'flee at the
approach of the enemy.

On my asking the two chiefs whether they, in
alliance with me, would attack the warriors of the
Arabs, they decidedly declined. JSTor did they think
that I had been in earnest, for they said the}^ thought

190 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

the white men were friends of the Arabs, and, at any
rate, much weaker than they.

As the ample presents of the chiefs consisted in
articles of food, I granted my caravan a few days' halt.
We had now reached the southern boundary of the
vanished tribe of the Benecki, who were related to the
Bassonge. Only a few hours' distant the villages of the
Belande, who belong to the Baluba tribe, began ; and
south of these were the Balungu, under the chief Kas-
songe Chiniama, whom I had been prevented from visit-
ing a few months ago by the skirmishes with the Baluba.
South-west, as far as the Sankurru,the Bilolo,also Baluba,
were said to live. The country presented great changes
of scener}^ The ravines of the rivers were bordered by
deep slopes, showing red laterite, and covered with luxu-
riant vegetation. The summits of the heights, generally
pure grass savannahs, were dotted with ruin- like rocks,
and along the ridges, like gigantic snakes, extended the
dark groves of palm trees we have mentioned before.

The warriors of the Bassonge, crowding the camp,
were daily joined by hundreds of Belande, who carried
many pedereroes, such as had been brought from the
west coast by Bihe caravans ; while the weapons of the
Bassonge were percussion-guns which, before the break-
ing out of the war, they had obtained through commis-
sioners of the Arabs. Inferior Arabs, or mongrels from
the coast, not so powerful as Tibbu Tibb or Famba,
often gave some guns to more influential chiefs, by
means of which the latter would hunt slaves for them.
This was the point, then, where the fire-arms of the west
and the east met. Farther north, however, they have not

UNWISE PBOCEEDINGS OF THE BASHILANGE 191

peneti'ated, the large primaeval forest being a barrier
to commerce, whose results we had here ample oppor-
tunity of studying.

The only food all these warriors revelled in was the
palm wine, and consequently we had often scenes in
the camp that led to disputes, several times even to
hostilities, between our people and the Bassouge. One
evening after dark — not admitting any strangers after
this time — I turned out Lupungu, just as he was in
the act of taking a saddle-bull (about which we had
been negotiating) into his camp, before our bargain
was concluded. We soon discovered, as I had appre-
hended, that a considerable part of the Bashilange had
sold not only guns but also powder and percussion
caps, so that nearly all the Bashilange were short of
ammunition without my knowing it. I was indeed
indignant at such indiscretion.

What would have become of us if hostilities had
broken out among the mostly drunken hosts of warriors ?
Before the packed-up ammunition had been distributed,
everything would without question have been lost. They
had thoughtlessly exchanged percussion caps and powder
for victuals. In the presence of the Bassonge chiefs I
had the guilty punished by a thrashing, and distributed
fresh allowances of forage and new ammunition, which
henceforward was inspected several times a day.

I was very glad when the time for starting had come,
for the hostilities grew more and more numerous and
violent, and my people in their intercourse with the
Bassonge warriors became quite intractable.

I imagined I should be able to carry out my com-

192 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

mission, which required me to arrange the state of affairs
in the southern Congo State as well as possible, only by
hindering in some way, or at least restricting, the
plundering expeditions from Nyangwe, and therefore
resolved to go straight to the camp of the Arabs, and
there to decide upon further steps. Considering my
former footing with the Arabs, I could not but presume
that in Nyangwe I should get canoes and people with
whom to go up to the source of the Lualaba and to
explore the Kamerondo. We therefore set out towards
the north-east, at first conducted by Lupungu's people.
We found two more villages inhabited by Belande, before
reaching the desolate country of the Benecki.

On the march we found out that the intercourse in
the camp had been of bad influence on the discipline of
my people. The villages were completely pillaged by
the Bashilange and my coasters, and any resistance of
the natives soon led to acts of violence, which
fortunately never ended fatally. Bugslag and Le
Marinel, riding behind, would use a stick, or even a
pistol, to drive the pillagers out of the farms, and, if
possible, return the belongings of the natives, who were
furiously pursuing us. I explained to my people how
on my part everything had been done to keep them
from starvation, to protect them from hostile assaults,
and to avoid hostilities, and how all this had been
marred by their behaviour. I further told them that
I had in vain used lashes and fetters to punish offences
which endangered the safety of the whole caravan
and all the lives, for which I was responsible ; any
robbino" from the natives I therefore prohil^ited upon

COUNTRIES LAID WASTE 193

pain of death. They all agreed to this, quite seeing the
necessity of it.

The vast grass prairie, with its long groves of palm
trees, here and there showed formations of rivers. Wild
ducks and little red moor-hens were found in them in
great numbers, and in the evenings the sandy shores
were enlivened by hundreds of pigeons which, before
choosing their night quarters, would come here ta
drink. Pelicans, herons, and vultures (angolensis) were
frequent, while larger game was scarce.

We passed the Mussongai and Tambai, which fall into
the Lurimbi, a tributary of the Lomami, and entered
the town of our old friends, the Baqua Peshi, called
Kintu a Mushimba. This town, five hours' march in
length, is now likewise a wilderness, again reminding
us of the terrible fate experienced by the childlike,
friendly Benecki, who were living so happily but few
years ago. In some parts of this once gigantic town
attempts at settlements must have been made since,
as we found several fields with maize and beans only
of a few months old. Since our last sojourn here a
territory has been depopulated extending between the
5th and 6tli degrees south latitude, and the whole
length from the Lomami up to the Sankurru — a country
which, on account of its abundance of water and rich
soil, was better suited for settlements than any other ;
a country which, with its prairies, will be some day
exceedingly well adapted for breeding cattle.

On the 12th we marched a considerable distance
along an outstretched lake, which, framed in by only
a few trees of the willow species, presented a lovely

194

THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

picture in the midst of the vast grass prairie. We
pitched our camp on the edge of the valley of the
Lukassi. On account of the silence reigning now in
this district, which had formerly been over-populated,
some came had been enticed hither, as was testified bv
traces of buffaloes and elephants and the large horse

IN THE VALLEY OF THE LUKASSI

antelope, one of which we chased in vain. Formerly
game was an unheard of thing in this country.

We learned that a few kilometres from here east-
ward, beyond the Lukassi, lay Tibbu Tibb's large camp
of robbers, incessantly watched over by Lupungu's
spies, who lived in the thickest part of the forest.
These spies fearlessly visited us, bringing all the news
from the hostile camp. A few men in long white
shirts with turbans on their heads were said to be
leaders, the principal of whom was called Said. The

CANNIBALS 195

nucleus of the army was formed by many slaves of
Tibbu Tibb's, who were estimated at 500 m number,
whilst the troop was completed by a host of Kalebue
cannibals, who had formerly been defeated by Tibbu
Tibb and were now compelled to join his army. Most
of them were without firearms. A few days before,
these robbers had left their fortified camp — which,
during their absence, always remained garrisoned — and
undertaken a pillaging expedition to the south. They
had returned the day before, and were said to purpose
staying in the camp for the present, the rich fields of
this place supplying them with provisions.

0 2

196 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

CHAPTER VII

THE ARABS FAMINE AND ILLNESS

Camp of a troop of Tibbu Tibb's Zanzibaris — Said, the leader of the war-
like expedition — Said aiming at prisoners in his pistol practice —
Cannibalism in the camp of the Arabs — Sad condition of my caravan —
A man rising from the dead — Many sick people — On the Lomami —
The caravan well-nigh exhausted — The Arabs' form of government —
Hungry people eating poisonous fruits — Inundations — Everything
gloomy — Amputations — Some people missing — Bridge formed of
brushwood— Small-pox — The weakest part of the army left behind —
Losses — Reports about hostilities between the Arabs and the Congo
State — Bad prospects — At Nyangwe — Hidden threats— Tibbu Tibb's
son subjecting me to an examination — Suspicion against me — Famba's
aid — My Bashilange sent home uninjured — I remain in the Arabs'
power— Separation from Le Marinel and my caravan.

Next day we encamped on the Lukassi, called also
Lukashi and Lukassia, a river of about forty metres in
breadth and two metres in depth, and, making use of
an old fish weir and an islet, we, with great difiiculty
and labour, built a bridge. All the river crossings had
naturally been destroyed by the Bassonge. On the
14th we crossed over and pitched a strong camp, since
for the present we could not judge on what footing we
should be placed with the slave-hunters. I sent Humba
and three soldiers down the river, enjoining them to
approach the camp with caution and to ascertain
whether pacific intercourse with the vagabonds might
be effected.

RETURN OF THE PATROL

197

The bridge which we had built with so much trouble
was destroyed during the night by the roving natives
in our rear.

Anxious about the delay of the patrol, I had waited
until midnight, when they returned at last, accompanied
by three people — a man from Zanzibar and two slaves

\ I

ENTRANCE INTO SAID S CAMP

of Tibbu Tibb's — brincfino' a salaam from Said, the
second in command, making known to us that this
war was an expedition to take vengeance on the
Bassonge for having slain and devoured some of their
people. Humba told us that on approaching the camp
they noticed that they were being finally watched and
hemmed in. The natives ran up to them screaming, and

198 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

brandisliing their arms, and only the shouts of Fickerini,
my flag-bearer, in Kisuaheh, a language spoken by
nearly all the Arab slaves, had saved them from being
killed. They had then been seized, dragged into camp,
and brought before Said, who after a long conference
kept two of my people, sending two of his with
them, who were to return the same night and report
whether our approach was pacific or not. I was
astonished that even the man from Zanzibar did not
cease to distrust us till we had been minutely questioned.
The reason for this became plain to me much later.
Til^bu Tibb, I was told, with two white men, probably Dr.
Lenz and his companion, had some time ago set out for
the coast ; Juma Merikani and the son of mv old cruest,
the Sheik Abed, were at Xyangwe. Many of the Arabs
I had known had succumbed to small-pox. Said, the
leader of the vagabond troop encamping near us, had
formerly made Pogge's and my acquaintance. He was
one of Tibbu Tibb's favourite slaves, whom this shrewd
Arab had succeeded in making one of his most devoted
subjects. We were now in the Kalebue country, and
next day passed two little deserted villages, in one of
which we came upon seventeen human skulls, grouped
in a circle. Said's people drew my attention to this as
a proof that the Kalebue of these parts were terrible
cannibals, and, therefore, ought to be extirpated. They
only pretended this to be a motive for this war, the real
cause of which I mentioned above, for the Kalebue, who
fought on the side of the Arabs, were cannibals as well
as the western members of their tribe. Of this we were
soon to have striking proofs.

SAID'S CAMP

199

I halted and encamped 800 paces before Said's
camp, whither thousands of savage warriors were run-
ning to meet us, full of curiosity, and then, accompanied
by four men, I went to
Said to ascertain particu-
lars. I was surrounded
by Eastern Kalebue, sav-
agely brandishing their
arms and uttering wild
shrieks ; they were tools
in the hands of the slave-
hunters, who were here in
the suite of the Arabs. An
Ai^ab mongrel, scarcely
twenty years old, accom-
panied by some people
clad in Arab shirts, came
to meet me, promising
with exquisite politeness
— by which the Arab
swears until he takes
up arms — that he would
do all I wished. He
regretted that he had not
been able to send me a
present of meat, as he had
not any left for himself.
Said was in his manner

almost boyish. His companions were equally civil and
modest; they did not as yet know my power suffi-
ciently, and wanted to learn what had brouo-ht me here.

IX s.vid's camp

200 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

At Said's invitation we repaired to the camp, whicli
was surrounded by a close barricade of brushwood and
thorns. At the entrance they had constructed a gate,
a kind of yoke formed of beams ; on the horizontal
beams were suspended about fifty chopped-off hands,
mostly in a state of putrefaction, which smelt terribly ;
Said, pointing to the hands, merely uttered the word,
* Cannibals ! ' /

We sat down before the house of the former chief
of this village, and Said now began to speak in
the Suaheli language — somewhat familiar to me — but
was frequently interrupted by his companions, who
apparently gave him injunctions in a different language
as to what he was to communicate to or keep from us.
Famba at Nyangwe (Juma Merikani), he said, had
formerly transacted business with Lupungu, before
whose house we were sitting, though Tibbu Tibb had
claimed Lupungu as his subject. Lupungu had re-
peatedly cut off the heads of Tibbu's messengers and
given them to his Kalebue for a treat. Then the powerful
Arab had sent Said to punish the rebellious Lupungu
as well as the warriors of the tributary chiefs Lussuna,
Lagongo, and Dibue. The former had fled, and not as
yet reappeared ; they did not exactly know his where-
abouts, but had received information of his being allied
with Mona Kakesa and the Belande, and encamping in
the south-west.

The boy Said told me he did not know whether he
was powerful enough to attack the Allies ; he appeared
to me to be irresolute, I may say almost timid, and by
no means seemed to deserve the trust put in him by his

SAID'S VISIT 201

master. In the valley of the Lukassi, on the opposite side
of the river, I had the day before approached the camp,
so near that I could distinguish the voices ; while he had
learned nothing of the building of our bridge or of our
approach. He might easily have blocked up the bridge
and kept it from being destroyed, but it seemed to me
that for the present he wanted to put an end to the war,
and to rest satisfied with reaping the fields and chasing
the dispersed natives with a small number of troops.
Allied with me, he thought he might attack Lupungu ;
but I made my position clear to him in such a manner
that he made no further reference to the subject.

Said returned my visit in the evening, bringing
forty loads of manioc and maize and five slaves ; several
great men and chiefs, his subjects, joined him with
similar presents. Since I wanted to allow my people a
day's halt, and there was nothing to buy, I requested
Said to point out the most southern part of the planta-
tions of Lupungu's former village, so as to abundantly
supply my followers with maize, manioc, beans, and
pumpkins. Although we had found sufficient food
during the last few days to satisfy our craving hunger,
my people were still very weak, and suffering from
various diseases, principally foot-sores — a consequence
of having had scanty food for weeks.

In Said's camp were at least 3,000 people, who were
said to have 600 guns. The smell on approaching the
camp was pestilential, so great a mass of people being
packed into so small a s^^ace. Said asked for, and
received, different medicines, such as carbolic acid,
vaseline, and other simple remedies. In return he

202 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

promised to supply us with guides on our march to
Fyangwe ; whence, only, could further explorations be
carried out, I could not count upon my Bashilange
farther than the Lualaba, they being even now in a con-
dition that scarcely permitted them to drag themselves
from place to place. I should then have only a few coast
negroes and ransomed Baluba, who would not suffice for
a further expedition up the Lualaba. I was, therefore,
obliged to try to procure canoes and men at Nyangwe
from the Arabs, my former friends, so as to proceed
with my commission. On returning to Nyangwe, after
exploring the water-courses of the Upper Lualaba, I
could, without great expense, go to Stanley Fall Sta-
tion, and thence by the next steamer to the mouth of
the Congo.

Li the evening a patrol of about fifty men returned
from their hunt after natives who were dispersed and
concealed in the woods. They brought a few prisoners
bleeding from several wounds. One of Said's people
had also got an arrow in the upper part of his thigh,
which had been extracted very clumsily. When Le
Marinel gave the wound proper treatment, the gallant
warrior behaved very stupidly. He screamed and
moaned ; and even Said made much ado of what, for a
warrior, was but a trifling accident. Some of my people'
who towards evenino- had taken the wounded man back
to Said's camp returned literally livid with fear and
loathing, reporting that Said, the apparently irresolute
boy, had for a long time practised firing with a revolver,
making a target of the prisoners, until they had dropped
down after manv shots. He had then handed over his

CONDITION OF THE BASHILANGE 203

dead victims to his auxiliary troops, who had cut them
in pieces and dragged them to the fire to serve as their
supper. This was the army of an Arab who wanted to
punish natives for cannibahsm !

I must say in honour of my Bashilange, whose older
members had formerly been wont to eat human flesh,
that when, on our march next day we passed the camp,
decked out with the putrefied remains of slain human
beings, they showed disgust and loathing. However,
they endeavoured to conceal their abhorrence for fear of
Said's savage warriors, who had got morally low in con-
sequence of their bodily sufferings. The pitiful appear-
ance of my people even evoked the scornful laughter
and contempt of the fat, well-fed warriors of the Arabs ;
and in fact the asjDect of the withered, long-limbed, bent
figures, who were scarcely able to carry their guns and
their hemp-pipe, was not adapted to inspire one with awe
of their martial worth.

Our onward journey, being on Said's line of march,
led through destroj'ed villages, some of whose former
inhabitants had emigrated whilst others were living
on the remains of their fields, concealing themselves in
the thickets. In the first village we met some people
who, evidently taking us for a troop of Said's, fied to a
village 500 metres in front of us. Some Bashilange, who
likewise went thither to search for victuals, were received
with arrow-shots, and soon after the natives them-
selves burnt down their village and disappeared. At
the village where we were encamped we made some
interesting discoveries. In the centre stood a war
fetish, a man's figure of 0-7 metre height, with points

204 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

of arrows stuck in like bristles and besmeared with
blood, so that our two little terriers showed much
ethnographical interest in the fetish. In some houses
lay corpses, and near the village, there being want of
building materials for our camp, the huts were simply
lifted off the corpses and jDut up in the camp. After
being nearly three hours on the spot one of these ap-
parent corpses suddenly raised himself, looking round
him wonderingiy and asking for food. The man seemed
to be dangerously ill and near starvation. The Bashi-
lancre brought him food, but as soon as the evening
grew dark he disappeared, at which we could not help
feeling glad, as it led us to suppose that he would
tell the members of his tribe of our not belonging to
Tibbu Tibb's rapacious troops.

The daily falls of rain were very tiresome on
account of their soaking the heavy clayey roads,
and thus causing our weakened people to slip while
marching. It was astonishing that, with the constant
gloomy weather and cold winds, and in spite of the uni-
versal exhaustion and the many diseases, we had so far
only to record five deaths in the caravan.

On our march we observed a range of separate
mountains between Lubefu and Lukassi, rising pre-
cipitously from the prairie, which from a distance
appeared quite level. We kept continually along the
Lukassi. As soon as we approached the edge of its
valley, the generally uninterrupted prairie at first alter-
nated with scanty tree savannahs, which towards the
bottom grew thicker and thicker. The country was
bare of primaeval forests, and was no longer inhabited

MABCHING UNDER DIFFICULTIES 205

by the grey parrot, whose habitat is strictly hmited to
such districts. He prefers, however, small primseval
forests and stretches of wood along the river to the
vast uninterrupted ones ; while his two relatives, the
large and the small green parrot, are inhabitants of
the savannah. Above on the prairie the dwarf bustard
was very plentiful.

At one of the shallow brooks, here often bordered
by papyrus jungles, we had to turn, the bridge being
torn away, and there being no material far or near with
which to replace it ; and only after a long circuit could
we find a crossing-place. Close thickets and high grass,
now dripping with wet, cold winds and clouded skies,
made marching exceedingly difficult. Le Marinel had
for two hours daily to act as a doctor. Among the
100 invalids, some of whom had to be carried, nearly
fifty were footsore ; these were in charge of Bugslag
and the soldiers of the rear, and generally did not reach
the camp till evening.

On January 21 we once more crossed the Lukassi
in canoes which we had on the spot. The river, here
100 metres broad and three metres deep, flowed slowly,
and its water was of a dark grey colour. Before
reaching the canoes we had to cross an overflowed
space of two kilometres, the water reaching up to our
waists. We now entered the country of those Kalebue
who, as subjects of Tibbu Tibb, had taken part in the
warlike expedition against the western members of their
tribe. At last we succeeded in getting some meat, the
chief bringing us four fowls. On the left bank of the
Lukassi we had to contend with long grass, thickets,.

206

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

and many bogs, which furtlier weakened the heaUh of
the caravan.

On the 23rd, close to the mouth of the Lukassi,
we reached the Lomami, near the ferry of the Bena
Sala ; they, Uke all the natives here, suffered severely
from want of food, the roving troops of Tibbu Tibb

PALMS OX THE LOMAJII

not even sparing the plantations of a friendly country.
The Lomami was here 150 metres broad by three
metres deep, and had a speed of eighty metres a minute.
The bed consisted of coarse shingle ; the brink of the
banks was bordered by a thin edge of oil palms and
wild dates, besides a kind of willow. The gently

TUIE OF ST All VAT ION 207

sloping banks showed grass savannah. While I was
marching, a large-winged spur-goose flew close past me
before I could get my rifle ready. ' There goes our
breakfast ! ' I called out to Le Marinel. The bird, how-
ever, took pity on us ; he turned, and I succeeded in
shooting the young goose, which later we greatly
enjoyed. The bird was the first warning of the diffi-
culties we should have to encounter, consisting of vast
bogs and pools, which afford the wild geese a favourite
abode. What our caravan could be living on was a
complete puzzle to me. Even the inhabitants of the
small, thinly-populated villages that we passed were
suffering from hunger. It was impossible, therefore,
to allow the dead-tired caravan a rest, for only by a
continual and quick change of place could we find the
most necessary food for satisfying our hunger. On the
way Le Marinel and I often revelled in recollections of
the Cafe Eiche in Brussels ; Le Marinel especially was
a connoisseur of the most refined gastronomy at home,
and his descriptions often made my mouth water. The
conclusion of such a conversation was generally the
tightening of our belts and the ho^^ing for better
days.

It made me very sad to observe my jioor Bashilange
in the morning when starting. But for the strict enforce-
ment of the order to move on, many a one most certainly
would have preferred to lie still rather than drag along
his sick and weary body. Bugslag complained daily of
difficulties with the rear-guard ; his lot was not an
enviable one. From morning till night he had inces-
santly to bring on the weary by persuasion or, if

208 THROUGH EQUATOEIAL AFBIGA

necessary, by having them carried, or, when they were
ill, by taking them on his bull. He performed his task
with an iron calmness and patience. Whenever we
halted the people began to scream: 'Kabassu-Babu, give
us food, we are dying with hunger ! ' The complaints
of my poor companions cut me to the quick ; but where
was the remedy ? I was not even in a position to show
my sympathy, but had to do my utmost to encourage the
weary, and urge them onwards. Of any European pro-
visions, preserves, &c., there was of course nothing left;
we had distributed everything up to the last tin. The
only one of the caravan who did not grow thin was
the fat interpreter, Kashawalla. He made use of his
cleverness in his intercourse with the natives, which
made him a favourite with everyone, and filled his
stomach ; and whilst so engaged he even lost his good
nature, at least as regards sharing his food with others.
He was a great adept at concealing food in the baskets
of his wives.

On the 23rd commenced the crossing of theLomami
in four canoes ; 600 people were brought over. Three
hundred more, and the bulls, had to stop till next day,
the transport again taking a whole day. The people
thought that the Lomami fell into the Lualaba.
Farther down the river they knew nothing of either
falls or sands ; above, the river was supposed to be
navigable for canoes for only another five days' jour-
ney— as far as the falls which were said to be in the
Baluba country.

Here there was not much to live upon either, but
I was in hopes that a halt, when I would send my

SAID'S COLLECTING TRIBUTE 209

people in all directions to purchase provisions from the
natives, would be of advantage to us.

Since my first journey much had changed here to
our disadvantage. Formerly we used to make pur-
chases in exchange for cowrie-shells and cheap beads ;
nobody, however, would take these now : they wanted
stuffs and coloured beads which they had seen with
Tibbu Tibb's people ; and, everything being dear on
account of the famine, my goods diminished most
alarmingly. However, I could not but pay what they
asked, so far as I could afford it, taking my share in
alleviating the craving hunger which tormented the
peo|)le. On the Lualaba I hoped to procure provisions
from the Arabs. The governor of the countries'^on the
Lomami which belong to Tibbu Tibb was, at the time,
the same Said whom I met as a leader of the army on
the Lukassi. He performed administrative duties for
his master and for his own pocket — collecting tribute,
compelling people to serve under him, and punish-
ing offences. These were often a cause for making
war, for even a dispute among the people or the
villages will give the Arab's substitute a pretext for
interfering in his master's name. If compelled to do
so, they obediently follow the army, as we have seen :
brothers of the same name fought against each other in
the cause of their tyrants. That is the result of the reign
of terror with which the Arabs have here established
themselves ! The collecting of tribute consisted in quite
an arbitrary system of pillaging. Each great or petty
substitute for his master asked just what suited him,
since rules, of course, did not exist. It is astonishinsf

210 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

that natives will stay at all in such countries. The
cunning Arabs, however, prevent them from leaving
the district entirely by flattering some of the greater
and more influential chiefs, giving them a certain
power, and even bribing them by presents.

Said, as governor of the province, had an old slave
or coaster installed as a representative with each of the
greater chiefs ; then, also, he had his sub-officials and
spies at the various villages, so that nothing could
happen without its coming to the knowledge of the
administrator of the province. If an elephant was killed,
one tusk belonged to the master of the country, Tibbu
Tibb ; the other had likewise to be sold to him at his
own price. Each of Said's representatives practised
fraud in a gradually increasing degree, and the system
of taxation was thus a reckless system of extortion.

During the day's halt we had built a bridge across
the Kalui, close by, and next day marched through a
plain with tree-savannah and long grass, intersected by
shallow and gently curving water-courses. There was
great abundance of elephants. These animals evidently
at certain times exchange the district of the primeval
forest beyond the Lomami for this plain, princijDally in
order to drink the water of the salt lakes, and to
enjoy the ripe fruit of the borassus, which has a sweet
and pleasant taste. I was indefatigable in pursuing
fresh traces of them, so as once more to procure meat
for our people. The deep grass, however, not only ren-
dered the shooting expeditions difficult and fatiguing,
but it also thwarted every approach to the huge beast, by
causing too much noise when trodden on — the elephant

DISTRIBUTION OF PBO VISIONS

211

1 r'

ELEPHANT ON THE KALUI

being very cautious.
I am certain that our
people had had no meat 7^^^
since passing the San-
kurru, quite six weeks be-
fore, except caterpillars, locusts, and the like.

Whenever natives happened to come into the camp
with provisions for sale, hundreds of the caravan rushed
upon them, and snatched their provisions from them, so
that afterwards I posted guards, who had to take the sales-
men to a place where Bugslag was ready to buy all the
provisions, which he afterwards distributed. During
the distribution the stick had to act a chief part ; but,
in spite of it, there was often no preventing them from
tearing away the provisions. On one of these occasions
ten of my Bashilange fell dangerously ill. Vomiting
and convulsions were the symptoms with all of them.

p 2

212 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

We found out that, in order to satisfy their craving
hunger, they had cooked and eaten bulbs which they
knew to be poisonous. Emetics were, however, suc-
cessfully administered.

Great annoyance was caused by the prickly seeds
which fell off the ripe grass at the slightest touch. The
seeds, with their many little sharp points, got between
the clothes and the skin, and with each movement of
the body caused an irritating sensation. In order to
remove this torment one had to undress and carefully
pick off the seeds.

The country gradually became almost level ; only at
a far distance, towards the east, we noticed gentle
ranges of hills. Everything was dripping with the in-
cessant rain ; the tough greyish-white clay of the plain
did not allow the water to penetrate, nor did it flow ofi,
so that we had to march half the way in pools over
tough and slippery clayey ground. Almost the only
tree on the vast grass plain was the fan palm.
Swarms of geese and ducks and green pigeons enlivened
the endless watery tract ; elephants also were plentiful.

On the 27th, when halting at the small villages of
the Bena Kapua, I could not bring myself to punish my
people for pillaging the fields. They ate even what
was not ripe, and especially chewed the green blades of
millet, which are rather sugary in taste. Our arrival at
the place of encampment was a sorry sight. Grey was
the sky, grey did our people look with cold and hunger,
and grey was the future. We again had to bury some
Bashilange who had succumbed to the effects of hunger.
In spite of the suffering, not a word was uttered to

COXFIDEXCE OF THE BASHILAXGE 213

reproach, me ; the unbounded confidence of my sons
of the Lulua was carried so far that mothers, who did
not know how to feed their children, would hush up
their complaints and frettings with the assurance :
' Kabassu Babu will make it all right, he will soon take
us to a place where we shall find something to eat ! '

It would have been next to impossible to make this
journey with other people than my Bashilange. Other
tribes might possibly have borne hunger, sickness,
fatigues, war, incessant cold and rain, better than my
rather weakly people ; but discontent, reproaches, and
mutiny would have been unavoidable with any other
escort.

With one of Le Marinel's patients mortification had
set in. The flesh assumed a greyish-black colour and
began to waste away. In proportion as the morti-
fication spread, the bone also decayed and fell ofi'
the joints. Tliis disease always commenced in the toes,
probably in consequence of the continual bogs and
damps that we had passed through, and was helped by
the sore feet, as well as by the weak and delicate
bodily condition, of my people. "When the mortifica-
tion extended to the upper part of the foot, the patient
died after violent fever. Le Marinel told the people
that the only help would be to take off the joint. At
first they all refused, but afterwards they declared
themselves ready for the amputation, on condition
that I approved of it and that I would be present.
It was by no means easy to perform the operation, as
we had no surgical instruments with us. While we
were cutting into the proud flesh the patients did not

214 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

feel anything, but liad we only gone so far our operating
would have been of no avail. So we decided to cut
off the joint above the diseased part. Without any
practical knowledge, without either surgical instru-
ments or chloroform, Le Marinel, who had great skill in
such things, performed the operation, and now had the
gratification of stopping the progress of mortification
and of saving many lives.

On our march one mornino- we found that one
man with a gun and a load of provisions had not arrived
at the camp. I had, therefore, to halt, and send back
patrols, who, however, returned without him. I had
been made aware of this from the lost oun beino' a
chassepot carbine ; besides, I should have been sure to
notice the missing load. To my great consternation I
learned that some of the Bashilange had repeatedly
lingered behind ; very likely they had been overcome by
hunger on the way, or they had been kept back on
account of bodily pain. As Bugslag always brought on
all the weary men who were found on the road, the dis-
appearance of the people could only be accounted for
by their having hid in the deep grass, so as to escape
encountering new tortures and fatigues.

The involuntary day of rest had, at least, enabled
our people to procure sufiicient food near the road to
satisfy all ; but — ^just as if on this journey everything
was to be turned into trouble — the first case of small-
pox was now discovered among my Bashilange, and was
soon followed by another and others.

The weather did not change for the better ; every-
thing came either to a standstill or was spoiled ; grey

BRIDGE BUILDING

215

clouds lowered from morning to night, rain was inces-
sant, and the cold was felt even by Europeans.

It often happened that the van of the caravan,
wading through a pool, would suddenly sink in to a con-
siderable depth, for below this vast waste of water there
proved to be the channel of a brook. In order to cross

BUILDING OF A BKIKGE

one of these water-courses I invented a new kind of
bridge. There was no tree to be seen far and wide,
nothing but brushwood, grass, and swamp ; the edges of
the brooks, some feet under water, were distinguishable
by the thicker brushwood. I ordered all the men to
disperse, cut down bushes, drag them along and throw

216 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

them into the water where it was narrowest. The current
being scarcely perceptible, the wood remained on the
surface until pressed down by a fresh supply ; and after
200 men liad toiled^ for two hours, a wall, as it were,
arose, Avhich, though unsteady, enabled us safely to cross
the brook. As may be seen from the illustration, this
kind of bridge can be more easily constructed than one
of beams ; but naturally it can onl}^ be formed in a slow
current.

We had, at least, half the distance to wade through
water, which increased the number of sore feet. Those
ill with small-pox I had tried to leave behind near a
small village, after pitching tents for them and supply-
ing them with provisions ; but the natives turned them
out, and took everything from them.

I had to keep them, therefore, and ordered them to
march at least 100 metres behind the rear of the caravan
and to build their huts 500 metres off the camp. One
day a young Mushilange, ill with small -pox, came con-
trary to order into the camp, and, as he was not willing
to go, I sent him back by force, when his mother, a
Mushilange woman, anxious about her son, tried to
stab me with a knife, and it was difficult to convince her
that the isolation of the patients was for the benefit of
all ; I could only calm her by giving her some medicine
for her son.

All the slaves of the Bashilange, mostly descended
from the Baluba tribe, had fled to the natives, so as to
be no longer exposed to the hunger and fatigue of the
march. Of my ransomed Baluba, however, not one was
missina .

WEAKENED CONDITION OF 3IY CABAVAN 217

In spite of tlie small iiumLer of loads and the large
caravan, I was scarcely able to distribute the former.
Few people felt strong enough to carry anything, even
for high wages.

We were informed daily that two, three, and more
people had been left behind dying. As my soldiers,
whom I had been in the habit of sending back to look
for the missing, grew gradually over-tired, I obliged
the Bashilange chiefs to go back even with their best
people to look after their subjects. In the evening I
made them report how many had not been found.
Strange to say, this generally corresponded so well
with the number of those who had been missing at
first, that one day, on investigating whether the Bashi-
lange were actually looking for their people, I found
them concealed in a thicket close to the camp. They
intended to wait there till dark and then report in the
camp that the invalids had not been found. I could
not punish them for this proceeding, convinced as I
was that it did not arise from want of feeling, but was
simply owing to their inability to march back.

At Kilembue we at last got enough to eat, and the
provisions were even fairly cheap, so that, in conse-
quence of their eating such quantities of food, a good
many fell ill in the evening. The population increased
the nearer we approached the north. We came to the
villages of Kawamba Kitenge, the chief of the Bena
Nguo, where representatives of Tibbu Tibb were every-
where stationed with some soldiers. The shady villages,
with pretty little clay houses, which often have a small
verandah and fenced-in gardens, abounded in sheep.

218 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

goats, pigs, fowls, and there were also fields which pro-
duced whatever our delighted Bashilange could desire ;
even rice, imported by the Arabs, was grown. The
natives, notwithstanding, behaved very well ; they were
rather bold, certainly, but by no means insolent.

On February 1 we reached Kitenge's residence, and
pitched our camp in the shadow of the trees which
surrounded the tombs of the dead chiefs. An aged
Zanzibari, Tibbu Tibb's representative at this place,
recognised me, having been with us when, in 1882, I
had marched from Tabara to the coast with Tiblm Tibb.
He told me why the natives had always been unwilling
to accompany me on elephant hunts in these parts ;
they had been afraid lest I should claim the ivory, half
of which belonged to Tibbu Tibb by law, and half had
to be sold to him. The old Zanzibari made a good im-
pression on me, though he was exceedingly reserved on
being questioned about Nyangwe and the state of affairs
at Stanley Falls.

It was a twelve days' march from here to JSTyangwe,
and as I learned that all the water-courses were greatly
swollen, I resolved to leave the greater part of the cara-
van, with all the sick and weak, behind. I held a review
and selected the strongest men for an onward-moving
escort. The rest, with Kashawalla, who had made
friends with Kitenge and the old Zanzibari, were to
stay here, where food was plentiful, and the prices
not too high ; they were to be picked up again on Le
Marinel's return. The review, as might have been antici-
pated, showed a very bad result ; our loss was greater
than we had bargained for. Of one familv. that had

I REVIEW THE CABAVAN 219

numbered eight when starting, only three were left ; of
another, a third only survived ; and even though we did
not succeed in ascertaining the number of the lost — the
Bashilange never could be collected together, and the
chiefs did not like to state the loss correctly — we es-
timated it at nearly fifty men. For all that, the chiefs
insisted on accompanying me, feeling ashamed, they
said, of returning to the Lulua without having seen
Nyangwe, the great town of the Arabs. I supplied
Kashawalla with another interpreter, some soldiers, and
plenty of goods, so that they should not be inconve-
nienced, and got ready for marching on with the cara-
van, now numbering 200 persons. Kitenge had brought
numerous presents, fifteen goats, six pigs, and large
quantities of corn. In return I gave him, at his request,
a bull, as he promised to watch over the safety of my
people.

After those who were intended to remain behind had
pitched their camp near Kitenge's residence, and Tibbu
Tibb's representative had been won to our cause, I
started on the Oth, but halted an hour later, and in a
place where none could hide I reviewed my new
caravan, and discovered about 100 people whom I had
appointed to stay behind, but who, contrary to my
orders, had joined us, and some of whom had to be sent
back by force. In order that we should not be followed
by stragglers again, I made my outposts wait for an
hour at each place, and had another troop carried back
to Kashawalla. We received presents from all quarters,
but not until the people had heard of my being an old
friend of Tibbu Tibb's. Their manner to me was always

220 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

rather forward, almost insolent ; this, considering how
they had behaved on former occasions, rather baffled
me, since no Europeans had been here meanwhile.
^ After the Congo had been crossed, where it was
twenty metres broad and 1-5 metre deep, with an over-
flow of two kilometres' breadth, I received news at
the village of the Bena Lubowa which enlightened me
about much -that had so far been unintelligible.

A coast negro, one of Tibbu Tibb's people, was so
insolent outside my tent that with my own hands I
turned him out of the fence surrounding it. Soon after-
wards an old man who had accompanied me from Kitenge
appeared, asking for a private interview. He told me
that a few months before the Europeans had been at war
with the Arabs near Stanley Falls station, and that a cousin
of Tibbu Tibb's had taken the station of the white men
by storm, when one of these had fallen and three fled, and
the station had been burnt down. In expectation of an
avenging expedition, thousands of Tibbu Tibb's people
had been sent thither, among them many warriors from
these parts, who had only lately returned, as the wdiites,
being too small in numbers to fight against Tibbu, had
not come back. This was bad news. I arrived here
with the same flag ^ against which, as we all knew,
Tibbu Tibb's people had fought near the Falls.

To advance in force was not to be thought of, for
if there had been a fio'ht none of the Bashilano-e would
have been spared. Three parts of my people had been
left behind ill, unable to march or fight ; Tibbu Tibb

^ I carried the star-flag of the Congo State beside the black, white,
and red.

TIBBU TIBB'S BEPBESENTATIVE 221

himself, who was to be trusted most, had gone down to
the coast, and my old friend the Sheik Abed had also
gone. The only friendly Arab whom I knew, and who
was still on the Lualaba, was Famba Juma Merikana,
known from Cameron's journey. My prospects, there-
fore, were very gloomy. Would not the Arabs have
blamed me for the fights near Stanley Falls ? Would
they not keep us as hostages for an avenging expedition
from the Lower Congo ? Even if such were not the case,
would they give me means for a further exploration ?

The present representative of Tibbu Tibb was Bwana
Zefu, his son, to whom I had been of great service
years before, at the residence of the mighty Uniamwesi
prince, Mirambo, but whom I had since then discovered
to be a passionate, suspicious, and cunning fellow. At
present I had to act with caution and prudence, for not
only was the progress of my expedition, but also the
lives and liberty of my nearly 900 followers were de-
pendent on my bearing. It was a pity that my people
also learned the news, which until now had been skil-
fully concealed from us, and was only now transmitted
when we appeared too small in numbers to be in
any way formidable to the Arabs. Later I learned
that Said, the leader of the vagabonds on the
Lukassi, had sent the report of our approach to
ISTyangwe, and that from thence directions had been
despatched to all the chiefs on the road. The people
were not to betray the intended war to us, until either
we should have reached the territory of the Arabs or be
too weak to enter into any hostilities. The behaviour
of the natives was now accounted for. At first the

222 THEOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

only thing to be done was to emphasise the pacific
purpose of our expedition and quietly to continue our
march. If we had marched back to the bulk of the
troop, the surrounding tribes, with Said and his people,
and a reinforcement from the Lualaba, would have
been brought on our rear at once. Even if, at the
best, we had been able to defend ourselves, a return
with almost 900 sick and weak into that district of
starvation was not to be thought of, least of all in a
fighting attitude. This would have been equivalent to
the annihilation of the caravan.

Lussana, the chief of the Malela, sent us six loads
of manioc, four of bananas, one of sugar, 100 eggs,
eight fattened sheep, and one fat pig ; in return for which,
at his special request, I gave him two small barrels of
powder and four handkerchiefs, which he sent back as
not sufficient. I soon, however, learned that three
insolent young fellows, who had to arrange the ex-
change of presents, had forged the second demand of
the good-natured chief and then intercepted it. The
impudence of some people from Nyangwe, who on the
way had robbed my people of beads and fowls, made
me anxious about the future. Besides, a man with his
load was missing again.

We now approached a point where several large
tribes meet. North-west of us lived the Batetela of
Kassonga Lusliia ; Kitenge had been the northernmost
Bassonge prince, for Lussuma belonged to the Wakussu,
who are part of the Wasongora or Bassonga. On the
south-east the Baluba extended to this latitude along
the Lualaba.

OUB CROSSING THE L UAL ABA 223

On the Moadi I suddenly met an Arab, or rather a
Beloochistan man, who had come on a tradmg expedi-
tion from Nyangwe and offered to accompany me to
the Lualaba. He sent me rice and lemons, and told me
that Famba was ill, and, in order to allay the excite-
ment that might be caused by my appearance at
Nyangwe, he advised me to send messengers to the
Arabs there, assuring them of my pacific approach.
I did so, and for this mission selected Humba, two
soldiers, and the flag-bearer Fickerini.

This arrangement had the advantage of not being
conspicuous, if I should need to withdraw the star-flag
which Fickerini had carried until now, but which was
pursued with threats by many people who knew it
from Stanley Falls. As the Beloochistan, Sahorro,
cheated me immensely in my bargains with him, he
was very amiable and exceedingly useful to me in my
precarious situation.

On we marched through the saline country of the
Bena Samba, across the ridge of hills west of the Lualaba
into the valley of the father of African streams, the
Lualaba Congo, which I reached on the evening of
February 14, near a settlement of the fishing people, the
Wagenie.

In the large beautiful canoes, coming from the
northern primasval forests, we next day crossed the
Lualaba, which has here a breadth of 1,200 metres, and
had a shelter assigned to us at Nyangwe. We Europeans
were lodged in a poor and dirty little house, and our
Bashilange in a remote part of the town. It was a bad
sign that we were not received by an}^ Aral3, as was

224 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

the case last time, and as Arab civility demands.
Except the crowds of slaves staring at us, no one
seemed to take any notice of us. I soon learned that
encroachments had taken place at Nyangwe. My old
friend, the Sheik Abed, had been partially compelled
to travel to the coast, as they said, by order of the
Sultan Said Bargash, in order to pay his debts to Indian
traders. His present representative, Halfan, did not
come till evening ; he behaved civilly, but was most re-
served— which, however, did not prevent him from beg-
ging continually. The fact of his desires being gratified
procured us visits from many inferior Arabs, who all de-
manded one thing or another. It was almost night when
one of them told me at last that, if I were to give him such
and such a thing, he would betray any conspiracy on
foot against me. They had evidently not made up their
minds how to treat me, and I heard that conferences were
being incessantly held about this question. Next day
came Zefu, Tibbu Tibb's son, in a canoe from Kassonge,
accompanied by six insolent young fellows. Zefu's
behaviour was shocking. The hot-headed young fellow,
made insolent by his sense of superiority, treated me in
such a manner that it was only with the utmost effort
that I could master myself sufficiently to answer him
quietly, as necessity demanded. We were regularly put
throusfh a series of questions as to whence we came, in
whose commission, how long we had been coming, &c.
At our answers, which may have seemed strange to the
half-savage Arabs, who are partly negroes (Zefu, too, is
quite black) — they would sometimes laugh right into our
faces. In quite a nonchalant way they would jeeringly

ZEFU'S IMPUDENCE 225

imitate the heavy movements of Biigslag's robust sailor-
figure. They criticised Le Marinel's and my looks
without hesitation in the Suaheli language, perfectly un-
intelligible to me. My man-servant Sankurru, who had
been given me by Abed, and who had formerly been
known here, was called and asked in our presence
whether our statements were true or not ; in short, to any-
one acquainted with Arab, civility, their behaviour was
rude and provoking. ^ At length, though with great diffi-
c\ilty, I brought myself to assume a stoical tranquillity,
which gradually toned down the insolent and noisy be-
haviour of our inquisitors. The manner in which Zefu
told us about the war near Stanley Falls, and the way
in which he described the wounds and death of a Euro-
pean, calling them cowards, &c., was most revolting.

This insult, the worst an Arab can utter, made me
start and ask him to whom he owed his not having been
taken prisoner by Mirambo some years ago ; but it was
necessary that I should keep my temper, as on the result
of this conference might possibly depend the destiny of
my whole caravan. This scene had the advantage of
making me see plainly that from this point any further
undertaking would be impossible, and that my special
endeavour must be to send home unhurt the many
hundreds of people who had accompanied me. (Zefu
pointed out one of his followers to me as being the one
who had killed the white man, which the other boast-
ingly corroborated.) That I should not take back the
troop myself was decided by Tibbu Tibb's son, who
requested me to follow him to Kassongo. It was
obvious that they wanted to keep me as a hostage for

226 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Tibbu Tibb, who had gone to Zanzibar, and about whom
they felt anxious, in consequence of the skirmishes near
Stanley Falls. I prepared myself to remain here as a
prisoner for the next twelve months, unless a chance
should preserve me from such a fate. A half-bred Arab
had from the beoinninoj' been commanded to look after
my wants, but he was to act as a spy, and was of course
not to lose sight of me. He reported my every move-
ment, and was so amiable as to beg incessantly.

Above all it was necessary to remove Zefu's distrust
if possible, and the best way was to win him over by
presents. Before he left I therefore gave him a beau-
tiful rifle and some silk stuffs which I had taken as
presents for the Arabs. Sahorro gradually told me that
the Arabs had resolved not to let me go, and so, antici-
pating the communication on the part of the Arabs, I
made known to Zefu my intention of remaining here with
Bugslag and some of my people. The Bashilange, how-
ever, I would send back first to Kitenge, and from thence
to their own country, with those who had remained
behind, if they should meanwhile have sufficiently re-
covered. They were to be conducted by Le Marinel,
whom I had introduced here as French and not Belgian,
as they entertained a burning hatred against the Belgians
since the fight near the Falls. Zefu declared himself to
be of the same opinion, and I made it my first endeavour
by the purchasing of provisions to prepare for the return
of the caravan. These I decided to buy from Juma
Merikani, since he, the only Arab formerly known to me,
had warned me against his fellow-tribesmen. I was to
sail up the Lualaba with Zefu, who was ready to stop
with me at Juma's to conclude the barirain.

MY CONFEBENCE WITH ZEFU 227

In the morning, at the hour fixed for embarking,
Zefu was rather late, and did not make his appearance
at the landing-place. I entered one of the canoes, and,
telling the steersman that I wanted to go on to Juma, I
made them push off, encouraging the oarsmen, as if for
my amusement, to exert themselves, so as to arrive at
Juma's as long as possible before Zefu, which would
enable me to negotiate with the former undisturbed by
Zefu's presence. I noticed two canoes, strongly manned
with armed warriors, ' keeping watch ' below my house
on the Lualaba, in order to prevent me, as I learned later,
from taking possession of the canoes of ISTyangwe and
sailing down the stream. We now went up the river,
making the yellow water dash up high above the bow
of the canoe, until we reached Juma's place. When I
landed, there was no trace of Zefu's canoes. I hurried
to the house of mv old friend, who ao-ain warned me
against Zefu, and promised to sell beads and cloth to
me, and to do all he could to facilitate my Bashilange's
return home as soon as possible. Juma told me that
at the rumour of my approach they had conjectured
that I intended to seize Nyangwe and Tibbu Tibb's
settlement, Kassongo, from the west, and to punish
them for the destruction of the station at Stanley
Falls.

Afterwards, having learned that I had left the greater
part of my caravan at Kitenge, they resolved to keep me
as a hostage for Tibbu Tibb, and had taken measures to
watch me from every side, as for instance by the canoes
on the Lualaba. When Zefu arrived, much annoyed at
my having hurried on — though he dared not sav so in the

Q 2

228

THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

presence of old Juma — we entered upon business. I
bought beads and stuffs, and, with Juma's vigorous sup-
port, we agreed that I should return toNyangwe, and that,
after making my Bashilange start on the 21st, I, with the
people who were to remain with me, should go by land
to Kassongo, Tibbu Tibb's residence. My people had
noticed for some time that something was wrong, that

.W^^/filllli|IO™'*'«''i'^'-'''' '

LIEUTEXAXT LE MAKINEL

my friendly manners to the Arabs Avere only pre-
tended, and, for their own safet}', they were glad soon to
leave Nyangwe and to set out for their beloved Lulua.

On the 21st Le Marinel returned with the caravan
across the Lualaba. It was with a heavy heart that I
saw the good people, who had suffered so much on my
account, depart. I could not requite them for what they
had done for me, and could only beg Le Marinel to treat

DEPABTUBE OF THE BASHILANGE 229

them after their return as well as might be in his power.
There was nothing to be feared for the safety of the
caravan, except perhaps sickness and hunger ; though it
was not so bad to have to pass through those desolate
districts now, when they knew what to expect and were
able to prepare themselves for any cases of emergency.

Le Marinel had quickly learned how to treat the
negroes. He had gained the love and confidence of
the Bashilange by his truly unselfish surgical assistance
and continual kindness. At the same time, he was
thoroughly equal to any warlike eventualities, so that I
was not anxious about the safety of the Bashilange.
They, on their part, felt that I remained behind in a
precarious situation ; as I read in their eyes and learned
from their hearty hand-shake on parting with their
'Moiio Kabassu Babu.'

The ferry on the Lualaba had had repeatedly to
witness sad partings. It was here that five years before
I bade farewell to my friend Pogge, who was about to re-
turn to the western wilderness. Now I was deeply moved
at seeing my black sons from the Lulua leave me. Nor
did Ifeel indifferent at having to separate fromLe Marinel.
This young officer had been a faithful help in sad times. ^

Only ten of my coasters from Angola remained with
me, besides twenty ransomed Baluba slaves, who refused
to leave me ; and last, not least, Bugslag, good as gold,
whose courage and trust were not to be shaken, and
whose uniform good temper and devotion have made
him my friend for life.

^ In Appendix I. is added a letter of Le Marinel's, describing the
return of the caravan from Nyangwe to their own coiuitry.

230 THROUGH EQUATOEIAL AFRICA

CHAPTEE VIII

AM OBLIGED TO TRAVEL EASTWARD JOURXEY TO THE

TANGANYIKA

Famba's disclosiu-es — Stores of ivory — In the lion's den — 'T^liite men
are cowards ' — Thwarting of my plans — The mm-derer of a German —
The past and present recollections of an old chief — I feel \eic\ weak — ■
The places of encampment poisoned h\ the corpses of slaves — Sad
reflections — Apathy of my people — Horrors of the traffic in slaves —
On the Tanganyika.

I STARTED from Nyangwe on the 22ncl, and next day-
stayed witli Juma bin Salim, who gave me three fatted
oxen, a donkey, a red parrot,^ three sheep, some leopard
skins, and many trifling presents ; in return for which
I gave him my pistol, a musical box, and a bull. Juma
advised me to be friendly and unembarrassed in my
behaviour to Zefu, to make him presents — and especially
to get away from Kassongo as speedily as possible ; I was
then to march to the Tanganyika, from which point I
should find different roads to the coast. I might be sure,
he said, that if, during my sojourn at Kassongo, Tibbu
Tibb's stations should be attacked by the Congo State,
I should be lost ; even Tibbu Tibb's son could not
protect me from the rage of the coasters and small
traders. He also told me that only the fact of my

^ These red parrots are freaks of natui-e, and occm' but rarely. Three
or fom- grey parrots and a red one are now and then foixnd in one nest in
the districts between Sankra-ni and Lomami. These birds fetch a great
price on the coast.

JUMA'S ADVICE

231

having formerly been
on friendly terms
with many Arabs and
also with Tibbu Tibb
had saved my cara-
van from destruction.
The excitement in
consequence of the
fighting at Stanley
Falls, the blame for
which was entirely

ascribed to the hostile bearing of the white men of that
place, was, he told me, far greater than was imagined.
The reason for the skirmishes, which was known to be
quite different from what was reported, he related to me
in the followino- manner : the chief of the station near

JUJIA BIN SALIM S IVOKY

232 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Stanley Falls, a certain Lieutenant Dean, had for a long-
time, and finally by force, withheld the wife of an Arab
who had followed him and had assisted slaves in their
flight. Afterwards, when the said woman had been
seized and beaten by her master, he had fired bomb-shells
into Tibbu Tibb's camp, where he had killed and
wounded several people. Then the Arabs had attacked
him, and after several days' struggle, in which a white
man had fallen, they had stormed the station. Two
Europeans had saved themselves, and also part of the
black troop, Haussa and Bangala. They had then
pillaged and destroyed the station. He further told us
that at Tabora an Arab had shot a German,^ who was
trading with ivor}^ This Arab was at present staying at
Kassongo, and was, in consequence of his deed, a great
man ; in short, he said that bad times were at hand, that
he was of opinion that a general struggle would soon
break out between Europeans and Arabs, when not even
the missionaries would be spared. I was, therefore, to
caution the missionaries on the Tanganyika. He said he
was too clever not to know that the fio-ht mii>iit o-q
hard with the members of his tribe ; but, being re-
garded as a friend of the white men, no one listened to
his advice ; he had not even been admitted to the con-
ferences held about me, though, at the time, he was the
oldest Arab at the Lualaba.

Juma himself was ill ; he was suffering greatly from
elephantiasis, and could only be carried. On account
of his illness and the troubles he predicted, I urgently
advised him to go with his ivory to Zanzibar, and for

' The German merchant, Giesecke.

JUMA'S ILLNESS 233

the purpose of this journey I gave hnn a quiet bull to
ride. He owned great stores of ivory. Once he called
his favourite wife — a slight, handsome, large-eyed
woman from Uganda — the only one whom he entrusted
with the key of his treasures — and made her take me
into his camp, wdiere nearly 500 elephants' tusks lay
piled up, not counting the small inferior ones. Juma
is no bigoted, inveterate Mohammedan, either as re-
gards his faith or his customs. He never hesitated
to let his wives, who often brought me fruit and cake,
hold intercourse with me. He spoke about religion in
a very free manner, and, though this was not a good out-
come of his free doctrine, he daily got drunk on a kind
of brandy, compounded by himself of bananas and palm
wine or millet beer. For me he had preserved a real
friendship, and also for the English traveller, Cameron,
of whom he always spoke with the greatest affection.

When, in 1889, 1 came to the East African seaboard,
I was very sorry to learn that he had died at JSlyangwe
shortly after my departure.

On February 26 I left Juma, and on March 2 I
arrived at Kassongo, the den of the lion of Manyema,
Tibbu Tibb's residence. The Arabs gave us a cold recep-
tion and the populace even a hostile one. The crowds
of people who had just attended a fair came flocking
along to see us, and received us with loud jeers. Again
and again we heard them call out, 'White men are
cowards ! ' We took up our abode in a small, dirty,
insignificant-looking house, unfit for the abode of a
white man, and closed our door against the numerous
visits of petty traders, Arab vagabonds, who formerly

234

THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

would not have dared to pay their respects to the
friends of the great Arabs. Next day, as is customary,
I called on all the gentry of the town, accompanied by
Bugslag. Our calm and independent bearing, our empha-
sising the fact of our being Germans, and the promise

NEIGHBOURHOOlJ OF KASSOXGO

of some presents, called forth greater civility on our
leaving than on entering. Any attempt to undertake a
journey from this place, be it to the north or south, at
once excited the distrust of those on whom we were now
depending to such a degree that my conviction of the
impossibility of effecting exploring expeditions from this

FICKEBINI IS A GBEAT HELP 235

point was more and more confirmed. After giving
Zefu more presents, I tried again to get canoes and
people, to be selected by the Arab himself, for a
journey to Moero Lake and the Kamerondo ; but the
manner in which he answered me convinced me of the
fruitlessness of any further attempt.

My former flag-bearer, Fickerini, from Zanzibar, was
of the greatest use to me, reporting as he did everything
that went on. He recorded each day the result of con-
ferences held about me ; these always ended in their
deciding that I should remain at least until they had
heard from Tibbu Tibl^, though some Arabs, on friendly
terms with Juma bin Salim, voted for their letting me
go to the coast, since I was a German. The leaving my
caravan behind at Kitenge, they said, proved that I had
not been aware of the war on Stanley Falls ; besides, I
had formerly been on friendly terms with the Arabs ; and
I could not do them any harm, but should rather be of
use to them, if, on getting to the coast, I were to tell
how they had let me off uninjured.

One day Fickerini came home in great glee and
reported that messengers had arrived from the Tan-
ganyika Lake with the news that Tibbu Tibb had arrived
at Zanzibar and had not been called to account about
the affair on Stanley Falls.

By this time the tide had begun to turn in my favour,
especially since nothing happened on Stanley Falls,
and I had gradually gained the confidence of the more
important Arabs by giving them presents. Once more
I made an attempt to avail myself of my commission
from H.M. the King of the Belgians. I proposed to

236 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFBICA

Zefu to send me with some leading Arabs to Stanley-
Falls, so that, should we happen to meet Europeans
there, we might enter upon pacific negotiations. In
vain ; he was too distrustful in this respect. Therefore,
only one road was left to me — that towards the east.

Once more I began to hope, hearing them speak of a
European living near a lake north of the Tanganyika,
who owned plenty of ivory and soldiers, and who, al-
though a European,was said to be a Mohammedan and an
officer of the Sultan of Massr, of Egypt. This could only
be Emin Bey, of whom I had heard detailed reports before
my last return to Africa. I now thought I might succeed,
with the assistance of some Arab friends, in reaching
the Albert Lake, if I were to go from Ujiji to the north
of the Tanganyika. Although this was only a faint ray
of hope, it yet revived me, for it offered the prospect
of making the most of my march to the east.

On the 7th, twenty-two days after reaching the
Arabs, I was ready to prepare for my start to the
east. I had been wavering whether I should stay and
wait for a suitable moment to go up or down the
Lualaba, but I now abandoned further hesitation, as any
day we might hear of new skirmishes on Stanley Falls,
which would seal the ruin of my troop and myself.
After convincing myself that nothing was to be gained,
but everything lost, by delay, I started towards the east
on the large caravan road to the Tanganyika, though
my heart was heavy at the impossibility of performing
the last part of my commission.

Le Marinel, with the Bashilange, would meanwhile
have crossed the Lomami, and consequently be beyond

MY START TO THE TANGANYIKA

'237

ACROSS THE ILIXDI

the power of the Arabs. Had
anything happened to him I
should surely have learned it
through ni}^ faithful Fickerini.
Besides giving presents to the
Arabs, I had been robbed of
several loads of goods at Nyangwe and Kassongo, and
my attempt to reclaim them from the Arabs had been
fruitless. Among the lost loads was one with cartridges
for the rifle I had given to Zefu, and, as Bugslag and
I carried similar rifles, our ammunition was greatly
diminished. I had taken the precaution to give Zefu
only fifty cartridges with the rifle, pretending that I
was running short, but one day, on going to see him,
I noticed that he now possessed a much larger number,
which evidently had been taken from the stolen box.
Zefu on my departure exhibited a stinginess in making his
return presents that one would have thought impossible

238 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

to a man of rank brought up in Mohammedan customs.
He gave me two old goats for the journey, and many
saLaams, accompanied by ironical gesticulations.

At our first stoppage old Fickerini asked me whether
I had known the Arab who shortly l^efore my start had
shaken hands with me. On my answer in the negative
he told me that it was Mohammed bin Kassim,^ the
murderer of the German merchant at Tabora. Kassim
was always present at the meetings of the most important
Arabs, and was much respected here.

On passing the Hindi, which was much swollen and
about sixty metres broad, I rode my bull into the water
to find a good landing-place for canoes. The bull
misunderstood my intention, and with a rush he
plunged into the deep water, swimming with me and
the heavy saddle on his back over to the opposite side.
Once, in the middle of the stream, he had to struggle
to keep his balance ; but on the whole he swam
splendidly.

A few days later we came into the war district.
Zefu's soldiers were collecting natives who were to act
as oarsmen in transporting some more troops to Stanley
Falls. Everyone had taken to flight ; only now and then
had they stood their ground. Near our camp some
natives fled across the Hindi, and some piercing shrieks
that we heard were accounted for next day by the
capsizing of a canoe with fugitive Manyema, seven of
whom had been drowned.

Marching in this part of Manyema, where the herbage
is unusually high, was made specially diflicult among

^ In 1890 I sentenced this Ai'ab to be handed.

SICKENING OF THE BALUBA 239

the jungle-like marianka-grass, the ]jlades of which are
as thick as one's thumb. Some days after, we a^ain
passed a scene of hostilities : an Arab who was offering
provisions for sale had been shot, and his son, Said bin
Habibu, was now avenging his father's death.

On the 12th we crossed the Luamo, winding through
piles of clay-slate, which in this latitude we found east
of the Lualaba and reaching close to the Tangan3dka.
My Baluba, who had kept up pretty well until now,
began to sicken, and in order to transjDort my goods,
few though they were, I had to hire natives at almost
every village, not counting the twenty slaves engaged
by Zefu. We daily passed settlements of coasters and
Arabs, who told me that the head of the English mission,
Captain Horn, had been prevented from carrying out
his intention to hoist the English flag at Ujiji, and that
the English missionaries were to be turned out from the
Tancranvika.

On the ITtli I had once more the comfort of pitching
a camp in a place far from any villages. A break
in the incessant turmoil, the everlasting contest and
haiyg^lino' in buving- and sellinq- and the hanoinsf round
and staring on the part of the natives, causes a quiet
camp to be a true source of enjoyment to the traveller.
The constant strain upon the nerves gradually loosens ;
one needs not always be ready to interfere with threats
or persuasions, but is at liberty to give free course to
one's thoughts ; in short, one feels like a 23risoner who
is released for a few hours' relaxation. Never on my
former travels had I been so much struck by the change
as at present ; the uninterrupted succession of all our

240 THEOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

sufferings and disappointments, and the having continu-
ally to ponder and reflect on expedients, had almost
exhausted my energy.

On the 18th, after crossing sixteen brooks, we
reached Kalambarre, the large establishment of the Arab
Eashid, a drunkard, a hemp-smoker, and an insolent
besG'ar. In the evenini? we had a visit of several Arabs,
among them the amiri — i.e. officer — of Eeichardt and
Dr, Boehm on their journey to the source of the Lualaba.
We arranged a shooting match, taking for our target
the fruits of a melon-tree ; in this match I was victorious,
though I did not receive the prize — a goat from each of
the competitors.

This reminds me of an extraordinary sentence passed
by Eashid on being told that one of his men had shot
at a native from jealousy. That the culprit should
have fifty lashes for having shot so badly as to have
only wounded the native, was the punishment for a really
murderous attempt on the part of a tipsy slave.

I felt more and more in physical suffering the strain
on my nerves of which I made mention above. I
suffered from headaches and nervous asthma, which
caused the most painful sleeplessness.

And now, on March 21, the rainy season set in again,
which enabled me to confirm an observation of meteoro-
logical importance which I had made on my first journey.
I found out that between the Tanganyika and the
Lualaba was the junction of the different courses of
thunderstorms ; from the west to this point the storms
always travelled from the east, and vice versa.

At Ubujive we found the places of encampment

MY GONVEBSATION WITH A CHIEF 241

fenced in by trunks of trees and briers to keep off the
lions and leopards. I was unable to roam over the game-
stocked valleys of Ubujive, being too weak at that time,
and on reaching the camp was compelled to lie down.

We found frequent traces of elephants, buffaloes,
antelopes, lions, leopards, and hyenas.

One day I had an interesting conversation with an
old chief, who spoke to me of former times when as yet
the Arabs had not crossed the Tanganyika. He de-
scribed how the natives had gradually been dispossessed,
enslaved, and more and more driven back, so that to-
day on this road to Ubujive, which but ten years before
had led through a densely populated district, only a
sincrle native villao;e was to be found. A number of
petty coast traders had settled here, making in every
direction inroads into the interior.

Ivory and slave caravans, starting from the settle-
ment of the Arab Kalonda, advance for many months'
journeys in a due-easterly direction. I was told that
those countries were almost without exception covered
with primaeval forests, that a great many Batua were to
be met with, and that in the course of a few months
I should reach rivers, falling neither into the Lualaba
nor into the Tanganyika, but into a large lake towards
the east. Stanley most likely met such a caravan on
his march from the Aruvimi to the Albert Lake.

The villages of the Bena Wasi Malungo, which I
had touched on my first journey, had disappeared, nor
did I, as then, find a trace of the Batua ; the Bena
Bussindi were the last remnant of the native population
on the caravan road.

242 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

One day we passed a pool of sixty metres diameter
whose waters showed a temperature of 38° Celsius. We
were about to encamp near it, in a place often visited by
caravans, but such was the pestilential smell caused by
eight corpses, which, half devoured by hyenas, were in
a state of putrefaction, that we tried to find a more
suitable place farther up. A few thousand metres from
this point we again reached a camp, and in the huts
were some more corpses, one of which was shrivelled
up like a mumm3^ On the road we repeatedly observed
skulls and limbs. We had no difficulty in finding the
high road of the slave trade, the most frequented line
of communication from the settlements of the Arabs on
the Lualaba to the Tanganjdka.

My health, meanwhile, did not improve at all. I
was exceedingly weak, and constantly in low spirits.
One day, overcome by melancholy, I gave vent in my
diary to complaints at the life in the wilderness which I
here repeat, as there is a great deal of truth in them,
whilst at the same time they give the reader an idea of
the frame of mind in which a European, weakened by
fever, may find himself. ' What a strange profession it is
that I have chosen ! How different is one's idea of the
life in the wilderness when at home ! Where is the
feeling of satisfaction at one's work ? where the charm
of danger ? where the relief at having escaped from it ?
where, in short, the least poetry of life ? How is it that
we are so seldom suffered to enjoy the beauty of nature ?
Never under the scorching rays of the tropical sun have
you such a feeling of unconquerable strength as you
may have at home ; your breast never expands in exul-

MISEBABLE EXISTENCE AND PBIVATIONS 243

tation at your own powers. JSTot a single one of the
many choice enjoyments of our country is to be found
here.

' What a miserable existence it is ! what privations,
disappointments, and anxiety one has to struggle with, in
the midst of unpleasant surroundings ! Nature mostly
offers a dull repetition of the same desolate wilderness,
either oppressed by a scorching sun or mouldering with
continual damp. We move along like captives, hemmed
in by the almost impenetrable vegetation, which does not
even suffer our eyes to refresli themselves with a distant
view. Who are the companions of our present lives ?
Poor, naked, stupid children, without trust or faith, with-
outjieart or feeling for the sublime, thinking of nothing
but the satisfaction of their meanest wants, without
any higher thought, any nobler aim. Eound about, only
misery, wretchedness, and stupidity or barbarism, savage-
ness and want of feeling. A continual struggle with
the climate, and everlasting anxiety about the success
of plans ; while trouble and failure constantly occupy
our minds. Is this country, are these people worth
labouring for? What results can offer a recompense
for such sacrifices? Could we not find a worthier
object in our endeavour to be useful ? '

Such were the thoughts that tormented me while
physically suffering. But no sooner did I gain new
strength than hope would return, and aims worth striv-
ing for would float before my mind ; at such times
tlie difficulties of my present existence became bear-
able.

I daily met caravans headed by Arabs or Beloochees

B 2

244 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

bound for the Lualaba or Stanley Falls, here called
' Mitaml^a.' They generally brought powder and guns
with them, scarcely any stuffs and beads. Nearly all the
Arabs, as well as most of the leaders of the caravans,
had good breech-loaders and plenty of ammunition.
We found nearly all the English systems in use.

My ransomed Baluba diminished in numbers daily,
either hy death or from being lost in the wilderness.
The Baluba, mostly big strong-boned fellows, had re-
sisted the effects of our starvino- marches longer than
the Bashilange, but they now began to tell on them.
They became apathetic, manageable neither by kind-
ness nor force, and completely idiotic. Neither the
numbers of corpses and limbs on the road, nor the
shrieks of the hyenas in broad daylight, which I had
never heard before, could induce them to keep up on
the way and not succumb to fatigue. I believe that
m.any of them who had fallen asleep on the road must
have been devoured by beasts of prey, or, as a good find,
have been taken back to the west by passing caravans. In
this manner I lost several loads together with the Baluba,
which was a serious matter for me. The quiet of the
night was incessantly disturbed l)y the horrible howling
or baying of the hyena, the hoarse growling of the leopard,
and the piercing bark of the jackal. Although the
country abounded with game, the beasts of prey found
more convenient food in the slaves who had succumbed
to exhaustion.

In some small villages near our route we found a
new kind of slave-hunters, who set about their work in
a less dangerous way than is the case in the attacks

TKAXSPOIT OF SL-WES

ON THE MABGH 245

made by the natives. These people lie in wait on
the road, seizing straggling slaves, and, offering pro-
visions for sale in the camp, they induce others to run
away, so as to sell them at last at Ujiji on the Tan-
ganyika.

Our march on this large caravan road enabled us to
make minute studies of the imports to, and exports from,
Central Africa. While those coming towards us only
carried arms and ammunition into the interior, we met
a few days later three caravans who were taking the
proceeds of these imports to the coast — some ivory, and
hundreds of slaves, fastened together with long chains and
neck-yokes in sets of from ten to twenty. The weaker
women and children, who were not expected to escape,
were only tied with ropes. Those who had to be
especially watched were walking by twos in the
mukongua, the slave-fork, in which the neck is fas-
tened. One would scarcely credit the miserable and
lamentable condition the unfortunate human chattels
were in. Their arms and legs were almost fleshless,
their bodies shrivelled up, their looks heavy and their
heads bent, while they were marching along eastward
into an unknown future, farther and farther away from
their homes, separated from wife and child, from father
and mother, who had perhaps escaped into the woods or
had been struck down in defending themselves. It was
a revolting scene to watch the daily distribution of food
in the camp of such a caravan.

The hungry creatures, with dilating eyes, were
crowding round the spot where one of the overseers
was stationed to distribute victuals, now and then

246 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

using his stick to drive back the crowcl'^ that were
pressing close round him. A small pot, about the size
of a tumbler, was filled with corn, maize, or millet, and
poured into the goat's skin with which they covered
their nakedness. Some of them, too tired to rub or
pound the corn, simply boiled it in water or roasted it in
a saucepan over the fire, and then devoured it in order
to satisfy their craving hunger. Before the different
sets were allowed to lie down they were once more
driven out of the camp, and then they would throw
themselves down near one of the large fires to rest their
exhausted bodies. The slaves were mostly bound to-
gether according to their powers of marching, without
the least regard to sex. Scarcely the fourth part of
these reach the maritime countries or the plantations of
the coasters they are bound for. The large Arab
settlements in the interior, chiefly Ujiji and Tabora,
absorb great numbers of slaves, especially the former,
which is notorious for its bad climate. A working
slave — in distinction from the female slaves, who are put
into the harem — at Ujiji is said not to stand the climate
above a year.

One day, when I was lying in wait for buffaloes near
the camp, I was surprised to see, instead of the game, a
boy of about eight years of age come out of the thicket,
cautiously approaching a place that commanded a view of
our camp. When I left my covert he was at first going
to take flight, but afterwards followed me into the camp.
The boy had escaj)ed from a slave caravan, and he told us
that he had always picked up any remnants of food that
might have been left in the places of encampment after

HALT AT THE TANGANYIKA LAKE 247

the departure of caravans. He had passed his nights
on a tree, in the branches of which he had arranged his
bed. He joined us on our march, but died soon after
of small-pox, to which disease more people of my small
caravan had to succumb.

On April 4 I despatched some men to the Tangan-
yika to announce my arrival, and beg for admission
from the English missionaries, who had formerly been
settled on this side of the lake, and had now taken up
their abode in the isle of Kawala.

On the 6th we completed our march through the
monotonous forests of Ubujive, and the smooth surface
of the Tanganyika Lake put us pleasantly in mind of
the sea. We halted close to the beach at the part of
Mtoa, where there were several dhows which had been
brought from Ujiji by Arabs, bound for the Lualaba ;
these were now to take up a slave caravan that was in
waiting. This lake is the cause of many a sacrifice of
human life. The small sailing vessels from Ujiji are so
crammed with people that in bad weather, which in the
rainy season often sets in with thunderstorms, tiiose in
charge of them are frequently obliged to throw a
number of slaves overboard, so as to save at least part
of them. It is a fact that on such an occasion lately
an Arab had twelve slaves thrown overboard so as to
save his two valuable Maskat donkeys.

On the evening of the 6th, Mr. Larson, from the
mission in Kawala, arrived at the |)ort, bringing a kind
letter of welcome from Mr. Horn. Mr. Horn's wife
and child were ill, and consequently he was prevented
from coming himself. On the 7th we sailed in a dhow

248 THE 0 UGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

chartered by an Arab, and after a two hours' sail along
the beautifully situated port of Kawala, we reached
the missionary station, where we were kindly made
welcome and lodged as comfortably as could be
managed in a newly-established station.

ON THE TAXGANYIKA

CHAPTEE IX

TO THE NYASSA

Warning against going to the coast— At Ujiji— My going to tlie south —
My exliausted Bah^ba left with the missionaries — The lake and its
discharge — Night journeys— Storm— Mpala— Correct proceeding of
the missions— Galula's death —Leopards— Baboons — Progress by land
— Water banks —Flight of some carriers— Superstition— Extortions —
Wawemba nnirderers — Scotch mission — Mr. Bain on ethnology — On
the Nyassa — Clouds of insects.

The first thing I learned from Mr. Horn was that dis-
turbances were apprehended on the coast. He ascribed
this danger to the advance of the German East African
Society, which — a piece of news to me — had recently
been formed and had settled on the coast. The Germans
were said to be overbearing and domineering over the

250 THROUGH EQUATOIUAL AFBICA

natives and Arabs, without having the power to impose
their superiority. He said that the Arabs were in-
furiated by the Germans, and that in a short time the
discontent would break into open rebeUion. They were
especially angry that the Sultan (Said Bargash) should
have resigned lands to the Germans, and in consequence
they threatened to renounce their allegiance to the
former. The skirmish on Staidey Falls, too, had aggra-
vated their bad feeling towards the Europeans. He
said that at that time Tabora, where not long ago a
German had been murdered, was the principal seat of
discontent. Mr. Horn warned me, if I were going to
the coast, not to take the main road by Tabora ; the
only open one, which the missionaries also availed them-
selves of. was across the Nyassa and Shire.

I did not make any plans for the present, as I
wanted to learn particulars at Ujiji as to whether there
would be any possibility, if I started north of the Tan-
ganyika, of reaching Albert Lake, and the European
(Emin Bey) who had been driven thither with many
troops and great stores of ivory.

And now, without any stoppage, and favoured by
the wind, I crossed over to Ujiji, which I reached after
an hour and a half's sail. I knew the two principal
Arabs at ITjiji, named Xasorro bin Zef and Mohammed
bin Half an, as I had travelled with them on former
occasions. Their reception of me was civil, but cool.
These two, from their ^Doint of view, corroborated all
I had learned from Mr. Horn. I turned the conversa-
tion to Emin Bey, of whom they did not know any par-
ticulars ; on the other hand, thev told me that a German

I DECIDE TO SAIL DOWN THE TANGANYIKA 251

from there had come, some months ago, with j)lenty of
ivory, to Tabora, and reached the coast together with
Tibbu Tibb. This was Dr. Junker.

On asking how I could possibly get to Emin from
the north of the Tanganyika, I w^as told that such a
thing was out of the question, the tribes north of the
Tanganyika, the Wasongora Mino, being numerous and
warlike ; nor could I avoid Unioro, whose king, Kaba
Eega, was at war there with the whites. They could not
supply me with any people, having just sent large cara-
vans to the coast ; and last, not least, they refused to
advance me a laro-e sum of monev which I should have
needed in order to buy from them arms, ammunition,
and stuffs for a new expedition. They considered the
understanding with the Europeans so unsatisfactory
that a war might possibly break out, in which case they
thought they would lose their money.

I found them willing for a heavy sum — knowing
how greedy the Arabs are after English gold, I always
carried some with me for any cases of emergency — to
provide me with a vessel for the journey to the south
of the Tanganyika, since even they did not consider it
advisable to go to the coast by way of Tabora, wdiere
war was ra^ino- between the oreat chief Sicke and the
Arabs. It was with "reat reluctance that I thus oave
up any further attempt to be of direct use to the Congo
State, and decided upon sailing down the Tanganyika
on the side of the Congo State, and going to the coast
by way of Nyassa, Shire, and Zambesi.

On making inquiries about a journey to Emin Bey,
I learned that the Arabs had advanced to the north of

252 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

the Tanganyika and founded settlements on Kiwu Lake,
which was said to be five days' journey north of the
Tanganyika and to have two discharges, one into Tan-
ganyika and another to the west into the Lualaba.
Three days' journey farther north was, as I ascertained,
Akaniaru Lake, the country surrounding which was
said to be beautiful and rich in abundance of water and
grass. The natives were reported to own many valu-
able kinds of cattle.

Ujiji had lost much of its importance ; the greatest
attraction at present came from the rich resources of
Mitamba, i.e. the countries from Nyangwe down the
Lualaba, which Tibbu Tibb had been the first Arab to
invade when accompanying Stanley. Everyone was
going to Mitamba, there being jDlenty of ivory, and the
natives of those parts still carrying spears and bows, in
consequence of which it was easy to conquer them.

Since my last sojourn here, the Tanganyika had? fallen
above a metre, and consequently the anchorage ground
was pushed far out. I chartered a manned dhow, pur-
chased 550 dollars' worth of goods for the journey from
the Tanganyika to JSTyassa, and on the 11th I crossed
over from Ujiji to Kawala, where I had left Bugslag
and my people. Our vessel was so old and so full of
vermin, that I turned back after an hour's sail, in order
to exchange it for another that had just come in. This
boat was built after the European fashion and was a
good sailer. So I did not set sail till the 12th, in the
evening of which day I cast anchor off Cape Kabogo,
where I passed the night. Twice we were roused by
the near roaring of a lion and by natives approaching

SEA-NETTLES 253

our fire ; they were probably bent on theft, but, on
hearing the cHcking of the gun-barrels, they quickly
disappeared. Next day I crossed the lake. I was
greatly astonished to observe a number of sea-nettles
surrounding our boat for about half an hour. They
were transparent, of the shape of a disk and like a
mark-piece in size ; round the edge was a milky circle,
hanging down in fibres, by means of which they swam.
Though the Malagarassi, the chief tributary of the
Tanganyika, contains a good deal of salt, one cannot
but call the Tanganyika a fresh-water lake, and in
such sea-nettles are very seldom seen. I was sorry not
to have any means of preserving some of these rare
creatures.

On the loth I reached Kawala, and at once got
ready for continuing my journey. My Baluba were
incapable of accompanying me farther. I might have
taken some of them with me, but I was unwillino- to
separate this little band of people. Here, under care
of the mission, the Baluba were as safe as possible from
any acts of violence on the part of the Arabs. Here
they remained, superintended by a white man. Mr.
Horn suggested that they might earn something by
serving the mission, and with this view I bought a
deserted village and a plantation belonging to it, from
the chief who introduced himself as the owner of the
island. I left the Baluba fourteen guns, the ammunition
for which I gave into Mr. Horn's care, twelve goats, a
number of fowls, salt, pick-axes, hatchets, pots and pans,
and other utensils. I also gave into the keepino- of one
of the missionaries beads and stuff, so as to supply them

254 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

with means of obtaining food until their fields should
yield all they required. The most intelligent of them,
who had distinguished himself as leader of the Baluba,
I made chief of this small community, enjoining him
always to keep to the Europeans, and to ask their
advice in any difficulties ; if he found an opportunity
of joining a reliable caravan bound for his country he
was to do so. As I conjectured that the Congo State
would soon build a station at this lake, its eastern
boundary, I regarded these Baluba, each of whom had
his wife with him, as a select tribe of people standing
apart from the rest of the population. Consequenth^
the chief was instructed to offer his services and those of
his people, should a station under the star-flag be estab-
lished anywhere on the lake. The soil at Kawala was
apparently good, the lake abounded with fish, the main-
land was easy of access in a small canoe, and, the
channel between the mainland and the island being well
sheltered, there was plenty of game, so that, as regards
the future of my people, I continued my journey with-
out any anxiety. Three bulls, which naturally could
not be taken in the small vessel, I assigned to the
mission, requesting that they might be placed at the
disposal of any European.

Now commenced the shipping of the few loads
that I still possessed, and general preparations for the
journey. I, Bugslag, ten coast negroes with four
women and two little dogs, one a terrier and the other
a cross-breed of a terrier and African pariah dog, and
the boatmen, formed the new suite.

On April 15 we took leave of Mr. Horn, his brave

THE LUKUGA 255

wife — the first white Lady who had ventured so far into
the Dark Continent — and the other gentlemen of the
mission, to whom we were greatly indebted for their
kind reception. We reached Lukuga Bay by the aid of
a good breeze ; nearly all my people were sea-sick, as
we encountered such breakers as rarely occur in an
inland sea. This lake, surrounded by high banks,
extendino- nearly eio-hty German miles from south to
north, experiences for almost half the year southerly
winds, which are always very high in the daytime, while
they calm down in the evening and cease altogether at
night. During this time, however, there is an uninter-
rupted gale from the south, which often proves fatal to
small vessels.

The Lukuga, an effluent of the Tanganyika, carries
more water out of the lake into the Lualaba than the
Malagarassi and the numerous lesser affluents annually
supply. The level of the lake consequently sinks about
two feet annually. This will last. until the water-mark
of the lake is on a level with the bottom of the Lukusfa
bed, when the discharge must cease. Sand-downs,
stretching along near the bank of the Lukuga, cause
the bed of the river, as soon as it is dry, to be filled up
with sand and particles of vegetation carried down b}''
brooks, falling into the Lukuga more quickly than the
rising of the Tanganyika. After twenty 3^ears' continual
rising, the discharge being stopped, the level of the lake
has again attained such a height that it overflows the
level of the filled-up bed of the Lukuga, and thus
forcibly breaks open the old discharging channel.
Stanley in 1874 found no effluent, whilst I in 1882

256 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

found the Lukuga to be a wide, rapid effluent of the
Tanganyika. Thus, between Stanley's and my visit, the
lake has swollen so much as to force open its old
channel of exit. Now again I found that the con-
stantly falling lake was lower by sixteen feet than the
highest water-mark which could be discerned. This
periodical rising and falling of the lake naturally causes
the banks to change, which is a great detriment to navi-
gation. At a later time, when the civilisation of Africa
shall have so progressed that it may have a regular
system of navigation, there will l3e no difficulty in regu-
lating the water-mark of the lake by a flood-gate at the
effluence of the Lukuga. My boatmen from Ujiji well
knew these peculiar occurrences on the Lukuga, but
were not able to find out the cause.

The Wajiji are very skilful sailors ; they know all
about wind and weather, which is however easy enough,
considering the great regularity of meteorological phe-
nomena here. They know every part, every stone; they
keep on a good footing with the people on the river-
side, and know how to manage sails and oars. After
making our boat cut through the surge, which was
effected with difficulty, we pitched our camp near the
Lukuga under the overhanging wall of a rock.

When bathinglwas struck by the great regularity with
which the rubble-stones had arranged themselves near
the shore. Large stones covered the beach, smaller
pebbles were disposed under the shallow water, whilst
lower down I discovered gravel, and at last sand. The
water of the lake is clear, of a somewhat brackish taste,
caused, I suppose, by its saline contents. The banks

,i Jil

H ■

THE EUHEGA RIVER

257

are covered with many different shells. Sea-gulls were
very plentiful, whereas I saw fresh-water birds only
near the mouths of rivers and brooks. These were
the only spots where we found hippopotami and cro-
codiles, which are said to venture exceptionally far
into the lake. I agreed with the guide of my Wajiji
to travel henceforth only in the night-time. During
the day we had to encounter high breakers and a smart

.^r-^"^ - »;*?/^.^

CAMP ON THE LUKUGA

breeze, which made rowing very difficult. To tack
against the south wind would have detained us too long.
In the evening, as I mentioned above, it generally grew
calmer, or a gentle land breeze would set in, enabling
us to sail along the coast southward. Towards the
morning of the 17th we reached the mouth of the
Euhega river, with a labyrinth of islets and banks, of
lagoons and channels. Birds were very plentiful and

258 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

crocodiles were abundant. The banks reached pretty
regularly a height of from 100 to 150 metres. The
slopes displayed savannahs of trees and underwood,
while the ravines, reaching down into the lake, were
thickly wooded. Population seemed to be scanty ; while
game, chiefly antelopes, were now and then observed
near the water.

We always proceeded on our nocturnal journeys
until the smart morning breeze set in, when we sought
refuge in a sheltering part and rested until the abating
of the wind permitted us to continue our journey.
Since no bodily exertion was required for the journey,
and our people could sleep in the boat, our progress
depended only on the weather. Bugslag and I took
turns at steering. The setting in of the southern breeze,
often very stormy, was repeatedly very strange in
appearance. For example, on the morning of the 18th
an immense cloud in the shape of a cylinder came rolling
towards us. Short showers followed this, accompanied
by a whistling wind. Several times we were able to
move on in the afternoon and till dawn the next day.

Our Wajiji would sometimes throw beads and pieces
of stuff into the water in order to pacify the water-spirit.
When the weather was calm, and I forced them to take
the oars, they would wheeze like German water-rats.
As the thunder-storms during the rainy season often
bring violent gales in their train, a vessel used on the
Tanganyika should be a thoroughly seaworthy ship.
The steamer belonging to the mission, which was being
finished in the port of Kawala, was suitable enough in
its construction, though I do not approve of the system.

OUB BECEPTION AT MPLA 259

which was that of a saiHng vessel with an auxiUary
engine. I should prefer a proper steamer, which at the
same time would permit the setting of sails. Within
200 metres off the coast we found the water deep and
bare of stones or banks ; it was only near the mouths
of rivers that we had to keep farther out. The anchor-
age ground consisted mostly of sand or rubble-stones.

And now I must once more avail myself of the
opportunity to point out that for civilisation and the
suppression of the slave trade this lake would be of
the greatest importance. A steamer carrying a small
number of guns and fifty soldiers would be well able to
block up the lake and would suffice to support stations
on the banks. Such a boat would keep a station from
starvation, being able to furnish it with provisions from
every part of the lake. If only every Arab vessel
putting into any other than one of the few permitted
stations were destroyed, there would be no difficulty in
limiting the communication on the lake to places easy
of control. Any hiding of vessels is out of the question
with those open banks.

On the 19tli we reached the former station of the
Congo State, Mpla, now taken possession of by the
Algerian mission ; we had shortly before sought shelter
close to the land, on account of heavy storms, a rough
sea, and waterspouts. On entering the Lufuku, the
port of the station, the high surge caused a great deal
of water to be washed on board.

We were most kindly received by Peres Landeau
and Moinit and Captain Joubert, whom I had known

260 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

formerly. Through a long village, inhabited by ran-
somed people belonging to the mission, we passed
into the temba, built of very thick clay walls, and
capable of being well fortified. Great order and proofs
of diligent labour met the eye everywhere ; practical
o'ood sense and knowledofe were noticeable in all the
arrangements.

In the afternoon the chapel was filled with 200 people,
and the religious worship, the singing and praying,
proceeded without a fault. The plantations and gardens
of the mission must answer every purpose. Barley and
rice were thriving well. The greatest drawback of the
station was its position, there being no port ; for the
beach and the shallow mouth of the Lufuku were con-
stantly under breakers, and the defensible building was
too far from the beach to maintain a safe connection
with any vessel. The good understanding with the
natives was of great advantage for this mission. It
had been established by the last chief of the Congo
State station. Captain Storms, and by prudence and
energy had been kept up ever since. Captain Joubert,
the present chief, had of late repeatedly defended the
natives against slave-traders, and, supported by natives
and fifty armed men of the station, he had vanquished
and punished several such hordes. Such success could
only have the best results. When a European proves to
be not only a missionary but at the same time a defender
of the liberty and property of the natives, he cannot
fail to be looked up to. Now I greatly regretted not
having brought my Baluba here, but such an increase
of their proteges being very desirable to the heads of the

DEATH OF G ALULA 261

station, I gave them a letter to Mr. Horn, whom I
requested to effect the transport of the Baluba from
Kawahi to this place.

The mission having for the present only taken
charge of the station, which was still the property of the
Congo State, it was not only desirable, but my duty to
instal here the people who had been ransomed by means
of the King of the Belgians and who had hitherto been
maintained by him.

After having amply supplied ourselves with provi-
sions, we continued our journey on the 21st. After dark
we met a vessel in which I recognised a European,
We went on board, and I greeted Pere Drommeau, whom
I had likewise met before, and who was coming from
Karema, a station on the eastern bank of the Tanganyika
belonging to the same mission.

Next morning, when we dropped anchor on account
of the south wind, one of our men suddenly burst
into loud lamentations. On going to awake his wife
Galula from a deep sleep, he had discovered that she
was dead. The poor woman had suffered from sea-
sickness throughout our journey ; she was so much
weakened that for some days she had eaten nothing, and
had been lying half asleep in continual apathy. On
my suggestion that she should remain at the mission at
Mpla, she had replied, ' How am I, then, to meet again
my friends on the Lulua, if you want to leave me here ? '
As we could not detect any cause for her death, I con-
jectured that gradual weakening through sea-sickness
had been the reason. We dug a grave for poor Galula,
and marked the spot by a number of large stones.

262 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFBICA

which we built up in the form of a cross. The loss of
our ever cheerful and industrious friend Galula was
much lamented by us all.

When we had pitched our camp there arose such a
storm on the night of the 23rd that it blew my tent
down. The thunderstorms began to be more violent
and frequent. When we resumed our journey we
sailed for three hours through yellow-tinted water ;
the colour was owing to small flakes, probably the seeds
of a water plant. The banks became more rocky and
picturesque ; huge boulders forming high precipices
caused immense breakers. From the boat we observed
a couple of leopards with two cubs basking on one of
the rocks. I landed with Bugslag, but we missed the
chance of firing at them by trying to creep closer along ;
the handsome creatures had disappeared in the maze
of rocks. Vexed at our failure, we were just about to
return, when deep below us among the rubble we dis-
tinctly heard the mewing of the young leopards, but
could not in any way succeed in getting at them.

The banks grew more and more splendid. Im-
mense pillars projected into the deep green water ;
passages and caves more than ten metres high opened
out below the rocks. The wild scenery, now and again
interrupted by luxuriant vegetation in connection with
the conformations of the rocks, presented a striking
picture. A herd of about 100 baboons suffered us to
pass them without showing any more irritation than
the short disconnected tones of surprise peculiar to
them, which resemble the startled cry of a roebuck.
By shooting into the water, not at the monkeys — for

MULTITUDE OF BABOONS

263

ever since I saw a large a^^e in the agony of death I have
entirely lost my taste for such animal hunts — a most
ridiculous scene was brought about. Shrieks, bark-
ing, and quarrelling pro-
ceeded from each throat
of this young party. The
strange figures, among
which we were struck
by some species of near-
ly double the ordinary
size, waddled and gal-
loped in grotesque leaps
up the precipice, and a
shower of rubble and
stones, among them boul-
ders of several hundred-
weight, kept tumbling
down to us into the lake.
Our people roared with
laughter, and would have
it that the monkeys had
aimed at us. For further
observation I shot once
more, and again a shower
of stones pelted down
upon us, so that I felt
inclined to agree with
the Wajiji; for the number of stones was too great to
have rolled down accidentally under the movements of
the flying monkeys.

In the sj)lendidly clear waters, in which we could see

FEIGHTENED B.U500NS

264 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFBIGA

stones at about fifteen metres' distance, we noticed great
abundance of fish, by wliicli our Wajiji greatly profited.

The more we approached the south end of the lake
the more the wind turned to the east. In spite of the
area of the breakers getting smaller and smaller, the
sea, nearly to the southern extremity of the lake, was
very boisterous.

On the 24th, at the mouth of the Lunangua, we met
natives with goods and chattels, and numerous canoes,
apparently in the act of leaving the neighbourhood.
We learned that the rapacious expeditions of an Arab
were the cause of their flight, but that they would
return to their villages as soon as the banditti should
have retreated. Wherever we had happened to come
upon natives they had met us kindly and pacifically,
selling food, chiefly fish, to us at a low price. The
lower we came south, the steeper were the slopes falling
into the lake ; but we rarely found a position suitable
for a camp in narrow places, covered with stones,
pebbles, or sand. Any cultivation of these slopes was,
of course, not to be thought of ; the liea^^y rains would
wash everything away. For this reason, the banks are
very thinly populated.

On the 29th, south of the mouth of the Lufuwu, in
a sheltered part, we came to the end of our journey, the
road from the Nyassa terminating on the Tanganyika.
So it had only taken us fifteen days to travel a distance
of about 375 kilometres, with the help of the oars and
a land breeze, mostly blowing in the night only. Ac-
cording to an arrangement with Mr. Horn, we were here
to find one of his boats, whose occupants, familiar with

TOWABDS THE NYASSA 265

the local state of affairs, were to hire some carriers from
me. The boat having left the same morning to buy
provisions, we had to wait, and pitched our camp in a
bpot where there had formerly been a missionary station,
which now was only to be recognised by the grave of a
European. I sent back the sailing vessel, while we
passed our time hunting in this district, which abounded
with antelopes and buffaloes.

On May 3 the promised boat arrived with seven
carriers and the message that the rest would come by
land. Soon after, a troop of five men arrived, then
another of ten ; they waited for two days, and then left
again to fetch the others ; in short, we had to furnish
ourselves with African patience, until at last I succeeded
in assembling the thirty missing carriers on the evening
of the 9tli. On the eve of our start the Marungu —
to which tribe the peoj^le belonged — performed their
war-dances. They killed some goats to brace them-
selves for the march, and on the 10th we at length
moved on towards the ISTyassa.

From Niumkorlo on the lake we ascended the steep
and rocky slope ; we passed the Nunsua and Manbesi,
and encamped in the wilderness in a meadow pleasantly
relieved by an immeasurable tree-savannah. The rainy
season having set in, many water-courses were rushing
down to the lake in magnificent cascades, which, wher-
ever they came to a standstill, formed bogs and pools,
and so afforded a favourite resort for buffaloes.

Guinea-fowls were very plentiful, and for the last
few days had rarely been wanting on board. I never
saw wild grapes so large and sweet as tliey were here.

266

THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

On the second day's march we had gained the sum-
mit of the plateau, and after a very fatiguing journey
encamped near a small lake named Kiila, which, 1,500
metres in length and 1,000 metres in breadth, lay sur-
rounded by rushes in the midst of the forest.

Among the reeds and small grass bunches surround-

BETWEEN TANGANYIKA AND NYASSA

ing the bog we noticed many water-rams, Bugslag and
I hit four of them ; they were severely wounded, but
escaped without our being able to secure them. The
terrain being quite open and level, we ascertained that
the antelopes did not get away, but remained in the
bog ; but though half of the carriers searched it they
found nothing. The natives said that this antelope,

WATCH-TOWEB

267

which hves ahnost exclusively near the water, would
dip under if hit ; at any rate, the animals knew how to
hide in the boggy terrain among the reeds, so that they
appeared to be swallowed up. The little lake was about
200 metres above the level of the Tanganyika.

On the 12th we passed the Bississi and Mapensa, two

WATCH-TOWER NEAR BISSISSI

villages strongly fortified with palisades. Near them
we noticed small hills covered with a kind of pavilion,
lurking-places whence the surrounding country was
watched by outposts. These high tomb-like mounds
are formed by all the village people carrying their
refuse to the same place.

On the morning of the 13 th I was surprised by the

268 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

disagreeable news that sixteen carriers, who, like the
rest, had received half of their wages in advance, had
deserted. I succeeded in hiring people from Kitim-
bue, who engaged to carry our loads to the camp
of a Beloochee, Kahunda, which we were to reach
that day. But on approaching another village, with
whose inhabitants our new carriers were at enmity,
they also threw down their loads and fled. The camp
of the Beloochee being only a few hours distant, I
sent Fickerini with two of my Angola people to
Kahunda, requesting him to furnish me with carriers.
In the afternoon my messengers returned with thirty
savao^e Euga-Euo-a, i.e. Waniamwesi soldiers. On their
approach the inhabitants of the village where I en-
camped took up arms and opposed this horde of the
slave-catcher. I at once rushed among the natives, and
promised them that the Euga-Euga should not enter
their village. I took the latter to my camp, where I at
once distributed the loads and started.

In the evenino- we reached a villao-e where Kahunda
had settled. He was a deserted soldier of the Sultan
Said Bargash, and was on his way to purchase ivory and
slaves west of the Tanganyilva. He had settled down
here, having got up a quarrel with the natives, from
whom, after defeating them, he wanted to extort
tribute. Each of the 300 savage Euga-Euga, armed
with spear and bow, wore ornaments of plumes and a
scarlet cloak, a dress which was admirably adapted for
enabling them to make an intimidating impression on
the natives. Kahunda knew Eeichardt, from whom he
had learned much about the abundance of o'old in the

AFRICAN SUPERSTITION 2G9

country of tlie Katanga under their chief Msiri. After
increasing his numbers by allying himself with other
Arabs, he proposed going thither to find gold.

Kahunda first promised to let me have carriers next
day, but when it came he revoked his promise, as he
felt induced to attack a neighbouring village, whence a
man in the shape of a lion had carried off one of his
people. The belief that human beings can assume the
shape of wild beasts is universal in Africa. Whenever
anybody is torn by a beast of prey, they find out by
some manipulation who has been the sorcerer who had
changed him into a wild beast. On a former occasion,
in a conversation with Tibbu Tibb, who is on the whole
rather enlio-htened, I was astonished to find him clinoino-
to this superstition. Cases like this are often an occa-
sion of war in Africa.

For some time past I had been suffering from
feverish attacks, with excessive shivering. The scanty
unvaried food, but chiefly the mental strain during our
march west of the Lualuba, had brought my constitu-
tion very low.

On my urging a start, an Arab, a business con-
nection of Kahunda's, likewise bound for the Nyassa,
offered to supply the desired number of people. T
bought a saddle-donkey of Kahunda, as my bodily weak-
ness forbade my walking so long a distance. The donke}^
was such a wreck that I had to give it back next day,
and the Angola people made a hammock for me in case
of exhaustion. Kahunda told me of the murder of the
German Giesecke at Ilnianjembe, and maintained that
Tibbu Tibb had been in the plot, or at any rate had been

270 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

aware of it. He said that Tibbu Tibb might have pre-
vented it, which to anyone acquainted with African affairs
is quite obvious. The reason for this statement against
one of his own faith was, that Tibbu Tibb a few months
before had forced Kahunda, on one of his expeditions
along the coast, to pay him five elephant tusks for
having pillaged one of his villages. This shows that even
then Tibbu Tibb was powerful enough to extend his
plundering raids to coasters, petty Arabs, and Beloo-
chees. In return for high pay, the Arab friend of
Kahunda engaged himself to accompany me with his
people, so that after all I was able to start on the 15th.
We passed the Saise river, which flows down to the Eiqua
or Kuqua Lake, and marched through an entire plain,
covered with short grass, here and there abounding with
antelopes, to the village of Munieama.

Since leaving the Tanganyika we had not seen the
sun ; the sky had always been clouded, a misty rain
had fallen incessantly, and the weather had been very
cold. Munieama, like all the villages we passed, was
built close to the waterside, and had wells inside the
solid palisades that surrounded it. Double doors with
small openings led into the interior. The round clay
houses were surrounded by a circular half-closed ve-
randah, covered with a far-projecting thatched roof.
Storehouses, raised high on account of the damp, con-
tained maize, millet, potatoes, and pea-nuts. Manioc
is not grown, and the corn, rubbed between hollow
stones, is not pounded.

We were now in the Mambue country, the people
of which are always in a state of hostility with the

ABAB EXTOBTIONS 271

rapacious Wawemba, who live farther south. Ahiiost
every large village in these parts has forty to fifty cows
and nearly 200 goats. During this journey I saw for
the first time traces of the rhinoceros, the zebra, and the
giraffe.

Now commenced the numerous petty inconveniences
which a traveller is exposed to in the border countries,
and which were of course avoided when travelling with
my Bashilange and my veterans. Premature demands
for food and extortions of all kinds on the part of the
carriers, begging supported by threats by the chiefs, and
— the worst of all — extortions on the part of the Arab
who accompanied me — all these were troubles that almost
overwhelmed me in my then weak state. The Arab
first asked for my revolver and my rifle, and, on my not
granting his request, he flatly refused to accompany me
any longer with his followers, so that once more I had
twenty loads on my hands without carriers. When
he actually prepared to carry his intention into effect,
nothing was left me but to give what he asked. I sent
him my revolver, instructing Fickerini to tell him that
I had not before known that an Arab would stoop to
beg like a negro chief. He sent back the revolver, and
then we started.

After this we entered the river system of the Cham-
bese (river), the largest tributary of the Bangueolo Lake.
Thus, in a space of ten hours' march, we had touched
the aflluents of three lakes, first that of the Tanganyika,
then of the Eiqua, and finally of the Bangueolo, without
having crossed an elevation of only a few metres' height
which served as a separation.

272 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

After the 18tli the results of the nefarious traffic in
human beings, in the shape of burnt villages, fields laid
waste, and human skulls lying on the road, again began
to meet our eyes. The Arabs on Lake Nyassa are the ori-
ginators of the local slave-hunt. They very seldom come
up here themselves, but they have their go-betweens
in the savao^e hordes of Uemba. The inhabitants of
this country, the Wawemba, who formerly, under the
notorious chief Kitimkuru, were its terror, now con-
tinued their doings under his son. The Wawemba
convey their goods to the Nyassa, and there sell them in
the settlements of the Arabs in exchange for guns and
ammunition. According to custom, they only bring
women and children ; the men are invariably killed
and beheaded. Among the Wawemba there exists a
perfectly developed rank, determined by the number of
heads of the enemies they have killed. This was the
reason that we often saw human skeletons, but never
skulls. The Arabs bring their slaves across the Nyassa,
thence chiefly to the Lindi, Kilwa, and Mikindani, but
rarely farther south, so that the slave coast of Africa is
the coast of German East Africa from Mikindani up to
Tanga. Only a few days before, a horde of Wawemba
had passed this road, and we repeatedly found fresh
traces of their presence. The consequence was, that
my people marched in close formation and would not
leave the camp.

On our meeting a caravan bound for the Tanganyika,
some of my native carriers again tried to make their
escape. Being prepared for this, I had them seized. T
then deprived them of their arms, and those not to be

THE WAWEMBA 273'

depended on I had tied together and watched by some
Angola people : for in this district, for the most part
laid waste, I shonld have been unable to hire new
carriers, not to speak of those I had having been paid
for their services to the Nyassa.

A daily pleasant change of scene was caused by
frequent little cupolas of the height of a barrow, dis-
playing huge blocks of Plutonic rocks and massive
bits of rubble. Among them, a close growth of trees
formed little bowers in the plain, which, however, was
chiefly covered only with short grass. The brooks be-
came muddy and the low land round them was covered
with dark emerald grass, under whose surface was of
course an unfathomable slough. On the 21st, stony hills
mantled with wood savannahs interrupted the mono-
tonous prairie. These were the heights forming the par-
tition between the Lualaba, the Congo, and the Zambesi ;
for on the slopes on this side the network of brooks fell
into the Loange, a tril^utary of the Zambesi. Since
setting foot on the African continent this time I had
traversed the Congo territory to almost its greatest
length.

We were surprised by frequently finding natives
encamped before their hidden villages, ready for war or
flight ; they were expecting an attack of the Wawemba at
any moment. Women and children always slej)t in the
wood, and did not return to the village before morning,
for the Wawemba rarely attack by day, while the
negroes seldom engage in any enterprise by night, but
usually choose the morning hour. The poor creatures
always took similar measures of precaution when any

274 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Wawemba were reported to be near. These villages
reminded me of the ostrich, which, when pursued, hides
its head that it may not be seen. The villages are
built with strong palisades in the closest thickets, where
certainly an approach is made difficult; but those
approaching cannot be detected, nor can the palisades
be defended. I wondered that the inhabitants of these
parts did not seek another home, instead of remaining
here to be hunted like wild beasts, and not for one
moment sure of their freedom or their lives.

The Arab of my suite, whose men were carrying the
greater number of the loads, hindered me on the pretence
of the over-fatigue of his people, thus forcing me re-
peatedly to arrange days of rest ; so that I did not
reach Mwena Wanda, a Scotch missionary station, till
the 26th. Mr. Bain, the head of the station, gave me
a very kindly welcome, and at once began medical treat-
ment, as I suffered greatl}'' from sciatica and from sleep-
less nights. Besides, fever set in again with obstinate
regularity.

But a few days before the Wawemba had attacked
villages only ten kilometres off the station ; they had
killed thirty men and carried off almost all the women
and children.

What o-ood can natives derive from stations that
demand enormous sums to convert them to Chris-
tianity, when they cannot even defend their lives,
their freedom, and their property? How is it
possible that savages who are daily, hourly anxious
about their lives and property can open their hearts
to the doctrines of Christianity? Would it not be a

DIFFEBENT CUSTOMS 275

mucli more useful work, with tlie means that are
spent on the missions, to found stations which, in the
first instance, would offer protection to the natives,
hunted like beasts of prey ? The Africans call all their
superiors ' father ' ; they would show themselves much
more docile to the teaching of the European if they
felt they were dependent on him for the means of pro-
tection. The missionaries here were alwaj^s ready to
escape by flight from a possible attack of the Wawemba ;
they had even been negotiating with the natives about
the direction of their flis^ht.

My opinion on this question was supported by the
Scotch missionaries, whose impartial judgment and
practical views made me rate them much higher than
many English missionaries with whom I had come in
contact.

I found Mr. Bain to be a very good observer. He
was kind enough to enlighten me from his treasure of
ethnological observations about various things which,
chiefly referring to the Wawemba, the Wakonde, and
the Wawiwa, I will mention here.

The Wakonde burn their corpses three days after
death, life having then without any doubt fled from the
body ; the ashes are collected into small jars and pre-
served by the family. These tribes often also dissect
their dead, especially if the reason for death is not quite
clear. They open the stomach with a piece of palm
bark, and examine its walls and contents.

The Wawemba bury their dead, but in the course
of three days they open the grave, take out the corpse,
and completely dissect it; they cut the flesh off the

T 2

270 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

bones, and after having anointed the latter with oil they
scatter them in the savannah.

A kind of ordeal, such as I have found to be exten-
sively practised in Inner Angola, is frequently used here
for settling disputes. If any offence is to be investigated,
all the persons in question are assembled in a circle. The
chief takes up a wooden instrument exactly resembling
the toy known among our children as a ' Soldaten-
schere.' Wliile repeating the nature of the offence, this
' Soldatenschere ' makes its apparently automatic move-
ments, then suddenly folding up hits the breast of the
offender.

In order to search for stolen objects they make use
of a board with a handle at each end. Two persons sus-
pected of theft are compelled to take hold of the handle
crosswise, and are led by the judge to the place where
the stolen article is supposed to be hid. The two, in a
bent attitude, are made to move the board close along
the ground or the wall of the hut. The evil conscience
of one of the two is noticed by the other in his move
ment when approaching the hidden object, and, in
order to be released from suspicion, the former calls
the judge's attention to this circumstance.

In accordance with the habit in West Africa, it is
customary among these tribes to settle a dispute between
two persons by drinking a poisonous draught. There is
a certain poisonous bark which, boiled in water and
millet beer, rarely causes death, but either instant vomit-
ing or violent swelling of the stomach and great pain.
The two persons in question have to drink of this beve-
rage, and the one who vomits is cleared of the suspicion.

THE FESTIVAL OF THE NEW FIBE 277

The succession to the dignity of chief does not pass
to the sons of the chief, but to his eldest sister's eldest
son. If this is not possible, a new chief is elected.
They assemble, and hold a grand banquet, at which
much millet beer is drunk, and discuss who is to be
elected. As soon as the greater number of the drinkers
are agreed, the whole assembly throw themselves on the
one selected, seize and bind him and take him into the
common hut, where he is released from his fetters and
proclaimed chief. If he shows himself at all timid at
the sudden and startling attack, or attempts to flee,
they agree upon some one else.

The greatest festival of the year, which here, as with
us, consists of twelve months, is the festival of the new
fire. Throughout the country the fires are extinguished
on the eve of the holiday and the ashes carried to a heap
outside the village. Then a great carousing commences,
and as soon as the moon has attained a certain height
the chief begins to make a new fire for the coming year.
Into a small square board of soft dry wood, which in
the centre has a little funnel-shaped opening, a span-
long peg of wood pointed at the end is inserted and
twirled round by the chief until the soft wood begins
to glow. The first spark is kindled by vigorous blow-
ing, and taken up with pieces of tinder by the wives
of the chiefs, who in their turn distribute them to the
women pressing around. This fire has to last for the
next twelve months.

Polygamy rarely occurs among the tribes I have
mentioned ; only rich people indulge in the luxury of a
harem, the number of women in which never exceeds

278 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

tliree. When a girl has developed into a woman, she is
put into a state of intoxication by strong drinks, painted
white and red, and laid before the parental hut, so as to
show the villagers and fellow-tribesmen that they may
now woo the beauty. A suitor first makes himself known
to the girl's mother, and in the evening now and again
throws small presents for her parents into their house.
If they are thrown out again, the suitor is dismissed ; if
accepted, he has to continue them until the father and
mother declare themselves satisfied and consent to the
wooer fetching their daughter. If the woman objects,
all the presents or their worth have to be returned ;
if she consents, she is, with the assistance of other
young villagers, taken by force from her parents' hut
at night, and, according to custom, she is brought,
screaming and struggling, into the hut of her lover, where
the whole village assembles, singing and drinking.

Thanks to the kind attention of Mr. Bain, I was
on the 30th so far recovered from my painful rheuma-
tism as to be able to continue my journey, though, it is
true, by means of a litter. Bugslag also suffered from
constant attacks of dysentery, and was so much weakened
that we were obliged to use the litter in turns. We
passed the Lowira or Lowiri, which falls into the JSTyassa,
and on the 31st encamped near the slope of the plateau
which precipitately descends into the lake at Mpata,
being part of the Wakondi country. This was the
first time that we had found the adansonia in the east
of the continent since leaving the Lower Cassai. Next
day we descended the steep edge of the plateau and
reached the bank of the Nyassa near the station of the

STEPHENSON'S BOAD 279

African Lakes Company, close to the village of the
chief Karanga.

For the last three days I had been marching on the
so-called Stephenson's Eoad, Only the fact that now
and again the higher trees had been cut in straight lines
showed that at some time an attempt had been made to
build a road. The narrow negroes' path wound through
underwood which had grown up to the height of a man.
Meanwhile, this attempt at a road, with the English
claims to the territory, would have rather amused a con-
noisseur. By this time not a trace will be left of the
' famous road ' in Inner Africa.

The difficulty in the way of an ultimate connection
between the two lakes by a railway will be the slopes of
the plateaus on the Nyassa and Tanganyika. Both are
steep and rocky, and that leading to the Tanganyika is
higher by far than the former, having as it has an abso-
lute altitude of 300 metres above that of the Nyassa,
whilst the evenly flat land between the two descends
very little eastward.

Two Scotchmen, officials of the commercial company
I have mentioned, welcomed us, and assigned to us and
our people a locality for encampment under the beauti-
ful shady trees, the greatest ornament of the station.
Besides being engaged in the sale of ivory, the two
gentlemen were busy as missionaries. They kept a
small school, where about twenty children were taught,
and now and then they held a prayer meeting, attended,
although scantily, by the Wakonde of the immediate
neig-hbourhood.

I was delighted to learn that in a very short time

280 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

the little steamer of the company, the ' Ilala,' was ex-
pected here, and that I was at liberty, with my few West
Africans, to continue my journey in it.

I paid off my carriers, but deducted a small part of
their wages, since I had found out that they had been
aware of the flight of their country peoj)le, which had at
the time so much embarrassed me.

After several days' fruitless waiting for the Arab
who had promised to bring my fifteen loads to Karonga,
I learned that he had gone to an Arab settled south of
this place, who was here called Mirambo. There he
again made an attempt at extortion by retaining my
loads until his demands should be satisfied. In order
that I might not have to detain the steamer, which might
arrive at any moment, I granted his request, and duly
received my loads, which I was astonished not to find
more diminished.

There was a strange phenomenon here, in the shape
of dark, sometimes almost black, clouds which floated
close above the lake. They turned out to be swarms of
millions of small flies, here called cungu ; several times
these swarms were mistaken for the approaching ' Ilala.'
As soon as these flies have settled on land, tired with
their flight, the natives collect them, and, after being
kneaded into a paste and baked like cakes, they form a
favourite dish.

Noting down the route of my journey from the Tan-
ganyika to this place, I came to the conclusion that
the ISTyassa and the Tanganyika are drawn on the maps
too closely together. Since my instruments of observa-
tion had become useless, I was unable to take measure-

WAKONDE 281

ments of longitude; thus, my conjectures only rest on
careful calculations of the distances I had travelled. I
believe the fault is in the Nyassa being placed too far
to the west ; for the situation of the Tanganyika, through
repeated observations on the spot, seems to be more to
be depended on than that of the Nyassa.

The natives of Konde may be ranked among the Zulu
tribes ; their language and their manners and customs
suggest this. Of all the natives I ever met, these
are the least clothed ; a small rag, or even a bunch of
leaves, is suspended from their belts in front ; now and
then I saw quite naked men coming to Karonga from
villages lying south-west. The weapons of the Wakonde
are a light, prettily worked javelin and a shield made of
the skin of the elk antelope. The houses, constructed
of bent rods and carefully covered with very soft grass,
have a firm, raised floor. They are almost painfully
clean. The houses on each side of the road, belted
by close banana plantations, form large villages. The
principal food is millet and maize, rarely manioc.
Bananas and sugar are much cultivated. Nowhere so
much as in this neighbourhood did I see the natives side
with the Europeans against the Arabs, who were hated
everywhere. It was owing to this circumstance that,
scarcely a year after my leaving, Karonga station was
able to hold out ao-ainst the attacks of the Arabs.

OUK PAETY

CHAPTEE X

TO THE COAST

The Nyassa — The banks abound m game— The Arabs on the lake —
Livmgstonia — Shire— Mandala and Blantyre — I am ill — The negroes'
deficiency in skill — The journey on the Shire resumed — Crocodiles
and hippopotami — Struggle with a huge heron — Bugslag's true com-
panionship— Portuguese outpost — The Zambesi — Mrs. Livingstone's
grave — On the Quaqua — Quilimane — Conclusion.

On July lltli the 'Ilala' arrived. Two days later I
went on board with. Bugslag and my faithful attendants
from the West Coast and left Karans^a.

The Nyassa, in its shape and situation and mete-
orological aspects, greatly resembles the Tanganyika.
Here, as there, a strong south-easterly breeze blows

THE NY ASS A 283

continually during the dry season, causing a very rough
sea ; here, as there, the calm is frequently interrupted
by thunder-storms, which, however, are said not to be
accompanied by such gales as are met with on the Tan-
ganyika. During the rainy season waterspouts are fre-
quent. Far more rain falls in the peninsulas or promon-
tories projecting into the lake than farther inland. On
the whole, more rain falls on the lake than on the coast.
The Nyassa, as ascertained by twelve years' observa-
tions of the missionaries, falls 0*9 English foot annually.
A periodical rising and falling, as on the Tanganyika,
has not, however, been observed. Navigation on this lake
is difficult, as the sands reach out to a distance of five
English miles from the shore while reefs threaten the navi-
gator for sometimes two English miles off the coast.
Huge rocks tower here and there from the sandy
shallows, or form a striking contrast to the light-
coloured sand beneath the clear water. Contrary to the
frequently brackish water of the Tanganyika, that of the
Nyassa is clear and sweet, which accounts for the
entirely different fauna of the lake. That of the Tan-
ganyika more nearly resembles that of the sea, while the
Nyassa is the abode of animals which are observed in
every fresh-water lake. The beach of the Tanganyika
is covered with many kinds of shells ; gulls and sea
swallows sport on the banks, while fresh-water birds are
only found on the mouths of the rivers. The banks of
the Nyassa are destitute of shells ; there are no sea-
nettles, as on the other lake ; and cormorants everywhere
perch on the bare trees at the waterside — trees that have
died as a result of the noxious excrement of these

284 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

birds. Where the banks of the Nyassa are unmhabited,
they display abundance of game. Buffaloes, wild ante-
lopes, and giraffes are frequent ; and from the mainland
the sound of the lion's roar, an animal that can live
only where there is plent}' of game, induced us to un-
dertake frequent hunting expeditions in places where
we dropped anchor for cutting wood.

Bugslag once shot an antelope near the bank, and
came to the beach to call some people to carry the
game to the boat. On returning he found only scanty
remains of the animal, which had been torn to pieces ;
with difficulty he succeeded in driving away some
impudent vultures. Traces showed that during his
absence some hyenas had possessed themselves of the
prey. In similar cases I have spread my handkerchief
or part of my clothes on the game, and so caused the
beasts of prey to be scared away by scenting the
nearness of man.

One evening our men, who had been fetching fire-
wood to the beach, were sitting round the fire they had
made, when suddenly a buffalo broke from a thicket
and hurried past them. Immediately behind him two
lions jumped out, but, frightened by the fire and the
presence of men, they abstained from pursuing the
buffalo any farther, and after a short pause retreated
into the thicket.

At one point of the lake, where lagoons, intersected
by jungles and thickets of reeds, stretched for miles
landwards, we dropped anchor one evening, but could
scarcely get any sleep on account of the incessant
roaring and tramping of hundreds of hippopotami which

WILDERNESS 285

in the evenino- excliano-e tlie lagoons for the banks of

O O O

the lake.

Next day I landed with Bugslag and entered upon
a wilderness, than which a better cannot be imagined
for the home of the huoe behemoth. Lasfoons, creeks,
and dried-up watercourses furrowed in inextricable
lines an either muddy or sandy flat, covered with
jungle-like reeds or marshy plants. Only the splashing
of a frightened hippojDotamus, or a short, far-sounding
bellow, interrupted the deep calm of this pathless wil-
derness, where only the narrow tunnel-shaped dwellings
of the huge pachydermata, running through the jungles,
could be traced. Once, when knee-deep in the water
in a bent attitude, proceeding under the jungles which
closed immediately above our heads, we suddenly met
a gigantic hippopotamus. For a moment the animal
stopped short, and afterwards, to our great satisfaction,
broke away in a side direction. After this startling
encounter we preferred giving up the exploration of
this wilderness.

In the south the lake scenery is beautiful. High
hills advance there close to the bank, tongues of land
form harbours, and many islands or high reefs of rocks
break the monotony of the flat banks. The traffic on
the lake is not so lively as on the Tanganyika.

On the west coast of the Nyassa are two large
settlements of slave-traders, Arabs and people of Kilwa
and Lindi. These Arabs transact their chief business
with the murderous Wawemba. They supply the latter
with guns, powder, cloth, and beads, in exchano-e for
slaves. Ivory is, in proportion, rarely brought here, for

286 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

in tliese latitudes — I may say from the eighth, degree
south latitude southward — the gun is found throughout
the continent, and this has immensely decreased the
number of elephants. Only in large pathless deserts is
the elephant still found as stationary game.

Bugslag, in cutting wood for the steamer, came
upon a large settlement of slave-catchers, those nefa-
rious vagabonds who depopulate Africa ; the same
miserable robbers of human flesh and blood, with the
same insolence and barbarism usual with men of such
an occupation as in the northern centres of the slave-
trade. Nay, he was thankful to find himself on board
again unscathed, for he had been jeered at and
threatened. Among the local slave-hunters, as well
as in the north, there seemed to have been a rising
which threatened to lead to a catastrophe.

Here I wrote in my journal : ' I believe the safety of
the missionaries and European traders will not be of long
duration ; I cannot imagine how Europeans in such a
barbarous country can think of building settlements
without fortifying them. It is simply absurd that some
English missionaries in building stations give orders to
avoid everything that suggests a fortification. This
does not make any impression on a native ; on the
contrary, in this way a white man makes himself unin-
telliofible and ridiculous to him. He cannot conceive
why a white man should not look after his own safety ;
nay, he would only rejoice if a settlement of people
who only mean to do him good should become to him
a place of refuge and protect him from the merciless
man-hunters.'

LIVINGSTONIA 287

Those slave-liuiiters who touch the lake southwards
mostly take their goods to Mikindani ; those who go
across in sailing dhows go to Lindi ; while those who go
round the Northern Nyassa choose the way to Kilwa.

Besides the station of the Scotch Commercial Com-
pany, there are two missionary stations on the lake ;
of these, Bandawe, where I was kindly received by Dr.
Lars, was by far the best. A number of good buildings
are here well arranged in the midst of gardens and
plantations.

In visiting the schools I counted 130 children, dis-
tributed in three classes. Our old ' Ilala ' at best not
going above four knots an hour, and being often even
compelled to seek shelter off the land on account of the
stiff breeze and rough sea — the commander of the
vessel, moreover, being by no means practical, so that,
if it had been possible, I should have preferred taking
the command myself — we did not reach the south of
the lake till the 25tli ; we had thus taken fifteen days
to go about sixty-five German miles.

In a harbour much sheltered by islands, we
dropped anchor off the missionary station Living-
stonia. This rather neglected station was inhabited by
only one black schoolmaster. The climate is so fatal
that the missionary societies have abandoned the idea
of sending white men or Europeans to this place. A
very large number of graves bore witness to the un-
healthy nature of this locality, which in its outer dress
has been so much favoured by Nature. From the ever-
smooth deep-blue narrow harbour the mainland soon
rises to an imposing height, only leaving a short strip of

288 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

level land on the banks. Fan-palms and liuge adan-
sonias surround the banks, and numerous villages peep
out of the thickets of bananas. The southern part of
the lake is rich in fish, and in the evening the great
number of fishing canoes, lighted up with fires, presented
a splendid picture.

On the 26th we entered the affluent of the Nyassa,
the Shire. This river varies in breadth from eighty to
one hundred metres, and has at its commencement level
banks, here and there showing thickets of reeds and
papyrus. The coasts are densel}^ populated, and when
busy crossing an apparently much-frequented ferry we
met a slave caravan with Arabs. This is the most
southern point visited by Arabs ; farther south and south-
west the tribes are too numerous and strongly armed to
make slave-hunting profitable. After some little time the
Shire falls into a lake of about two German miles in
length. This is the Pamolondo, which has particularly
clear water and such an equal depth that we measured
everywhere almost exactly ten feet. This little lake
greatly abounds in fish, and never have I seen peli-
cans in such numbers as here. In the same latitude
as before the Shire flows out of the small lake. The
banks of the river change, are less populated, and conse-
quently abound in game, as does the river itself, which
swarms with hippopotami and crocodiles. We often
saw large droves of zebras, and at night frequently heard
the mighty thundering voice of the lord of the desert.

On the 28th we reached Mutope, a small station of
the Commercial Company, and with it for the present
the end of our journey ; for some way farther down

MANDALA 289

rapids and small falls interrupt the navigation of the
river. From Mutope I sent a short note to the chief
factory of the said Company to announce my coming,
and started on the 29th,

Choosing a broad road with traces of wheels, I rode
in advance of my troop on a horse sent to meet me, and
in the afternoon reached Blantyre, the large Scotch
missionary station, and afterwards Mandala, the station
of the African Lakes Company. The broad roads, the
avenues of beautiful lofty trees, mostly eucalyptus, the
numerous houses, neatly built in European fashion of
bricks, with glass windows, and surrounded by pretty
gardens, fields of European corn, and similar signs of
civilisation, surprising to one coming from the wilderness,
awakened within me the same comfortable feeling as if
I had been in Europe.

These two settlements are the best and most highly
developed I have seen in Inner Africa. A large number
of merchants, missionaries, schoolmasters, tradespeople,
and five ladies, all Scotch by birth, formed a colony
imposing for these parts, and their looks proved the
climate to be comparatively healthy. Both stations may
be considered prominent test stations for this part of the
tropics, for I could scarcely say what has been un-
attempted in the way of garden and field culture,
plantations and cattle breeding. At the missionary
station, corn, vegetables, and flowers were cultivated,
and cattle bred, solely for the maintenance of the
black and white population ; but they had at Mandala,
after several attempts, fallen back chiefly upon cofiee
plantations, and had even brought over the necessary

290 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

apparatus for husking and cleaning the coffee. It
would lead me too far were I to enlarge upon the
results of the different experiments. But not to give the
reader a wrong idea of the results of such undertakings,
I must not omit to mention that large sums of money,
probably mostly arising from pious legacies, were in-
vested here without the necessity of obtaining corre-
sponding interest. An undertaking meant to pay cannot
from the beginning be furnished with such comfort, I
might say luxury, as these two stations, one of which,
the missionary station, was founded and is maintained
by donations, which, practically speaking, a fond perdu,
have only been given for converting the heathen to
Christianity. The African Lakes Company is likewise
partly a commercial, partly a missionary association, and
in like manner chiefly subsists upon donations.

I lay ill at Mandala for more than a week : my
rheumatism had returned, and I suffered from a tedious
nervous asthma complicated with attacks of fever.
Thanks to the excellent treatment of the doctor at the
missionary station and the nursing at Mandala, I
recovered so far as. to think of resuming my journey,
and resolved to wait for the steamer that was expected
from the Zambesi. But as day after day passed without
its coming I abandoned this idea, and it suited me all
the better, as it seemed that the expenses on the boat
would be too great for my small caravan. On learning
that a Scotch merchant had come up the river in a large
rowing boat in order to go farther into the interior on
trading business, I despatched Bugslag to the river, and

I LEAVE M AND ALA 291

succeeded in obtaining the boat on condition of leaving
it on the coast at Quihmane.

On July 22 I started from Mandala, intending to
reach the Shire below the falls near Kattunga and con-
tinue my journey by water. Bugslag had marched on
with my West Africans, and I followed in a ' jinricksha '
(a Japanese conveyance), which was drawn and pushed
by two men at either end. We passed through a sa-
vannah of trees, here and there relieved by close belts
of bamboo, in a rapid down-hill drive towards the river.
The negroes found the simple construction of the light
vehicle so complicated that they displayed an astonishing
lack of skill. It seems almost incredible that they should
not have understood so simple a means of conveyance ;
and yet the fact is so. They always placed themselves
in the wrong place, and drew and pushed against each
other ; at a crossing they would tear off the road into
the deep grass or into the thicket ; several times they
even overturned me ; in short, they tormented me with
their clumsiness to such a degree that for the most part
I preferred walking, although, on account of my rheu-
matism, this was rendered very painful. On arriving
at the Shire I found the large strong boat that had
been lent to me ; this saved me about 70Z., which the
coastward journey in a vessel of the Scotch Company
would have cost me.

I resumed my downward journey on the Shire on
the 25th, shortly after the arrival of the expected
steamer, which, however, was in such bad repair that
for the present my start could not be thought of.
Bugslag and I managed the wheel in turns. My eight

■u 2

292 THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

West Africans, Fickerini, tlie Zanzibaris, a native
brought as a guide, three wives of my people, and my
two little valets, composed the expedition ; not to omit
the two dogs, one of which was the last of the terriers
I took from West Africa into the interior five years ago.
Jettchen was the first European animal that had crossed
the equatorial latitudes of the African continent. She
reached her native country safe and sound, and lived
two years longer in Germany.

The first two or three German miles of the river can
hardly be called navigable on account of the islands,
sands, and narrow channels. The river, which now and
then assumes the shape of lagoons, has deep banks, with
plain grass savannah relieved by groves of borassus
palms. The banks are in some places literally covered
with crocodiles, of which Bugslag and I shot a large
number. The muscular power of such a reptile is
remarkable. The animal, after being hit, would jump
up repeatedly more than a metre high, then he would
throw himself on his back and lie dead on the spot ;
others, not mortally wounded, would plunge into the
river with extraordinarily vigorous leaps. Being near
the coast and so not obliged to save our cartridges, we
practised firing at crocodiles throughout the journey.
In some places we came upon such numbers of hippo-
potami that now and then they endangered the safety
of the boat. What sounded like the distant rolling of
thunder once made us start up in wonder, it being the
dry season and the sky being serene ; but a violent
vibration of the l^oat afterwards, and the rising of air-
bubbles alongside, convinced us that it had been caused

BUGSLAG 293

by the snorting of a hippopotamus, which strangely
resembles the noise of distant thunder.

Having provided ourselves at Mandala with Euro-
pean potatoes, bread, onions, and vegetables, we lived
very well ; this l^eing the case, the constantly changing
scenery and the abundant animal life, continually pre-
senting new and interesting pictures, made the journey
a very amusing and enjoyable one. A traveller who
for years has had to put up with African food cannot
be offered a greater dainty than bread and European
potatoes. I quite believe that any African traveller
would leave a breakfast of oysters and champagne
untouched if he had his choice between it and a dish
of potatoes and bread. Good food and pleasant inter-
course soon effected the strengthening of my weakened
system. No one could have nursed me with oreater
solicitude than my faithful Bugslag. When, about five
in the evening, I halted at a place suitable for encamp-
ment, my tent was pitched and arranged within ten
minutes, and a simple supper, such as Bugslag well knew
how to vary every day, was soon preparing. Since leaving
Nyangwe, travelling with my small caravan, there had
been no need for me to look after our suite. Bugslag
was everywhere, and by his wonderful knack of
managing the negroes he saved me many of the little
vexations that the life of an African traveller is subject
to. I could not have wished for a better travelling
companion, a more dauntless and devoted comi^ade
than he proved ; and, though only a simple sailor, he
showed a rare tact.

A very comical sight, which incited our black

294

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

followers to roars of laughter, was a gigantic heron
pv standing in the shallow water, shot through
llll his wing. The bird had attacked with his
^ beak one of my men who went

^^ , to fetch him, pushed the man

on in front until he fell down
in the water, and belaboured
him, till a shot from Bugslag's
gun wounded the heron's
wing, and put an end to this
unequal struggle.

On the 27th we passed

STKUCxGLE WITH A GIGANTIC HEKON

GAME 295

a vast level and monotonous wilderness, where now and
then fan-palms towered above the high grass and low
brushwood. Elephants are still plentiful in this wilder-
ness, as we learned from their many tracks leading into
the water ; but though we had been told at Mandala
that we should frequently encounter large herds of
them, we scarcely caught sight of one. There were,
however, large flocks of anteloj^es, more numerous than
I had ever before seen them. Out of a flock of at least
150, Bugslag shot a large ram, which supplied us with
meat for three days.

On the 28th I halted at a point from which I could
see the Portuguese flag at a village fortified w4th pali-
sades ; this convinced me of its being a military station
of the Portuguese Government. Lieutenant Cardoso,
the commander of this post, received me kindly. His
troop consisted of one man, his servant, called No. 23 ;
for the Portuguese Government arrange their soldiers
by numbers, not by names in the rolls. The officer
was rather a political agent than the commander of a
military post. He assembled the chiefs of his district
once a week to transact Government business, and a
number of glass bottles filled with aguardente ensured
the punctual voluntary appearance of his subordinates.

On embarking, No. 23 brought us as a parting
present a cask of Portuguese wine, and then we went
down the river, which now made frequent sudden turns.
Next day we passed, on the right, some enormous
lagoons, stretching far into the land,- and supplied by a
branch of the Shire, A shot at a crocodile had an
extraordinary effect. Clouds of birds, which enlivened the

296

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

sloughs and lagoons,
rose with a deafening
noise. Ducks, geese,
pelicans, herons,
storks, rails, snipe,
and innumerable
other species in
many thousands sud-
denly disturljed the
still life of the water-
waste.

On the 31st the
oarsmen pulled us
from the waters of
the Shire into the
broad, imposing Father Zambesi. The Shire, by
reason of its uniform depth in its chief arm, was
far more navigable than the Zambesi in its lower
course, which, in consequence of its breadth, winds

' OUT OF THE WATER CEEPT A LAI^GE
CROCODILE '

FORT ALES A CHUPANGA 297

along in innumerable channels, mostly shallow, through
a labyrinth of sandbanks and islands mantled with
grass or mangroves. We ran aground oftener than in
the Shire, and had frequently to drag or push the boat
through the water for a long distance. In the after-
noon of the next day we were induced by the numerous
traces of game, among which were several prints of
lions' claws leading to the water, to pitch our camp and
go on an evening hunt, though, in spite of the rich
abundance of game, we did not succeed in bagging any-
thing. After dark, when we were sitting smoking near
a fire, we noticed a crocodile, with incredible insolence,
crawling slowly out of the water and approaching us
to within a few metres distance ; but before we could
seize our rifles it had disappeared in the flood, hit with
a firebrand by one of our people.

In the afternoon of August 2 I paid a visit to a
Portuguese fortress, the Fortalesa Chupanga, built of
stone close to the river, where Alferez Machado Leal
kindly greeted and entertained me as a German. I say
as a German, since the proceedings of the English on
the (Shire were regarded with distrust on the part of
Portugal. Even then I foresaw what has occurred since,
that here the Portuguese would have to give way to the
advance of England.

Close to the fortress was the grave of Livingstone's
wife, who had here succumbed to the fever — a simple
cross, which, strangely enough, had received a singular
ornament. Some twelve months before, a huge adan-
sonia, felled by the storm, had fallen across the grave
in such a manner that by means of a strong branch

2'J8 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

and the curve of the stem it formed an arch above the
grave without touching the cross.

In the evening of the same day we arrived at the
station of the Scotch Company, and thus terminated
our navigation of the Zambesi ; for to get to Quihmane
you have to go across country for one kilometre as far
as the Quaqua, and follow it down to the seaboard. The
Quaqua is connected with the Zambesi close to the
mouth of the Shire.

On August 4 we put our boat on a strong cart pre-
pared for this purpose, and, through an absolute plain
between the Zambesi and the Quaqua, we drew it over
to the latter. The Quaqua, which often narrows itself to
twenty-five metres, next day carried our boat farther
downward.

I shot a crocodile close to the village, the natives of
which asked me for it, for the flesh of this disgusting
animal is to them a special luxury. On Bugslag's hunt-
ing list this was the seventy-fifth crocodile since our
navigation of the Nyassa. The crocodiles are greatly
feared in the Quaqua. I was told that they would try
with their tails to push the occupants of a canoe into
the water.

One day, on our journey down the Quaqua, we met
forty-seven trading canoes, carrying cloth, beads, iron
wire, powder, and guns, all bound for the interior. The
banks of the Quaqua, from the frequent appearance of
mangroves, assume an entirely new character. This
Indian fruit-tree, imported and cultivated by the Arabs
and Indians throughout the coast, has quite taken root
here, and affords splendid shade. Its dark leaves, of a

QUILUIANE

299

black-green colour, are, especially in tlie dry season, a
strong contrast to the general yellow tint of the land-
scape, caused by drought and a scorching sun.

We had always to stop when the tide was coming
in and to go on as it went out, till, on August 8, we
reached an expanse of water that gradually forms the
harbour of Quilimane. We noticed the masts of a barque
from a distance, at the topmast of which was displayed

HAEEOUU OF QUILIJIAXE

the German "flas^. Before landino- 1 ran alono-side of the

O DO

vessel, and was not a little surprised to find it to be a
ship whose christening I had attended at my garrison
at Eostock. The captain of the ship knew me per-
sonally, and we renewed our acquaintance with the
first glass of German beer I had had since I landed in
Africa.

In the town, which is distinguished from all the other
border towns of the Portuguese by its pretty gardens,

300 TH BOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Bugslag and I took lodgings at an hotel, and with the aid
of an Indian tailor we tried to somewhat conform our
outward appearance to the civilisation around us.

A few days after, a ship of the Castle Line conveyed
us to Mozambique. The Governor-General of the
Portuguese possessions in East Africa, Agosto de
Castilho, was kind enough to let me make use of a
Portuguese man-of-war, which was going from Mozam-
bique to Loanda, to convey my honest West Africans
back to Angola. I rewarded the faithful services of
my black followers, and then, with Bugslag, my two black
boys, who would not leave me, and my old flag-bearer
Fickerini, I took the next northward steamer, and
in the first place went to Zanzibar. There I found a
hospitable reception, just as I had five years before, at
the house of business of Mr. Oswald.

It was not till now that I learnt what meanwhile
had happened in East Africa : that Germany had here
opened a new field for Transatlantic activity. Dr.
Peters, just returning from a coastward tour, surprised
me by the narration of his work, his success, and his
prospects ; and, the report he gave setting at rest the
apprehensions I had brought with me from the coast,
I gave myself up entirely to joy at the successful results
of the German spirit of enterprise ; not dreaming that
I myself should have to act a part in the events which
I had foreseen to be necessary forerunners of any work
of civilisation in Africa ; not dreaming that I should so
soon be permitted to deal the first fatal blow against the
pestiferous dominion of the Arabs, which was laying
waste the African continent.

APPENDIX I

LETTER OF LE MARIN EL ON THE RETURN OF
THE BASHILANGE TO THEIR COUNTRY

(TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH)

Liiluaburg : May 10, 1887.

Monsieur Wissmann, — On leaving the Lualabayou told me
that our return march might be effected within two months •
your prediction has come true — nay, I have great satisfaction in
telling you that your caravan reached Luluaburg as early as
April 18.

The road we took in marching back differed constantly from
the one we marched together.

To put something like order into my nai'ration, I think I
had better dissect my journey into stages : (1) From Nyangwe
to the Lomami ; (2) from the Lomami to Lupungu ; (3) from
Lupungu to the Lubi ; and (4) from the Lubi to Lubuku.

(1) On leaving the Lualaba I reached the left bank of the
Lufubu, whose waters were about three metres lower than you
found them, in two days' march ; the Moadi, which I passed rather
below our former camp, was also nearly dry, presenting no
difficulties. Leaving Pogge's return road on the left, I went
from Goi Capopa in a straight line to Kabamba, where we had
left Kashawalla.

The Coango likewise being shallow, some morasses on this
march were the only obstacles.

That part of our caravan which you had left at Kabamba I
found in a deplorable state. Small-pos had demanded more

302 THROUGH EQUATOIilAL AFBICA

victims : about ten Basliilange liacl died, fifteen were seriously
ill. Josso and Makenge from Angola died among others, and
the chiefs Kajembe, Moina, and Ilunga Mputt. In spite of
seeing their countrymen, the people were greatly demoralised.

My first care was to isolate the small-pox patients and those
sickening for small-pox.

After two days of rest, or rather halt to buy provisions, I
started, and took measures always to prevent the caravan coming
into contact with the sick patients.

Owing to this precaution, carried out with restless energy, I
succeeded in lessening the deaths. Arrived at Lubuku, I there-
fore counted only sixty sick people, of whom not above thirty
died.

In spite of the strictest measures of M. de Macar, we had,
after all, to mourn for many dead, among them our dear old
friend Jingenge, brave Katende, and some Ginga soldiers.

Dr. Sommers assured me the epidemic would not spread
further. Let us hope that he may be right, for the poor people
have suffered enough on this unfortunate expedition. I will not
mention the number of victims ; it is enormous.

To return to our journey.

On leaving Kabamba I took the road between your route
and Cameron's, and crossed the Lomami at our old point, after
endless negotiations about the canoes I required.

(2) From the Lomami to Lupungu. — Keeping to the right
bank of the Lukassi, I found the district rather more populated
than we had done on passing through it, and behind Kalambai
I even came upon a number of little villages. Beyond the
Lukassi, near Milambo, the natives had begun to rebuild their
villages opposite to the place where was Said's camp.

At Kalambai we met the last hordes of Arabs, whose guide, a
certain Kassia, wanted to ally himself with me for a cou]) de main
against the people on the Lukassi. I of course frustrated his
design. Said's hordes had laid waste the fields throughout, so
that we could not buy anything.

I had intended to take Pogge's route, straight to the Sankurru,
not in order to see new countries, but only to push on my caravan

MONA KIALO 803

as quickly and as well as possible ; my plan was, however, altered
in many respects. The guides I had taken from Milambo fled from
Baqua Peshi ; besides, we were induced to abandon our plan by the
Bassonge and Kalebue, who predicted a ten days' march through
depopulated districts. So we took our former road to Lupungu.

(3) From Lupungu to the Lubi. — From Lubefu, where I en-
camped in the same place that you did, I took a south-westerly
direction, and reached within four days a group of four or six
villages of the Ku-Mapenge ; they formerly belonged to Zappu
Zapp, but have since his departure made themselves independent.
According to my calculation, Zappu Zapp must have left his
old domicile in 1884.

Thence, in a more northern direction, I reached Mona Kialo,
the son of Zappu Mutapos ; the latter, likewise dispossessed by
the advance of the Arabs, had settled near the Bambue, and
had since died of small-pox.

After his death, Mona Kialo made war on the Bambue, and
now, as their master, lives among them on the left bank of the
Kashimbi, a tributary of the Sankurru.

He must have lived there since 1886. He has about 400
guns, mostly flint-lock rifles. These countries south of your
and Pogge's route are mountainous ; from them rise the brooks
you passed. Being followed by about 400 Ku-Mapenge bound
for Zappu Zapp, I appeared nearly 1,200 strong at Mona
Kialo's. But my numbers did not seem to intimidate Mona
Kialo's insolent robbers. Just fancy that in broad daylight
three guns were stolen from the camp ! You may imagine my
wrath.

I sent for Mona Kialo, and threatened to cut off his head
unless he took care to surrender both the arms and the thieves
by sunset. He wanted to excuse himself by alleging the num-
bers of strangers about him ; but I interrupted him, and swore
that he should die unless he did as he was bidden.

I don't believe I should have been strong enough to master
him, but I was all the more persistent with my threats. Kasha-
walla was of course dumb with fear. ' You go too far,' he said ;
' your followers will take flight.'

304 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

In a few hours Mona Kialo appeared, bringing with him the
stolen guns ; the thieves, he said, had been killed and distributed
to be eaten.

' You lie,' I said ; ' I will see the thieves.'

' But they are dead ! '

' Well, then, show me their dead bodies.'

' They are cut to pieces ! '

' Let me see them.'

Of course I thought this was all a lie ; but fancy my terror
and loathing when some Bassonge actually came along with
pieces of human flesh, with cut-off" arms, legs, &c. Kashawalla
had disappeared. Our Bashilange and Angola people freely
gave vent to their disgust and horror.

I should have thought that the action of our people would
have frightened the natives, but I soon saw that they were all very
much excited, most of all Mona Kialo himself.

Towards midnight I was called by the interpreter, as the
natives, having arranged a grand banquet for eating human
flesh, had drawn all our people out of camp to witness it. I
held a 'Moiio,' thereby calling all the lookers-on from this
loathsome drama.

Here I felt quite powerless. What could I have done
here ? Had I taken the terrible prey from those savage brutes
by force, this might have become a signal for war, and by this
not only the success of the expedition would have been risked —
the natives had double our number of guns — but I should have
likewise been compelled to obtain food and guides, the provision-
ing of the caravan presenting the greatest difiiculty as it was.

I have been rather circumstantial, but, without wanting to
bore you with little casualties of the journey, I could not but
tell you about this loathsome spectacle.

I resumed my journey, and after two days' march arrived on
the Sankurru, which I crossed just above the Bubila (according
to Kiepert, Lubila). I reached Zappu Zapp, who since Dr.
Wolf's visit has changed his place of abode, which was formerly
on the right bank.

I found Zappu Zapp not nearly so powerful as I had con-

ZAPPU ZAPP 305

jectured; his reputation is greatly exaggerated by liis people
and his enemies. Though he may be called a formidable chief,
he is not to be compared to Lupungu, Mona Kakesa, and Moua
Kialo, He has subdued many people, but this was not difficult,
as they had none of them any firearms.

After a four days' march through a mountainous and densely
wooded country, I reached the Lubi.

(4) From the Lubi to Lubuku. — Oue day's march north of
the crossing on your first journey I passed over the Lubi. From
thence to the Lubudi I followed our old track, then I went
farther south and crossed the Lulua near Luluaburg.

I am anxious to hear about your further adventures since
our separation ; I hope that you reached the coast safely, and
that my letter found you well.

Accept, Monsieur Wissmann, the kindest regards and best
wishes from

Yours &c.,

P. Le Marinel.

306 THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

APPENDIX II

TEE BA8EILANGE COUNTRY

My sketch of the population in the Bashilange country, based
on my own experience and the reliable inquiries which, in con-
sequence of my long sojourn in those regions, I was able to
make, gives a truer picture of one part of Central Africa than
maps of a travelling route ever can.

The Bashilange (singular, Mushilange) or, as they are called
by the Western tribes, Tushilange (singular, Kashilange), are a
mixture of the Baluba who had invaded from the south-west,
and the Bashi-Lange, who had been established previously in
the district.

Bashi is a term for people, which, as is still the case west
of the Cassai with the Bashi-Lele, Bashi-Panga, &c., was also
customary with the Bashi-Lange, meaning the same as the term
which is now used by the Bakuba and the tribes as far as the
Lualaba : Baqua, Bena, or, probably shortened, only Ba (singular,
Muqua, Mona, Mu). Baqua means people, Bena, sons ; for
instance, Baqua-Kataua, i.e. people from Kataua ; Bena-Lulua,
Kasairi, Biamba, i.e. sons of the Lulua, the Kasairi, the Riaraba.

The invading Baluba subdued the Bashilange and mixed with
them ; hence the present Bashilange like to call themselves Baluba,
and are called so by people in the north, while the nations border-
ing on the east, south, and west, call them Ba, or Tushilange.^

I have decided upon the appellation ' Bashilange,' this
nation being a striking contrast to the pure Baluba on the

^ I am sorry that in my work Im Innern Afrxkas, the Bashilange
have always heen called Baluha. This is owing to the circumstance
that the work was prepared dm-ing my last journey by my followers, who
had come back prior to my return, and that its preparation had so far

BASHILANGE

307

eastern border — a contrast wliicli is scarcely met with among
Bantu negroes throughout the continent.

The present result of the mixture is such that this nation
has apparently no characteristic feature of the Baluba left, at
least as regards outward ap-
pearance. The language cer-
tainly is little altered, and
this circumstance, as well as
the generally well-preserved
tradition, gives evidence of
the said mixture ; the very
great differences of colour,
skin, and conformation, also
are in favour of the sometimes

larger
blood.

addition

A BASHILANGE CONCERT

advanced that a thorough alteration might laave delayed the pubUcation of
the book. There being, certainly, some justification for the appellation, I
did not alter it ; but this is the reason why, in these pages, I have called
these people by their right name.

308 THBOUGH EQUATOPdAL AFRICA

The Baluba being bony, muscular, thick-set, and broad-
shouldered people, the old Bashi-Lange must have been ex-
ceedingly narrow-chested, long-limbed, and less muscular, since
the present Bashilange far more resemble the frame of the latter
than of the Baluba. The excessive smoking of wild hemp (j-iamhci)
alone cannot have had this effect, as it is only twenty-five years
ago since its use became customary among them ; and among the
younger generation it is already beginning to decrease. And
this reminds me that hemp is smoked, though in small quantities,
throughout Africa as it is known to me, from the Atlantic to
the Indian Ocean. At Uniamwesi, it was in 1883 greatly on
the increase. I even know pure Arabs who are given to this bad
habit ; though I cannot but add, that the noxious results are much
exaggerated.

Other differences influencing the physical development, such
as meteorological conditions, food, occupation, care of the body,
&c., which might appear to be arguments against the supposed
mixture, are not worthy of notice.

The arms of the Bashilange also give evidence of their
mixed blood, as they make use of spear, club, bow, and knife.
The bow was the weapon of the old Bashi-Lange, and is so still,
north and west of this place ; the spear is the weapon of the
Baluba, who are up to this day seldom seen with a bow. On all
ray journeys I have never met a tribe armed with the javelin ;
that always goes with the shield and the bow, though this does
not prevent one's finding some spears among bow nations, and
vice versa. Between the Cassai and the Tanganyika Lake, in
Central Africa Proper, whither the gun has scarcely penetrated as
yet, there is a marked limit between the bow-Ubujiwe and the
spear-Manyema ; the spear-Baluba and the bow-Bassonge ; the
bow-Bassongo-Mino and the spear nations north of them on
the Cassai.

On my own map I marked four classes of Bashilange by
means of colours : the Bashilamboa, Bashilambembele, Bashi-
lakassanga, and Bena-Luntu.

The distinction between the three former will soon have dis-
appeared ; probably they were a mixture of tribes, formed during

BASHILAMBOA

309

the invasion of the Baluba, as new conquerors continued to
come from the east, dispossessing their predecessors. Even now
it is difficult to ascertain to wliich of the three a tribe belongs.
1. The Bashilamboa, the largest and most western portion,
who only nominally acknowledge Katende, whose ancestors of
Baluba blood once governed them as their head. Bashilamboa,

BASIIILAMUUA

i.e. Bashilange-imboa (imhoa, dog), because in war they bit like
dogs (allegorically), or because they ate dogs, which habit they
had retained from the old Bashi-Lange, while the Baluba
despise this food.

The pedigree of the Prince Katende reaches back to Mona

310 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

Kaujika. from whom his ancestors obtained the Dikonga dia
Difuma, an iron sceptre, of which only one specimen is said
to be extant among the Baluba. (The Dikonga, which was
surrendered to me after a war with Katende, when I took him
prisoner, is, with its far-back pedigree, in the Berlin Museum.)
Katende is now powerless, and the mixture of the Bashilamboa
is thus only of historical interest. As is the case everywhere,
the appearance of firearms has changed everything here.

2. The Bashilambembele, i.e. Bashilange-bembele Qjembele,
mosquito), either because they stung like mosquitoes or because
they were as numerous as mosquitoes. They drove the Bashi-
lamboa westward. The famih" of their former chief is no longer
to be ascertained.

3. The Bashilakassanga. Kassanga-sanga, small white ants,
which build their hard black cells, resembling dross of iron, in
the ground. They burn some of those cells with the insects in
them in the houses, so as to drive away the mosquitoes by the
smoke ; thus the Bashilakassanga drove the Bashilambembele
farther to the north-west.

4. The Bena-Luntu, distinct from either of the three former,
who from their appearance have most Baluba blood, are jJerhaps
even cannibals, which the others are not. The Bena-Luntu
are rarely found to be tattooed, but all the more frequently they
paint like the pure Baluba, though they do it much better, and
with magnificent colours (black, white, red) ; and, besides, they
are much more barbarous.

The three first classes had either retained or adopted the
artistic and tasteful tattooings of the old Bashi-Lange.

In the patterns of the tattooing three distinct motives are
easily distinguishable among different ages, which proves that
in course of time the fashion has altered. At present — that is,
for the last ten years — tattooing has gone out of fashion.

Each of these four tribal associations is subdivided into tribes ;
these again into communities ; the latter into families, each of
which sometimes owns several villages. This division, of course,
is not one regulated by any authorities, but has in course of time
taken its rise from separation in consequence of war, local over-

TRIBES

311

population, hostilities,
&c. Very often I could
no longer ascertain
which were the tribes,
and which communities
or families belonged to
them; names which are
used in connection with
many Baqua or Bena,
such as Baqua Katana
or Bena Meta, or those
occurring in different
places, as the Baqua-
Mulume, may be considered to be names of tribes.

The same names are often found in places far apart, such as
the Baqua Mbuju, in the north-east and west. This only proves
that members of villages or communities were and are easily
induced to leave their abodes to settle down in another neighbour-
hood. The reasons are, sickness (small-pox), war, oppression by

312 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

a more powerful neighbour, accidents through lightning (which,
contrary to universal belief, are very frequent). The Bashilange
never settle among other nations, as is the case with the Kioque,
who always press northward.

I have registered 147 names, mostly indicative of tribes,
of which fifty-eight fall to the Bashilamboa, fifty-three to the
Bashilambembele, twenty-one to the Bashilakassanga, and fifteen
to the Bena-Luntu. Several are sure to be missing, chiefly
among the Bashilamboa, though this does not signify, since, for
the reasons I have mentioned, I am not able to give an exact
political map, but only a general picture of the population in
this country.

The Bashilange were a warlike people ; one tribe with an-
other, one village with another, alwaj's lived at daggers drawn.
The number of scars which some ancient men display among
their tattooings give evidence of this.

Then, about twenty-five years ago, nominally originated by
Moamba Mputt, a hemp-smoking worship began to be established,
and the narcotic effect of smoking masses of hemp made itself
felt The Bena-Riamba, ' Sons of Hemp,' found more and more
followers ; they began to have intercourse with each other as they
became less barbarous and made laws.

The old people, who had grown up in constant hostility, would
not hear of any novelties, and when the adherents of the new wor-
ship grew more and more numerous, they retreated to remote dis-
tricts. These conservatives were called Chipnlumba ; they were
finally pursued by the Sons of Hemp, and many of them killed.

The Bena-Luntu have not as yet adopted the worship of
hemp, and are still thorough savages. On the main road between
the Cassai and the Luebo one does not notice a higher degree
of cultivation among the Bena-Kiamba ; but, on the contrary, they
are insolent, thievish people, though this may be ascribed to the
influence of the incessantly passing commercial caravans.

Formerly the country owned a large store of ivory and gum,
whose value was then unknown. The Kioque, an itinerant and
enterprising nation of commerce and the chase, had repeatedly
made futile attempts to make inroads ; they first appeared under

TYPES OF THE BASHILANGE

KIOQUE 313

the leadership of Mona Mukanjanga, and, under the influence
of hemp-smoking, they cunningly profited by the products of the
country.

The first guns were imported. Each man who was fortunate
enough to obtain such a weapon, ' chingomma ' (^ugomma is the
big kettle-drum), in exchange for an elephant's tusk, was a
Mukelenge, i.e. a chief, or at any rate a great man.

The Kioque managed to induce Kassongo, the prince of the
Baqua-Kashia, and his brother Mukenge, the present Kalamba-
Mukenge, as well as Jingenge and Kabassu-Babu from Jirimba,
to follow them into their country, called Jilunga (Kaliinga,
' great mind '). They returned with guns and many Kioque, and
Kassongo was universally acknowledged as the head of all hemp-
smokers ; when he died, on his second expedition to the Kioques,
he was succeeded by Mukenge. Now commenced a pilgrimage
of chiefs to the Kioque. They all wished to let themselves be
well cheated by them, to buy gvins, and to obtain their proper
chieftain's commission, mostly by adoj)ting a Kioque name.

Kabassa-Babu had not yet returned from his second journey ;
Jingenge, however, had, and had brought with him many guns,
mostly obtained by extortion. He now renounced Mukenge
and became independent, others soon following suit.

The Kioque Mukanjanga was the patron of the new chiefs,
and, making a base use of his position, he always enriched himself.

The Bangala, a mixture of Tupende and Kalunda, who had
lately released themselves from Portuguese sovereignty, followed
the Kioque hither, but only pursued commercial interests. In
consequence, great jealousy arose between them and the Kioque,
which at first was kept in bounds by the latter, who had to pass
through Kassange, the Bangala country, when going with their
goods to the sea-board. Soon, however, hostilities broke out
among them, and the hatred continued.

The first Portuguese negro at Lubuku (i.e. ' friendship,' as
they had called the country of the hemp-smokers) was my pre-
sent interpreter Kashawalla. He came in 1874, pretended to be
a son of the king of the white men, and gave accounts of the latter.

In 1881 Pogge and I arrived, led by Kashawalla. Pogge

314 THROUGH EQUATOBIAL AFIUCA

was received as Mushangi, i.e. spirit of Kassongo, who had died
at Kioque, and I was regarded as that of Kabassu-Babn, which
name I have retained to this day.

Gradually the influence of the Kioque disappeared, and ours
became paramount. Mukenge followed us as far as Nyangwe.
The old Bakelenge — i.e. chief- — had had to make room for the
hemp-smokers, the latter again for those who had got their
licence from the Kioques. Now, after Mukenge had once more
accompanied me to explore the Cassai, the acknowledgment of
the white man is a sign of being truly entitled to the dignity
of chief, and Kalamba-Mukenge, with my support, as well as on
account of his gTeat merits, is again raised to be the most
powerful prince of the Bashilange. It is to be hoped that this
just and comparatively trustworthy negro will long work in
this capacity for the benefit of civilisation.

The Bashilange country is more populous in the east than
in the west ; on an average, I found twenty-six inhabitants to
one square kilometre. Thus the sum of the population of the
Bashilange is 1,400,000, of whom 560,000 are Bashilamboa,
420,000 Bashilambembele, 280,000 Bashilakassanga, 140,000
Bena-Luntu. While the people formerly used to live in small
villages and farms, they now, especially in the Biamba district,
live in batches of 1,000 or 1,200 ; but to this those living in the
west and the barbarous Bena-Luntu are an exception.

The country slopes evenly towards the north-west from a
height of 880 metres down to 35 metres, and is richly watered.
The layer of humus is thicker in the valleys than on the slopes ;
and on the ridge of the plateau stretching between two water-
courses there is found red and sometimes yellow laterite. To-
wards the north this laterite is spread on horizontally piled soft
red sandstone, whose colour is probably caused by the iron which
is in it. The northern boundary of the layer of laterite is marked
by a range of hills which is especially prominent in the east.
The sandstone is laid on Plutonic rocks, granite, and gneiss,
which are found on the bottom of many a deep, flowing brook.

Beyond the limit I mentioned, which is wanting in sand-
stone, the laterite is piled close to the granite or gneiss, as the

TROPICAL PLANTS 315

case may be ; the strata of laterite are on the average from 60 to
70 metres thick, which we have proved by repeatedly measuring
the slopes near the sources, where they resemble a perpendicu-
larly sloping dark red amphitheatre, ornamented with many
crags and pillars.

The northern limit of the sandstone is at a height of between
600 and 700 metres; that of the projecting Plutonic rocks at
nearly 500 metres, which naturally forms the line connecting
the extreme points of the navigation of the rivers. This line
nearly meets the southern limit of the big primaeval forests ; and,
as elephants and buffaloes have retreated into these forests, and
the adjoining tribes have no firearms, it has also become a zoo-
logical boundary.

If in the Bashilange country all the valleys and ravines of
the water-courses could be filled up, it would present one vast
plain sloping towards the north-west. The formation of the
terrain is exclusively owing to the water ; all the peninsulas are
thickly wooded, and display a variety of boundary woods, savan-
nahs of grass or trees, &c. The country being so richly watered,
a tenth part of the surface at least is covered with primaeval
forests. From a bird's-ej^e view, the country would resemble
richly-veined marble.

Most tropical plants flourish, chiefly wild, such as sugar, rice,
cotton, gum, and palms ; so does coSee, which was frequently
brought from the forests on the boundaries. Among the still
unknown wealth of the flora, I only make mention of some trees
which bear excellent oil fruits and dye-wood. The forests
abound in timber and trees of splendid colours and perfume.

The Bashilange grow all the African produce of a field that
I know of, and since our journey to Nyangwe they also grow rice.
Tobacco, if well cultivated, will flourish. Besides pine-apples,
bananas, and plantains, the melon tree, pease tree, the fruits of
the passion flower, and the lemon tree have been imported and
successfully cultivated, as also have onions and tomatoes.
Lettuce, radishes, cari-ots, and kohlrabi will grow excellently,
and many other vegetables would be sure to thrive if the seeds
were frequently renewed.

316 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

All the water-courses flow on white sandy ground, carrying
along thin scales of mica. The water is mostly good and cool, on
account of constant shade ; the rivers are not particularly well
stocked with fish, probably owing to their sandy and, in the
north, stony beds.

Of huntable game I only mention the Tragelaphus SGriptus
and the Red River pig ; elephants and buffaloes have moved to
the north ; the beasts of prey are represented by leopards,
lynxes, and many species of wild cats. The striped wolf and
the jackal are rare, while the lion and hyaena are almost
entirely absent. The primaeval forests house but few monkeys,
but abound in many specimens of Rodentia, which play a chief
part in the menu of the Mushilange.

The rivers are still alive with hippopotami and crocodiles,
which, contrary to the often-told fable, live peacefully together.
The former are slowly, but surely, going to destruction, for the
huge pachydermata must at last succumb to the number of
iron shots with which they are pursued by those of their neigh-
bours who are in possession of guns. In the third part of a
hippopotamus which I once shot in the Lulaa were eight iron
balls. The remaining two-thirds were at night dragged into
the deep by crocodiles.

The part of Africa known to me does not abound in birds.
The extensive fields of millet and maize are often frequented
by pigeons, guinea and savannah fowls ; for water birds and
waders there is no suitable abode here, as all the water-courses
run far inland. The grey parrot, the carythaix, and rhinoceros
bird, live in the boundary forests ; the night raven iji open dis-
tricts ; the vulture angolensis, in palm groves near rivers, while
the carrion buzzard is found everywhere. Red, yellow, and
grey weavers are plentiful ; the latter takes here the place of
our sparrow.

Venomous snakes are very frequent, especially the puff-
adder. Many accidents have been caused by them. In build-
ing Luluaburg station twenty- six venomous snakes were
encountered in a terrain 300 metres in diameter ; six people
were bitten, but their lives were saved.

CATTLE 317

Of the inferior animals, I only mention the termites, which
bore through every laterite ground. These insects render house-
building very difficult, unless one knows the kind of timber
which they leave untouched ; while they scarcely ever do any
harm to garden and field produce.

The cattle imported, besides the native domestic animals,
the European dogs, Turkish ducks, pigeons, and the superior
species of fowls, thrive well, and increase most wonderfully. By
temporarily scorching the grass, a good pasture-ground may
always be procured for cattle. The northern boundary of the
primeval forest will here also become a limit to the spreading of
cattle, as large buffalo blue-bottles (not the tsetse fly, which is
not found here) will soon kill the animals, as the most northern
Bashilauge have experienced, to their great loss.

The Bashilange, endeavouring as they do to adopt everything
connected with civilisation, to imitate, nay to ape, whatever they
can, will become civilised sooner than any other African tribe I
know. What a change has come about in these people during
the last ten years !

Contrary to all surrounding nations, they will travel with
white men as convo3'S or to carry easy loads. They have
adopted the cultivation of rice, and enlarged the stock of their
domestic animals ; they have abandoned many evil habits, as
the ordeal drink ; they have burnt their idols, and abrogated the
penalty of death ; they manufacture strong cloths with pretty
patterns from the Raphia vinifera ; they are not only able to im-
prove their guns, but to fabricate every part of them excepting
the barrel. They have even commenced to build two-storied
clay houses ; they try all they can to dress in the European
fashion, to construct tables and arm-chairs, to eat with knives
and forks oS" a plate ; they ride bulls, and make use of the
tipoia (a hammock for carrying), though of course only the
chiefs are allowed this luxury.

A great drawback is that the Bashilange man is not
accustomed to work, and that the woman was, and still is, only
a slave who has to do all the work in field and house ; while the
man will only manufacture cloth or go hunting, but principally

318 THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

smoke hemp and talk with incredible fluency. He is, therefore,
not at all inclined to regular work, and thus there is always
a difficulty in persuading the people in the village belonging to
the station to work half a yard of stuff daily.

When these people first made the acquaintance of black
traders, there was still a rich abundance of ivory, and all the
necessaries of life were easily procured ; afterwards women, and
even their own children, were sold ; this, however, is fortunately
now greatly on the wane, and is even prohibited by some chiefs.
Gum was soon produced, though in quite a primitive way, but
the yield was good ; prices have now been raised, on account of
the decrease of the caoutchouc liana.

Want increases, however, in the same degree as the easy
mode of satisfying it decreases. Short trading expeditious are
undertaken to the north, and in the east the slaves are bought
of the Baluba, who suffer from over-population, in order to sell
them to the Kioque and Bangala.

But as soon as European houses of business are settled here,
with which ' the Dutch house at Banana ' will make a start
before long ; when slaves are no longer sold, when gum is not
forthcoming, and when ivory shall have disappeared in the ad-
joining countries, then real work will be commenced, for, from
the progress noted above, one may with some certainty infer
a final approach to civilisation.

I hope that I may live to see this last step of a people in the
midst of whom and with whom I have worked for six years ;
this will surely be my greatest reward for a time full of care,
privations, frequent disappointments and difficulties, though
also of success.

INDEX

ABE
Abed, SheUc, 198, 221, 224, 225
Akaniarn Lake, 252
Akauanda, 104
Albert Lake, 236, 241
Anderson, 83
Angola, 66, 74, 91, 129, 136, 145,

229, 273, 276, 300, 302, 304
Aruvimi, 241

Ba-people, 76

Babecki, 55

Babenge, 55

Backashocko, 163

Badinga, 29, 30

Badingo, 163

Bain, Mr., 274, 275

Bajaia, 55

Bakete, 39, 60, 103, 104, 154

Balraba, 34, 41, 42, 46, 60, 71, 108,
129, 149, 153, 154

Bakimdu, 55

Bakutu, 27

Balonda, 169

Baluba, 2, 3, 6, 30, 36, 45, 48, 55, 82,
104-107, 109-115, 117, 121-127,
140-143, 146, 159, 165, 180, 190,
202, 216, 222, 229, 239, 244, 253,
254, 261, 307, 308, 310

Baliinbangando, 54

Balnngu, 85, 86, 91, 102, 103, 116,
121, 128, 190

Bambiie, 303

Banana, 3, 318

BAT

Banbangala, 55

Bandawe, 287

Bangala, 55, 135, 232, 313

Bangodi, 27, 28

Bangiieolo Lake, 106, 107, 271

Bankutu, 42, 54, 55

Bantu, 176, 307

Baqua-peoj)le : Baqua-Kash, vide
Kash, &c.

Barunibe, 55

Bashi-people : Bashi-Bonibo, vide
Bonibo, &c.

Basliilakassanga, 310-312, 314

Bashilambembele, 310-312, 314

Bashilamboa, 96, 97, 310-312,
314

Bashilange, 39, 55, 60, 61, 62, 64,
71, 78, 99, 100, 102-104, 106, 108,
109, 117, 121 123, 127, 130, 133,
135, 139, 140, 146, 149, 150, 154,

158, 165, 168, 170-172, 175, 187,
188, 191, 192, 202-204, 207, 211,
213, 214, 216-220, 223, 226-229,
271, 301, 302, 304, 306-318

Bashobe, 27

BasseUe-Kungu, 51

Bassongo, 44, 45, 48, 51, 149, 157,

159, 162, 163, 172, 178, 180, 188-
192, 197, 303, 304, 308

Bassongo-Mino, 3, 24, 27, 41, 42,

54, 55, 154, 172, 308
Bateke, 12
Bateman, 6, 39, 60, 61, 74, 101, 129

137

820

THBOUGH EQUATOBIAL AFRICA

BAT

Batempa, 162

Batetela, 51, 53, 157, 163, 169, 180,
222

Batondoi, 46

Batua, 55, 73, 157, 159, 163, 165-
167, 241

Bayanzi, 43

Bayenga, 55

Beiande, 185, 190, 200

Bena — sons : Bena - Lmitu, vide
Liintu, &c.

Benecki, 180, 181, 185, 190, 192,
193

Bengiiela, 145

Betundn, 163, 168, 169

Bihe People, 116, 145, 148, 190

Bilolo, 190

Bississi, 267

Blantyre, 226

Boehm, Dr., 240

Boma, 4

Bombo, 76

Bondo, 55

Bonshina, 55

Botecka, 55

Bubila (Lubila), 304

Bugslag, shipwright, 3, 7, 36, 39,
55, 61, 63-66, 84, 85, 87, 137,
139, 151, 165, 173-175, 192, 205,
207, 211, 214, 226, 229, 234, 237,
252, 254, 258, 262, 266, 278, 284^
286, 291, 292, 294, 205, 298, 300

Bushi-Maji, 112, 114, 115, 123, 127

Bnssindi, Bena, 241

Butoto, 42

Bwana Zefu, vide Zefu

Cameron, Lieutenant, 52, 85, 116,

221, 233
Cardoso, Lieutenant, 295
Carvalho, 71, 83
Cassabi, 5
Cassai, 4-6, 10-13, 17, 19, 20, 22,

EQU
24, 28, 30-32, 34, 36, 37-42, 56,
58, 59, 61, 64, 70, 74-76, 85, 97,
100, 107, 136, 137, 147, 155, 156,
308, 312, 314

Castilho, Agosto de, 300

Chambese, 271

Chameta, Baqua, 144

Chia, Baqua, 128

Chikapa, 80

ChOailla, Bena, 148

Chihmga Messo, 90

Chimbao, 99

Chingenge, 39, 86, 95, 113, 138, 142,
144, 302

Chipuhimba, 71, 72, 89, 97, 139,
312

Chirihi, 72

Chiriinba, 87

Chitari, 87

Chupanga, 298

Coango, 220

Congo, 4, 6, 11, 13, 43, 52, 54, 60,
64, 66, 78, 86, 100, 107, 116, 136,
148, 159, 192, 202, 208, 209, 222,
223, 227, 229, 236, 239-242, 252
273, 301, 306

Congo Railway, 21

Congo State, 2, 60, 83, 87, 100, 120,
129, 187, 192, 230, 251, 260, 261

Dahomey, 36, 57
Dean, Lieutenant, 232
Dibue, 200

Dikonga dia Difiuna, 309
Disho (Dishu), Baqua, 112, 124
Dongenfuro, 55
Dongonsoro, 55
Dronimeau, Missionary, 261

Emin Bey, 236, 250

' En Avant,' steamer, 7, 34, 38, 39,

41, 49, 54, 55, 56, 59, 150
Equator station, 6

INDEX

321

FAM
Famba (Jvima bin Salim, Juma

Merikani), 4G, 116, 183, 185, 190,

200, 221, 223, 227, 228, 230, 232,

233, 235
Felsen, Van der, 39, 59
Fickerini, 198, 223, 235, 268, 271,

292, 300
Francois, Von, 3, 104, 107, 128
Fmno NkoUe, 153

Galula, 261, 262

Gapetch, 42

Germane, 85, 86, 91, 99, 126, 129,

131, 135-137
Giesecke, 232, 269
Ginga, 90, 302
Goi Capopa, 301
Grenfell, missionary, 6, 13, 19, 23,

26, 61
Greshoff, 10, 13, 19, 61

Halfan, 224

Hamed bin Mohammet, vide Tibbn

Tibb
Haussa, 232
Horn, missionary, 239, 249, 250,

253, 254, 261, 264
Humba, 113, 115, 136, 137, 150,

196, 223

Ikalanga, 55

Ikongo, Bena, 153

' Ilala,' steamer, 280, 282, 287

Hindi, 238

Ilunga Mputt, 50, 154, 302

Jansen, 3

Jettchen, terrier, 292

Jileta, Bena, 153

Jilunga, 313

Jingenge, vide Chingenge

KAN

Jiniama, vide Kassongo Jiniama

Jionga, Bena, 99

Jirimba, 313

Jongolata, 44

Joshomo, 55

Josso, 302

Joubert, 259, 260

Jiikissi, 19

Juma Merikani, Juma bin Salim,

vide Famba
Junker, Dr., 79, 251

Kaba Eega, 251

Kabamba, Kawanba, vide Kitenge

Kabao, 145

Kabassu Babo, 314 ; the negroes'

aj^pellation for Von Wissmann
Kabogo, Cape, 252
Kaffirs, 107
Kafungoi, 181
Kahunda, 269, 270
Kajembe, 302
Kajinga, Baqua, 143
Kakesa, Mona, 162, 180, 185, 189,

200, 305
Kalamba, 36, 38, 39, 58, 62, 84,

86-89, 91, 129, 131-134, 137, 313,

315
Kalamba Moana, 69, 87, 91, 94, 99,

105, 122, 133, 137
Kalambai, 302
Kalambarre, 240
Kalebue, Bena, 183, 195, 198-200.

303
Kalonda (Arabs), 241
Kalosh, 107-109, 111-113, 116-118,

120, 122, 125-127
Kalui, 210, 211
Kalunda, 141, 313
Kambulu, Baqua, 87
Kamerondo, 116, 192, 235
Kangombe, 116
Kangonde Fall, 97
Kanjika, Mona, 116, 309

322

THROUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

KAN
Kanjoka, Baqua, 105
Kapiia, Bena, 212
Kapussu Chimbundu, 70
Karema, 261
Karonga, 280-282
Kasairi, Bena, 306
Kasairi, Pambu, 106, 109, 111,

124
Kash, Baqua, 72
Kashama, 109, 125, 126
Kashawalla, interpreter, 115, 158,

208, 219, 301, 303, 313
Kashia, Baqiia, 61, 107, 313
Kashimbi, 303
Kassanga, 55
Kassange, 85, 313
Kassassu, Baqna, 129
Kassia, 302
Kassonga Lushia, 222
Kassongo, Mona, 180
Kassongo, Tibbn Tibb's residence,

224, 228, 230, 232, 233, 237, 313
Kassongo Chiniania, 85, 86, 91, 103,

115, 126, 129, 190
Kassongo Liiaba, 105, 127
Katana, Baqua, 306, 311
Katanga, 106, 116, 269
Kataraija, 113
Katchich, 158, 160
Katende, 70, 97, 146, 155, 302,

309
Kattunga, 291

Kawala, 247, 248, 252-254, 258
Kawamba Kitenge, vide Kitenge
Kiagongo, 170
Kialo, Mona, 303-305
Kiepert, 304
Kifussa, 186
Kiila, 266
liikassa, 79
Kilembue, 217
Kilimane, vide Quilimane
Kilunga Messo, 105
Kilwa, 272, 285, 287
Kintu a Mushimba, 193

LOK

Kioque, 62, 85, 91, 94, 95, 133, 135,

137, 312-314
Kishi Maji, vide Bushi Maji
Kisuaheli, vide Suaheli
Kitenge (Kawamba), 217-219, 222,

227, 235, 301, 302
Kitimbue, 268
Kitimkuru, 272
Kiwu, Lake, 252
Koango, vide Coango
Kole, 55
Konde, 281
Kongolo Mosh, 89
Kotto, Bena, 45
Krupp, Friedrich, 59
Ku-Mapenge, 303
Kund, 4, 17, 24-26
Kussu, Bena, 87

Laethshu, 51

Lagongo, 200

Laniboa, Bashi, vide Bashilamboa

Landeau, missionary, 259

Larson, Mr., 247

Latte, De, 83

Leal, 297

Lebue, 28

Lefini, 11

Le Marinel, vide Marinel

Lenz, Dr., 198

Leopold, Lake, 17

Leopoldville, 6, 10, 100

Lindi, 272, 285, 287

Livingstone, 5 ; grave of his wife,

297
Livingstonia, 287
Loanda, 300
Loange, 31, 273
Lobbo, river, 170
Loka, 5
Lokassu, 99
Loko, 5
Lokodi, 55

INDEX

323

LOM

Lomami, 17, 51, 52, 54, 55, 79, IIG,
157, 162, 1(38, 169, 183, 187, 193,
206, 208 210, 230, 236, 301, 302

Lors, Dr., 287

Lowira (Lowiri), 278

Lua, 18

Lualaba, vide Congo

Luamo, 239

Lubefu, 178, 186, 204, 304

Lubi, 45, 48, 50, 103, 107, 148, 149,
154, 156, 301, 303, 305

Lubila, vide Bubila

Lubilanshi (Lubilashi), river, 103

Lubilash, vide SankiuTU

Lubilasha, 127

Lubiranzi, 115, 125

Li;bowa, Bena, 220

Liibudi, 129, 140, 305

LiibiUiu, 58, 64, 80, 87, 91, 94, 96,
129, 133-135, 144, 301, 302, 305

Luebo, 7, 10, 36, 40, 56, 59, 82,
135, 312

Luebo Station, 7, 37-39, 56, 58, 59,
63, 64, 73, 83, 86, 136, 137, 145

Lufubu, 301

Lufiiku, 259

Luftiwu, 264

Luidi, 169

Lnilu, 115, 121

Liikalla, 107, 125, 156, 157

Lukassi (Lukashi, Lnkassia), 194,
196, 201, 204, 206, 209, 221, 302

Lukenja, 17, 26, 43, 44, 50

Liikoba, Bena, 141

Lukuga, 255, 256

Lulua, 7, 35, 38, 55-61, 70, 71,
73-75, 82, 83, 89, 91, 97, 99, 101,
103, 134, 138, 145, 154, 219, 305

Lulua, Bena, 306

Luluaburg, 7, 35-37, 39, 56, 58,
61-63, 66, 70, 84-88, 94, 127, 129,
132, 134, 136-138, 145, 301, 305,
816

Lulumba Fall, 96, 97

Lunangua, 264

BUR
Lunda, 85, 86, 104, 106-108, 116
Luntu, Bena, 308, 310, 312, 414
Lupungu, Mona, 162, 180, 185, 186,

188, 189, 191, 192, 200, 201, 301-

303, 305
Lucjuengo, 71, 130
Lurimbi, 193
Lushiko, 31
Lussabi Baqua, 139
Lussanibo, Bena, 50, 148, 154-158
Lussana, 222
Lussuna, 200
Luvo, 77, 80
Luwulla, Bena, 148

Macar, De, Captain, 6, 83, 92, 95,
97, 112, 117, 126, 137, 145, 302

Madeira, 2, 3, 8, 37

Makenge, 302

Malagarassi, 253, 255

Malange, 85

Malela, 222

Manabesi, 2(55

Mambue, 270

Mandala, 290, 291, 293, 295

Manyema, 233, 308

Mapensa, 267

Marinel, Le, Lieutenant, 6, 53, 83,
94, 130, 135, 137, 151, 158, 159,
171, 173-176, 181, 188, 192, 202,
205, 207, 213, 214, 218, 225, 226,
228, 229, 236, 301, 305

Marungu, 265

Matadi, 4

Mbala, Bena, 71

Mbimbi Mukash, 78

Mbimbi Mulume, 78

Mbuju, Baqua, 311

Meta, Bena, 311

Mfini Lukenja, 17, 43

Mikindani, 272, 287

Milambo, 302, 303

Mirambo, 221, 225

324

THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

MIR

Mirambo, Arab from the Nyassa,

280
]\Iitamba, 244, 252
Moadi, 223, 301
Moauiba Mputt, 312
Moanga, Bena, 139
Moansangouuna, 71, 129, 138
Moero Lake, 235
Mohammed bin Halfan, 250
Mohammed bin Kassim, 238
Moiio, 101
Moina, 302
Mona, singular of Bena = Master ;

Mona Kakesa, vide Kakesa, &c.
Mona Bena, 170, 172-178, 180
Mozambique, 300
Mpala, 259
Msiri, 269
Mtoa, 246
Mu, singular of Ba
Muata Jamwo, H5, 106, 107, 116
Mubangi, 20
Mudinga, vide Badinga
Muieau, 58, 70, 85, 136
Muini Muharra, 184
Mukamba Lake, 141
Mukanjanga, 94, 312
Mukasii, 78
Mukeba, 149

Mukendi, Baqua, 115, 117, 120
Mukenge, vide Kalainba
Mukenge, 128
Miikete, singular of Bakete
Mukubu Forest, 152
Mulenda, Baipia, 128
Miiller, ' Forstreferendar,' 3
Mulume, 78
Mulume. Baqua, 311
Munieama, 270
Miiqua, singular of Baqua
Mushie, 17
Mussongai, 193
Mutomba, 154, 157, 158
Mutope, 289
Mweua Wanda, 274

QUA

Nasorro bin Zef, 250

Ndongo, 55

Ngana Mukanjanga, Mona, 94, 312,

Ngongo, Bena, 49, 149-155, 160

Nguo, Bena, 217

Nimptsch, Von, 10, 13, 61

Niumkorlo, 265

Nkolc, 55

Nsadi, 5

Nsaire, Nsairi, 5

Nsali Monene, 5

Nshale, Nshale-Mele, 5

Nunsua, 265

Nyangwe, 46, 79, 184, 192, 198, 200,

202, 218, 221-224, 228, 233, 237,

293, 301, 315
Nyassa, 250, 251, 264, 265, 272, 273,

279-285, 287, 288

Oswald, 300
Oto, 54

Pallaballa, 4

Pamolondo, 288

Panga, Bashi, 306

' Paul Pogge,' iron boat, 70, 74, 80

' Peace,' steamer, 6, 10-12, 19, 33,

56, 59, 61
Peshi, Baqua, 193, 303
Peters, Dr., 300
Piari, Kai, 169
Pogge, Dr., 45, 46, 49, 50, 54, 64,

70, 94, 97, 101, 107, 116, 135,

138, 148, 149, 153, 160, 169 181,

198, 229, 301, 302, 313
Pogge, Mount, 21, 24, 26
Pogge Fall, 78-80
Putt, Baqua, 146, 149

Qua, 5, 12
Quamouth, 6, 11, 12
Quango, 19, 20, 25, 32

INDEX

825

QUA

Quaqua, 298
Quilimane, 2'Jl. 298, 299
Quilu, 26
Quitiinclii, 163

Eashid, 240

Eeichardt, 240, 268

Eiamba, Bena, 101, 139, 306, 312

Eiqua, Lake, 270, 271

Eostock, 299

Eugu Eugu, 268

Euhega, 257

Euqua Lake, 270

Sahorro, 223, 226

Said, 194, 196-203, 210, 221, 222,
302

Said Bargash, 224, 250, 268

Said bin Habibu, 239

Saise, 270

Sala, Bena, 206

Sala-Mbi (Quango), 19

Sali Lebiie, 28

Sali Teniboa, 31

Samba, Bena, 223

Sangula Meta, 39, 64, 69, 87, 137,
144

Sankurru, Von Wissmann's man-
servant, 113, 225

Sankurru-Lubilash, 4, 5, 17, 34,
36, 37, 39-41, 45, 46, 52, 55, 78,
86, 103, 112, 115, 127, 141, 148,
153-156, 158 160, 162, 163, 168,
183, 185, 186, 190, 193, 211, 230,
303, 304

Satnrnino, 58, 65, 71, 83, 127

Schneider, gunsmith, 3, 34, 39, 52,
54, 59, 61

Schweinfurth, 79

Schwerin, Von, Professor, 83

Sekelai, Baqua, 143

Shankolle, 5

Shari, 5

UEM
Shire, 251, 288, 291, 295-298
Sicke, 251

Simao, 113, 136, 137, 150, 151, 169
Sonimers, Dr., 136, 302
Soudan, 185

Stanley, 17, 146, 241, 252, 256
' Stanley,' steamer, 35, 38, 58, 82-85
Stanley Falls, 78, 202, 220, 221, 223,

231, 235, 236, 244, 250
Stanley Pool, 4, 6, 7, 21, 35, 37, 38,

52, 61, 78, 100
Stehlmann, 83
Stej)henson's Eoad, 279
Storms, Captain, 260
Suaheli, 46, 200, 225

Tabora, 184, 218, 232, 238, 246, 250,
251

Tambai, 193

Tanga, 272

Tanganyika, 61, 107, 230, 232, 235,
236, 239-242, 247, 250-253, 255-
258, 261, 266-268, 271, 272, 279-
283, 285, 308

Tappenbeck, 4, 6, 17, 24, 25

Taylor, Bishop, 136

Temba, 43

Tembo, Baqua, 112

Temboa, 31

Tenda, 105, 106, 111, 122, 126, 127

Tibbu Tibb (Hamed bin Mo-
hammed), 46, 162, 180, 183, 184,
187, 190, 194-198, 200, 205, 209,
210, 217-220, 224 228, 230-233,
235, 251, 252, 269, 270

Togo Country, 36

Tshingenge, vide Cliingenge

Tubindi (Tubintsh), 104

Tupende, 80, 135, 313

Tushilange, 306

Ubujive, 240, 241, 247, 308
Uemba, 272

326

THBOUGH EQUATORIAL AFRICA

UGA
Uganda, 2^8
Ugogo, 121
Ujiji, 184, 236, 239, 246, 247, 249,

250, 252, 256
Uniamwesi, 221, 308
Unianjembe, 269
Unioro, 251

VivY, 4

Wabuma, 14, 16
Wagenie, 223
Wajiji, 256 258, 268
Wakonde, 275, 278, 279, 281
Wakussu, 222
Walker, 83
Wanfumu, 12, 14
Wanyamwesi, 46, 268
Wapambue, Bena, 159
Wasi Malnngu, Bena, 241
Wasongora, 159, 222
Wasongora Mino, 251
Wassonga, 159
Wawemba, 271-275, 285

ZUL

Wawiwa, 275

Wayanzi, 12

Winton, Sir Francis de, 3

Wissmann Fall, 80, 82

Wissmann Pool, 20, 22

Witanda, Bena, 102

Wolf, Dr., Staff Physician, 3, 6, 22,
34-59, 61, 62, 65, 70, 71, 73, 74,
79, 80, 82-84, 100, 101, 129, 130,
146, 148, 150, 153, 154, 157, 304

Yehka, Bena, 53, 54

Zambesi, 251, 273, 282, 290, 296,

298
Zanzibar, Zanzibaris, 74, 76, 81,

136, 186, 187, 197, 198, 218, 226,

232, 235, 300
Zappu Mutapo, 303
Zappu Zapp, 46-48, 102, 167, 185,

186, 303, 304
Zappix Zapp (Bena Mona), 172
Zefu, 221, 224-227, 230, 235-239
Zulu, 281

rillNTKD BY
8P0 1 IISWOODK AND CO.; NKW-STUBUT SQUARE

BOSTON UNIVERSITY ^^^5

iiiiiiiiii

1 171^ Q013M 51H5

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Full text of "My second journey through equatorial Africa from the Congo to the Zambesi in the years 1886 and 1887"

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